♠️ M77
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How is the bike behaving now ? The UK temps have calmed down a little bit
And what work has been doing by you (or anyone else) to improve it from “standard” to “better than before” ?
I’d say the 250 cooler is a BIG BIG must have on these 125s, they will really thank you and strictly ESTER oil (That is Motul ESTER or Silkolene ESTER)
Only 10w40 or 10w50. I use 10w50 all year on all my bikes.
20w is a no. 15w is a no. those 2 figures are too thick, it could wear down the bike even more as it is the only 125 on our soil with crazy amount of bearings inside the motor & 2 angry pistons lol.
For which bike ?
You have more than one listed in your profileAs per simon.
Also replace or investigate the “fuel tap” (that’s in the tank) and also the “fuel pump” that is on the frame.How did you clean the carbs ?
usually after sitting that long, 2 sessions of ultrasonic bathing does big wonders
Hey, Does any 1 have a assembly diagram for the fuel petcock, i belive either the spring or diaphragm is bad or out of position or i need to replace the whole petcock, but if any has any info it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Since you have a Naked GT on your profile details.
Do you have a “frame mounted” petcock (older gt250s) or late carb model that has a vacuum operated tap inside the fuel tank itself. ?Sorry
I mean adjustment. 
Yes it is like adjusting tappets on a HONDA CG125 , so the principle is very similar when you open your covers and you also see the CG125 , and also look at Yamaha YZR125 engine 2008
Welcome , and how nice to put a rex under the light lol, reminds me of someone who ones did a jaw design on their sidepanels of a Hyosung GTR bike. I think it’s still on google to be honest.
I hope you stick around 😉
Also, ride safe out there, we only get so few days of good warm weather before horrible winter comes, so make most of this Summer 🙂
Thanks Marcel. Is the regulation like on one cylinder carb ones? By a screw?
“Regulation?”
I didn’t understand this part sorry to ask again!What is ‘HT caps’ sir? Just trying to crank my bike again & the battery is dead Deos the mean I have stator problem now? I’ve taken out my CDI unit & put it in my friend’s bike it 1 kick start so I’m safe in CDI?
HT Caps = Ignition Caps , like you see below (use NGK ones)
NGK Uprated HT Coil Spark Plug Cap/Covers (x2) – Hyosung GTR GT GV (Various Models)
If your CDI works in your friend’s bike, then it works.
Get a Motorcycle Charger (not a car!) and fully charge the battery first and then do the rest of my previous reply to see if you get any sparks.
You got this!
INTAKE CLEARANCE = 0.08
EXHAUST CLEARANCE = 0.11
On ice cold engine.
I will make a special topic soon on the forum that has the service manuals in different languages as i am collecting them slowly and reading them for accuracy incase there is printing errors by who ever was writing the manuals for Hyosung lol
it is too large to send via email, will try upload it here after i am done with work
Send him a PM so that he shares his email privately, i had to delete the email address on here to protect his privacy.
Now did it spark after pulling in the clutch ?
If it doesn’t spark?
– Check coils or replace
– check HT caps and spark plugsAlso the sparks are cut off by
- side-stand switch even if its bypassed , maybe the wires rotted ?
- clutch switch (but this should not be a problem if it cranks with lever pulled in now as you said)
Last war for sparking will be the
- CDI unit
- stator (pulse sensor needs to work before the bike even thinks of sparking) , the cdi wants to know the stator pulse sensor works 1st
Well guys I have managed to apply a reasonably thick layer special silicone designed to resist heat over the cracks on the intake rubbers. Left it 24 hours to make sure it was dry and then went for a ride but unfortunately the problem persists. I have now ordered new rubbers (managed to source these from the US) quite expensive but I am going to have to attack those carbs. Thanks again for all the support and information you have provided me with. I will post an update once I complete the next challenge
Make sure to replace the “intake” O-Rings too! and keep us posted 🙂
When the lights go dimm, it means 3 things
- I know its tested but i highly bet the battery drops volts and amps as fast as you press “start” , because it’s asking to spin the starter, supply power to cdi and coils etc to spark 10,000 volts pulses to the plugs to fire up.
- Solenoid could be gone yes
- Starter Motor has gone weak (thus causing extra battery drain) – Replace it or open it to inspect starter motor bushes but drain bike oil first before removing starter motor.
Also when lights go dimm, does the dashboard go dimm too? do you hear a click ? buzzing like flies? or thud-thud ?
Finally got round to taking a picture somewhere nice. Went out for a ride to the coast Friday night. Bike is running well….except since fixing the electrical issue i have, well, an electrical issue! The indicators are temperamental…sometimes they work sometimes they don’t. Anyway something to fix at some point to stop me needing to use arm signals!!
If she can get you by the waters, then shes good to go, albeit a few niggles to fix but all in all she looks good! 🙂
It is okay, sorry i was not clear.
On your handlebar for the clutch, there is a switch wire , follow it. And check it is connected.
Temporary use paper clip to join the 2 bullet connectors (do it safe)
Then check for sparks on the bike.
Make sure to squeeze clutch lever before startingWe want to see if a “temporary” bypass of the clutch switch wire works.
Also check side stand , follow its wires, you will see a “BLACK 2PIN” plug under the airbox that has 1x brown wire and 1x black wire.
Bypass them forever, the side stand switch is very annoying on carb bikes, it is not great!
Just remember to check side stand before you ride away! 🙂Then we shall focus on the switch gear is working correctly or not… it will be the last item to tell solenoid(big golf ball relay near battery) to crank the bike.
This sounds crazy but are you very certain the
- Clutch Lever Switch is working ? = if not, cdi cuts sparks off.
- Side Stand Switch (bypass it)
A carb bike will still “crank” without sparks, if the Solenoid circuit is complete all the way to the cdi and switch gear.
It even cranks without a CDI and reg rec.
So i’d look at the right switch gear is actually sending the signal to trigger the solenoid to spin the starter motor >?
I have already changed the oil and the oil filter, but the problem remains. I suspect that gasoline would slowly come into the oil because there is no other fluids in the engine.
That would also be correct. It would cause hydro locking issues and many issues like soon replacing pistons, crank , cylinder heads etc….
Oil will smell of fuel.
This means carb floats need changing / adjusting , change float seats (because they jammed and allow fuel in to cylinders when bike is off) , change float seat needles , and finally look at investigating the tank tap and also fuel pump , if you have doubts, its cheaper to replace all fuel parts i mentioned than rebuild an engine 🙂
Fake Emissions Device.
Very very useless on carb bikes.
Korea puts EGR (infamous name) but correct word is “AIS” / 2nd Air Valve to make bike emissions less in stricter EU countriesHere in UK we don’t care , we don’t get checked for emissions on carb bikes, so it is legal for us to remove it for now, thats why we sell the blanks
EGR Valve Blanking Plate / AiS Delete Block Off Kit – Various Hyosung Carb Models
Bike is happier = why? More vacuum energy is going to the fuel pump now , instead of sharing vacuum energy to pump , tap , and AIS(EGR) device.
The bike will make less pop sounds too. Exhaust may sound a tiny bit better.
1999-2002 GV engines did not have it.
If you remove it, make sure to blank the ports , like below
How to change Vacuum Lines on Hyosung GT125R GT250R & GT Comet (Air Hose Diagram)
Ignore the bike is a GT above ^ , the instructions also help GV bikes , they have the same engines and carbs (125cc GT/GV included)
