Bike won’t start gt250r
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Hello I got this gt250r that won’t start, cleaned gas tank, spark plugs, fuel injectors, new air filter, new oil and oil filter, new gas, bike still won’t start. Tried bump starting tried jumping it, it sounds like it wants to look start, I also found these wires I have no clues where or what they go to. The wires are green, orange, and black with a white stripe, I thought it was the turn signal relay but considering the bike still won’t start. The wires come down to the front tire and I don’t know where from there. If anyone has any ideas Id appreciate it.
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Hey,
Welcome! – Sorry i delayed , not sure what time it is over there as i know West vs East have slight time zone changes , it is “7pm UK” time as i write this message 😬.
Right, see those 3 wires hanging on the caliper ?
- They go from the “dash board ” –> directly –> to WHEEL SENSOR
- This wheel sensor is a black block that always sits on the left side of the bike
So check your left fork and confirm it is there and safely join the wires matching their colours , then tape them very well to avoid a fire hazard. The caliper does actually get hot with the brake disc too.
In regards to starting , do you get any sparks from both coils ? And the plugs are CR8E? (only this plug should be used especially on EFi bikes)
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Ok so I checked and made sure I have sparks, I rigged up a white board marker cap so it fit over the fuel injector inlet and made a small hole through the other side of the cap so carb cleaner straw could fit and both fuel injectors are spraying just fine. I bridged the clutch switch wires, checked the kick stand sensor, checked voltage on the fuel injector connectors, removed the air filter although it’s brand new, I got new spark plugs, they told me it needed e3 spark plugs but I kept the old ones just incase. I found where those wires go but they broke right at the base where they go into the housing so I’m going to have to replace it, but would that prevent the bike from starting? When the bike cranks it almost starts, I removed the spark plugs again and poured a little bit of seafoam into the combustion chamber and with the spark plug removed (did it for each chamber independently) hit the ignition in case there was bad gas just sitting there. The bike started for a second and then died, I also have the f1 light flashing on the dash going from 0 to f1. It also feels like there is good compression when it tries to start. I do hear like a growl coming from what sounds like the gas tank. Thanks in advance, I ordered a fuel pump although the one that is in there is kind of loud it is definitely pumping fuel.
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” I found where those wires go but they broke right at the base where they go into the housing so I’m going to have to replace it, but would that prevent the bike from starting? ”
Not sure which wires you were referring to ?Check the dash say F1 or Fi ? And while you were at it , since it started for a split second.
Try this:
- Compression Test on full throttle , then we see how much psi each engine head has on cold.
(Though readings a better when its warmed as per service manual) - Speaking of service manual, head to the manuals section of this forum and get the 250cc EFi manual , trick your ECU to give up any error codes.
Or
Turn it off , disconnect battery for 12-24hrs , then follow the instructions on the manual to see if you get an error code which tells you what sensor or part on the bike is preventing it from starting
- Compression Test on full throttle , then we see how much psi each engine head has on cold.
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” I found where those wires go but they broke right at the base where they go into the housing so I’m going to have to replace it, but would that prevent the bike from starting? ” Not sure which wires you were referring to ? Check the dash say F1 or Fi ? And while you were at it , since it started for a split second. Try this:
- Compression Test on full throttle , then we see how much psi each engine head has on cold. (Though readings a better when its warmed as per service manual)
- Speaking of service manual, head to the manuals section of this forum and get the 250cc EFi manual , trick your ECU to give up any error codes. Or Turn it off , disconnect battery for 12-24hrs , then follow the instructions on the manual to see if you get an error code which tells you what sensor or part on the bike is preventing it from starting
would the wheel sensor on the front wheel prevent it from starting if it’s disconnected? Also when I try to start it the rpm goes to 13000. The bike wants to start up but something is shutting the engine off.
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Have you managed to get the service manual from my previous comments and trick the ECU to spew out an error code ?
So that we have a better idea what sensor is acting up , that prevents you from starting it (I mean if it screams to life, then dies , then the ECU has probably cut the sparks off if one of the sensors on the bike is acting up) or see below about compression
Bike will ride without a speed sensor that is on the left bottom fork leg (your cut 3x wires you see down there) , the dash will just say 0 mph / 0 kmh
Also find out if you can do a cold compression test and let us know the figures?
- All spark plugs out
- use the metal pipe with a curve rubber tip of the compression tool
- Hold it down hard, crank the bike for 5 seconds max
- Read the compression for front engine
- Repeat above ^ for rear engine
- Do this with full throttle open too.
Process of elimination now! (Well, until we get to the part that was stopping the bike starting or engine has something out of spec such as compression)
Regards
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Have you managed to get the service manual from my previous comments and trick the ECU to spew out an error code ? So that we have a better idea what sensor is acting up , that prevents you from starting it (I mean if it screams to life, then dies , then the ECU has probably cut the sparks off if one of the sensors on the bike is acting up) or see below about compression Bike will ride without a speed sensor that is on the left bottom fork leg (your cut 3x wires you see down there) , the dash will just say 0 mph / 0 kmh Also find out if you can do a cold compression test and let us know the figures?
- All spark plugs out
- use the metal pipe with a curve rubber tip of the compression tool
- Hold it down hard, crank the bike for 5 seconds max
- Read the compression for front engine
- Repeat above ^ for rear engine
- Do this with full throttle open too.
Process of elimination now! (Well, until we get to the part that was stopping the bike starting or engine has something out of spec such as compression) Regards
yeah I got the Manual, off hand do you know which wires I can use the paper clip method to trick the ecu? I’m still looking into the compression test as I don’t think I have the tools to do this right now but I will order them.
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You should look for the 2-pin plug that’s under the rear seat , on the left side (as if you were behind the bike facing yourself towards the front of the the bike)
So I bridged the two pin connector and nothing really seems different. I’m going to swap the spark plugs out and look for the tool to do the compression tests but I’m not sure what to look for in dealer mode. I’ll check the manual but just wanted to see if there was any thing special to look out for
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You should look for the 2-pin plug that’s under the rear seat , on the left side (as if you were behind the bike facing yourself towards the front of the the bike)
the fI light stays on when the ignition is on and it also flashes f1 on the screen
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So if you followed the manual exactly (this is after unplugging the ECU for a day & removing the battery for a day) , then you reconnect it all back , do the the paper clip trick, the ECU doesn’t even throw a code ?
And yes a compression test is a very idea at this stage so we can rule out that both cylinders compress enough to start the bike.
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