♠️ M77
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Hey,
Some of them do yes , but not all of them. If yours isn’t there, it is a good thing as that object is very annoying. 99% of us cut off it and bridge the wires then safely tape it under the loom to protect from rain/rust or shorting the frame.
The middle of the tensioner has a plug , remove it, and use a slot (-)screw driver , undo the tensioner unti it locks stop, this means the tensioner will retract, then you can safely put it back inside cylinder and screw again the middle (slot-) , then the tensioner pops out again to push the chain
If this makes sense ?
Welcome Jamie , and that is a nice looking GV, especially with that has been done to the tail fender , it reminds me of what Hyosung was trying to do on their later GV650 models , and funny enough the 2020’s GVs now have slim tails (with just enough to still allow a pillion passenger!)
Will keep my eyes on this project journal.
Exhaust = Do you know anyone or your own 2 hands can weld a “Y” shape piping that joins front and rear pipes in to a single 51mm outlet ? – I say this because the 51mm size hole seems most common for bikes and you have a wider choise of end cans to choose from.
Do you have pictures of your end can if you have it already ?
This is the set I got from AliExpress, changed them recently. Also to mention again bike used to run fine, until I messed with this cable that is on right side of bike (
Then it means you will need to re-adjust that screw again.
“clockwise” = more revs
“anti-clockwise” = reduce revsIf its too low, it won’t start,
Try to turn it to maximum clockwise , then start the bike, and quickly reduce it until it is around 1300 rpm
When the bike is hot , make sure it is idling at 1500 rpm , then no need to touch it ever again, next time it will always start and idle at 1500 rpm.
Can you check your relays ? Sounds like relays have gone burst (it will have various if it is an EFi 650 Injected model) , Carb Models have less relays. You didn’t order a new one already did you ?
Then if the lights went burst, check the bulbs themselves ?
Also , check the wiring harness if there is a kink , break, or water invasion? or shorting to the frame?
Looks like you got a weird lockset , generally orange and red at the harness side is going torwards the ignition barrel, some cases there is indeed a black wire with a white strip (ground or negative) , and extra red wire if the harness needs it.
Can you call “Startright Motorcycles” tomorrow, they have a dashboard in stock and even the LCD glass , i hope it’s not sold by them – Tell them Marcel sent you. And clearly specifiy it is for a 2007 era bike that uses a “Matrix Black Glass” LCD with green text.
Your spare harness was sent off today via Yodel, so check your email as P2G will email you themselves for a tracker code to follow it. Maybe you can save both harnesses and 1 is working , done up well and the other is also a fixed up working backup.
Mannol Harness Tape is ace for wrapping harnesses (we use it all the time)
I don’t have one at hand , but take pictures of your current dashboard loom, and see if you spread them, i will tell you what each wire colour dash.
Becareful , some universal dashes don’t work with Hyo Speed Sensors (mph counter) unless the aftermarket dash has its own wiring first , and its own speed sensor (sometimes its magnets supplied)
Then take pictures again, we have to try “not” to cut the hyosung wiring
I will advise how best to make your own separate “mini” loom for the aftermarket dash that will join the main hyosung loom , sort of like “plug & play” style
I’m hoping to keep her she is great to ride feels solid and thanks for the tip about the grips and heated gloves will check them out what regulator do you mean to replace sorry I’m not very mechanical but am learning as I go along
It’s okay, it is this object below:
Make it the 1st electrical mod you will do on herUpgrade Regulator Rectifier [Reg Rec] :: GV GT 125 250 R GTR Hyosung
Battery = Go to halfords or Bike garage , ask them to test the battery using a “YUASA LOAD ANALYZER GAUGE” , the big box will probe the battery and the screen will either say “battery good or battery needs replacing” = To save from future stresses of the stator (alternator inside engine) + regulator (rectifier) as they are married as a threesome believe it or not. Bad stator means it will eat the regulator or battery or bad regulator will overspike the battery and it blows , vise versa.
Stator should be fine but if unsure , make a new topic , we may guide you on how to test the stator unit (alternator) , just have a pocket meter handy.
Battery = Yuasa YTX 9BS or 10BS max (12BS/14BS won’t fit, too big) (7BS is too tiny, its for scooters) from halfords (online ones can be fake from dody sellers or they sell new ones that have rotted on shelf for months)
Hey,
For the exhaust since you want it short, i find that personally this one (is short but fat) is loud but not too loud with the DB Killer fitted inside and it will not restrict the bike, in fact , it might “too free flowing” , if you get a DB Killer, you want to crush the “inner pipe” of the DB killer itself so that the hole is about 2cm diameter. If the hole is too big (generally with these aftermarket mufflers aimed at 600cc bikes) , the 250cc will lose some torque.
