♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I wish i did , i can’t seem to find it! – Tried manualsLib website for wiring diagram ? (I will upload more manuals for 250 on this site as soon as i finish up with the shop section, sorry for delays)
Curious to know what happened to your harness / ECU ?
If you can’t find an ECU, ill order one for you via trade but you can also message “SunCoastCycleSports” as they have been wonderful Americans getting us rare 650 parts over to my workshop to fix customer bikes SCCS have a public website, i am sure they are a US dealer. But see what Startrights says, i won’t like a lot of people give up even thinking to mess withthe harness, so i will be watching this thread for sure 😉
As long as the sensors work, that’s good but yes the dash has a microchip that expects a Hyosung ECU to run it correctly.
Hello,
All my trade contacts do not have it. And i do not recommend using websites like “wholesale, factory, eu, au etc..” as people have big problems with those websitesI do not have any business with Racing Planet, but maybe you can email them below before you do any orders as it is expensive!
https://www.racing-planet.co.uk/fig06-crankshaft-piston-p-173467-1.html?backcPathco=262&cPath=666_52367Yes, check my ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/evocrest for used parts
Sorry to hear that, but be sure and test compression on both cylinders if you can after the engine is warmed up ?
She is still alive and you still riding but ofcourse a rebuild will make it last longer hopefully since the previous twats clearly have abused the bike by the looks of it.
If you’re adamant for a new piston or rings, email us and tell us if its for front or rear and ill get it locally
Don’t bother with the “hyosung websites” that are blue & white , you will be back next week calling your bank for refund or fraud issues. There is posts about it on this forum anyway.
We still don’t know if its engine pistons or maybe cylinder valve has worn “oil seal” like these
Engine Valve Stem Guide Oil Seal (x4 Seals) – Various Hyosung Models
Because spark plug is directly between the 4 valves also. As soon as valve opens, it is possible a tiny bit of oil goes on the plug causing boggy runs (oily plug hard to spark, so it is stressed to keep sparking your engine)
Your ideas for replacing air filters etc are not a bad idea.
Last thing, when you ride on a private road or somewhere very safe to do so, ride up to 10,000 rpm, then look at mirrors, do you see smoke ?
When bike is hot , rev it to 5,000 when it is standing on idle , and let go of throttle , do you see smoke ?
Open the “FILLER” CAP for the oil on the clutch cover = smell inside , do you smell fuel ? ==> Maybe carb floats and float needs have burst open (replace them) because they may be leaking fuel in to the cylinders => causing piston walls to dry up instead of staying oil coated, so the fuel ends up in the engine crank etc == > Replace oil with motul 7100 and replace oil filter too!
I have never ever seen that before! , it looks like the tank will need repair / welding job as there should be no gap like that as if the small red center has broken away from the main tank upper shell.
Hey , welcome and what is your query regarding that image ?
am looking for parts number 6,7,10 rod connector ,pin crank and bearing crank pin for gd250r
i will find out tomorrow, if i can order it.
Does anyone know if the seat can be moved forward to make it look like the new gv125 evo? In my model there is a gap between the tank and the seat and I don’t really like it
EVO has a new seat what hides it and also new rear fender. (possible rear subframe change, possibly!)
I seen a possible to get a foam pad that is black and people get creative to wedge it in the middle , so the gap goes away.
There is a screw on some models near the seat (usually on the side of the plastic fenders) or under the wheel Or , like some other UK model of GV125s, there is a KEY hole on the left side. If you get stuck , take pictures and show us.
I found it, two screws in both sides of the seat. Thank you!
You’re welcome
I had to drop them an email whilst in work, not had a reply yet.
Best to ring them , usually are faster on that one 🙂
Welcome!
Have you had the chance to go to the “tutorial” section and see 3 guides posted up:
- Air Vacuum tutorial (applies to all carb 125cc)
- Fuel Hose Diagram from a GT (works with GV)
- GV Specific tutorial for fuel hoses (alternative)
Anything else you are stuck on, just post a picture of the specific parts you are not sure of.
Looks good to me!
Just make sure it has a DB Killer included, the EFi will cope with it and it was made for the Hyosung 250R specifically. I think Hyosung racebikes in New Zealand use those cans (some are EFI too)
The dashboard is also used on a 650R which uses water cooling , thermostat , etc – They “LOCKED” the chip on 125cc because they use “oil cooler radiator” instead.
