♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Congrats on your test! Stay in the hyo family lol. Keep the 125 for winter or short runs as i own one myself for just that or as a work horse sometimes (if car isn’t being used haha) , but keep an eye for a GT650 or GV650 🙂
On your GV125C – Few pointers if it helps;
- Float height 7mm sitting down (means float is gently resting on the needle) , 17mm lifted up… But 8mm is a generally a max limit when the carb is sitting on its diaphragm covers.
- Tank Tap = Check OFF means OFF (Disconnect the hose safely and ensure the tap still doesn’t leak out fuel when its in OFF mode)
- Change Floats = If in doubt about them
- Change “Needle Seat” and “Float Needles” , these 2 are literally the only items that will stop the fuel coming in after the floats have risen (extra fuel will just overflow to cylinder overnight sometimes) – Hence “float jamming” being a common thing on carb motorcycles , it just means we have to extra be serious with them (unlike injectors lol)
140 psi via a flexi hose should be OK to make it “start” at minimum, the hard metal pipe is pushed down as we crank the engine or it shoots at you!😉 (Just make sure the metal bit uses a Spear Shape rubber tip.
Red = Power
Black with Grey Stripe = NegativeALL GREY = Dash Illumination (must also use ALL GREY wire from the harness)
Now does it turn on ?
Disconnect the red 9pin plug as the wires are mismatching pins from the harness
Red wire
Black/White wireThat should be bare minimum to turn it on ? Try that? first. Or open the dash unit to check signs of it being fried but i hope it isn’t
Sometimes the live wire to turn on the LCD will be orange or orange/red
Not until next MOT December 24
Some garages might ignore it but others who have dealt with a Hyosung before , might expect to see it. I’m not too familar with Spain Emission laws as i am not a resident there but i would imagine that because its the EU, there might be a little stricter than UK, as currently in UK , it can be removed on carb models but i usually don’t encourage taking it off on EFi bikes (Some EFi bikes moan if it senses the exhaust sensors notice a change in air quality but i digress)
I don’t have a picture but the throttle cable needs a “hook” the metal pieces you are trying to attach, then it hangs on the carb body as every hyosung carb i have own , its “choke” and “throttle” assemblies are usually mounted to the exterior of the carb body (that is assuming the last keepers didn’t bodge it!)
Can we see it ? and what parts about it does it not work? or you just mean a totally dead unit (wont even turn on) ?
I don’t exactly have RX125-D manual as I have personally moved to different cloud storage , so i will upload more manuals soon on this forum.
Why not post some pictures of your situation or explain what’s going on ? (Pictures really help also)
I have also attached the older RX125 manual below, (it has a wiring diagram) (Hyosung didn’t change too many things on older RX models vs the later RX125D models) , so “most” information should be correct but like i said , i don’t know the full story of your bike hence I was asking what’s up with it.
Do you have any laws in your country that require it ? (ie. emissions check)
Sometimes it cleans the soot from exhaust (a little bit!)It sounds stupid but what if you could make a custom metal bracket to join the dash unit to the fork unit like “extension”. then use a rubber shroud (“suzuki harness boot”) to hide the plugs and wires from rain?
Basically the bar is too high for the OEM tacho to reach the fork clamp unit ?
But the dashboard still works ?
Closing this topic as we have identified it for you based on the email you have sent us 🙂
PS. Don’t forget about “intake pipe – orings!”
Intake Pipe O-RING (Inlet Boot Seals) x2 – GV125 GT125 RX125 GV250 GT250 Hyosung
Hey,
On Amazon, you will need something like this below:
It comes in many names
- Stand Lift
- Cruiser Jack
- Motorcycle
- Hydraulic Lift
- Motorcycle Scissor Stand
Those would be ideal for motorcycle cruisers/bobbers with low profile exhausts
Do you have pictures you can attach here so we can see what changes you have been doing ?
Closing this topic as we have identified it for you based on the email you have sent us 🙂
Likely 190mm end to end but you would be better off to measure the distance between the engine end —– to —- foot shifter end.
That way it is more accurate as the “gtr” allow another plate to go on top of it , then re-extend the footrests even further , and since there is multiple position holes in the “gtr” plates, it can affect how long you want the shift rod.It should be okay to slide a small section of the rubber grip off , because i am sure the bars for hyosung are “hollow” inside to allow mods like “Bar Ends”
They “always” had Factory Bar ends on their older GV bikes and older GT bikes. It was only the GTR (sports bikes) that had “solid” clip on bars that did not allow bar ends to be fitted.
So think if you slice the rubber ends off , you should be OK. But i would advise to buy some spare “grip rubbers” for throttle and clutch incase the old ones are being difficult. I doubt Hyosung uses “pro-taper” grips anyway.
Thank you very much Marcelo very grateful
No problem, share the pics or make a journal when you get her 🙂
Ride safe!
There are no known faults at this time for the GV300S , and infact , for preventative maintenance, as soon as you get it do this:
- X Ring chain
- NGK Caps
- Have a spare ignition coil (but rarely fails as of yet as its a DELPHI unit)
- Good laser plugs , dont buy Iridium IX Blue Box ones or just use regular CR8E (not CR7 , not CR9)
- Ignore amateurs on facebook, as they always give the brand a bad name as if other brands don’t have their own strange woes lol
- Use Motul Factory Line Coolant (any motorcycle that is liquid cooled)
- use Michelin Tyres
It is hyosung’s first sub 600cc Liquid Cooled vtwin, with CBS/ABS & Delphi Electronics, I think the bike will do okay long term 🙂
We even have 2 members that did tutorials on how to do valve clearances also
I’d say go get her!
Hey,
Sorry that’s happened to you , it is not uncommon but it can be a result of an electrical spike caused by the wanning regulator or stator unit , and or possibly the CMOS battery that’s inside the dash unit (some models) , that fails , so usually it makes the dash reset to zero odd , or sometimes infinity.If the unit records 94K , there is no way to “down-clock” it backwards (sometimes its to stop sellers in used market lying about its true mileage (ammount of miles the bike has seen road vs replaced engine vs new clocks etc but replacements do happen i know incase old parts were faulty)
You could probably have to buy a used low mile clock unit that is closer to the bike’s true mileage?
