Motor replacement GV650C

[tetarum]

Bike Model = : GV650C

Hey guys new member here hoping I posted in the right place.

 

I recent purchased a 2013 GV650C (650cc model of the ST7)

The motor was buggered rings had gone on it so I brought a motor from a wrecker came out of a 2011 GT650

 

Cut to the chase I’ve replaced the motor switched a few parts over and she fires up right away however it seems I have become an issue with the idle, it’s sounding somewhat high in the revs and there’s no idle adjustment screw that I know of with these EFI models, it’s also “bogging” in the full throttle position and when I go to click it into 1st from Neutral it goes with a fair loud grinding then “Clunk” and it rides fine. I’m thinking vacuum leak somewhere but incsse I’m missing something simple thought I’d say on here. Cheers 🤟

[♠️ MARCEL]

You said you feel “grinding”  is that the gearbox ?

Have you had any chance to strip the clutch and check the plates , then re-adjust the cable  or replace the clutch springs if they are heat fatigued.

Also while it is idling , squeeze in clutch lever and squeeze out ==> Does the sound change ?  That’s your THRUST bearing inside the clutch, easy to replace but may also mean wobbly basket  , so check plates + springs   , even the metal discs should be “flat” on a glass table to check for “warping” / little slight bends

If not,   check your wheel pulley  (if still using Belt Drive on the wheels),  front pulley may rattle slightly if the “locking” washer is loosing its teeth on the gearbox shaft splines (where your pulley sits on)

Check the back wheel pulley and rear wheel “HUB”  bearing  (just the hub itself, after a while it will grind and use KOYO bearing)

As for electronics = Did the replacement 2011 motor come with its own stator and throttle bodies ?  And is there any chance the TPS sensor  & ISCV (idle speed controller) needs checking again ?   (Idle is controlled automatically based on TPS and the  ISCV unit, but  MAF & AIP & ET sensors also come in to play

ISCV unit = It’s got a plug going in to it and has either 3 or 4 hoses sucking filtered air from the airbox and feeding it to your throttle bodies  when throttle is shut (rider is not riding, bike is in neutral)

Also disconnect it and tell us if it cuts off or screams higher ?

// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

[tetarum]

♠️ MARCEL wrote:

You said you feel “grinding” is that the gearbox ? Have you had any chance to strip the clutch and check the plates , then re-adjust the cable or replace the clutch springs if they are heat fatigued. Also while it is idling , squeeze in clutch lever and squeeze out ==> Does the sound change ? That’s your THRUST bearing inside the clutch, easy to replace but may also mean wobbly basket , so check plates + springs , even the metal discs should be “flat” on a glass table to check for “warping” / little slight bends If not, check your wheel pulley (if still using Belt Drive on the wheels), front pulley may rattle slightly if the “locking” washer is loosing its teeth on the gearbox shaft splines (where your pulley sits on) Check the back wheel pulley and rear wheel “HUB” bearing (just the hub itself, after a while it will grind and use KOYO bearing) As for electronics = Did the replacement 2011 motor come with its own stator and throttle bodies ? And is there any chance the TPS sensor & ISCV (idle speed controller) needs checking again ? (Idle is controlled automatically based on TPS and the ISCV unit, but MAF & AIP & ET sensors also come in to play ISCV unit = It’s got a plug going in to it and has either 3 or 4 hoses sucking filtered air from the airbox and feeding it to your throttle bodies when throttle is shut (rider is not riding, bike is in neutral) Also disconnect it and tell us if it cuts off or screams higher ?

Quote

 

Hey mate sorry for late reply. Haven’t had chance to check clutch plates yet will be doing that over weekend.

 

As for disconnecting ISCV yes I did that while the bike was idling and it made no difference whatsoever

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