♠️ M77
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I must stress, before fitting a new stator , get a BEEFY regulator. Like the one you see on the store above ^
NO aliexpress , No Korea OEM regulators = these things are usually so bad its the #2 cause of all electric problems on the bike and plus some of them allow the battery to charge to 16v and fry the loom. Not worth the risk.
Just a shout!
Sounds like a faulty stator unit, because if the CDI can’t sense it, it won’t send any sparks to the coils itself.
Did you also measure primary & secondary resistance of the ignition coils fella ?
Also if you can, remove the “HT CAP” thats on the coil itself. Then put your meter to 20,000 ohms.
Measure the HT cap on its own, tell us the resistance. The black caps are common to fail the sparks due to heat damage after a long while in the bike, since down the plug hole gets very hot. Though I would normally suggest to just upgrade to the heat resistant rubber NGK caps (NOT PLASTIC ones , they will crack!) , but if the black caps are OK , then go on amazon and look for “MAGNECOR HT WIRE” , these HT wires are great for maintain a consistant connection between the CAP and the Ignition Coil itself.
Cap/Cable -> 10.3 kOhm
Primary -> 0.6 Ohm
Secondary -> 6.7 kOhmCoil is OK
Cap is at the limit (10K is about the limit for these OEM caps) , the NGK ones you see at the shop are recommended!Idle Speed Delete = I’d exercise caution because it does engage slightly when rider leaves throttle to change gears to keep the engine “momentum” going, but if it rides OK, then keep an eye and make sure the ECU doesn’t get annoyed later on (putting more tax on it to regulate the EFi system properly)
Buy a spare ECU just incase!
Getting a fresh idle speed controller is a good idea.
Because it occasionally dies = Does it die when riding ? or just stalls when you come to the traffic lights? Does it fire up right away ?
I may suspect something else is failing when it gets up to too much “heat”
Can’t get through on email. Tried other means but not available
We will find you now. Check your FB messenger.
Sorry mate, sick of giving”mechanics” money for nothing. Have no idea of psi. Bike worked fine until one of said “mechanics” totally screwed my carbs up. Can you quote me pickup/drop off (Ashford Kent) and sort my bike out please Much appreciated Barry
The bike is going nowhere UNTIL it is fixed, we’re different. We even have a spare carb on the shelf in immaculate condition as a “test bunny” to prove if its the engine that needs attention rather than a carb. Sorry for the delay today, we had to collect a bike today!
Please click “Contact” below to discuss what we can do with yours ?
I will be awaiting your email 👍
Same issue, after it sat trough the Winter, no rear breaks, no stoplight when breaking with the pedal. I drained all the fluid from the rear system, topped it off, bled the breaks front and rear (for the front caliper its the lower one), topped it of again and it works perfect.
Thanks for sharing. Good to hear you still got her 🙂 Take good care of it!
Hopefully looking for someone to rebuild my carbs and sync them for me
If you would like , send us a message via email ? If distance is an issue for the bike transport, we collect and drop off but… you can also just simply post the carbs to us on their own.
Can you at least be 100% certain, the engine is compressing 150 psi each on each cylinder after its warmed up?
Take plugs out (both of them)
Full throttle
Crank bike for 5 seconds
Tell us compression for each cylinder, a mech can do it easy just by lifting tank off only and removing rear plugs and the front can be done when the oil cooler is lowered from its mounting. No need to remove carbs or airbox
I have personally had to fix and sync up a whole carb for someone but he had to rebuild the engine due to low cylinder on the rear as the bike was being difficult to start sometimes and would occassionally run weak on the road , then lose a cylinder eventually.
You said you feel “grinding” is that the gearbox ?
Have you had any chance to strip the clutch and check the plates , then re-adjust the cable or replace the clutch springs if they are heat fatigued.
Also while it is idling , squeeze in clutch lever and squeeze out ==> Does the sound change ? That’s your THRUST bearing inside the clutch, easy to replace but may also mean wobbly basket , so check plates + springs , even the metal discs should be “flat” on a glass table to check for “warping” / little slight bends
If not, check your wheel pulley (if still using Belt Drive on the wheels), front pulley may rattle slightly if the “locking” washer is loosing its teeth on the gearbox shaft splines (where your pulley sits on)
Check the back wheel pulley and rear wheel “HUB” bearing (just the hub itself, after a while it will grind and use KOYO bearing)
As for electronics = Did the replacement 2011 motor come with its own stator and throttle bodies ? And is there any chance the TPS sensor & ISCV (idle speed controller) needs checking again ? (Idle is controlled automatically based on TPS and the ISCV unit, but MAF & AIP & ET sensors also come in to play
ISCV unit = It’s got a plug going in to it and has either 3 or 4 hoses sucking filtered air from the airbox and feeding it to your throttle bodies when throttle is shut (rider is not riding, bike is in neutral)
Also disconnect it and tell us if it cuts off or screams higher ?
