Hi from Australia
- This topic has 14 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 2 weeks ago by .
-
Posts
-
-
Bike Model = : GV650C
Hi, Im Nick from Australia and this is my 2014 GV650C Classic.
I have had it since brand new in 2014, it has done about 32,000km, and has been pretty good, except for broken radiators. I have recently replaced the radiator with an aftermarket one.
Recently I found the fuel tank has rusted a bit, so that needs fixing. Otherwise it runs good.
-
Such a beautiful colour. If its a GT or GV, that cherry red is probably the best colour. Don’t respray it lol.
Welcome to the club! – You did very well keeping her for almost 10yrs , let that be evidence to nay-sayers that assume our bikes last 2 months and die (they usually the types to race the bikes to their early death, can’t take such people serious!)
You’re not alone, we may be in EU but Australia is like the 3rd biggest source of visitors to this site!
-
Definitely wont be respraying it, i agree it was the best colour.
My bike has actually taken a fair bit of (arguable) abuse. It has been ridden hard and fast on lots of rough gravel and dirt roads, and handled it beautifully. The only relevant issues I have had there are fork seals needed replacing, and also the dirt wore out the pully teeth and belt.
I was fortunate that I live local to a fantastic Hyosung dealer who look after their customers well, so despite not being overly mechanically minded, I have had the backing of them. It would appear that many of the other dealers are shockers. Hyosung have pulled out of Australia, however my dealership still look after Hyosung bikes and have some parts in stock.
-
-
It was years ago, I dont know, 5+ years ago. They were imported into Australia by i think PS importers, it wasn’t Hyosung direct, and PS Importers pulled the pin. Not sure why.
About 2018 by the looks of it https://www.bikesales.com.au/editorial/details/the-end-of-the-road-for-hyosung-112328/
-
G’day Nick1. Nice bike. Love that colour. What is the name of the Dealership you use? It is good they still help you. I can only buy parts from HyosungAU.
No dealer here will even look at my bike. They won’t help with simple questions & they hold Hyosungs in such little regard, it makes me want to break-in to their shop at night & wheel some stuff out. I buy parts from HyosungAU mostly & they are ok. Got a couple of wrong parts but they refunded me.
I’d love a dealer & a mechanic to look at it when i can’t be bothered. It’s been hot here.
https://www.hyosungpartsau.com/ (Genuine parts to your door)The rust in the tank is easy to fix. My GT250R also had rust. I’m yet to fix it as there are more important issues with the bike,
like NO FRONT BRAKES. Just fixed that; riding is much more fun when you can stop the bike. I will do a photo tutorial of rust removal someday.
Take the tank off, empty the fuel out & temporarily SEAL-UP any place the fuel can drain out from under tank, (fuel petcock).
Pour a mixture of water (i’ll use distilled/demineralised water) & a pH Increaser (used for swimming pools) into the tank;
fill it to the near the top of your fuel cap hole. Then connect a BATTERY, like a car battery, to the tank & to a piece of metal like a big allen key or steel rod,
(that is small enough to fit INSIDE the tank WITHOUT TOUCHING the metal of the tank). You suspend this allen key in non-conducting material,
over the fuel cap hole, so the metal is touching the solution isnide the tank but not the tank itself, (will advise on postive & negative location, i can’t recall).
Once the battery is connected correctly, current will flow through the solution in the tank & ALL THE RUST will leave the WALLS of the TANK
& attach itself to the sacrificial allen key or steel rod that is inserted into the fuel tank.If your rust is heavy it may take all night & a reapeat with clean solution & maybe a fresh allen key.
If your rust is not that bad this process will only take 2 hours to 3 hours i think.
To keep the car battery from running flat, connect a battery charger to the battery for the duration of the process.
CAUTION! Don’t leave this running without checking on it. The solution starts to bubble & there will be movement in the solution.
The biggest danger is the metal rod or Allen Key touching the metal of the tank, which will spark & make the fuel tank live.
