♠️ M77
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She sounds good! 1,800 rpm max idle is perfect. 2.5K rpm is too much. 1500 rpm is OEM.
Check the wiring harness from dashboard to the main bike frame and also make sure plugs do not have rust or broken pins
Ok mate cheers,
- That’s an option. I’ve just got mine off and took it apart and the o ring and seal look ok so I think I might be able to save it with a good ultrasonic cleaning and rebuild. They do sell them in the states still but the postage is more than the petcock 🤣 think refurbishment is the key here
That’s a good call, if you could save your old one, you save pennies too!
Battery = Tell us ,
- Age
- Brand & Code name printed on it
- Voltage produced with standard regulator when running before fitting a new one
Go to halfords or any bike shop ==> Ask them to use a Load Analyser Meter to take a deep dive on your battery. If its good the meter will flash and say “Battery Healthy” or ” Battery Needs Replacing ” (means cells inside are bad or discharging too fast which might annoy the stator and reg)
Hey,
Use this image below which comes from the actual service manual to test the stator unit first.
Click on the images , they should enlarge themselves.
NOTE , the stator unit does not NEED to be removed from , these are my pictures i used to help a customer in the past, so i could your topic today to link these pictures for future reference , i just had them laying around until i eventually made a proper tutorial (although, the same instructions can be find in the GT650 manuals section actually in this forum and follow the stator testing) Because Korea uses the same readings for 125 and 650 as well as 250 carb models. (EFi is different a depending on year sometimes)
So…..
Tell us what the image says above ^ and post us your readings on here.
If the pictures are confusing let us know? (I’ll edit your topic title so i find it easier to link it next time someone asks this question) they can join this thread.
Sounds silly from me but is there any chance also the “Choke” is still active ? = More revs usually means bike is being feed extra fuel or air from somewhere even if you disconnect throttle cable.
PS: Is hyosungwholesale.com legit? They’ve got lots of new oem stuff…
This is a known scam site. I would avoid it, if any website has “blue and white background” , they are scammers.
Hi. I’ve been in a low-speed crash a week ago on my hyo and almost everything on the right side is damaged. I’ve ordered used parts and they’ll arrive next week. Replacing the footpegs and the big right fairing seems easy, but my question is should I watch out for anything when disassembling and reinstalling the right handlebar and upper front fairing? Maybe there are some tricks I can use to make my job easier? Any help will be appreciated
Are you doing this or letting your mechanic it do it for you ? Since last time they serviced your bike ?
I would say do 1 small part at a time, this gives you time to learn how everything fits and how to put them back with replacements.Also try to upload pictures on here , if you are stuck on something because it will be easier to explain
Yes the tank has 2 pipes coming out of it , next to each other literally, block one of them.
And get something like this: (some have a hole, that can let you hook the frame using your wise creative mind 😉 )
Thats not made or sold anymore as Hyosung started changing their tanks around 2005 to use *in tank fuel tap*
So why not ditch it. And use an **Inline 8mm Fuel Tap** that has the ON/OFF switch that goes between the tank line and fuel filter line. They call it “fuel cock switch” in US tbh. Unsure of the brand we used last time on a customer bike but make sure its japanese made if Amazon still has em.
That way it is still possible to just reach for it and switch off the fuel when bike is no longer running.
That looks good, i won’t lie the Metal used in Korea could be improved! – At least the chassis is good part of it.
I thought maybe Hyosung did not invest too much in a “titanium” pulley, if people will replace belts and pulleys anyway like we do with chains. Out of the Hyosung range , 125 / 250 / 650 models , the GV650/St7 are the only ones with belts and pulleys.
I wonder if there is a place in ukraine that makes stronger belts for you ? – I am not very familar with that country as i do not have many customers from there to talk to or even have a supply chain network in ukraine.
Anyone who does aftermarket exhausts on this one? Jodo’s seems to be too small and will get burned eventually. LeoVinci is no longer in stock. And the guys that have them in UK are charging a ridiculous $1.1k for them on eBay.
You could ask for a quote locally where you live for a guy that does custom cruiser exhaust and he could adapt something for the GV ?
1 – Is everyone facing the back tire’s protector wearing off more on one side rather than on both sides at the same time?
You would be correct to say that the heavier side of the bike , means it is also easier to lean to it around the turns / bendy roads
So check that the wheel is also “100% straight” , as it if is like this /…../ instead of |…..| , it could also cause more wear on the belts too.2 – I’ve made a lot of upgrades to my GV in different ways and have a couple of ideas. What I’m planning to add is an oil radiator (yes, you heard it right). Now I’m gathering the info about the motor itself and can’t find what’s the hole under “????” mark. Can someone help? At least who had an experience of tearing this motor down? Cause I never got that far.
I believe that is just for the oil to circulate back in to the engine since the plug is there to stop oil shooting out (until there is gauge to check circulating oil pressure.)
3 – What do you do with the stock rear and front pulleys? Riding on a stock? Or got some upgrades too? Cause I’ve got an ST7 front pulley on my 2007 GV (no longer sold anywhere in the world, unless from hands). And the neck of it is twice as big as the 2007’s one. My rear pulley is now being modified with a hardened metal (planning to use a duraluminium plate instead of weak OEM silumin). Will share the results later. Whoever is riding a bike (GV650) and if it’s older than 2013, keep in mind, TIGHT your front pulley nut every season (at least twice to 3 times with 140 torque) Otherwise here’s the result and it’s not the worst one, even.
