♠️ M77
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Hey welcome Justin!
Honestly , You can do it while the airbox is still attached to the bike. You would just need to gently lay a big old rag on the floor, drop the fairings slowly.
You should see a choke cable hooked on a carb rail , it will be held down by a hook that pulls it when you activate the choke lever.
Hey,
The jetting sizes for “Mains” are OK with a variation of 5 or 2.5 it is because some states in your country or even EU countries have certain emission regulations , so if the bike arrives “downjetted” with- charcoal cannisters
- EGR (they errornously call it) (actually is called AIS or 2nd Air Valve System)
It would then make sense as to why Korea also has variations of their manuals but….”beside jetting” , 90% of the book tends to be globally correct for all their models as no other country has a “special carb” than the other country etc. The workshop manuals used to be for dealers in the old times when servicing or trying to honor warranties etc, we consumers just got the “cut down” version call owners manual which covers small owner maintenance leaving the big stuff to garages & dealers 😉 but i digress i assume you know this already
GT Naked models (250cc and 650cc) all use the same parts as the R model of the same year except ,
- R’s tend to be twin discs + nose metal cage added for face fairing
- Frame has a “2 stubs” to mount the cage (click here)
- Their own Box Headlight that is dual lamp (h1 & h3)
- A digital dashboard for 250R carbies only (Since carby GT250 has a twin old school dials)
A GT650 naked will have digital dash but usually towards the end of its carby era , transitioning to EFi (circa 2008-2010)
GT650R carby since 2005 has had a digital dash
Now if a bike has an “older twin clock” style dash , it will have a harness tied specifically to that. As some Naked models won’t accept a digital dash etc without its R harness variant (or EFi harness for EFi clocks) etc
All EFi models of GT naked use the same dash as their R sisters.
As i have learned over the years , the sections of manual covering the “facial” plastics or extra body work isn’t covered in great depth anyway, as fairings for R models are straight forward;-) , i am not sure what they would need to cover? Typically if a fairing breaks , Hyosung would say replace (or we over here in UK , send it to the bodyshop guy for repairs and repaint 😉 )
I think you will be OK with the current paper manual you have but if in doubt about a specific section , you’re welcome to ask!
Yes, that’s the teeny one that was so infamous for blowing up. Based on your recent report, these below suit your bike 100% (our regulators will be 3x larger than yours and it is intentional).
As you live in N.I , postage should be free but please send me an email with your postcode , just incase there is no surcharges for certain postcodes but I doubt it!Stator Unit (+ mandatory gasket card/template) (can’t re-use the old one) & various Stainless Bolts (required as OEM bolts are not great!):
Upgrade Magneto Alternator Stator Coil :: GT GV 125 250 + RT RX 125
Regulator Unit
Upgrade Regulator Rectifier [Reg Rec] :: GV GT 125 250 R GTR Hyosung
Oil Filter!
Oil Filter Service Kit & O-Rings – Hyosung GV125 GT125R GT125 GV250 GT250
You should have some good fresh oil ready and inspect your drain plug is all good, you will find oil related tutorial here:
As you want no old shavings or any particles to cling to the new stators. Clean that flywheel drum very well!
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/change-oil-filter-hyosung-twins/
I have to be sorry to be a bearer of bad news but when you start a bike , with a “truck running” , it means you sent too much “amps” (not volts)
14V is good but its like sending 5 gorillas to lift the bike up instead of needing just one , so it gets crushed when squeezed out by all 5. In other words thje strength of the current was too much for the bike even though it started.
It would likely mean
- Fried up stator
- 100000% fried up regulator (as you said it was insanely hot) , its not normal at all.
- If its an EFi bike, you possibly may end up having to replace defective sensors all over the bike one by one that use energy, such as your coils , ISCV, Lambda Probe o2, etc.
This can explain why it may not start on its own as who knows if the previous owners have done the same thing , current that’s too much = heat and heat increases “resistance” . If a part “resists” too much, it won’t fully pass the require signals to start the bike and run it effeciently.
So, tear down the bike until it is on bare harness , smell the harness for burn marks and ECU = these are so important that trying to find a new D-ECU’s or Harnesses for a GV specifically is difficult as it is (Since Korea has now moved on to GV300S and GV250DR 2021).
Replace these right away to be safe;
- HT Caps
- Ignition Coils
- Spark Plugs (CR8E only!)
