Cam chain tensioner
- This topic has 4 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 6 months ago by
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I would not advise manual tensioners in my opinion, to put in short:
- Race teams dont mind, they do engine rebuilds or have access to the motor all the time
- Not really for street use
- if the chain starts to wear down (it always does), the tensioner “MUST” be adjusted frequently or always checked the tension is good.
- if the tensioner pushes too hard , the chain will go or cam parts will wear off much sooner
- if the tensioner pushes too loose, the cams will jump a tooth at high speed and possibly take out a piston , because if it skips timings, the valve will hit a piston.
- you have to stay on top of it , the more of a daily bike it becomes eg riding far miles to work every day, the more it needs attention (says so in manual)
You can PM me i may be able to supply you a new cam chain within the same week fast , i think its still there.
Automatic tensioners are ideal and they work, like every other bike brand out there, sometimes they make sounds causing us to change them almost immediately before they cause issuses to the engine, sometimes bad batches are made (rushed in production), some will survive for miles and miles.
Hyosung 125GTs & Rs have been through 3 tensioner designs , you didn’t say what year your engine is ?  it has a big head or a small head tensioner behind the motor. (do you see a center bolt in the middle or do you see a rubber plug in middle etc…)
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Hi,
Recently I had to remove the cylinder head of my GT250 to check a valve related issue.
In order to remove the cams one has to release the tension on the chain from the chain tensioner. As per manual I undid the 2 outer bolts whist leaving the settings bolt untouched.
I have now reassembled everything and I have found out that chain is already well tensioned even before the 2 outside bolts are fully tightened.
The instruction manual I have, is quite hopeless when it comes to explain the correct way to achieve proper tension.
Can somebody please advise?
Regards
joe
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The middle of the tensioner has a plug , remove it, and use a slot (-)screw driver , undo the tensioner unti it locks stop, this means the tensioner will retract, then you can safely put it back inside cylinder and screw again the middle (slot-) , then the tensioner pops out again to push the chain
If this makes sense ?
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That makes a lot of sense. Thanks. initially I had thought that you had to screw or unscrew with an M10 that centre bolt to arrive at the correct tension.
To complete your description, one needs to turn the internal screw fully clockwise to retract the pin and then to unscrew half a turn or so to release the spring tensioner.
By the way I had a lot of aggravation aligning the cam shafts with the crank, with the engine in place. The chain kept slipping one tooth whilst trying to engage correctly the second cam.
I hope I don’t have to repeat this in the near future!
Regards
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- This topic has 4 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 6 months ago by .
-
Posts
-
-
-
I would not advise manual tensioners in my opinion, to put in short:
- Race teams dont mind, they do engine rebuilds or have access to the motor all the time
- Not really for street use
- if the chain starts to wear down (it always does), the tensioner “MUST” be adjusted frequently or always checked the tension is good.
- if the tensioner pushes too hard , the chain will go or cam parts will wear off much sooner
- if the tensioner pushes too loose, the cams will jump a tooth at high speed and possibly take out a piston , because if it skips timings, the valve will hit a piston.
- you have to stay on top of it , the more of a daily bike it becomes eg riding far miles to work every day, the more it needs attention (says so in manual)
You can PM me i may be able to supply you a new cam chain within the same week fast , i think its still there.
Automatic tensioners are ideal and they work, like every other bike brand out there, sometimes they make sounds causing us to change them almost immediately before they cause issuses to the engine, sometimes bad batches are made (rushed in production), some will survive for miles and miles.
Hyosung 125GTs & Rs have been through 3 tensioner designs , you didn’t say what year your engine is ?  it has a big head or a small head tensioner behind the motor. (do you see a center bolt in the middle or do you see a rubber plug in middle etc…)
-
Hi,
Recently I had to remove the cylinder head of my GT250 to check a valve related issue.
In order to remove the cams one has to release the tension on the chain from the chain tensioner. As per manual I undid the 2 outer bolts whist leaving the settings bolt untouched.
I have now reassembled everything and I have found out that chain is already well tensioned even before the 2 outside bolts are fully tightened.
The instruction manual I have, is quite hopeless when it comes to explain the correct way to achieve proper tension.
Can somebody please advise?
Regards
joe
-
The middle of the tensioner has a plug , remove it, and use a slot (-)screw driver , undo the tensioner unti it locks stop, this means the tensioner will retract, then you can safely put it back inside cylinder and screw again the middle (slot-) , then the tensioner pops out again to push the chain
If this makes sense ?
-
That makes a lot of sense. Thanks. initially I had thought that you had to screw or unscrew with an M10 that centre bolt to arrive at the correct tension.
To complete your description, one needs to turn the internal screw fully clockwise to retract the pin and then to unscrew half a turn or so to release the spring tensioner.
By the way I had a lot of aggravation aligning the cam shafts with the crank, with the engine in place. The chain kept slipping one tooth whilst trying to engage correctly the second cam.
I hope I don’t have to repeat this in the near future!
Regards
-
- You cannot reply to this topic.