♠️ M77
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The SV and Hyosung both use Mikuni Carbs , but because of Hyosung & Suzuki ‘s past relationship , the similarities would be there…
But.. Hyosung’s engine is faster than the SV’s if tuned right, i know it is, it may have different jetting than the SV. Then there is also some small metal parts hyosung makes themselves by hand to join 2 carbs together , some metal parts to guide the cables properly etc , small little things , even the idle adjuster cable seems Hyosung made with the help of Mikuni.
I think this might also avoid Hyosung having to copy Suzuki entirely and pay licenses/copyrights for everything , hence you could argue their engines are similar but most internals are “Hyosung Made” for “Hyosung only” so to speak.
The SV might have extra parts attached to the carb that Hyosung doesn’t need. (Less parts , less maintenance to worry so to speak lol)
You could rob some parts there and there but don’t expect to copy everything from the SV 😉
Hey,
Can you open the bike on full throttle ? or was it ever dyno’d ? – I would say since it’s a carb model, it would be similar to the efi where the there would be either:
- Restrictor Plate that limits the air flow in the intake throats (least i expect that for some EU models)
- Restrictor Plate for the throttle that stops the carbs going full throttle (can only go up to certain revs, etc)
Any other restrictions will be across all GT models (LAMS or not) usually is the exhaust muffler & intake air filter , plus if its carb the jets will be downjetted slightly (least here in EU for silly emissions control) but it would still be a full throttle bike even with these applied
In AU , its commonly the throttle restrictor plate being added to stop the bike going full throttle either carb or Fi. Just EFi is more common now.
Beautiful cruisers! – Don’t change the pipes , they look good, and they are still to this day best performing pipes torque wise. Rare now days. I am not a fan of the later EFI models with the huge bazookas lol.
Welcome to the site!
Have you managed to get the service manual from my previous comments and trick the ECU to spew out an error code ?
So that we have a better idea what sensor is acting up , that prevents you from starting it (I mean if it screams to life, then dies , then the ECU has probably cut the sparks off if one of the sensors on the bike is acting up) or see below about compression
Bike will ride without a speed sensor that is on the left bottom fork leg (your cut 3x wires you see down there) , the dash will just say 0 mph / 0 kmh
Also find out if you can do a cold compression test and let us know the figures?
- All spark plugs out
- use the metal pipe with a curve rubber tip of the compression tool
- Hold it down hard, crank the bike for 5 seconds max
- Read the compression for front engine
- Repeat above ^ for rear engine
- Do this with full throttle open too.
Process of elimination now! (Well, until we get to the part that was stopping the bike starting or engine has something out of spec such as compression)
Regards
Looks generic, so I can’t confirm if I ever tried them or not. “Yanhao” must be some chinese name but if it works , it works i guess!
Message the seller if in doubt (if its too small or too big to fit on your chassis and if the cap is some generic cap or OEM hyosung cap attached to the coil) (or if any returns accepted if the coil arrives dead)
My partner is going to order me parts for Christmas, I notice one has sold do you have another link for the required parts?
Send me an email when she is ready and I will see what I still have left, but they do sell quickly yes as its that season everyone is fixing their projects up before spring time 2024
I wanted to add by saying even Honda’s are mentioned somewhere on the GOV UK site to use E5 if they are very old carb models , although , using e10 on modern machines still presents a problem, it still means the more e10 usage the more maintenance later down the road the machine requires. Though some say it is “EFi E10 Ready” just so the auto makers can stay in business & sell products on top of EU’s stupid laws lol. They also think we may handle E30 in the near future ? I’d love to see that! (E5 still wins, if it ever stays around lol ) .
On Simon’s note in regards to “Shingden” regs. I wholly recommend them and they should have been factory for every 650cc that left Korea’s plants. I have witnessed with my own eyes a regulator going in smoke when a customer called me for help locally , all he did was change the battery , I was truly amazed the inferior outsourced part actually also cooked up his LCD display on the bike , I felt bad for him. Needless to say , Australians have been saying the same woes on their 650s online with connectors burning etc – That was enough for me to never sell new 650 oem regs (Hyosung doesn’t make them anyway, still outsourced to this day) – Shingden all the way for me.
That looks OK. Did the plugs clip nicely ? Facing right way?
If harness has 2 plugs then it fits a gv250 cdi with 2 plugs yes.