- Stator Unit that’s for DELPHi
- Regulator that’s for DELPHi
If in doubt send an email , ill find the parts for you but hey….. you’re lucky it didn’t go on fire. Years ago regulators were posted online by Hyo owners of them going on fire.
Again sorry for the bad news but it looks like we doing an electrical reset and you can’t trust half the old electronics anymore. Things like stators / regs / coils are usually not “user-fixable”
LED Lights won’t murder the stator as that’s not even 10 watts drawn out of the stator as the bike runs.
Good job you have a black stator , we can work with that! – Sadly new ones are not made anymore , so we gotta pimp that. with a regulator.
I bet the regulator is either chinese on it or a teeny silver one (which Hyosung recalled/updated to the bigger OEM ones but still not great as it was an “outsourced” part)
Was the truck running when you jumped the GV ?
This question is very key.
Based on that Tacho, you should have a harness that says “GT250R” with a white tag , near the battery. As all 2005-2009 GT125R (specifically “R” fairing models) use GT250R harnesses from a carby GT250R (they last longer as they are thicker honestly)
If unsure, just got near the battery , along the harness , photograph the tag that’s written on it and i will confirm.
Coils (without HT cap attached)
- Ground to HT wire = max 6.2K ohms (6200)
- Ground to Coil “terminal” connector = 0.01 to 0.10 ohms ( zero point one single ohm)
Nothing good about the RC Flywheels
- Smaller + 18 pole stator = Also discontinued product , costs more than the older black 12/11-pole versions that are far more durable or the upgrade ones. Older flywheels are better. Allows to use OEM stator (pre-2009 black ones) or upgrade versions (but avoid china though!)
((A “LOT” of common charging issues with hyos can sometimes be attributed to knock of stators and regulators. Sometimes they blow batteries or the harness literally catches fire…. Oh yes, we saw all that on Facebook years ago, thats either a GT125, GT250 or even a 650 which has bigger stators!) - OEM stators are OK “dependent” on how the regulator behaves and the bike isnt trying to “piss it” off. The 125cc stators don’t like heated grips (Use KIES Portable Apparel for that winter sizzle! and recommended)
Questios are fine , fire away. You want her happy with it and you pretty much her mechanic!
Honestly , 90% of them are scams and i rarely or will never do business with them. I was approached buy multiple “so called spares” sites but i declined all of them. We can get one for you as we have a real exporter in UK called Sinnis Bikes & MotoGB those are “real Hyosung UK” .
If you want a real Hyosung EU , then get in touch with Sima France or K&V MOTO CZECVH, those are real Hyosung stockists , with their stock directly in their EU warehouses. Sometimes I buy Hyosung stock from Siri Germany
Geopgraphically speaking USA shipping fees are not funny and takes longer to get to you 😬 (in some cases)
Do not buy anything from wholesale , eu, nz, au, catalogue, hyparts usa, all are the same design, same owner using a shopify script that duplicates information across both sites.
Stay wise!
It looks like one of the phases of the stator is on its way out. So I would most definitely look to upgrade the stator unit and regulator (being a married pair ofcourse lest old part ruins the new part)
Is the engine grey or black (OEM colour, not re-sprayed by past keepers) – if in doubt you can always upload the picture of the current stator thats in the bike , due to the fact there is 2 versions that exist
Also some owners actually buy newer flywheels and stators from a 2016 GT125RC to retrofit back inside a 2005-2010 engine.
Hence even on this site , i sell 2 variants of 125cc stators for the GT125 bikes.
I would definitely recommend NGK caps as the OEM caps are just rubbish. (Avoid the “plastic” ngk caps too as they rattle too much) , you want the rubber versions like we do and fresh plugs.
Coils = Keep the oem coils if the primary & secondary resistance are in spec ? (Measure the resistance of the coils without the HT cap attached. Poorly coils do make it hard sometimes to get up to speed if they are wanning (assuming she has had moments of misfire while riding ? or flat-ness in some rev ranges)
Tachometer = Post a picture , 3 variations exist and are tied to the harness the bike uses (as ofcourse there is 3 variations of harnesses Hyosung uses on the Gt125R)
Sorry for digressing , I hope i made some sense. In a nutshelf 85v + at 5k revs is good for a stator at all 3 yellow lines.
Lest we forget indeed. I like the crash bars , very good investment. I see that you also have bars on the rear , you could strap on some textile pannies on there 🙂
That would be the regulator
Can you confirm also that each “yellow” wire of the stator unit , outputs identical voltages ? with the reg disconnected while at 5000 rpm ?
