Simon
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Normally when a stator fails the voltage will fall as a phase has burned out, to test the stator use a multimeter & touch the wires ie 1-2, 1-3,2-3 you should if it’s OK get a reading of something like 0.1ohm 0.2ohm 0 ohm something along those lines above 0.2ohm it’s most likely toast, the red & green wires are the dc output to the battery now if their over heating then its most likely the regulator has gone which means it’s throwing out to much voltage & due to the shunting effect of the battery will overheat, a quick check of the voltage going to the battery will show this anything above realistically 14.7v its the reg gone.
Bikes are always a pain with the tyres, try local bike shops first you can get some good deals.
It’s a bit more involved, first rotate the engine using the time marks to tdc on the front cylinder write down the clearance of each valve then do the same for the rear. If any fall outside of the values then you need to remove the camchain tensioner, then the cam that needs adjustment, underneath there are upside down buckets using a magnet remove the bucket that the adjustment is needed, under the bucket is a shim you then work out from the size marked on the shim to what size you need to bring it back to value replace the shim with the right size, repeat this on the ones needing adjustment. Reassemble head using the service data regarding torques, timing marks etc. Rotate engine a few times back to tdc check values again, then repeat same process for the rear & your done. I will be honest it sounds really bad & complicated but it’s a job you can do if you take your time. It is an expensive job at the bike shop because of the time it takes, with coffee’s fags & mucking about I spend a morning doing it but I do tend to take my time.
I’m not referring to the starter solenoid but to the relays near the fuses, not sure if you have checked them.
That yellow thing with the diodes connected looks like a safety capacitor of some sort.
Oh no, it’s funny I have a gt250 efi proper sorted also a ktm 390 a suzuki 600 bandit a 1970 honda pf 50 & the crazy dax but the one bike I really would sorry to see the end of would be my little hyosung it’s a love hate relationship I love it but it seems to hate me sometimes. In 40+ years of riding just about everything I have never had another bike that I think so much of & I can’t explain why.
Wemoto. Com good for cables & a few other bits quick delivery & more importantly good quality.
I will add as oil threads normally cause all sorts of arguments this is my personal opinion. Having spent 40+ years working on everything from bicycles to 50 tonne excavators & having access to oil analysis equipment on the side the smith & Allen stuff has become my personal choice for pretty much everything except my highly tuned & crazy Honda dax which I have to run 20w 50 mineral Rock oil.
10w 40 semi synthetic oil now I use Smith & Allen limitless super 4t & have done for years in a multitude of bikes really good price really good oil in fact I have a ktm that I use their 15w 50 fully synthetic in never even had to adjust the valves. The important thing is to change the oil & filter regularly I do it twice a year march & October so before the winter & before the summer the oils cheap enough to make it worthwhile. Brake fluid dot 4, I recommend fs365 spray for winter use brilliant stuff.
There can really only be a couple of things 1 the side stand switch easy to check just unplug it & bridge the connection 2 there’s something wrong in the gearbox I hope not, without a chain on it it would rotate even if it had a stuck clutch.
