Simon
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I use a special grease molykote 111 compound, I use it on primarly small complex pneumatics but it works wonders on fitting plastics to rubbers & o-rings a tiny bit spread around the rubbers & the will go right on easy, expensive but a tube will last forever.
You can test the stator with a multimeter, the 3 yellow wires that come from the stator to a plug you need to touch the wires – pin1-pin2, pin1-pin3, pin2-pin3 you should if all well get a reading somewhere between.  . 2ohm-.9ohm on all contacts anything out of that range it’s toast.
It could well be stator/rectifier fry up, the standard regs fitted to these bikes are complete s&*t, they burn up & if you don’t spot it they then take each phase out, they will keep going on 2 phases for a bit but once another goes its down to the battery only & it won’t last long. The stator is easy to check but I suspect if its got that far the wires will be melted at the connection’s.
You can given enough time & good welding/fabrication skills fit pretty much anything to anything but in reality the answer is no even though the 3 bikes share a lot of parts the 650 frame is very different.
They are a pain to adjust more long winded than difficult but they are easy enough to check.
I will just give a bit of a ramble, I ride my bike (250gt fi) to work every day 12 mile round trip 2 miles of motorway, 40 zones national speed limit, I don’t hammer it e5 72.1-72.9 mpg every time, super unleaded 72.1-72.7 mpg e10 68.2-68.5 mpg massive drop added wynns e10 additive to e10 72.2-73 mpg so this one I would recommend.
This may sound stupid but what fuel are you using? If its e10 the higher ethonol content can cause all sorts of problems. The oil leak from the rubber is nothing to worry about as a general rule it could just be a slightly loose bolt or the rubber has perished not a hard fix.
The only things I encountered on my good old 250gt is electrical, I basically have renewed every single connector block with uprated connectors or done away with them completely, I upgraded the rectifier to a shindengen & bypassed the loom (in line fuse of course) direct to the battery, no more gremlins for me touch wood.
I suspect the problem lies around the main harness at the instrument/headstock.
You have definitely got electrical gremlins, in the pit stop section of these forums there are manuals.
Have you checked the starter solenoid, there is also the clutch lever switch which can cause issues but starter solinode would be the 1st thing I would look at, you can short across the terminals. If the neutral switch is playing about then the clutch lever switch comes into the mix but the fact the relay is clicking says not but the relay could be at fault its just a case of checking through.