Ie.
3 yellow wires
- Yellow A & B = volt?
- Yellow B & C = volt?
- Yellow A & C = volt?
Also a warm welcome to both of you , she made a good choice with the hyosung! – We will get it going no worries about that, there isn’t too much riding happening until Spring time, so Daddy might aswell give it a full once over 😉 . Ignore whatever the last owners did to it, act as if you just bought it blindly and will trace everything under the chassis to make sure its all in spec , then your young lady won’t have to worry too much & just ride.
Hope the new owner makes himself known on this forum and you are still welcome , after all the SV did have development contributions by Hyosung for its existence around the late 90s-early 2000s. Ride safe fella and enjoy the big girl!
Absolutely fine and thank you for keeping an eye , I will pro-actively lock down the site in stages , but they will never know the real person’s email as it goes to us first , a bit like emails being filtered by ebay , we have a similar system. Just keep an eye on your email address incase you forget your password , the site will never tell me your password as it is encrypted , so an email will be needed for you to reset it on your end in the future.
If there is aspects of the site you think i should remove , i don’t mind the feedback.
I was thinking to downsize by removing the “personal profile status update” feature as it doesn’t get much usage anyway and i am not sure if we should remove the “Activity Page” commenting feature.
Just ideas to slim down the site of pages no one really uses etc, even though it is like a full fledge Facebook style site haha
I’ve put a purple notice for all to see and report anything. I hate spam.
The site’s users are not compromised in any way as i have strict security protocols in place to avoid account breaches.
This “vera20” member was banned and I will be removing the spam , they “manually” registered on the site as a human (it could be a human or a bot) , and they clicked a bunch of random profiles , clicked “private” messaging.
Hence all private messaging is filtered through “site admin” email address which i don’t disclose or sometimes noreply@ site .com which any responses go in to a black hole.
I am sorry this has happened , i will have to make site registrations more stricter now and likely find a way to only message people if “they are friends” first.
Status Updates (on your own profile) might be locked off , that only friends respond to it
Bare with me & sorry again! – I am just as annoyed with these spammers on facebook groups that i am admin of , so Facebook doesn’t have it easy either haha.
I saw the youtube clip, hmmm i can try break this down for ya , follow me, i think i am on to something but will need you to also verify next time you have your hands on it.
- Spray the airbox rubbers and intake rubbers = see if revs change or engine grumbles or screams = air leak.
- Rev up to 5000 rpm then let go, do you see any kind of smoke, do you smell any oil stench on the exhaust ? = too much engine oil , or concern for oil in engine (replace it, if the bike ever had fuel leak out of the carbs when it was OFF)
- I see you have a full tank, buy WYNNS FORMULA GOLD PETROL (this bottle only) pour all in the tank, ride a bit and let us know if the bike starts to behave a little better as the fuel bars drop low.
I trust the carbs are clean already but the WYNNS bottle might also make its way through the fuel lines, spark plugs , pistons ,to get some gunk off and take away some carbon (it will try!)
Plug Analysis
- Front center cone = main jet is OK, full throttle seems OK, but idling a bit rich due to dark black sooty ring but…..is the black ring oily or ashy-dusty ? – The plug’s threaded body looks dark at the base and almost silver rest of the way towards its white insulator, it means front cylinder isn’t overheating like crazy (thanks to winter and the nakedness of the GV!)
- Rear Center Cone + Rear RING = OK. Nothing to add here, it’s good! – This is the “aim” or sweet spot if you will.
- However, rear body of the plug suggests its a bit hotter than the front (threads are darker = hotter cylinder head but …. not concerning yet)
Throttle dipping / climbing means either these but we will narrow it down as we progress on servicing her…
- Mixtures , try to ride at 2.5 full turns out each cylinder and see how it generally rides. This will be our base as going beyond 3.5 turns is totally pointless , it will have less effect once you in full throttle (main jets and “slides” take over) so full throttle issues should be jets and slides (sticky?) …) or floats or fuel pump wanning or tap wanning , or the fuel parts have debris hence Wynns Formula in petrol to collect em and engine to burn them off out of the exhaust
- Pilot Jet clogged again (revs flactuate) is a sign its “hunting” for fuel to prevent the bike stalling abruptly
- Starting = Permanent Jet + Pilot Jet = If you get access to air compressor , blow them hard
- Fuel Levels = float heights , pilots “barely” reach the fuel but i think you know how to adjust them to a sweet spot by now 🙂 or i understand you’re experimenting with fatter aftermarket floats vs OEM ones but they still have max resting height of 7mm-8mm max . 7mm is the OEM sweet spot, i understand float needles and what not can affect the height a little bit , too much here or there can overflow fuel out of the carb so adjust and check accordingly.
