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Welcome!
I’m a little jealous because i wanted one for years as as little fun go around (though they are chunky in size) , I have the RT version so that’s okay for me in the rural fields where we are in the north west UK lol.
I’d be keen to follow this, so have a project journal set up on the forum 😉
Funny , I just had to do a custom 520 chain kit order for a customer today because he couldn’t find a 46T 428 sprocket that’s unique to the RX SM / XRX SM models you have there , i said scrap the 428s because they don’t last long anyway, so he will probably login to the forum in a week or so to leave feedback on the big 520 conversion upgrade. He wanted to go a little faster too.
Welcome!
We have a few Koreans on the forum, one of them was helping us test many mods on this shop 🙂 , he has a GV300S now. You might meet him where you are by random chance haha.
The early 2005 GV models and ALL OF THEM until 2020, replace these parts right away:
- Regulator. It burns too much. Outsourced part, so Hyosung doesn’t make them
Check these parts (caution)
- Fuel Gauge – Check the sender inside the tank, sometimes it gets sticky
- Fuel Gauge DISPLAY – If the sender is working, check front of bike MPH/KMH gauge to make sure the “fuel level” sensor is 0 (zero) when bike is switched off and if the tank is half full, the needle will be about half full, this confirms everything is working.
- Spark Plug HT Caps = Use NGK ones , because the OEM black ones fail due to heat or sparks also leak! , we use NGK caps like you see in our store and do not worry about it.
- If possible, strip the bike down => Use “ACF50” (only this bottle) => Inside EVERY “connector” you see on the bike, this will help stop connector pins for various electrics from rotting due to harsh winters , rain , oxidizations etc…
(Hyosung started using waterproof connectors on GV300S models, as they were aware of it)
If you want to hide more plugs from weather exposure => Get “SUZUKI HARNESS BOOT” , it hides your plugs/connectors all over the bike (Hyosung uses them , but not enough!!)
Good electric parts
- Stator , if it is black then it is OEM, it lasts a good long time with a good upgraded regulator but you must test it to verify it isn’t “over supplying voltages” or “wires do not have too much resistance”
- Dashboard works well most of the time, as long as it is not cracked or damaged , then no water will ruin the circuits but check for rust under the dashboard!
Regulator is the most important upgrade. And do NOT use Aliexpress versions, they are much worse than Korea made version. Do not worry, older Honda CBR also has regulator problems , even old suzuki bikes used to melt their connectors for regulators!
Welcome to the club @jprei , be sure to make a new topic to introduce her with some pictures and ride safe this summer.
You can always buy the 2007 version from skidmarx but it will require a lot of cutting to fit and might be messy unless your local fabricator can make a nice retrofit job of it!
The same Skidmarx company makes the tasty huggers for our bikes (thankfully it fits all years of GT bikes)
Good luck
Have you tried WhyGoStock company in USA? They are a hyosung dealer who may be quicker. I sell stators but i have yet to find an upgrade version due to strange connectors Hyosungs. Although ill be doing a regulator upgrade for it shortly as the OEM regulators are hot fire hazards.
Any stators i get for the GD usually comes with a flywheel that cant be separated in the bundle.
No other Hyosung works but you can use the Naked sister’s parts yes since R & N models share the same engine & ecu
They don’t exist , so you will either need a random bike such as big Yamahas (don’t quote me on this as haven’t tried it personally) or preferably , get someone who does seat cowls for a living and give him your old seat to see if he can copy it and make a slimmer delete version.
Regards
PS. SKidmarx UK makes them for 2007 models , they refuse to make 2016 versions.
Hey,
Have you grabbed the service manual on this forum , to learn how to trick the ECU to giving out the error code ?
Assuming everything is “all hyosung” inside the bike, the dash will say CHE meaning KillSwitch Red Button is active OR ECU isn’t responding OR ECU can’t read the harness to start running the motor.
You said it ran , but what changed if its not running now ?
Turn the key on/off 3 times , and the error code must come up – Tell us what it says or count blinks from Fi light.
Eg. 10 blinks _pause_2 blinks_pause 4 blinks ===> That’s 10-2-4 error code.
There is also service manuals on this forum for every 650cc bike i can possibly find, uploaded there also.
Welcome to the site!
Post a picture of her and make a new journal topic , it would be interesting to see how you will restore her 🙂
Hi Tha k you so much for the response and sorry it took so long for me to get back to you. My bike has since broken and am now looking for a new engine 😥
What’s broken ? Is there a way to save it buy a way or rebuilds ?
Where is the best place to get upgraded jets from?
EBC UK makes em or KeyStar Japan , I may have some in stock (as i keep a few for GT customers upgrading to K&N filters) , send an email. Or any ask any local hyosung dealer such as TNorthEast (one word) online as they are one of the oldest dealers still doing hyo parts, ring them for jets.

Good to see it out in the sun, hope you have been putting as much “sunshine” miles as you can on her, winter is coming!
It’s okay, i will find a way to simplify this site even more so there is less things to click around!
Here you go:
Regards
Send us an email using “Contact” at the bottom of the site , no problem.
Ciao sì spediamo in Italia senza problemi, abbiamo molti clienti su questo sito dall’UE. Inviaci un’e-mail qui sotto e se possibile inviala in inglese, per favore, poiché alcuni membri del nostro team non capiscono l’italiano (stiamo imparando!) Grazie e benvenuti sul sito. (Scusate per aver utilizzato Google Translate)
👇⬇
The recommended jetting is 90 and 92.5 for the 125cc , same goes even for the leovince twin custom pipes made in italy too. Pilot Jets = They stay the same forever.
Go in tutorial section and look for these tutorials
- Slide Mod (good mod)
- How to remove the intake pipes (very delicate rare parts now!)
- How to remove the airbox off the bike a proper way
- Carb Jetting
Regards
You may just have air in the rear brake hoses that go to the “middle cbs box” that links both front and rear brakes. You may have to bleed the whole system
OR , pump the rear brake only with a bleed kit from amazon until the air comes out. then close the bleed nipples, pump the brakes a few times until you see pistons move on the rear one ,
If pistons move half way out, push them back in by hand, you will hear a “hiss” (faint hiss) possibly inside the master cylinder confirming air has been exhausted back (reverse bleeding if you will!
Hope this makes sense
Yes about 1-2hp & Hyosung’s exhausts weigh an absolute ton! – Your bike will roll a tiny bit faster with less weight (maybe 5kgs saving) , less strain on the clutch too.
Oh, I failed to mention that the dash is intermittently showing FI along with the red FI light. Its intermittent and not permanent. Goes away when the bike is shut off but starts again when moving. I believe its caused by the faulty speed sensor?
Can you get an error code out of the ECU ?
Leovince = Fantastic sound! , maybe 1hp boost on engine with baffles inside. It “MUST” have baffles, as 125s always perform better with baffles in.
Sprockets = Your rear is 38T and 12T front = Max speed “theoriticallly” is 110mph, so no way you will never exceed the kit we sent you.
Focus more on beefing the clutch as old clutch wears down , newer plates and newer springs will restore some of the lost torque it had before.
Torque matters more than actual top speed.
Air Filter is also used on GV250, it flows enough air for a 125cc 😉
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