This one
https://www.lextekproducts.com/part/YP4
I believe they ship to AU , but worth asking them ? It is also stainless 51mm slip on. Lextek is a common exhaust brand in the UK, that’s why it was at the top of my head but there is loads of other mufflers out there in similar dimensions as the Lextek YP4The actual rear pipe for the rear cylinder has no restrictor inside , neither does the front portion. See the black box that is on the exhaust system under your fairings, that kills most of the noise (silencing) and there may be something else in there that restricts the flow of the bike a little bit to comply with some countries that require the bike to be less loud & restricted in some form. Cut the box in the middle there, and find some “Y” shape pipe to join “rear + front + exiting pipe” , now you have a free flow system, even welding is OK. Just make sure the rear engine cylinder pipe is detachable incase you want to remove the engine!
K&N is discontinued forever for carb models , however fear not, we actually send BMC Italy & D/A EU filters as a replacement and are more superior than K&N ever was for carb models. K&N still has filters for EFI 650 bikes but ofcourse they do not fit the 250cc . The jets are important yes , that’s why it was mandated to include them with the sale , we wouldn’t sell the filters without jets as more air = more fuel or the bike gets too lean.
As for coils , send me an email for a custom quote in the future as i may be able to get you Mitsubishi Japan ones or Hitachi Japan coils , if the bike is going to be subject to the track runs. NGK caps = trusted brand, you will be OK and recommended. I would not use OEM HT caps on the tracks, we don’t even sell the new ones.
Regulator = Very very important, send us an email and we may find you a monster shingden regulator , like this one below (but i will create the harness to plug & play on the 250cc) (ignore the 650 stator, just look at the galley that shows the regulator)
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Generator – GV650 GT650 Hyosung {Carby & EFi up to 2013}
Chinese regulators always pop and sometimes they set the hyos on fire. We did have 1 picture of a bike on fire due to a bad regulator.
Stator = Should be fine if its within spec.
That’s a red beauty! – Hope you keep her , they are so comfy to ride , i used to own one before i sold it and went to a GT lol. But i might buy one again just so the family can also have a go on it.
As for your accessories = forwarning , don’t put heated grips as the hyosung 125 stators do not like it , but do upgrade the regulator as its a common failing electric item , the rest of the electrics are fine. It’s just the regulator that’s got to go. It’s that annoying (& avoid chinese copies either), nothing fun about trying to find a rare new harness after the old chinese regulator has fried it, and new stator etc…
For your hands in winter = go to KIES APPAREL website as they do heated gloves with a portable battery that goes in your pocket.
USB charging should be OK, as long as it’s wired properly and isn’t interfering the bike harness , USB generally draws 500 mili amps – 2.4A typically.
That EU LeoVince exhaust gotta sound good huh 😉
Good for you! – I guess its one way to learn about the bike but don’t rush anything. The factory plug is CR8E which you find at any local halfords
Hyosungs do NOT like “Iridium IX” (The blue boxes) – Overhyped junk plugs tbh and only good for 5k miles.
NGK’s best plug is the Laser Platinums , like what you see in this forum store. 👍
Ignore CR7 , CR9 = the bike will get in a bad mood later on. Just CR8E is more than enough for the entire year. So ignore anyone saying it’s better to use incorrect plugs. I always throw away incorrect plugs whenever i fix a customer bike. And i either use CR8E or Laser (if they want to upgrade it with ngk’s ht leads with it) Since the OEM black leads commonly fail (Hyosung doesn’t make the HT leads, so it’s just a common outsourced unbranded part for various bikes)
Welcome! – Hope you will take a picture journal thread in the forum so we can follow you exploits all the way to the track 😉 Be nice to see that!
Let’s start with the exhaust…..
– Do you have a budget ? There is a UK company that makes stainless exhausts for us here in UK but it is possible they will ship to AU as they do have an ebay shop themselves by the name of BLACK WIDOW EXHAUSTSOr
– Do you know someone locally who is able to “cut” the middle cat box of your stock pipes ===> then replace the middle with a straight pipe , then go grazy with VHT paint , nature forbid it rains and the oem pipes start rusting due to unpainted surface on it.
For muffler , }
– Have you learned any regulations in your State about how loud the bike should be ? any meters they use to test bike noise levels. ?
There may be a chance that they want a “full size” muffler (similar to the OEM version) but aftermarket ones will be loads lighter.If you keep the stock exhaust pipes ====> Cut the 4 bolt flange off ==> The find any “51mm slip-on” exhaust can/muffler that will comply with your local track noise levels ?
If the tensioner came out , it means you will have to remove the stator casing or clutch basket (depends which cylinder you touched) and check the chain did not fall out of the teeth at the bottom of the crank
Then use the manual as if you were installing a cam chain again , and setting up new camshafts again
While the cam shafts are removed , check under the tappets for shim sizes currently on the bike = Eg. Rear cylinder might have 125 and 145 for intake and 200 210 for exhaust , so keep those in mind….
