Description
The original factory brake pad pin is made from a soft mild steel compound, which makes it highly prone to snapping or seizing solid due to constant rain water, winter salt crusts, and general grit mud. When that metal expands and rusts, carrying out a routine brake service becomes a total nightmare. Our custom stainless steel alternative is a complete lifetime upgrade built right here in the UK to handle all-season riding. It provides a mirror-smooth surface for your brake backings, allowing the blocks to slide cleanly for more uniform pad wear.
💎 Why Stainless Beats Factory Steel
| Rust-Proof ConstructionFormed from high-grade solid stainless alloy that stays completely bright and free from scaling. | Deep Reinforced Allen SocketThe tougher hex head profile accepts your tools securely to stop the internal socket corners from chewing out. |
| Polished Guide BarrelReduces mechanical friction drag so your brake pads drop back quickly when you release the lever handle. | Fit-And-Forget AssetA cheap, simple hardware switch that ensures you can carry out future pad changes effortlessly. |
📜 Confirmed Fitment Guide
Confirmed Caliper Matches: Fits the newer liquid-cooled modern bobber generations:
- Hyosung GV125-S EFi (Aquila / Bobber): Fits all modern overhead cam, water-cooled V-Twin models running electronic fuel injection from 2019 onwards.
Don’t forget the tiny grub screw that locks this pin in place! Upgrade that to matching stainless/titanium to prevent seized threads. View Retaining Grub Screw Here.
🔧 Install Tips
- Apply Anti-Seize Cautiously: Always smear a very tiny, sparse layer of high-temperature copper paste directly onto the flat shaft barrel of the pin before feeding it through the pad loops. This keeps the parts moving cleanly and ensures an effortless pull later. Keep grease away from the brake pad faces!
- Observe Torque Values: Gently wind the new pin into the caliper threads until it seats home firmly—recommended torque limits sit around 13–16Nm. The external locking grub screw is what keeps it fixed from spinning loose, not massive muscle tightness.
- Check for Uneven Lining Wear: Take a look across your old friction pad blocks while the retaining bolt is out of the housing. If one backing plate is drastically thinner than its partner, it usually points to a binding caliper sliding pin or a sluggish internal piston seal that needs a flush.
If your original mild steel pin has already chewed out or For complete step-by-step caliper service manuals, fluid bleeding guides, or mechanical club tips, head to the forums.


























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