♠️ M77
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For videos, you can always upload them to youtube as “UNLISTED” , it means it won’t be found on youtube searches , but copy their share links and paste them on to the forum here no problem.
If you have gaskets for the cylinders , it would be a wise call to remove the cylinder heads so that you can see that all 8 valves are sitting flush or if there is too much carbobn deposits on the valve walls, stopping the valves from fully sitting down, after the cam lobe stops pressing them down to the pistons.
The clearance between a piston going up and a valve going down is small indeed , from the video it is hard to tell if the valve is actually hitting the piston or it could just be factory dentures so that valves don’t fully hit the piston.
Compression should be about 150 psi hot, did you test this when it was hot too ?
Ticking noises = funny you said tensioners changed , what about chain? or valve tappet shims? unless you have 1 shim basket that’s rattling under the cam lobes? (I hope not)
I have a feeling you will want to rebuild the 2nd backup motor fully , before taking apart the live one that’s still working inside your bike. Could i be wrong?
I don’t think Korea had options nowdays anymore to change pulley sizes for the GV
So to reduce the RPMs on rides , you will have to switch to chain kit. And use 1 tooth larger front sprocket , as rear sprocket for 650 is only 1 size (at least here in the UK supply chain)
But PBI America can probably make custom sprockets for you in sizes you desire.
I swear i saw this on Marketplace a while back and almost bought it lol
She’s a beauty!
What do you want to do with her now ? = Im sure at this point it’s just riding everyday with it so you can catch up!
Hi guys, new to the forum and seeking help. Ive picked up a 2010 gt650r efi for cheap recently as a project bike. Bike was completely dead when I got it and had a broken headlight. Ive replaced the battery and headlight which obviously needed to be done. So, with the ignition and kill switch turned on the headlight comes on but not the dash. Low and high beam works, brake light works and so do the turn signals. No sound of fuel pump priming or anything. When i Pull the clutch in and hit the starter, the motor cranks but won’t start. I found a blown fuse in one of the 2 little fuse boxes at the back left of the bike but didn’t seem to solve anything. What’s wierd is that the neutral light, turn signal lights and high beam lights work on the dash but nothing on the lcd screen or tach and no background illumination. In the attached picture it shows the 2 blue relays, 2 black fuse boxes, 1 brown thing with a removable black cap ( i think its a resistor or something?) And 2 white plugs with nothing connected to them. Is there something missing? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
hi pal, them plugs look like they need to be connected to a cdi unit, ive just had to do the same on my 2008 gt650r, ive got a brand new cdi unit which i bought wrong that looks like it fits your 2 plug cables
im not 100% but it might be worth looking into if it can help
Those plugs hanging from his bike would be for relays unfortunately, your ECU says “GV650” , he has a GT650R
That sucks , i knew something fishy was going to happen with them lot and they have the nerve to send the wrong part! 🙄 Sorry about that fella.
What was their excuse ?Also list it on eBay , it might get sold sooner who knows.
It is possible to buy another “strainer” only if you measure dimensions of the old one and use a reputable brand from Amazon as i would not trust china parts on a Hyosung motor that is already annoyed. As you said, the pump is expensive indeed, you will want to remove the strainer very carefully and replace any “retainer” pins holding it in. As long as the strainger port is the same that can slot in to the pump and isn’t too big (will hit metal wall of tank if it is too big or sticking out too much)
Inline fuel filters can burst eventually, so most of them are china made (very very mass produced in china) for many carb bikes that have very low fuel pressure as the carbs have a tap that is like opening the sink a tiny bit. The electric pumps can push 5 bars of pressure sometimes in a motorcycles , that is some difference! (Hence pressure regulators/manager on your fuel pump, as it is instant on/off on ecu demand)
I will further research if it possible to steal OEM filters from cars using electric pumps (ie. small cars) and get OEM versions. Ie, retrofit OEM Toyota filter gauze (since it’s japanese made i am sure) , and clamp it to hyosung pump , i expect the filter to do its job well since car will have big injectors.
We have to be careful also, as if the gauze is too “open” , it will allow small particles to escape and our small bike injectors will not like it, so we need the gauze to be “extra fine” (or have small pores enough to let liquid through but keep any micro particles trapped inside)
It looks like yours is due for service, so it is a good job you took it out!
It’s a shot, try this now: Slipping can sometimes be the incorrect oil used (weird enough)
- Motul 7100 10w50 grade (recommended oil for vtwins)
or
Silkolene Pro 4 , 10w50 - Fresh oil filter
- When you drain the oil, see if the magnet plug under there has had any oil deposits ?
