Simon
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Whatever you do make sure that you check the rectify/regulator as it’s normally the gremlin that causes the stator to fry
Yep the stator runs in the oil, the first check on the stator you just need a multimeter & unplug the connector with the 3 yellow wires that connects to the rectify then touch 1 to another cover all the combos 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 if its good the reading should look like 0.3, 0.2, 0.1 something like that if it’s 1 or above the stator is toast.
It could well be the unit has had it but try all the connections disconnect them give them a clean & try that first.
Is the engine turning over, this might seem daft but you haven’t knocked the kill switch to OFF? if not it could be the starter solenoid
It is something that’s worth upgrading I run a shindengen sh775 series regulator you need to do a bit of wiring, you can get pattern parts etc cheap the gt650 uses the same as st but not reliable it is the one part of the hyosungs that’s pretty grim.
If you put it in gear pull in the clutch can you move it without the engine running
Check the clutch switch 2 prong connector on the lever housing pretty sure it will have one fitted you can bypass it.
If its like normal po codes then that’s the engine coolant temperature sensor might be worth checking the connection’s on that first.
The first thing to check would be disconnect the fuel pipe from the carbs put it in to a container & crank the bike & see if you are getting fuel
No in the bottom bowl there are floats which move up & down to control the fuel level these are held in with a small pin they act upon a small needle that allows the fuel in.
The float bowl will not empty into the engine, it’s worth draining the tank because you could have water in the system a little in there will cause the problem but when it is moved about it will work that would be the first thing to check.
You need to back track your moves, the bike was running fine when you got it but then it was left for 6 months then problems this is fuel related, the trouble is you have tackled several different things which can make things very difficult to figure out, it’s adjusting the floats that concern me if this is wrong it will flood the engine & it will not start regardless of what you spray into them, take the plugs out & give it a spin over see if anything sprays out. Leave them out for a day to dry the cylinders then go from there. If there’s a spark & compression then it’s fueling the timing cannot really move unless something has broken & believe me you would hear that. I would start at the fuel filter then check the pump then the carbs I would strip & check everything is spot on also that side stand switch can cause a whole lot of pain so ms worth looking at.
It’s got to be a carb issue also change the fuel filter, the problem with unleaded is when it’s left it goes like varnish the only way to really clean the carbs is ultrasonic. I personally would go through the whole fuel system tank everything, I think the gv has a vacuum fuel pump that might be an issue as well.
There is a socket on the bike somewhere you need a piece of wire to short the terminals now I believe it needs to be running as the hyo ecus don’t store codes, the code will display on the clock then Google it or post on here & I do have a vast array of stuff laying about & I might be able to tell you what it is, I reckon it would most likely be a o2 sensor but one thing worthing checking on the battery is there a smaller wire connected to the earth? Check this as I know if it breaks it will cause the f1 light to be on at least on the 250 it will & tbh there’s not a lot of difference between them.
Hi there the hyos are definitely different but I love them my present one the gt250 f1 it’s one bike that I’ve had out of 30 odd that I cannot even consider getting rid of.