- Richness = revs up, then dips below 1500 (see what i said prior to this sentence)
- Needle of the Slide = If it has 5 steps to go down to the pointy tip, try step #5 , if its worse, go up to step 3 which is its default middle setting but never go beyond step 2 and 1 as those will lean out the bike. 5 step or 3 step needles Korea uses are always at the middle setting from factory. Going to the middle lets you see if full throttle makes it hit 70mph or not. More speed more fuel or too much fuel can bog it if rest of the bike isn’t optimized (air vs spark (all electrics from coils, plugs etc,) vs fuel (carb, tap, pump)
Full service is not a bad call! – You want to get to it before it gets too cold and Xmas is around the corner where families rob our time until new years lol
I hope this reply made any sense but if at one point i confused you, just let me know , ill explain better next time
Hey,
Send us an email (tap here) and we can do you an X-RING deal for the GV125-S EFi bike. The 520 chains do not fit OEM sprockets as they are bigger and thicker in general so the sprockets you have will need changing.
IMO, the 428s are standard for most 125cc bikes (except bikes like KTM Duke etc , use 520 factory chains) but the 428s can’t beat the longevity of a 520. Hence we never sell 428s on this site as it means more cost for customer (you swap more 428 kits than you do a 520)
Plus contact us to customize your gearing for you , want acceleration ? (only ride around 30-40mph all day) or you ride at 70mph all day on dual carriage ways , or just a balanced kit , either way , you will pull better that’s for sure. Sorry if this sounded like an agressive push towards you leaning to a 520
If sticking with OEM parts, Hyosung uses 138 links on their 428s on 125cc twin models (sometimes 132-136) . Your local garage that supplies any 428 chain, will usually have a 150L chain and he will cut links as appropriate to service a customer machine (if unsure of the bike’s original link count)
I know that an X-RING is the best grade 520 there but an HD520 is what we commonly send & they do a good job over the 428s.
– Rear sprocket = 2yrs (unlimited miles or until the chain says it needs replacing)
– Front Sprocket = naturally this will wear out a bit sooner than rear because its smaller that’s all.If I missed something , just let me know!
That’s great to hear you got it running now! 👍❤
Now on to the “fine-tuning” , and we shall leave her alone unless you couldn’t resist changing her looks for whatever reason but i think once the carbs are done , you can lend your hand on other areas anyways to make sure its all good like Oil , Clutch , Clearances and that’s it 🙂
Thanks for your reply, I’ve removed the complete system, no electrical connections. Bike running perfect now after full carburettor strip and clean.😊
Did you get your parts already ? That is fast!
Thanks for the youtube clip;
I can see your confusion there…
- Did you already use a new rebuild kit ?
- Did you use new floats from us , as they are factory adjusted?
7mm = This is when the float is actually resting on the “needle” plunger (If you press down the float, it will drop to 4-5mm ish)
The spring is just there to make sure bumps , shocks , etc doesn’t cause the float to ram the needle against the golden seat (well)
17mm is when the float is lifted up to the ceiling (as that would be how the carb is when it’s on the bike) , until the float bowls fill up with the float going down to 7mm to close the fuel delivery. (it will hover around that number as you ride as not to completely drain the carb in full throttle)
Torques:
- Disc Bolts = 18 ft lbs max, with a little bit of Loctite (better to use titanium bolts!)
- We do have an oil change tutorial on the forum as you say, the motor itself is a carbon copy, so it will use the same oil filter, i doubt they changed it
- The air filter system is similar but almost “close” to the original carby models / efi models before the DR came on scence
- Wheel Axles (where wheels spin on) are the same torque as the EFi , i can’t see this changing. Infact even the older GV’s used the same front axle bar stolen from the GT650 lol
Though , if you get stuck i can always provide insight , i will grab hold of the manual (bike has never seen UK soil), so i will ask an european importer/trader i know. No one in UK asked for it, so sorry that you didn’t see it uploaded here. Elusive bike but pretty that is lol.