- Also if the mechanic in the past ever removed the wrong plug under the bike ? (there is 1 for oil drain, and the other is gearbox related that shouldn’t be touch, there is another near there for oil pressure checking for mechanics to see if the oil pump works OK)
- If it slips, check how much “free play” the hand lever has before squeezing the clutch, the gap should be about credit card side thin gap of free play
- Also the “arm” that is on the clutch casing should be retracted all the way back, then refit the cable in to it, so even though the arm is neutral , it could still be pushing against the plates making you feel like you’re riding half-clutch , and thus the new plates wear down even faster , so it might be a good shout to double check the plates inside have not prematurely cracked or anything.
keep us updated
Hey, read here from the official NGK website (they changed name to Niterra now)
https://www.ngkntk.com/products/spark-plugs/
Click where it says “Platinum”
If you don’t see it , it says this“Platinum Spark Plugs
These spark plugs are equipped with a platinum plate on the middle electrode. This ensures a more constant output of the spark plug over the entire service life, even under difficult conditions. Based on its narrow middle electrode, it emits very little spark voltage. Moreover it discharges the ignition coil, and ensures optimal combustion.”They sell “LASER” as Platinum or Iridium Platinum = As long as the box is “rainbow color” in their text, that is the best plug for street use. It is more long laster than cheaper “IX Iridium” which has a blue box.
And yes to the 2 links you posted from the shop
Puig makes very good screens, and they have official dealers in most countries to order from anytime 😉
So for Spain, you can ask their authorized importers local to you as it’s a big name in Spain
https://puig.tv/en/distribuidores-puig#distribuitorsanchorJust like the carbs , you can look at the throttle body ports , and use a “sync tool” that measures the vacuum that is being pulled by each cylinder, you want them to be almost identical to each other
As you don’t want 1 cylinder to pull more air than the other one when you open throttle , it can disregulate all the other sensors that detect air in the bike from air box down to the lambda sensor , usually there is 1 port per cylinder with a pipe going to the ISCV
So you can connect the Idle Solenoid Valve (ISCV) as normal but in the middle of each pipe , get a “t-junction” piece that will allow you to connect a third hose each cylinder , then those extended extra hoses go to your carb sync tool to see how well your throttle is in sync or not.
Also, it sounds very stupid but sometimes I used to have this issue dealing with customer bikes , after many struggles , i replaced the stator and it was working okay but the stator did not give me symptons …but sometimes it will act very strange causing the tachometer to jump around 1000 to 2000 rpm , so the ECU is not sure what to do as the flywheel timings are erratic.
Hope this gives you ideas ?
Marcel. Would I lose the warranty by changing the cables for the ngk ht ones?
Not really if if you allow a garage to install it for you, then warranty should be OK but………. because if you lose warranty then bike will still be grateful you got rid of the black caps, they cause too many issues right now. That’s why you never see us selling brand new OEM black caps. 99% of Hyosung owners worldwide change it even 650 owners. Hyosung doesn’t make the black caps, it is an outsourced part. (too cheap made) , NGK rarely fails.
IX Plugs = Hyosung’s just don’t like them. Some other brand bikes are OK with it. So hence we generally recommend stock CR8E or LASER Platinum. Laser Platium is NGK’s best street level plug. And race bikes use it too.
The big white plug that has “4 pins” – Is the Relay Box, it could be the final puzzle to switching on the bike as it looks like it turns on the pump and the EFI injection system but that’s my suspicion since i couldn’t see the wire colours properly but that 4 pin plug should have a relay on it. The relay will be identical to the other 2 blue ones on your frame.
2 pin white plug can be ignored for now, possibly for dealer switch (can’t see wire colours to confirm but it usually is a dealer plug) as i’ve seen myself other hyosungs have a bigger plug in my workshop lol.
3 pin plug that is orange/red? =with a black cap on it, yes that’s part of the harness (Hyosung just calls it Mystery Diode/Non-user serviceable, it usually hides itself inside the harness, like the other ones near your ignition coils.
It could be the fuel pump ? How old is it ? or total miles thise bike has done ?
You can open the fuel pump and gentley clean it with carb cleaner and also check your air filter (if its dirty) , the intake may be “choking”
Also open your fuel tank key cap
Look at the side , there is a HOLE , it is a “vent” hole , and it is also breather , thats why the fuel tank has an extra pipe that is facing the road.
Or the fuel cap is faulty causing the air inside the tank not to vent off properly (thats why the fuel cap has springs and rubber gasket on it.
