♠️ M77
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also I am looking for an old rear seat to convert it in a removable rear hump
Email these guys , they make them 🙂
https://skidmarx.co.uk/all-products/hyosung-gtgtr-125250650-seat-cowlHow did the tests go with the rest of my replies above ^ ?
The battery looks like it uses generic cells from China, we tend to recommend Yuasa batteries (YTX 14BS as that’s the OEM size) and watch out for fake Yuasa’s . Genuine ones will be easier to cop at your local halfords , or local EuroCarParts store in your town
Hey the 125cc/200cc will not fit the 250cc because the clutch basket is bigger and hyosung uses much stronger springs too
Have you looked on ebay for our cheap clutch plates used condition but still good and ebay Global Shipping should be qctive for your country. Our ebay name is @evocrest and also try ebay seller called SunCoastCycleSports USA. We trust them as they have an official website , they helped us with GV650 parts for our customer in UK as our official dealer in UK was busy at the time
Welcome and I look forward to seeing the progress!
The almost non-existant chicken strips has convinced me to try find a set for a smaller test bunny the hyosung RT125D as ill turn it into some scrambler moto. Good to see!
Ey,
Si tienes prisa, prueba a comprar PAPEL PARA JUNTAS FLEXOID y utiliza su portada para copiarlo y dibujarlo. A veces hacemos esto en nuestro taller de bicicletas para clientes.No compre en sitios web como HyoSpares, AU, EU, Catalog porque son estafadores.
Espero que todo esté bien porque el lado del embrague de la bicicleta tiene varias juntas.
Si me equivoco, tome una fotografía de su cubierta y muéstrenos la junta que necesita.
Perdón por mi mal lenguaje, tuve que usar el traductor de Google. Solo entiendo ingles jaja.
Damnn, i hope the dent is not major!
We have 2 tutorials that have pictures , here they are below:
- https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/fuel-lines-hyosung-gt125r-gt250r-carb-hose-diagram/
- https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/how-to-change-vacuum-lines-on-hyosung-gt125r-gt250r-gt-comet-air-hose-diagram/
The brake light is still working. Do you reckon I should check the wires and fuses first?
If you see red lights = the unit is working , it could be your RELAY because newer generation Hyosungs uses RELAYS to control the front and rear lights
(Click this link to see it)You will find this relay located on the LEFT REAR COVER of the pillion seat.
Maybe clean the contacts and check wires ? If nothing, it could be the relay or there is a “break” in the wire along somewhere at the back that is stopping the voltage signal going to the Red LED’s at the back.
The “Brakes” will trigger the LED, independently. The brakes use their own switch attached to the master cylinders.
I think the more you ride in the cold , the more you can see how well the tyres can handle themselves with less warm up time and roads might still have the invisible black ice ?
How did they behave ? unless you not a “spirited” rider pushing tyres to their safe limits lol. I am very curious as im still a pro-michelin guy but i might be convinced to get the mutants based on how they handle on a Hyosung (Some biker reviews always comment on their performance of tyres over a 1000cc bike, which is fine and well, but we see reviews on a sub-650cc class bike as not everyone wants to ride a 650/1000 all the time. Hell i even have a Hyosung RT125D for off roading! (125cc!)
great pictures as always , happy spring season! = Let’s hope the cold snaps stop this week, and its hot weather all the way until November lol
Hello, Thanks for the answer. I will remove TPS and send you pictures when i have some time. Coils must be okay because when I disconnect TPS bike starts to run okay. I think it must be TPS, lambda or idle solenoid. But I think it could be TPS overheating because it is too close to the front cylinder.
Okay no problem , will await TPS pictures, send us an email if you need it replaced.
Try this mod ?
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Also,
- What size Pilot Jets are on the bike?
- What size Main Jets is it using?
- Is the airbox intact ? (put the airbox on the carb first…… then drop the airbox and carb together in to the intake pipes very carefully as those rubber necks are very difficult to get nowdays.
- Standard air filter used ?
Consider O-Rings below?
Intake Pipe O-RING (Inlet Boot Seals) x2 – GV125 GT125 RX125 GV250 GT250 Hyosung
If you can’t wait for them, try to ask a local hyosung dealer ? = Don’t buy any parts from Hyosung pages that are “Blue/White” as they have a lot of bad reputation, we don’t promote them here either. Too many people got scammed online.
Hey guys, just wanted to know if anyone knows the part number for the front sprocket seal replacement for the Hyosung GD250R. Haven’t been able to find it on Ebay or other sites like whygostock. I’m sure that the replacement is on the Hyosung manufacturer’s website but I have no clue what is the part number. Or does anyone know the exact size so I can get a knock off one from ebay. Please let me know. Thanks!
For the GD250 EXIV models = Suzuki OIL SEAL, LH (27X40X6) The size is in the brackets 🙂
Make sure you check the O-Ring that’s inside the COLLAR SPACER SHAFT too, and use any local hardware store to get a 1-to-1 copy in VITON grade as it gets very hot down there too.
Just tagging him, hope he sees this. If not, make a new topic for yourself and explain it all to us.
I can see the wire to the tail bulb but cant get it out, seems like it’s jammed inside. Do I just pull harder? Cheers
Is it a “single bulb” or do you have LED OEM Rear light ?