Have you considered switching to X-Ring chain kits ? – I have been thinbking of doing it on the shop, as some of my GV customers seem to prefer chain methods than dealing with pulleys and belts all the time …. but alas, the belts are smoooooooooth! (& more classic)
Welcome, and you should keep her. Don’t change the design , it looks really good with those saddle bags. I am digging the silver/black 2-tone effect on certain places of the bike 🙂
Everyone (who has never tried a Hyosung) thinks it’s chinese , but they forget Hyosung has a long history with Suzuki lol.
I bougt 2 new one from aliexpress. Waiting for them.
As long as it is a genuine Hyosung part, then it should be OK, as we tend to avoid chinese parts for a reason.
Good luck!
I bougt 2 new one from aliexpress. Waiting for them.
As long as it is a genuine Hyosung part, then it should be OK, as we tend to avoid chinese parts for a reason.
Good luck!
Have you thought about taking out the entire clutch assembly out (plates and discs) to check for cracks , distortions/warping , heat glazed springs that have weakened (eg. OEM says example 50mm free standing spring, the old spring now says 30mm free standing, so it is something to think about ?
Also take out the “push rod” that’s in the middle of the clutch basket (it just slides out) and check its not bent or warped ?
Could be for the horn or front coil = Honestly i’ve dug through diagrams i kept , Hyosung never sells that particular part for a 125 anyways, so it must be part of the harness as i can confirm 2x other looms i have of 2007 bikes have it too. I will call it a “mystery part” lol
Fair enough, take all the tape off , investigate the loom 1 strand at a time using your meter to test for any breaks.
Then re-wrap it all again nicely with fresh harness-tape (electrical tape that is proper so you can keep some water or winter misty air out with can cause wires to go brown inside)
If the N-Sensor is faulty, we can send you another one for you to try but i would also get a new oring from the shop for it as there is a camshaft directly behind it with oil, so you don’t want any leaks.
Also, relays = Are the indies OEM or aftermarket ? = If OEM , try to replace both the bulbs (shop) and the actual OEM relay unit (will try find it in workshop)
Defo sounds like something happend with the charging system (reg & stator) that cause electrics to go haywire now., well before you had a chance to upgrade the regs & coils.
Don’t forget even when the bike is OFF (keys out) , the reg is always connected permantently as the red wire goes 3 ways (fuse, battery , loom unit) = if the relay is buzzing without indies being on, that’s gonna cause new battery changes eventually and a very annoyed charging system
Here’s a question for you. The loom has diodes in to stop back feeding of voltage. Could one of these have gone bad and there is voltage back feeding somewhere through the system when I turn my lights on causing the tacho Junp and potentially my issues of frying coils and reg/recs?
Some diodes are simply called “mystery diodes” which Korea doesn’t tell us their actual purpose until we strip the whole loom apart before re-wrapping with fresh black leccy tape. Also Near the “Rear Coil” , there is a relay unit that controls the Neutral sensor , if the green light comes on on dash, the sensor should be working , i believe a voltage overspike (beyond 15v) or too much “amps/current” (stator wanning) would fry it slowly overtime.
Some relays in the harness control lights or the horn beeper. Some older hyosung looms (even 650s) had some at the front that look like relays but actually were called “igniters” for the spark system (like this one…here)
Hints from experience =
If the “RPM gauge” is zig zagging at any point = Coils , Stator , Harness , Battery (Zig Zags can happen when lights turn on, as lights mean extra load is being requested by the bike to stator/reg/ battery to power the lights on top of running the engine)
If the “LCD GLASS” that says the speed you’re doing goes dark, dim, flickers = harness / dodgy part on bike that’s taxing battery / battery or reg itself.
If the “rpm needle” is zig zagging while idling (with lights off) = see above ^
If the “rpm needle” is sweeping slowly up and down = Hunting for fuel , carb , pump , tap, or coils = Plugs may be shot at this point.Maybe i am crazy ? I wonder if i can do double-reg mod ? hhm…… yeah… too crazy but … i might try that for giggles.
Flatter start but gets better as revs rise = That’s the OEM reg that’s already inconsistent. Top end getting better means the reg was doing 15V (I hope not, but not a deal breaker , as that’s the OEM limit) = Though, it could also mean, higher revs forced the bike to get more juice from batter than the OEM reg can keep up?
The upgrade ones should be straight 13.5V from the get go, hence the electronics on your bike have woken up sooner but it won’t try to go beyond 15V. I think i have sold so many worldwide, not just here in UK , the regs i get come from Poland , the distrubitor has been good to me for that and some regs I get are from YSMoto (UK) (YellowSquare Bikes UK) , so they have been good. I’d be annoyed if every reg went on fire!😢 – You might have a voltage leak as you say or something is being taxed elsewhere. Wish i had the motorbike with me in workshop to do more indepth analysis
As for jerking = Our final request is to show us the plugs (Then i will know its fueling or coil issues or stator issue as it does control sparking with the CDI as revs go up and down).
Lights draw 55w , so a weaker reg will dim things a little bit until it catches on. It may look like you will need a 650 reg kit we do, this should be your LAST ever reg. I would be amazed if the 125cc blows it as it is about 3x bigger than the OEM , it’s very big. My 650 customers are happy with it, especially with EFi 2012 ones. We can’t be sending you new regs all the time lol. Spring is here, keep her , bike season is officially here and you know she is a good ride when everything is taken care of.
