♠️ M77
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That is indeed very strange.
To confirm this, get a bucket that has 0.5 , 1.0 , 1.5 , 2.0L markers inside.
Drain the oil and see how much is drained off.
If it is 1.5L exactly , it should be OK because there is no other place engine can get more oil without Rider adding more inside 😉
However, if it is 1.8L , then it is OK as that is max level the whole engine consumes (because of left over oil from crank , stator , flywheel , clutch , oil cooler, valve head….sometimes not all of the oil is drained away) thats why korea says put 1.5L next time you service bike or 1.6L max if you also change oil filter.
Also change oil filter now to be on safe side.
If the bike “cranks” , the Stator unit’s pickup sensor must tell the black box on the bike to engage sparking system (coils and caps)
I’d look at the stator pickup sensor , it might be reading 100 ohms stand still, but may read zero if crank spins , so it can flactuate if it is wanning (wanning parts trigger the black box to cut sparks off)
Check also side-stand switch (bypass it and waterproof it well)
Clutch Switch (don’t bypass, as fake neutrals can happen and you don’t want to start her and watch the bike fall down when it’s in first gear even though it says Neutral, a squeeze on the lever gaurantees your presence as you crank to start and let it idle when its safe to let go of the lever)
HT wire – could be breaking up inside ?
That is if the HT Cap itself is on a good ohm spec by its own.
Hope this helps and keep us updated
Get a good quality motorcycle tyre tube and rubber glue in your country that supports “HIGH HEAT” , and wrap around the intake intake pipe and patch it careful , that should help give it more life until you get replacemennt rubbers.
Sooty plugs also mean air filter is dirty (causing rich condition) , if the coils and caps are okay. Try fresh CR8E plugs and ride a little bit, then see your true plug colors again.
Spraying carb cleaner at the intake pipes helps (it has o-Rings under it) , sometimes they need replacing like these below
Intake Pipe O-RING (Inlet Boot Seals) x2 – GV125 GT125 RX125 GV250 GT250 Hyosung
Also spray around the airbox on top of the carbs, incase airbox is not sitting on carbs properly. It might leak out air.
Please do and i will share also on the shop galleries, much appreciated for your patience, give it about a week since im waiting also on a box of oil filters for Gv125-S EFi and Hyosung 650 bikes. Ride easy for now 🙂
Thanks for your replies and encouragement guys. I will follow your advice and get back. As for the intake rubbers, well that is another concern because while I was replacing the plugs I noticed that they were in a reasonably bad shape so if I do end up having to take out the carbs I am going to need to replace those. Following Marcel’s remarks about availability I’ve had a quick browse on the internet and it does look like I might be in trouble. Do you guys have any recommendations about where I could possibly source these? Thanks again.
i’ll always find a way to get intake pipes , believe me , my ebay is the one that has the most stock , and i’m always hunting. Do not worry but yes they are getting very difficult to get.
I bet you can’t wait to retire! You don’t have much time left in the workforce lol, you been waiting for this havent you ?
I will dig around and upload it but you can always ask in the forum what specific parts are giving you trouble.
If its the harness = Easy, but very very very long job -> meter check each wire colour end to end to see if circuit is complete
Stock size rubber is plenty. Going with larger/heavier tyres will only make steering and directional changes lethargic. Not to mention negatively affecting acceleration and deceleration.
Good points there!
Now that i’m getting used to the bike and i’m doing more miles, i’m thinking about taking it on a few longer days or multi-day trips around scotland. I was looking at https://hyoriders.club/shop/chains-sprockets/520-upgrade-chain-sprocket-kit-conversion-hyosung-gv125s-efi-injected/ but it says for 2020 onwards, whereas mine is the fuel injected version but 2019. Any ideas if this would fit? Thanks!
Yes it will fit. As long as it is the injected model as pictured in the shop galley.
They came to UK in 2019 but didn’t start getting REG plates until 2020 , so likely means you got the very early batches and dealer just wanted to slap a 19 plate on it!
Thanks for your interest, I want to make these kits popular and see how they perform with a larger customer pool as the bikes start to get more common now.
Hello gentlemen i have an 09 hyosung fi gv650 was running and ever since I disturbed the stator region it”s a no goer…. I would like to update my system inc regulator rectifier something that is compatible with the ecu wich is a s&t daewoo ecu…any recommendations..is there another ecu like a performance ecu i can upgrade to… Appreciate your input gents
Got your email, so i will wait for your reply 🙂
From your pics, that nut is basically just to hold the rod to the metal upside U bracket, you have the weaker design 125 shock, so they commonly go out. I would get the older design shocks you see on my ebay. There is even a spare new shape 125 shock im selling on ebay as “spares/repairs” , don’t get this one, it’s just to show how weak it is.
The handling will change yes going wider but in my experience the stock sizes did a fantastic job. The only best upgrade for tyres is using Michlin Pilot Road 2 to Road 5
Which such stickyness and quality michelin tyre, you do not need to worry about going wider , other brands always have “confidence” issues and are always twicy in wet winter days. Hence i will forever love michelins. Bridgestone is my only backup.
is it possible to show us a picture of your shock ? The reason is because the GT’s have the old gen and the new gen shocks for the 125R models. The 125R suffers a lot with the new gen shocks, so we tend to sell the old gen ones which last way better and despite their tatty looks, their age proves their longevity.
hi! Im having some trouble with the pick up coil values, can anyone give me the correctamente values or the service manual. (Aquila 650 2005)
Normal range is 100-140 ohms max when the bike is ice cold (this is because heat rises ohms / resistance up)
120/60 is OK (70 is only for 110 size) because speedo is at the forks. So use 120/60
160/60 is the maximum safe limit for the rear, so it is allowed 🙂 – Do not use 170/180+ as those people are idiots.
Well the bike went back on the road and was used for a year then passed on to a friend, no parts required now.
That’s great, good on you for keeping it alive 🙂 Hope the friend stays in the club! Take it easy out there this summer.
As per simon, start easy by investigating ignition parts.
But i would recommend removing carbs and please do not panic, follow these 2 guides below and TAKE YOUR TIME 🙂 , Rubber Intake pipes are very difficult to get now, so look after yours well.
Send me an email below (I have loads on my ebay page)
here is a fun fact.
In 1999 – 2002 Hyosung “did” actually use electric pumps on their GV250 Aquila Carb models , which looks 100% like this one and they use a “special 1999-2001” bike harness to include the pump and the CDI would know about it too. Very very rare now, why ? = They discovered, stators would last longer and owners would have less maintenance jobs on the bikes if they contract Mikuni Japan to make them a vacuum pump.
This is when they started making intake pipes updated with vacuum holes for pump. Old rare models did not have vacuum holes to feed pipes to vacuum pump.
Nowadays, the Taiwanese seem to do these pumps for old scooters and their quality is not good. So if you find a pump like this, or similar, it will be made in Taiwan or China , (big problems later)
You want a vacuum pump to guarantee that you will not be stranded many miles away from home. In my years of riding Hyos , i’ve never had a rear pump fail on me.
Just the tank “TAP” is a common replacement item. (for good reason, bad taps cause engine hydrolocking , jammed carbs , seized motors.) so always make sure one every 2-3 months , remove the tank tap pipe and confirm it is not dripping fuel when engine is OFF and tap is OFF setting. Saves you in the long run!