Put everything back together properly and follow the manual until you are safely able to spin the crank a feel times by “hand” to make sure the timings are good.
if the timings are good, then follow the manual again, to find valve clearances.
Eg. If 1x shim is saying 0.35mm on exhaust but the manual says you need 0.20-0.30 clearance. You have a 21o shim. You will buy a 200 or 205 shim to reduce the clearance from 0.35 in to maybe 0.29 healthy. The manual will explain further but hopefully i made sense ?
Let us know if we missed anything , be patient and you got this! 👍 – If you master this well, it won’t scare you next time.
What Simon said , it sounds poorly 🙁
Do you know if you can remove fairings and use your ears to find the closest area thats making noise?
Cam tensioner?
Clutch basket?
Cam shafts?
Cam chain grinding noises?
Dont rev it too hard incase something snaps as it sounds poorly 🙁
I literally just sent you parts lol.
Screw those mechanics anyway. You could learn a lot better than them and this forum has every 650 manual i could find and its uploaded in manuals section for you.
Clearances = Shims yes because Hyosung did the same thing when they helped Suzuki with their old suzuki gsx engines. I think most suzukis and Hyosungs today still use Shims. The 2020+ GV125/GV300 uses adjustable tappets (on certain models)
Tensioners = Automatic, cant be adjusted but better to safe than sorry is getting new cam tensioners anyway. That 650 is a beast that a tensioner failing can ruin a lot of parts.
I tend to replace tensioners as soon as i hear funny sounds from cam tensioner on customer bikes i work on just to be safe than sorry later.
I think the engines in good health, bought it with 4000 km to replace the old broken one, this engine runs good and doesn’t have any other issues I’m aware of
Any extra heavy luggage attached to the bike?
Tyre pressures?
Check wheels for *drag* coming from bad brakes that need service
Is the RING center silver colour? Because i could not tell in photos. Or can you take more photos of front plug again vs rear plug?
The screw on the left stator case is for *Idle adjustment* it controls how many rpm the bike should idle when it is hot
If engine is hot. Turn down screw to 1500 rpm and leave it there forever.
You may need to tell us jet sizes in the bike what size pilots in the carb? What size rear and front main jets?
2002 yamaha yz250f, I understand the weight difference but still the hyosung in so slow
The same GV250 engine used in New Zealand GTR bikes for Hyosung racing they can push 95mph when tuned right.
The torque can be forgiven due to Yamaha being lighter in fairness but really all depends how well the GV250 was looked after ? And if the engine needs an overhaul if its been too old of neglect
1 tooth down on the front sprocket helps but you lose about 10mph of whatever top speed it has on now. Id focus on the engine health first 🙂
Is there someone locally who can copy your current shifter and add an extra thick steel bar so that you have basically an S-shifter
Then add a rubber toe peg on the other end for the heel.
I believe Korea Hyosung sold them as accessory a long time ago before being discontinued. So ive seen Brazilians basically weld things up by hand when i trawled through their instagram pictures at one point.
It doesnt seem too complicated for a good cnc/fabricator guy locally to do it.
Most online *so called* spares websites tend to be scammy as they have bad reviews sadly. I could order one for you from real Hyosung UK that is MotoGB but they stopped also (as the factory has moved on now to the newer injection GV125-S models)
Sorry for the mixed reply
Looking better now 🙂
Are you putting a “Belly Pan” next ?
Send us an email for sales enquiries you would like me to do 🙂
https://hyoriders.club/contact/embed/#?secret=1Jj06COV6m#?secret=dXZ8vUrkh7 Better look after them intake pipes , getting rare as hell!!!!
hi guys. Thankyou for the info so far it has been more than helpful.. I managed to sort my master cylinder rear out myself works great now.. I have an intake manifold that the metal plate has come away from so does anybody know what i could use to bond them back together please?
Have a look at old youtube videos of people trying to restore manifolds for 1980s-1990s big carby bikes (some bikes have 4 cylinders that take 4 carbs , you will learn the tricks they use to preserve the intake pipes)
(Get a spare inlet manifold before doing this)
Like these ones we have (I did not bother restoring them as i was too busy fixing customer bikes at the time, and it’s time consuming for me when i had more urgent matters in the past, so just threw them on ebay for anyone willing to save them) (not made anymore by Korea)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256272056786
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255939516578
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255824466773I will eventually find a way crazy way to merge an intake pipe from another bike (ie. honda or whatever) and retroifit it on a hyosung because i need to start working with my cnc guy to make metal ones that look nothing like the originals.
Looks like this original thread you started (connecting fuel) seems resolved , you can start a new topic if you have a separate issue. This one will get archived for future readers 😉
You got this!