So you can get a zap from it. Good idea to KEEP MONITIORING IT & to DISCONNECT the NEGATIVE LEAD from the battery before you touch the tank.-----LaserBeam---->
-
G’day Nick1. Nice bike. Love that colour. What is the name of the Dealership you use? It is good they still help you. I can only buy parts from HyosungAU. No dealer here will even look at my bike. They won’t help with simple questions & they hold Hyosungs in such little regard, it makes me want to break-in to their shop at night & wheel some stuff out. I buy parts from HyosungAU mostly & they are ok. Got a couple of wrong parts but they refunded me. I’d love a dealer & a mechanic to look at it when i can’t be bothered. It’s been hot here. https://www.hyosungpartsau.com/ (Genuine parts to your door) The rust in the tank is easy to fix. My GT250R also had rust. I’m yet to fix it as there are more important issues with the bike, like NO FRONT BRAKES. Just fixed that; riding is much more fun when you can stop the bike. I will do a photo tutorial of rust removal someday. Take the tank off, empty the fuel out & temporarily SEAL-UP any place the fuel can drain out from under tank, (fuel petcock). Pour a mixture of water (i’ll use distilled/demineralised water) & a pH Increaser (used for swimming pools) into the tank; fill it to the near the top of your fuel cap hole. Then connect a BATTERY, like a car battery, to the tank & to a piece of metal like a big allen key or steel rod, (that is small enough to fit INSIDE the tank WITHOUT TOUCHING the metal of the tank). You suspend this allen key in non-conducting material, over the fuel cap hole, so the metal is touching the solution isnide the tank but not the tank itself, (will advise on postive & negative location, i can’t recall). Once the battery is connected correctly, current will flow through the solution in the tank & ALL THE RUST will leave the WALLS of the TANK & attach itself to the sacrificial allen key or steel rod that is inserted into the fuel tank. If your rust is heavy it may take all night & a reapeat with clean solution & maybe a fresh allen key. If your rust is not that bad this process will only take 2 hours to 3 hours i think. To keep the car battery from running flat, connect a battery charger to the battery for the duration of the process. CAUTION! Don’t leave this running without checking on it. The solution starts to bubble & there will be movement in the solution. The biggest danger is the metal rod or Allen Key touching the metal of the tank, which will spark & make the fuel tank live. So you can get a zap from it. Good idea to KEEP MONITIORING IT & to DISCONNECT the NEGATIVE LEAD from the battery before you touch the tank.
Thanks Laserbeam, I use Les Penna Motorcycles in Bendigo, Victoria.
I will give this a go, thanks for the info.
-
Electrolysis works really well for rust removal. For sure check out some videos of the process on YouTube, it will make it easier to understand. Once finished, tip out the solution & rinse the tank out with a bit of unleaded or diesel. Slosh that around so it COATS the ENTIRE INSIDE with fuel & tip it upside down and slosh it around as you pour it out again. This will coat the walls & prevent it from insta-rusting … think they call it flash rust, where the newly cleaned metal starts to oxidise instantly. The oil in the diesel or unleaded will coat the metal and protect it a bit. Can rinse tank with distilled water then rinse with fuel. Should be ok to just rinse it with fuel a couple of times.
-----LaserBeam---->
-
Electrolysis works really well for rust removal. For sure check out some videos of the process on YouTube, it will make it easier to understand. Once finished, tip out the solution & rinse the tank out with a bit of unleaded or diesel. Slosh that around so it COATS the ENTIRE INSIDE with fuel & tip it upside down and slosh it around as you pour it out again. This will coat the walls & prevent it from insta-rusting … think they call it flash rust, where the newly cleaned metal starts to oxidise instantly. The oil in the diesel or unleaded will coat the metal and protect it a bit. Can rinse tank with distilled water then rinse with fuel. Should be ok to just rinse it with fuel a couple of times.
I have done the electrolysis recently.
The tank is quite difficult to empty in that there is no clear access into the main tank area from either the fuel filler or from the fuel pump opening. Does anyone have any pointers how to best empty the tank? My mechanic suggested a bit of metho would help to remove the fuel. So I thought I might try tipping in a litre of that into the empty tank, slosh it around, tip out as best I can, then fill with unleaded and add a smaller amount of metho, then run the bike. I haven’t done this yet though.
After tipping the electrolysis mixture out as best I could, I sloshed some diesel around in it, and tipped it out.
There was a lot of black sludge still throughout the tank. So I then tipped 2 litres of white vinegar into it and shook it well. Then I tipped it out, and the vinegar was black.
Then I put some water in it, and shook it well, and tipped the water out. Also black. I repeated this about 7-10 times until the water was coming out reasonably clean.
Unfortunately all through this, there is also small bits of rusty metal coming out with the water.
Do you have any suggestions on how to proceed from here? I could try the electrolysis again, but I think the rust is just trapped in the main tank area, and its difficult to tip it out.
Thanks
-
Hi, Nick. You’ve done well. I had same issue. The tanks shape will not allow you to empty the tank completely through the filler hole. I kept FLUSHING with demineralized water, shaking it around, tipping it out & shaking tank up & down. Black pieces of metal were coming out. I didn’t get rid of them all. Tried to get them with a magnet but it’s a pain. Best way to empty tank is to remove the fuel level sender or the fuel pump & the fuel should dump easily. PROBLEM with that is trying to SEAL the tank again so it doesn’t leak. I DIDN’T want to risk it.
After shaking the water & metal bits out i sprayed WD40 inside the fuel tank. Works well. It makes MUCH of the last bit of water come out easier & anti-rusts at the same time. Shake the tank again with the WD40 or CRC then tip out. Repeat this process 4 times or more until the wetness in the tank is mostly WD40 not water. The last step was pouring UNLEADED FUEL into tank & shaking it, draining it & repeating the process until i was happy with the look & smell of the liquid coming out.
KEEP the TANK FULL of PETROL straight after FLUSH process & try to keep it that way always. Or the rust slowly comes back. Some people COAT the inside of tank with Nitrocellulose SURFACE PRIMER but it’s PAINTING & drying the inside of tank & spending more time & money. I didn’t want to. You don’t need to.
