♠️ M77
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What kind of signal does the dashboard receive? Can I replicate that with an Arduino or something similar to test the dashboard?
I forgot (as i drank today lol) , but i can tell that the RPM signal comes from the front ignition coil + CDI + stator to count flywheel speed (faster flywheel means more sparking)
Sounds like we have to see your spark plug colours (side view and center view too)
123 kmh / 77mph = I would say 90mph is the factory speed because over 100mph all the time will be big issues later. So 76 is not too far away from 90mph
Hopefully also you can take a video of the “unstable” idling (but alas , the rpm rev counter isn’t working) – Is there also a wrecked bike in your country to try another matching display dashboard ?
Regards
Okay fella, don’t touch it anymore and i would get fresh CR8E plugs from halfords , and take pictures of the plugs after a long run , just to make sure you are not leaning out! – Messing with mixtures would send you in to an abyss!
Defo avoid “IX-Blue Box” iridium plugs, they don’t like em. Stock CR8E or LASER is best for them (LASER is actually NGK’s preferred plug & is OEM to some Suzuki bikes)
Hi Marcel I think there is a broken connector inside housing where bulb goes in,do you sell replacement indicator
Send us an email for a quote and i will see if i can get it
If the carb floats are facing the sky , the height is 7mm from the gasket surface. If the carb diapgram covers are facing the sky , they floats will move (come away from the carb bowls) to about 14-17mm ish. So be careful adjusting the float tangs both ways as not to overflow the carb (flooding) or giving too little fuel.
KTM air filter ? Can you show us ? = I am suspicious on this area now.
Have you tried this mod below?
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Exhaust = keep the baffle inside. It will help with backpressure a little bit as vtwins need it to get goin on the lower revs, so it should smooth things out a little bit , otherwise a missing baffle makes her loud but throttle feels too harsh. (it looses the crispy feel)
Jets = It could be why the last engine died ? , I would upjet the bike , here is a tutorial below
[Tutorial] How to swap Carb Main Jets – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
There should be a little screw yes to remove the orange glass to change indicator bulb
This topic is locked as it is a duplicate of the other one you made , and i have responded to it 🙂
Topic below:
Aquila gv125 carby – Stator Test / Regulator charging issues
Switch the meter to AC (500V AC / 500VAC) and rev to 5,000 rpm and tell us please ? = If the stator is frying up, then it will fry the next regulator (whichever one you get, it will eat it)
OHMS test = Do this when the bike is overnight ice cold.
Pictures ? It would help us identify what you see correctly as there is an overflow (breather pipe) and (Drain Pipe) all have T junctions , so let us know which is which and ill tell you 😉
Nice one! and you’re welcome 🙂
Keep an eye on the battery and the plugs every now and then
Ride steady this hot season!
Not all of them fit , as mounting holes have a specific distance and some may have spigots that are too tall and will hit the tank inside.
If you can’t wait for shipping, why not use Carb Cleaner to clean the old tap ?
We have the tap in stock and will ship very quickly if it is urgent, just email us tonight (Can’t post till Tuesday due to UK Public Holiday / Post Office is closed on Monday)
A 2010 Naked 650 will have the same electric dash (one with LCD glass) , and it will fit your 2010 GT650R
Your readings for the orange and red wire is good! – So it looks like it might be dash being faulty , and did you smell inside the dash for any burn marks or signs of water invasion to it ?
I pray it wasn’t fried due to bad battery and regulator (hence 99% of Hyosung 650 owners replace them with proper Shindgen Regulators like you see on this shop)
Stators = I hope the current one is OK , if not, it will stop any sparks. And if it does work, each single yellow wire must output 80v @5k revs , identically all 3 , as it’s a 3-Phase unit. When it is ice cold overnight , each single yellow wire must be under a single Ohm (Ideally 0.3 – 0.8 ohm max) , if it’s beyond 1.00 ohm , replace it right away.
The pulse trigger (2 pin stator plug) = Should be under 140 ohms ice cold overnight
Hmmm,
Do you have old thick speaker wires around and some soldering iron ? plus LOTS of very sticky black insulating electric tape ?
I would say is it possible to cut the patch of rusted wires and bridge in a new strip of wire inside to complete the circuit ?