Hmmm,
Do you by any chance have the “OEM” relay and all 4x OEM indicators if possible ? That way , you want to be sure that if the bike stays solid (no flashing), it would mean a faulty harness (I hope not) or a very sticky / faulty switch gear (If you flick left to indicate , the STALK bounces back but inside the contacts may still be sticking!)
This way we can be sure it wasn’t because the bike isn’t feeling the combination of the LED’s and LED relays (some are hit and miss in fairness)
Usually it helps massively to:
– Strip her down nicely , find every single plug on the bike (time consuming i know but it will love you for it) , disconnect every plug.
– Use Halfords Contact Cleaner , to clean out the dirt, rust , metal oxidization (does affect how smooth the bike runs overall due to improve signals after cleaning
_ Give it a good day to dry properly even moisture that you can’t see with a naked eye may still be present.
_ Once fully dry
_ Get a can of “ACF50” (NO WD40 please, unless you want fire) ===> Squirt only a tear drop of ACF50 inside every single connector on the bike.Once done, grab some zip ties just incase, tidy along the frame so that the bike does not get its wire-connectors attacked by rain or water all the time
Bonus points of you can get 3x of these on ebay
(1 = Under Airbox! 2= Left side protecting your LH switch gear plug it still gets exposed) 3= Rear Shock Absorber (protect the stator plugs there and also the brake switch)SUZUKI HARNESS BOOT (that’s its official name and you will find them on ebay or amazon sold by SUZUKI UK Official)
Now you almost can be at ease. Just a shout. Can’t get an 08 harness anymore brand new , Korea stopped making them (they moved on to the GV125-S EFi now) , preserve your GT while you can. This country’s weather doesn’t like bikes!
If they blink at the front , it means you likely need to check bulbs 1st before needing a relay or at least confirm 12v is actually going to those lines ?
Suncoast Cycle Sports USA will have the relay if you call them.
@marcel, ive just fitted some gt650 black forks to my gv650, I have the siler/grey calipers but can’t get them to bleed up…is this something yo do with the forks being different and therefore the pistons in the caliper aren’t reaching the disc, strange question I know lol, you mention sticking with TCTC calipers with grey forks and black with black. Cheers J
Are you able to post a picture of the forks (black ones) please so we see the botton legs so i know if they are truly meant for black calipers or not
I do know GT250R uses black forks and still uses TCTC grey calipers but 650’s need to be specific, as that’s the only CC class where hyosung changed the front calipers
Yes it is. So its nothing to be worried about. Thank you. One more thing i just noticed maybe its a common issue. The rear blinkers dont work but the front one does? Could it be a fuse? Or should i look for something else that is causing that problem.
Have a look at the connectors and verify there is pulsing 12v going there or replace the bulbs inside the OEM indicators (assumed OEM , as you did not say if they are LED aftermarkets)
Indicators use a 3Pin Relay.
The coils are retrograding , if sparks came out (arc’ing) , replace either SV99 or GT650 pre-2010 coils (same coil maker) and replace the caps as a good measure. Readings may be OK but may be arc’ing when running. SV99 caps should fit OK or another set of OEM hyosung caps for now. However “magnecor” HT wires are recommended over the stock black HT wires.
Pulse sensors are not normally changed on their own , and can be a messy process if not sure how to do it without cutting and chopping wires up , there should be loads of posts online about 650’s burning the stator plugs when the connectors have rust in them (resistance goes up!) Clean the connectors as best as you can and try to avoid the rear tyre thrown stones or water at them.
Go on ebay and type in “SUZUKI HARNESS BOOT” , this MUST be used to hide plugs under the airbox and near the rear shock. I do this on all my hyos and customer ones (rains a lot in UK!)
Hyosung used one boot for the headlight (55 watts down those plugs!) , so you will have seen it.
Hmm when did they leave Australia Hyosung themselves and can you ask your dealer why they pulled out ? I get a lot of orders to AU as I noticed due to other scam sites popping pretending to be Hyosung AU when they are really not.
Starter Solenoid = It’s common, the 650 draws a lot from it to start, and eventually the internal parts of the solenoid refuse to lift up to trigger battery power down to the starter motor, hence click click but again , investigate the starter motor => remove it and connect it directly to battery and see if it spins healthy
Battery out of the bike and do it far away cause it can cause sparks touching the starter motor body – Wear electric gloves and eye wear. believe me.
