Time for an oil change ? …One of the crucial things to stay on top of!

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This short tutorial aims to show  you how to change your oil with ease on the 125/250 twins (2001-2018) and let’s not forget the filter too!

This applies to: GV125 (01-2018) / GV250 (upto 2018) / GT & GTR 125 (03-2018) inc GT250+R too.

Personally, one of the other twins I own gets its oil changes every 1,000-1500 miles using Ester oils . I’ve been this way for almost 4-5yrs at time of this writing, the manual suggests the oil can be changed at longer intervals.  This is optimistic to say the least, so i’ll leave that there. I know too well, oil acts funny around the 1500 mark tops (gearbox, clutch, false N’s, hotter, louder).  The internet will send you down a rabbit hole,  so my opinion? Use more premium oil marked JASO MA2 , Ester is good. Change around every 1500 tops.

Moving on, let’s prepare the parts & tools first…

Oil .  Get 2x 1L Bottles   (Bike needs 1.5L total)	Oil Filter & O-Rings  (don’t skip filters!)	Drain Pan/Bucket (that can hold 3L+ of fluid.)
Torque Wrench (too crucial, you’ll see why below⏬)	Size 15/17mm Socket   (12 sided!)(NO SPANNER)	Size 10mm Socket / Driver

Plus these bits also…
Pliers | Funnel | Plastic/Rubber Gloves | Clean Rags/Cloths. | Measuring Jug

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1. Okay let’s go, Undo your filler cap first!
For stock caps – use a Pliers to open it (anti-clockwise).
For custom CNC Caps – We use either 19/21mm socket.

2. Go under engine & loosen the drain plug
For GTR owners, use a bar extension to aid you in undoing the drain bolt or  just take your fairings off. 
This tutorial was done on a Comet that’s all (& it needed a clean!😬)
⚠ Be slow to prevent this plug falling in to the bucket!

 

3. About those drain plugs…

Roads are salty, the stock plugs can’t fight off their bad rust.  A seized plug will easily round off and you’ll replace more parts in the long run (strainer cap, o ring, bolts😬).
We avoid that by using a made coloured plug that has some weather resistance to it and it’s less prone to seizures.
Plus its magnetic tips are larger to catch those metalic shavings in the oil!
You will find them sold on here….

 

4. Finished draining? Close the drain-hole!
– Clean up under your engine
– Grab your torque wrench and set it to 15ft lbs max.
– Tighten your drain-bolt until your wrench clicks once.
⛔ DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THIS BOLT.  

 

5. Go to your oil filter cover next!
– Grab 10mm socket & undo the 3 nuts that hold the small cover.
⚠ Oil WILL fall out (leftovers from filter), so place a rag/cloth under the cover and potentially a small pan too. You will see why further down.   Wear plastic/rubber gloves too.  Ditch your old filter away 🗑

 

6. Filter Cover Inspection & O Ring Change (Pt.1)

– Clean up your oil filter cover
– Check the spring is still good and not gone soft.
– Change the big o-ring   (dress it up in oil first!⛔)  

7. O-Ring Change (Part2)

This part needs some more focused attention so we don’t damage the inside hole you’re about to see.
On the picture below,  replace the o-ring that is sitting at the back inside the filter area.
⚠ Use a small hook/claw to pry it out  , don’t force it. ⚠
CHANGE THE OLD ORING TO A FRESH ONE SUPPLIED.

8. Next, your new oil filter goes in!

See the picture below? That’s exactly how it should go in.
The “hole” of your filter goes inside the engine.

 

9. Close the filter cover!
– Once the filter is in, close the cover.
– Make sure the nuts are tightened to 6 ft lbs max!
🚦 Check the new Cover O-Ring is dressed in oil (a reminder!)

 

10. Done? Grab your oil (& measuring Jug!)
– Get a measuring Jug and pour inside 1500ml of oil in there (1.5L)
  Not less, not more 😉
– No Measuring Jug ?  That’s fine, as long as your bottle has volume-markers on it too.

11. Get your Funnel and pour the oil in….
Self explanatory here.
⚠ It’s messy doing an oil change without one, so I dare not digress.

 

12. Close the oil filler cap!
Self explanatory here.
Just make sure the hole is clean and it’s o-ring isn’t damaged.

 

🚦 Complete. –  Idle for 60 seconds & turn it off!

– Start the bike and let it idle for less than a minute.⌚
– Switch it off.  Let your bike sit upright temporarily⚠
(NO PADDOCKS.  Both wheels on the ground)
– Check your sight-glass says “F” and oil level matches it.
–  ^ Is your oil higher than “F”mark ? => Drain some.⚠
– ^ Is your oil lower than “L/M” mark => Topup/Refill⛔
– Finally, Check your drain plug is good & secure. 🚦

 

   Tidy up & Go ride. 🏁

Questions? Fire away in the comments! 🤺