After all the harness has been stripped down and repaired (don’t forget to isolate the repaired patches with electric tape or ideally shrink wrap tubes
Then you can hide the harness with this tape we use in our workshop
Fingers crossed you will resolve it!
This topic is locked as you made a duplicate one, so i will keep an eye on the video that has a video uploaded inside.
Welcome and try these ?
- Sounds stupid, is the “Tap” on the tank fully working ? If its faulty, replace that first.
Or check that it’s on RESERVE mark , in case the other spigot is clogged for the “ON” part. (it has 2 spigots = ON + RESERVE) - Fuel Pump = Open it very slowly and use carb cleaner gently and close it back as it has springs inside and a rubber diaphragm (Don’t spray inside the SILVER VACUUM PORT)
- Check vacuum diagram (like this one)
- Check fuel lines is going to correct places (like this one)
- Run to Halfords and get only “YELLOW BRADEX EASY START” and spray the Air Filter! (not the airbox) , just the filter, so its wet ,
- Full Choke,
- Crank the bike and twist throttle up and down really quickly and let go of the starter motor after 5 seconds so you don’t burn the starter or its relay
- At this point, it should be screaming at 4k revs on choke, leave it there for 5 mins.
- Then slowly reduce the choke
- Check the “MAGNETO SIDE” under the coils for an idle adjuster cable, make sure it idles at 1.500 rpm cold or maximum 1800 rpm hot.
let us know your updates ?
I wish i did , i can’t seem to find it! – Tried manualsLib website for wiring diagram ? (I will upload more manuals for 250 on this site as soon as i finish up with the shop section, sorry for delays)
Curious to know what happened to your harness / ECU ?
If you can’t find an ECU, ill order one for you via trade but you can also message “SunCoastCycleSports” as they have been wonderful Americans getting us rare 650 parts over to my workshop to fix customer bikes SCCS have a public website, i am sure they are a US dealer. But see what Startrights says, i won’t like a lot of people give up even thinking to mess withthe harness, so i will be watching this thread for sure 😉
As long as the sensors work, that’s good but yes the dash has a microchip that expects a Hyosung ECU to run it correctly.
Hello,
All my trade contacts do not have it. And i do not recommend using websites like “wholesale, factory, eu, au etc..” as people have big problems with those websitesI do not have any business with Racing Planet, but maybe you can email them below before you do any orders as it is expensive!
https://www.racing-planet.co.uk/fig06-crankshaft-piston-p-173467-1.html?backcPathco=262&cPath=666_52367Yes, check my ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/evocrest for used parts
Sorry to hear that, but be sure and test compression on both cylinders if you can after the engine is warmed up ?
She is still alive and you still riding but ofcourse a rebuild will make it last longer hopefully since the previous twats clearly have abused the bike by the looks of it.
If you’re adamant for a new piston or rings, email us and tell us if its for front or rear and ill get it locally
Don’t bother with the “hyosung websites” that are blue & white , you will be back next week calling your bank for refund or fraud issues. There is posts about it on this forum anyway.
We still don’t know if its engine pistons or maybe cylinder valve has worn “oil seal” like these
Engine Valve Stem Guide Oil Seal (x4 Seals) – Various Hyosung Models
Because spark plug is directly between the 4 valves also. As soon as valve opens, it is possible a tiny bit of oil goes on the plug causing boggy runs (oily plug hard to spark, so it is stressed to keep sparking your engine)
Your ideas for replacing air filters etc are not a bad idea.
Last thing, when you ride on a private road or somewhere very safe to do so, ride up to 10,000 rpm, then look at mirrors, do you see smoke ?
When bike is hot , rev it to 5,000 when it is standing on idle , and let go of throttle , do you see smoke ?
Open the “FILLER” CAP for the oil on the clutch cover = smell inside , do you smell fuel ? ==> Maybe carb floats and float needs have burst open (replace them) because they may be leaking fuel in to the cylinders => causing piston walls to dry up instead of staying oil coated, so the fuel ends up in the engine crank etc == > Replace oil with motul 7100 and replace oil filter too!
- Sounds stupid, is the “Tap” on the tank fully working ? If its faulty, replace that first.