I couldnt see properly on the image so i just assumed its connected OK
A quadbike Marcel, yes that sounds good, very tempting and would be ideal in this area, except for…the exceedingly angry farmer chasing me with his shotgun!
If i was to milk one of his cows to save some labour of his hands , then slowly manipulate my way up his “friendship chain” , i may just slowly buy some acres of his land and have the guns , then it’s fair game to roll my quads in those lands , and i can always say “chassing rats away!” 😆
It sounds like it was hunting for fuel then couldn’t maintain idle then died off ?
I would not advise this === but does it idle at 4,000 revs on choke or what is the max revs the bike can idle on choke ? (Don’t run choke for more than 5-10mins) as not to cook the bike up.
Before we touch other parts, lets look at the carb again , lots questions below but don’t panic (some of them have answers/tutorials in other threads on this forum)
- Pilot Jets = What size ? Did you clean them again? Could you see though them?
- Did you “air compressor” the permanent jet that is in the carb (it also controls starting)(Can’t be removed but blow air through it to clean it)
- Main Jets ? what sizes?
- Mixtures? How many full turns ? Still OEM ? (I hope it is OEM otherwise it will be an abyss!)
- Float height ? (If its off, the pilots won’t reach the fuel before the floats close too early because height is too small)
- Cleaning the carbs => Did you replace the “float seat gold and float needle” , as they directly control how much fuel comes in and do they still have their “MESH” protectors ? (have to remove the gold seat to actually see it)
I’m 77 years young
That rhymes with “Heaven’s Heavenly” , hey speaking of flying angels , i hope your main petrol version is doing well so far & post anytime if you get stuck with something
Welcome fella.
This path screams for you get Hyosung ATV Quad , think how much fun you would have on the snowy fields 😉
Strange but here in UK the rear is hotter due to fact it gets less air (ironically not an air cooled bike but benefits from jet enrichment on the rear). Every twin hyosung i have worked on always had a rear cylinder 2.5 steps above the front.
Your setup with the customizations will be okay with a 127.5 range to 132.5 max size main jet on each cylinder. And this can be verified by plug chops that you will do just to make sure mixture is good.
The oem sizes is correct for 125 and 122.5 but rear should have had the bigger jet.
Did this help ? 🙏
” I found where those wires go but they broke right at the base where they go into the housing so I’m going to have to replace it, but would that prevent the bike from starting? ”
Not sure which wires you were referring to ?Check the dash say F1 or Fi ? And while you were at it , since it started for a split second.
Try this:
- Compression Test on full throttle , then we see how much psi each engine head has on cold.
(Though readings a better when its warmed as per service manual) - Speaking of service manual, head to the manuals section of this forum and get the 250cc EFi manual , trick your ECU to give up any error codes.
Or
Turn it off , disconnect battery for 12-24hrs , then follow the instructions on the manual to see if you get an error code which tells you what sensor or part on the bike is preventing it from starting
Hey,
Welcome! – Sorry i delayed , not sure what time it is over there as i know West vs East have slight time zone changes , it is “7pm UK” time as i write this message 😬.
Right, see those 3 wires hanging on the caliper ?
- They go from the “dash board ” –> directly –> to WHEEL SENSOR
- This wheel sensor is a black block that always sits on the left side of the bike
So check your left fork and confirm it is there and safely join the wires matching their colours , then tape them very well to avoid a fire hazard. The caliper does actually get hot with the brake disc too.
In regards to starting , do you get any sparks from both coils ? And the plugs are CR8E? (only this plug should be used especially on EFi bikes)
Will a 2010 GV250 efi work as a donor bike for my 2012 GV250 efi Delphi? I know they have a different ecu but the coils and sensors and stuff?
Daewoo uses Sentec or very early Delphi sensors.
Also stators , flywheels , ecu and all harness is locked to daewoo even coils may have different Ohms ratings
Little sensors like lambda probe ; airbox ISCV ; ET should be OK.
It tends to fill up after a very long ride at a steady pace but full throttles tend to drink it up , half full is OK for the size of that filter compared to the teeny ones Hyosung uses.
As long as there is fuel in there overnight, that’s good , it means your “fuel pump” (by the battery) isn’t sending fuel to the carbs while you’re sleeping & the floats get jammed one day, the engine gets hydrolocked 😬
