♠️ M77
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See if you can get a battery charger made for bikes (not cars!) —> Charge the battery –> Then try to start it. And yes as long as there is at least 5 litres of unleaded petrol, the tank will have fuel. The fuel pump does not like to start when tank is empty as it damages the fuel pump if it is dry. Very expensive part.
After that , make sure to a pocket meter ====> Rev the bike to 5,000 rpm ==> voltage should be 13.5V-14.5V and idle voltage should also be 13.5 to 14.5v
If it is lower than 13.5v = charging system issues.
If it is higher than 14.5v = charging system issues. I would NOT ride it until it is fixed
Charging system = Regulator (common) that is why we sell Japan upgrades on this shop , and Stator Unit (if OEM regulator damaged it) and sometimes battery is too old and needs replacing with a new battery.
Bike switched off ? NO KEYS? ==> Battery should be 12.8v-13.1v charged.
It sounds more like the left switch gear is the culprit (it does control the lights including turn signals)
If its a carby model , check the right switch too (incase contacts are rusty inside the cluster & the terminal connector)
If in doubt, it is a good idea to replace the headlight relay and double check all front headlight H1 & h3 bulbs are 55w 12v (any higher will cause issues and melt harness)
The fact that your low h3 bulb even flicked for a second means the power does reach the bulb, so the “main harness” of the bike should be okay but don’t rule it out yet as it could be your last battle but hopefully not.
Can you add some pictures of this mystery plug ?
If you have already figured it out, your pictures will help others for sure!
Confirm with your bike with this user-submitted document which matches our carbs.
Welcome fella,
Don’t worry about the retirement, this is where i say “the fun begins” , where its all about you now 😉
Either the “famous” harleys or Hyosungs ? The GV650 is comfier with a “sporty engine” , so it is no slouch of a bike but does enough freeway miles using a big front sprocket to lower revs (if it has had a chain conversion done). So good choice on keeping the Hyosung all these years.
Again, welcome to the club
I take it the chain fitted alright then ? what links were cut ? I might have sent a longer one to give you room
Go through the wiring harness with a meter and confirm the terminal plugs (bullet connectors) of the indicators on your meter are pulsing 12v
eg. 12 0 12 0 12 0 = Then you know power is going there, then investigate the actual indicator “shell” itself for rusty contacts for the bulbs.Fake emissions ball thats next to the horn , anbd you will find the second one under the ignition coils.
Honestly, i’d get EGR blanks on this store…. and follow this topic below:
[Tutorial] AIS Removal Guide – Hyosung GV125C (EGR Blank Kit Fitting Guide)
You could cry , but i feel like its best to remove the carb one more time and thoroughly clean it , then
- Make sure the slides are not sticky
- Float height (it matters or else the pilot jets may not reach the fuel before its shut off hence poor idling)
- Keep the choke cable removed from the carb (just incase the choke is frayed or the choke rail is sticky)
This is exactly to a tee how our carb works because its a CV carb but it just faces upside down that’s all!
Under the left side of the rear pillion plastic panel. You will see a 4pin relay that controls lights. A fuse box will be there too , 15A max.
Hearing a relay buzz is normal , usually the headlight relay is the first one to “click” , then it turns the lights on. Followed with the “fuel pump” if it has one present instead of a bigf 30A fuse box for pump use, other relays control other parts of the EFi system.
Dash = See what he says and finds out.
See this topic below , and only pay attention to the video…. This should help you verify how the dash does the “needle rpm” sweep as soon as key turns on.
Can you show me the plugs (terminal connectors) of the stator
And which ECU does this bike have ? (Sentec, Delphi, Daewoo, etc…)
When you connect the multi meter to the indicator wire= You may say 12v 0 12v 0 12v 0v in quick succession if its working , but do you get any “pulsing” voltages at all ?
The harness of the bike must be the one to actually send power down the lines in the first place before the bulb flashes ?
If the REAR LEFT & REAR RIGHT are working = Relay is OK.
Sounds stupid, but be wise , connect 2 scrap wires from the shed to the battery and connect it to your indicator itself ?
If it flashes , it was the harness likely having a break somewhere or a kink or a rusted patch if water went under the airbox
Hey,
Can you take pictures of your current ECU that is next to the battery so we can see what model the bike is (older ECU won’t store a code)
Also look at the Right Switch Gear == Turn the big red kill switch button towards the FRONT tyre (activated) ^ ^ ^ – does the Fi light come on?
If not, turn the key on and off a few times (3-5 times in quick succession) = does the red FI light come on?
Also if possible , remove the right kill switch unit – open it, look for any rusty contacts inside and the connector plug at the other end joining the main bike harness
The EFi ECU is very reliant on the right switch gear having the big red button (kill switch) working , as it will just kill everything (no pump, no sparks , etc, if it doesn’t sense the right switch gear properly)
We don’t know if the bike has ever seen abuse from its previous owner or adverse weather has allowed water in to the plugs = so inspect the harness for anything suspicious and use “contact” cleaner to clean every single connector you can find on the bike.
It is a tedious task i know but if we can be sure the harness is good , it will save you a long headache further down the road.
I hope the ECU isn’t toast , what happend to the bike previously ?
Try to follow what he says in this video and make sure you have the service manual next to you because just like anyone on the internet, always trust Korea first with their service manual to double confirm things
Here it is and see what happens and update us
If you go to the clutch side cover , there is a “CAP” there to fill oil,
I would recommend going to the “Manuals” section of this website’s forum portal and download the 650cc manuals and get the GV650 one.
It goes in to detail of the ins and outs of your machine, so you have a better idea of what to do in terms of basic maintenance.
It uses 10w40 oil , about 3.2L-3.5L of it. You fill the oil via the clutch side filler cap
I would open the clutch to make sure the whole clutch system is OK including the bearing
Then re-adjust the clutch cable to allow a little bit of freeplay before the cable pulls the clutch
Then check the “shifter assembly” near the foot peg
Put the bike on the “LIFT” or bike stand (whichever suits you) i find that lifts work best for low slung cruisers rather than paddock stands
Spin the rear wheel in neutral and have someone else squeeze the clutch in, and try to ask them to squeeze in (shift up) , let go , squeeze in (shift up again) etc
You will know if it is a gearbox problem at that point
We will know once the ECU arrives but the ECU needs to trigger the red light on the dash and the kill switch is required by the ECU to sense it , before it sends sparks & fuel (See how these parts are all interlinked)
Sure you can get your dash fixed, if its worth a shot.
What he said and make sure to follow the RED wire , it is what actually activates the LCD middle display , and rev counter = check coils , stator and the yellow/black wire (usually) for the dash unit to read RPM signals coming from the aformentioned parts i just mentioned.
That’s just odd , if the ECU was dead the dash would show a steady FI light with the dash saying “CHE” on the LCD glass (or if the user has pressed the kill switch button towards the front tyre)
Red FI light on Delphi ECU’s disappear after the bike runs (provided there is no errors while running)You said 2 plug ecu , so i am assuming it is a Delphi one. Daewoo ECU’s don’t really store information, so procedure might be a little different.
Though , you could try to buy a spare working dash locally where you live , just make sure the donor bike had the same ECU as you did. (Or even buy a spare harness!)