So the best cooling mod you can do for her is a Hyosung 250cc EFi cooler (the later models) – Don’t buy from anything like WholeSale,Factory, EU, AU websites as those are scammers. If no one locally has a 250cc cooler, just let me know and ill try find one for you.
Or email SUNCOASTCYCLESPORTS in USA, because we use them to buy 250cc coolers to fit on our customer bikes here in Yorkshire too. Every 125cc , i just don’t like the teeny coolers they come with.
Welcome to the club and there is a wealth of info on this site, so read as much as you can on this forum!
Hey , welcome and what is your query regarding that image ?
The Speed Sensor that sits on the bottom left of the fork leg , and take it off , clean it a little bit then grease it up
Use contact cleaner to clean it’s other connector plug that’s going to the harness
Hope that works, if else fails, then replace the sensor.
Based on that part number, the harness needs an ECU that was made with Mikuni & Mitsubishi specifically for the Hyosung 2008 bike (The harness you have is a 2008)
That means you should have a “black dashboard with GREEN TEXT” on it too. So i don’t think Suzuki ECU’s will run well. The dashboard & stators in the bike respond to a Hyosung ECU also and even as much as getting an error code on the dash will need a Hyosung ECU
Hyosung moved on to DELPI these days , so to actually replace the ECU is rare but it is possible i could get one , if Startrights doesn’t come through , but its stupid expensive (almost £1k to get one & it will take time due to special order status)
DO you have standard indicators or LED ones changed up?
DIsconnect the indicators by their plugs (incase there is a kink or damage along the harness)
Or the relay has gone burst. (We don’t know if you use OEM relay or LED indicator Relay)
Also, it would help to strip the bike down to follow all the wires for the indicators because we don’t know if the rain water has caused electric issues or if there is a wire in the bike that is rubbing against the frame (causing a short , then the bike switches off)
It would be a wise call to change the O-Ring as the old o-ring will be caked up due to heat fatigue , so it won’t seal properly next time it goes in.
No need to drain the oil, BUT a “tiny patch” of oil will come out, simply because behind the switch is a camshaft drum for the gearbox
Take it out SLOWLY! = There is a spring and pin behind the switch too.
IF you need the O-Ring , here it is:
Neutral Sensor (Gearbox Switch Drive) O-Ring Seal – Various Hyosung Models
Send us an email as we have loads of them on this site’s shop pages.
Mikuni doesn’t make them anymore but we managed to get a lot of old stock, i would say that brass nut and the “mixture screws” are like the most delicated parts of carb!
If urgency is a thing, contact SunCoastCycleSports in US , as we do buy their stock every now and them for the bikes we fix on our UK soil. They may have an old carb laying around or a salvage bike to strip parts from.
A Delphi ECU would require an Delphi Harness and possible some sensors and even coils changing over to DELPHI
Please call Startright Motorcycles tomorrow and tell them we sent you as i know 10000% they have an ECU on their shelf , last time i went to see them but i can’t remember which one it was
I hope it’s the black one or at least they will even have an old 650 harness laying around.
I don’t like what the previous keepers did , it makes it hard for you or us as sellers to get you correct parts afterwards,
They would have at least drop the actual SV650 lump in their with all its ancillaries in to the frame otherwise , Hyosung likes everything to be Hyosung or nothing works as you found out clearly.
If you cut the “4 bolt” fitting , like below:
Then you can find any 51mm exhaust muffler , We here in the UK recommend,
- Black Widow Exhausts
- MTC Exhaust (Max Torque Cans)
- Lextek OP1
- Lextek (other full size 51mm)
Also , DB killer is important, because the vtwin does not like it when it is too free flowing , it needs some gases to stay inside, it helps with torque a little bit.
It is possible in your country you will the companies above shipping to you via Amazon or Ebay as they have their own websites too on the internet too.
If you want to keep the 4-bolt fitting, we heard good recommendations from USA for the company called “2Brothers /TwoBrothers” exhausts who make them specifically for the GT250, they look good! (But a little too expensive for some of us in UK haha.)
AliExpress Mufflers = I would avoid them if i can help it, they turn to rust and it’s nothing inside but a shell of loudness. These cans make your bike sound like a hair drier or lawnmower, the “crispness” of sound is missing , you get a “better sound even with DB killer fitted” using the companies above
SHORTY (Stubby Cans) = I don’t like them but that’s just me, i’ve also tried to love them but my bikes hate them to due to “literally no gains” but hearing loss. lol
Regards
PS. as you have an EFI model with Lambda sensors in the pipe => The “DB Killer” and “Full Size Muffler” is important for the long run.