I didn’t use deisel fuel to FLUSH the tank, although it may seal surface better. Would need even more unleaded to flush that out. Wasteful.
I DIDN’T DRY the TANK. Just FLUSH with Demin. water, then WD40, then unleaded, is ok. My bike has been running nicely & removing the rust gives peace of mind. The big bits i couldn’t get out are too big to get passed the fuel filter or into my Carbies. I will probably do this process again to get them … one day.
I’ve got lots of photos for you all but the site won’t let me post them. Not even GUIDE to posting pics is working for me. I’ll upload them for you when it works again.
Keep pouring water & WD40 in until you’re happy with the amount of black bits you’ve removed. I hold the TANK, upside down, with my forearms on my legs, then i shake the tank & ROCK IT left & right at the same time. Keep doing it until your happy. Shake, shake shake, bro.
NOTE: REMOVE the FUEL TANK CAP completely with ALLEN KEY to allow more fluid to leave the tank more easily. If you leave the CAP on, it will get in the way & make the emptying process more messy & slower.
-----LaserBeam---->
-
The tanks shape will not allow you to empty the tank completely through the filler hole. I kept FLUSHING with demineralized water, shaking it around, tipping it out & shaking tank up & down. Black pieces of metal were coming out. I didn’t get rid of them all. Tried to get them with a magnet but it’s a pain. Best way to empty tank is to remove the fuel level sender or the fuel pump & the fuel should dump easily. PROBLEM with that is trying to SEAL the tank again so it doesn’t leak. I DIDN’T want to risk it.
After shaking the water & metal bits out i sprayed WD40 inside the fuel tank. Works well. It makes MUCH of the last bit of water come out easier & anti-rusts at the same time. Shake the tank again with the WD40 or CRC then tip out. Repeat this process 4 times or more until the wetness in the tank is mostly WD40 not water. The last step was pouring UNLEADED FUEL into tank & shaking it, draining it & repeating the process until i was happy with the look & smell of the liquid coming out.
KEEP the TANK FULL of PETROL straight after FLUSH process & try to keep it that way always. Or the rust slowly comes back. Some people COAT the inside of tank with Nitrocellulose SURFACE PRIMER but it’s PAINTING & drying the inside of tank & spending more time & money. I didn’t want to. You don’t need to.
I didn’t use deisel fuel to FLUSH the tank, although it may seal surface better. Would need even more unleaded to flush that out. Wasteful.
I DIDN’T DRY the TANK. Just FLUSH with Demin. water, then WD40, then unleaded, is ok. My bike has been running nicely & removing the rust gives peace of mind. The big bits i couldn’t get out are too big to get passed the fuel filter or into my Carbies. I will probably do this process again to get them … one day
Keep pouring water & WD40 in until you’re happy with the amount of black bits you’ve removed. I hold the TANK, upside down, with my forearms on my legs, then i shake the tank & ROCK IT left & right at the same time. Keep doing it until your happy. Shake, shake shake, bro.
NOTE: REMOVE the FUEL TANK CAP completely with ALLEN KEY to allow more fluid to leave the tank more easily. If you leave the CAP on, it will get in the way & make the emptying process more messy & slower.
Car Battery, Jumper Leads, Battery Charger, Ph INCREASE, Demineralized Water, Steel Rod, Plastic Bottle Base, WD40, Unleaded Petrol.
Screw Steel Rod into bottom of Plastic Bottle. Connect CHARGER to power point & to battery. Fill tank with Deminerlaized Water. Add Ph-Increase to tank 250grams or more, (the amount doesn’t matter, the size of your battery determines the speed/performance of this process). Place Steel Rod into tank (tape it down if it moves). Connect POSITIVE Jumper Cable to the Steel Rod. Place NEGATIVE Jumper Cable onto the Fuel tank at the Bolt Hole (remove Rubber from bolt hole). I placed a rubber mat under tank for safety & a chopping board to RAISE the HEIGHT of TANK so there’s ROOM for Negative Lead. Place a Cardboard BOX under FRONT of TANK to LIFT IT UP & KEEP TANK LEVEL. Turn ON the Battery CHARGER & look for small bubbles in the Solution – means it working. Let it run for 8+hours. 12 hours or more is better. CHECK IT OFTEN, as batteries can explode & things can get zapped if they mess the cables.
Steel Rod should be normal steel. A.I. told me to use Stainless Steel but i think it’s wrong. It’s NEVER DONE this job so what would it know? A big steel ALLEN KEY is good. If your rod has a THREAD you can make it fit Plastic Bottle tightly. DON’T use Galvanised Steel it will produce POISON GAS.
Charger Leads, Battery Jumper Leads. RED to ROD. BLACK to Tanks BACK.
-----LaserBeam---->
-
Hi Nick,
Which part of Australia are you from? I have a same model GC 650 (2013) and am looking for a good repair shop in Perth.
I have tried to find, but most of the shops refuse to fix any issues.
I have been doing minor repairs myself and servicing .
Thanks. Terrey Gill -
Hi Terrey,
I am in North Central Victoria, so not much help to you sorry.
-
-
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.