2010 EFI GT650R CHE on dash/no start
- This topic has 13 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 7 months ago by
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Hi all, first time poster, first Hyo owner. I was given a 2010 GT650R and was assured that it ran, just needed a new fuel pump because the barb on the pump had been broken off. Well, I have managed to temporarily fix the pump, but when I put it all back together, it wouldn’t start, not even a cough.
Since then, it has no power at the fuel pump, CHE on the dash, and won’t even cough. I have tested the resistance/ continuity of the blue wire from the dash to ecu, with a reading of 001, so from memory that means they are communicating to each other, but still have CHE on dash, tried starting it with roll over on and off, nothing, brand new battery, sprayed starting fluid into the air box, nothing, not even a cough, main fuse is in tact and tried different relays, still nothing.
Have I missed something, or is it a good chance the ECU may be no good???
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Silly question can you hear the fuel pump priming when you switch the ignition on
No, I get nothing. I checked the relay out, and it’s fine, tried a different relay, still nothing. Checked the pump with direct power, and the pump works.
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the che light usually means a communication problem with the ECU. Silly question but have you flicked the kill switch on?
Sure have, tried it on and off, still the same. I have done continuity test, but only on the blue wire, which is meant to be the comms line. I’m really hoping it’s not an ECU.
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the che light usually means a communication problem with the ECU. Silly question but have you flicked the kill switch on?
Sure have, tried it on and off, still the same. I have done continuity test, but only on the blue wire, which is meant to be the comms line. I’m really hoping it’s not an ECU.
Hey, do you think it’s possible that you can grab a can of “contact cleaner” and clean the contacts of the ECU plugs and the ECU it’s self.
It may be silly but also check connections to the clutch switch , side stand switch (bypass and join wires) and the stator plugs
(do check the stator pick up coil also) and injector connections.Wait about a day for things to fully dry out unless the contact cleaner instantly evaporates away.
Not all EFI’s ((since Korea makes variations of them Delphi, Daewoo, Sentec, Mitsubishi (rare), etc))) do this but some EFI models check the above ^ parts before trying to engage anything
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else, I would take a look to the roll-over sensor.
I had the same simptoms with mine (gv250 ei version) and finally a contact-cleaner bath to ECU conector did the work. After that, I had to change the fuel pump connector (loosy) and the fuel pressure regulator, that was stuck in “open” position, voiding an adequate fuel pressure in injectors’ circuit.
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I’m really at a loss, I sprayed most of the connectors including the ECU and still the same result. I’m thinking I may have to remove the air box, and follow the wiring, and clean out every plug, and look for any kinks in the wiring, and if that doesn’t work….. I don’t know.
is there any way to test the ECU to rule that out???
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I’m really at a loss, I sprayed most of the connectors including the ECU and still the same result. I’m thinking I may have to remove the air box, and follow the wiring, and clean out every plug, and look for any kinks in the wiring, and if that doesn’t work….. I don’t know. is there any way to test the ECU to rule that out???
By any chance have you downloaded one of the service manuals in the techinical section of this forum and get the 650 manual that corresponds to the version of your bike (Because yours is a 2010 , you either have a daewoo or mitsubishi ecu , but its rare for a 2010 to have a delpi ecu until later years but i won’t rule it out)
The service manual does have some pages where you can try to trick the ECU to give out an error code to the dash (if the CHE does go away) or it explains further what to do when CHE is present , though , their cartoon diagrams do explain how to test other electronics with a pocket meter to be on the safe side.
What you want to do is thoroughly check every electronic part on the bike, some can be tested without the bike needing to be running , it is a tedious process , but if it’s all ruled perfectly, that would leave just the ECU or the Harness itself. I pray its not the ECU, it is a costly part on its own self!
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After having a spray feet with half the plugs with cleaner, I noticed if I have the bike turned on, as if ready to start and then play with the gear lever, the CHE will disappear and it’s like it resets and does it again, so I’m thinking I’m going to have to pull the GP switch out and give it a good clean, and cross my fingers.
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Just tagging him, hope he sees this. If not, make a new topic for yourself and explain it all to us.
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I have the same problem , when I turn my ignition switch on and have the Killswitch on it shows cHE and when I turn the Killswitch off it goes away but my fuel pump never turns on , ever .. what could be the issue? Hyosung GT650R 2010 EFI
Have you checked there is power going to the fuel pump harness plug ?
Have you check there is power going to the fuel pump relay (4pin relay unit, usually blue or black)And try to switch headlight relay in to fuel pump relay, to see if the relay is faulty
After having a spray feet with half the plugs with cleaner, I noticed if I have the bike turned on, as if ready to start and then play with the gear lever, the CHE will disappear and it’s like it resets and does it again, so I’m thinking I’m going to have to pull the GP switch out and give it a good clean, and cross my fingers.
Keep us posted, we do have some progress now!
I am also praying the ECU is okay too.
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- You cannot reply to this topic.