Nice welds , all it needs now is a GS500 Belly Pan at the bottom of the engine and it will look boss 😉
Any hyosung website that is “white background, with blue design = scammers” do not buy from them. They have very bad reviews on TrustPilot.
Hyosung changed a little bit after 2022 on their bobbers and they also introduced GV125-S EVO, so it is better to find a local dealer who can find the correct oil filter for you otherwise feel free to email me and i will find out for you. We sell them again, i can order genuine oil filters that would be correct for your model.
Air filter, is specific – GV125 has different models (GV125C, GV125S , GV125AK, GV125SS, GV DR, etc) it means they changed the airbox a few times. Some models will not fit the same filter. It is easier to get it from dealer who will use VIN code to get correct filter or email us. Even the new facelift model GV125R , GV125 EVO has different designs again but sellers who are not Hyosung experts will sell wrong parts.
I believe “screen” , is not official accessory yet (maybe still manufacturing), so people have been using chinese sellers on Amazon to find “unversal screen kit”
Measure your headlight (is it 6inches or 7inches round ?) , then go to PUIG Italy website (good company that makes screens) , and see the different styles of screens they make ?
Center Stand – I believe you can email K&V Moto / Racing-Planet DE (Denmark) as they will be the closest importer for you, ask your local dealer to see if they can import a center stand for you if Korea is shipping them or SIMMA FRANCE (another importer of Hyosungs for EU market)
Hope this helps , let us know if we missed anything
We have a lot of owners from spain and portugal on this website, most of them are customers who wanted parts from this shop. So which part of spain do you live ?
It is possible , you can see if there is local motorcycle club / ride meeting where you might spot a GV125 owner , and i have a feeling they will know this website lol
Welcome!!!!
I hope you keep that bike , it is a nice ride & unique 👍 – There is too many Yamahas , it’s getting boring 😉 , better to be in a niche club , you get more attention that way when you go out riding with people haha.
When i tell people my bike is South Korean, they struggle to believe it! 🤣 😂
Hmmm, i got Just a few questions to build some understanding & hopefully we can see why it’s doing what you describe;
- What oil did you use ? and what grade ? 20w60 ? 5w30?
- Did you change the oil filter ?
- Did you adjust the cable ? (Remove the cable from the clutch cover , then make sure the arm doesn’t have too much play going on ?)
- Does the clutch make any noises when you squeeze and let go of the lever when running idling ?
- In regards to sixth gear, can you shift each gear like you normally would until you hit 6th or does it jump back to 5th gear etc (gearbox issue than clutch)
- Look at your front sprocket (check for rattle or loose nut)
- Chain tension does affect how smooth your gears shift believe me.
- Also grease up the linkages for the foot pedal shifter assembly that’s going to the engine arm/hook.
- Confirm it is a GV125 Carb model (GV125C) or GV125S EFi injected (because you put S in your topic but profile says C)
It has been approved , very sorry about that , it was the site’s security needing my attention to approve an unknown link you posted.
You can always copy and paste any pictures in to the forum, even make a tutorial if you like, i am sure it will help everyone that’s reading this topic
Regards ❤
Leave a review ⭐if you enjoyed the 520 set on the chain kit page , we appreciate it and glad its doing what it says 😉
Show us a picture of the dash soon when you get the chance so we see what’s going on.
If it went from 28K, to 30K but you only did 10 miles ? – – It might be an issue with the speed sensor , so take it off the front wheel, then get “PUTOLINE RACE GREASE” , dress the whole sensor with grease (go crazy) , now it should be greased and shielded from any road debris for a while , hell even wet nature too.
Open the “headlight cover” or the “fuel tank is to be lifted” , locate the 3pin plug for the speed sensor
- Clean it with Contact Cleaner
- Add a “tear drop” of ACF50 (only!!!) inside the plugs , even your dash plugs under the tank , so it gets shielded from corrosion and the like.
- No WD40! 🔥💀⚰⚱
Can you press “Select / Mode” buttons on the dash to see if its saying “TRIP Counter” or “ODO”
Do you also mean the ODO was 30 miles (lifetime of bike) and it jumped to 2K miles ?
Can you see anything that might have happened to it ?
Or
Is it a pre-2010 model that uses a “CABLE Twister” driven gauges (you will see a very very thick cable going from the MPH side of the dash , straight down to the wheel) instead of a digital electric cable on most models after 2010
If in doubt , also post a picture of dash with your next reply
- Motul 7100 10w50 grade (recommended oil for vtwins)