(Korea changed lights in 2009-2012 onwards for GT bikes to have factory red LED’s at the back.If it is a bulb type (older shape model Hyosung) = You can try what Simon said! (use a little bit of contact cleaner around the bulb and socket to free it off a little bit and be gentle.
Hey welcome!
Have you tried these ?
- Go to airbox or the frame look for a device that has wires going to it in one side , then other side has 2 pipes sending air around the motor and throttle bodies
That’s your IDLE SPEED CONTROL VALVE
If its haywire , it could be the reason. - Ignition coils = Did you swap around ?
- HT leads = Did you swap them around ?
I have a suspicion it’s something to do with wires near the rear cylinder (connector plug corrosion on rear cylinder ? or the coil ? or HT Cap itself (use NGK) ,
Sounds silly, but please slowly remove the ECU from the harness and carefully use “AIR DUSTER” only and blow out any debris that might enter in to it.
Also use a “SMALL AMOUNT” of – CONTACT CLEANER – on the ECU pins and it’s giant plug – It is a very very difficult part to buy as Korea stopped making them.
Wait overnight to fully dry out, as you don’t want to start the bike and fry the ecu if its pins are still wet.
This might improve signals going to the sensors in the bike to make it run properly.
what waiting for the ECU to dry out, clean the rest of your harness connectors involved and possibly the sensors if there is a suspicious of debris invasion in them or rust / oxidization of pins.
Choke is filly closed, Ive disassembled it and am going to do a full rebuild, do you know the model of the Mikuni carb on the GV125? Ive looked all over for a model number or something. Thanks 🙂
BDS26 Twin Custom (As half the parts inside were fine tuned for Hyosung , even the choke rail + carb slides + floats + 1.2 size float seats etc , brackets to hold both carb cylinders, custom floats as Mikuni made for Hyosung bikes under OEM supply chain ) =
Right, bare with me , as this is unique so let’s butt heads on this one shall we?
If your bike was a carb model (or EFi even) , commonly the sounds of the bike chugging, coughing, then dying right away points to usually:
- HT Caps (Heat is their enemy) and it is an outsourced cheap part, so we use NGK instead.
- Coils (it is not uncommon, but it does happen actually as the bike heats up)
EFi model only (your bike) ….extra parts for consideration/investigation
- TPS Sensor (Throttle position) , sounding like the bike was struggling to find an idle spot.
If you’re adamant to try replace the TPS, send us a picture of it (email us). We will order one for you (Not all Hyos use the same TPS sensor, Hyosung changes them) - Fuel Pump Wanning = But , i don’t think it’s the actual pump as the ECU would not start or let alone injectors dry run themselves.
It could be the “RELAYS” on the bike (Send us a picture and we may replace them for you) , other relays may be involved in the other places like injectors/lambda sensor - Lambda Sensor ? (on the exhaust pipe) – I doubt it, but if you’re not sure, you can carefully unscrew it and clean it , put it back in and see what happens.
If not, send us an email with a picture of the sensor (it has numbers written on it, code names and the plug) (Hyosung changes plugs)
Hell even the GV125 EFi has had more than 1 ECU change and more than 1 harness changes (so terminal plugs and sensors may change) - ET Sensor (Engine Temperature Sensor) – This was common on the bigger EFi GV bikes but i believed they fixed it on later updates….however…look for a sensor that is on the engine cylinder itself to read temperature , if it is not present on yours , it may just be reading temperature near radiator (water temp instead)
The old GV250 models have temp sensors on the front cylinder head (which was reading basically how hot the oil was getting as it was oil cooled with oil flowing around the cylinders anyway) – Just a thought! - Take a picture of your plugs and show us ? (Just to observe how dark the threads are and if the center of the plug is at the right colour or not)
Plugs can leave a small “trail” of hints as to what’s going on inside the cylinder. , we might even know which cylinder is cutting/dropping the most.
Update us fella. Sorry for delay. Had my own day in the workshop fixing a customer GV125 too! – It runs now thankfully but carb model.
I will make video tomorrow.
Sounds good, as that’s odd.
Well damn! I hope it gets sorted out. A new tensioner is always a good call! – Also new cam chains if they have worn down that much considering the mileage , it is almost time to rebuild the bike little by little.
Welcome to the forum, be sure to post a picture of it 😉
Carbs = 2.5 full turns out on each pot and leave them there forever , it lets you focus on other areas on the carb to fine tune it well 🙂 (also compression on the cylinder pistons or valves is very crucial )
Or watch for the rubber valve seals may drop the odd oil in to the pistons and making the spark plugs extra sooty or oily , so look at your spark plugs
You got this!
Hey,
The video was posted by a member on our forum here, anyway, can you post your own video ? Also tell us any mods ? service history ? parts replaced ? total miles it has done (4,000 miles you said and no more since then?) ?
In the meantime, take a look at this topic below and tell us if it fits your situation without us repeating it ? as it turned out for the guy below, it was his ISCV unit.
Also, here is this topic which contained your similar situation (Correct us if we are wrong). (could be ECU being fried by coils or stator or regulator as the guy confirms below)