Then drain oil and be sure your sprag system is OK behind the flywheel (sometimes if the sprag-clutch is on the way out, it causes more tax on the starter motor and the solenoid to spin the crank)
0.8 on yellow wires ice cold is fine on the stator = It’s just charging purposes , has no effect on how much the bike can spark. It is the blue/green wires from the pulse sensor. That little black box alone can go haywire at any time causing a whole stator needing replacement again. Keep in mind Delphi stators not backwards compatible, so hope your last owners made sure it was a pre-2010 stator.
Regulator = Only voltage is needed , but if it is a genuine Shingden regulator, you shouldn’t worry too much about it as long as it is above 13.6 – 14v to charge (even at idle) but max of 14.6v (any higher will fry the EFi parts as ECU has very small micro chips in it)
Your picture = Early EFi model (2008-2010 range), you likely have a Mitsubishi ECU (Hence Mitsubishi coil too) or DENKO Japan but either way it will say “made in Japan” unless it says DAEWOO KOREA on it (Daewoo Korea will be fine on that big Mitsubishi coil)
Such a beautiful colour. If its a GT or GV, that cherry red is probably the best colour. Don’t respray it lol.
Welcome to the club! – You did very well keeping her for almost 10yrs , let that be evidence to nay-sayers that assume our bikes last 2 months and die (they usually the types to race the bikes to their early death, can’t take such people serious!)
You’re not alone, we may be in EU but Australia is like the 3rd biggest source of visitors to this site!
The regulator look like we posted it to him, did he buy it from us or someplace else ? Electrosport is OK for stators.
But like with any brand , the stators can still die (the pulse sensor itself) could just have been one of the rare bad batches made , it happens.
Coils = Thousands are made every day from many outsourcing companies for Suzuki & Hyosung.
Go on your own local ebay and get “SV650 1999” (that year only) GENUINE coil, it will have a triangle logo on it and it is the SAME coil used on Hyosung GT650 early models. Mitsubishi Japan is the company that made identical coils for SV650 and GT650 , SV650 is just a more common bike. Make sure the seller can verify readings.
If not, OEM Korea would be best (but then again Hyosung themselves get those coils from Mitsubishi Japan, it’s the same coil)
There is A LOT of bad clones of those coils made from china sweatshops , so you will either have a good one or bad one (or a good one that gets haywire after a while just like the “netrider AU” forum post was saying)
I’d advise:
– Get Genuine 1999 SV650 or GT650 coils that are verified working, they will last a long time as long as the bike or the rain/water doesn’t iritate them– Go to Amazon and get MAGNECOR “HT WIRES” (they are very good)
– Caps , try the OEM SV ones but your current caps seem OK. Just as long as they are not visually cracked or showing signs of “heat fatigue” which kills them too (The hole is deep and it gets very hot there)
– Fresh CR8E plugs again (I know, I know, but if you have sparking issues , the plugs will get shot again, they need a stable 10,000V coming from the ignition system)
– Get that starter relay solenoid and CHECK your flywheel ==> Go behind and make sure there is no odd damage (if the bike tries to start and you hear “thud thud” , investigate the whole sprag-clutch system behind the flywheel or you may have a hydrolock in the engine , change oil and fix the carb (jammed floats or float-seats leaking fuel past their own internal seal causing fuel to slowly drip out of the carb in to the cylinders)
Around 22,000 ohms is generally what hyosung wants at the HT point , the “terminals/lead pins” should be very very low (4 ohms ish is about the sweet spot)
Send me a private email below:
me and my bike club are working to fix it but as i am only able to get parts form them, themselfs it gets a bit pricey but i have found the same engine on ebay thats only done 600 miles and got it for £200 so i am going to put that enigne in and most likey use the old engine as parts for the new one.
You got this!
New stator will be needed now and regulator in tandem (all part of the ignition system as is the frame mounted coils)
Do you have a picture of your current coil? (i will tell you if you’re OK based on the picture of the coil) but with the weird running issues apart from the fixed injectors, the ignition parts may be your next enemies (coil may work then acts intermitently once you ride for a little bit, no way to measure it while riding if its flactuating)
I can attest to the fact that I had fixed customer bikes with OEM stators intact but damn , they starting causing all kinds of issues once the bike ran up to temps (yes its charging but the pickup coil was making a mess of the ECU and ignition coils)
Also consider Shingden upgrade (DO NOT buy an OEM or Aliexpress regulator, you will regret it very quickly! , many riders online can attest to this fact) , something simlar to this below will set you for life.
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier & Stator Generator – GV650 GT650 Hyosung {Carby & EFi up to 2013}