- This topic has 13 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 7 months ago by .
-
Posts
-
-
Hi all, first time poster, first Hyo owner. I was given a 2010 GT650R and was assured that it ran, just needed a new fuel pump because the barb on the pump had been broken off. Well, I have managed to temporarily fix the pump, but when I put it all back together, it wouldn’t start, not even a cough.
Since then, it has no power at the fuel pump, CHE on the dash, and won’t even cough. I have tested the resistance/ continuity of the blue wire from the dash to ecu, with a reading of 001, so from memory that means they are communicating to each other, but still have CHE on dash, tried starting it with roll over on and off, nothing, brand new battery, sprayed starting fluid into the air box, nothing, not even a cough, main fuse is in tact and tried different relays, still nothing.
Have I missed something, or is it a good chance the ECU may be no good???
-
-
Silly question can you hear the fuel pump priming when you switch the ignition on
No, I get nothing. I checked the relay out, and it’s fine, tried a different relay, still nothing. Checked the pump with direct power, and the pump works.
-
-
the che light usually means a communication problem with the ECU. Silly question but have you flicked the kill switch on?
Sure have, tried it on and off, still the same. I have done continuity test, but only on the blue wire, which is meant to be the comms line. I’m really hoping it’s not an ECU.
-
the che light usually means a communication problem with the ECU. Silly question but have you flicked the kill switch on?
Sure have, tried it on and off, still the same. I have done continuity test, but only on the blue wire, which is meant to be the comms line. I’m really hoping it’s not an ECU.
Hey, do you think it’s possible that you can grab a can of “contact cleaner” and clean the contacts of the ECU plugs and the ECU it’s self.
It may be silly but also check connections to the clutch switch , side stand switch (bypass and join wires) and the stator plugs
(do check the stator pick up coil also) and injector connections.Wait about a day for things to fully dry out unless the contact cleaner instantly evaporates away.
Not all EFI’s ((since Korea makes variations of them Delphi, Daewoo, Sentec, Mitsubishi (rare), etc))) do this but some EFI models check the above ^ parts before trying to engage anything
-
else, I would take a look to the roll-over sensor.
I had the same simptoms with mine (gv250 ei version) and finally a contact-cleaner bath to ECU conector did the work. After that, I had to change the fuel pump connector (loosy) and the fuel pressure regulator, that was stuck in “open” position, voiding an adequate fuel pressure in injectors’ circuit.
-
I’m really at a loss, I sprayed most of the connectors including the ECU and still the same result. I’m thinking I may have to remove the air box, and follow the wiring, and clean out every plug, and look for any kinks in the wiring, and if that doesn’t work….. I don’t know.
is there any way to test the ECU to rule that out???
-
I’m really at a loss, I sprayed most of the connectors including the ECU and still the same result. I’m thinking I may have to remove the air box, and follow the wiring, and clean out every plug, and look for any kinks in the wiring, and if that doesn’t work….. I don’t know. is there any way to test the ECU to rule that out???
By any chance have you downloaded one of the service manuals in the techinical section of this forum and get the 650 manual that corresponds to the version of your bike (Because yours is a 2010 , you either have a daewoo or mitsubishi ecu , but its rare for a 2010 to have a delpi ecu until later years but i won’t rule it out)
The service manual does have some pages where you can try to trick the ECU to give out an error code to the dash (if the CHE does go away) or it explains further what to do when CHE is present , though , their cartoon diagrams do explain how to test other electronics with a pocket meter to be on the safe side.
What you want to do is thoroughly check every electronic part on the bike, some can be tested without the bike needing to be running , it is a tedious process , but if it’s all ruled perfectly, that would leave just the ECU or the Harness itself. I pray its not the ECU, it is a costly part on its own self!
-
-
After having a spray feet with half the plugs with cleaner, I noticed if I have the bike turned on, as if ready to start and then play with the gear lever, the CHE will disappear and it’s like it resets and does it again, so I’m thinking I’m going to have to pull the GP switch out and give it a good clean, and cross my fingers.
-
-
Just tagging him, hope he sees this. If not, make a new topic for yourself and explain it all to us.
-
-
I have the same problem , when I turn my ignition switch on and have the Killswitch on it shows cHE and when I turn the Killswitch off it goes away but my fuel pump never turns on , ever .. what could be the issue? Hyosung GT650R 2010 EFI
Have you checked there is power going to the fuel pump harness plug ?
Have you check there is power going to the fuel pump relay (4pin relay unit, usually blue or black)And try to switch headlight relay in to fuel pump relay, to see if the relay is faulty
After having a spray feet with half the plugs with cleaner, I noticed if I have the bike turned on, as if ready to start and then play with the gear lever, the CHE will disappear and it’s like it resets and does it again, so I’m thinking I’m going to have to pull the GP switch out and give it a good clean, and cross my fingers.
Keep us posted, we do have some progress now!
I am also praying the ECU is okay too.
-
- You cannot reply to this topic.