♠️ M77
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Usually any of the 650 EFI manuals advise how to get a code , then again if it is blinking , count the blinks and let us know.
That object is the Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) , it runs when the bike fires up , then controls idling and general very low speed throttle behavior. It is called a Stepper Motor.
Remove the part and show us what it is .
Also , remove battery for a few hours to clear the energy left from the harness that might feed the ecu accidently while off.
Then plug in again – Go to the forum , download the service manual for the ECU that matches your bike or year model. There is explanations how to get a fault code. If it won’t start, the ECU throws a code.
If the FI light is blinking = the ECU is throwing a fault code. Count the blinks when it doesn.
CHE comes on when Kill Switch is ON = That is normal. It means the bike won’t start until the red button is pressed down towards you instead of front tyre.
CHE disappears , the Fuel Pump starts priming , if it is cranking with the FI light still on, sometimes it just means your injection system , wires around there or plugs near ECU or ECU issues.
EFi bikes not easy compared to carb bikes, so trying to get a code helps tell you which sensor is stopping the bike from starting.
If something is getting hot simply from cranking = there is a problem there or potential fire hazard.
Next time…
Do this. Key on and off three times within 2 seconds.
Then it will blink. Count the blinks. It is the ECU tell you a fault code.
Eg.
10 blinks(pause)2 blinks(pause)10blinks(pause) 1 blink
Equals 10 – 2 – 10 – 1
Translates to Injector at cylinder #1 for example.
Further instructions are in every service manual i have uploaded on this site for 650s. Example, it will explain how to get injector #1 running.
Somtimes it will also blink
10 8 5 2 10
10 8 5 2 10
Example = Neutral sensor , Clutch Switch (no bypassing) , side stand (bypass yes) OR the rider is NOT holding clutch in before pressing start.
Regards
It’s a 2016 model with the digital fuel gage. Thought this could be the case with compatibility with the electrics 😅
Your particular model requires that exact digital dash , as the older versions will not work with your digital speed sensor too.
GT = Too much headache and their “fuel gauge” will say EMPTY when tank is full and FULL when tank is empty! (GV uses reversed sensors!)
yes sir , delete it all off the bike.
Usually for the “engine side” , we sell these blanks below:
EGR Valve Blanking Plate / AiS Delete Block Off Kit – Various Hyosung Carb Models
Then STEP 2 ===
Go to the airbox –> Make sure the airbox does NOT have open ports , block them. Those ports are what feeds those external emissions canisters on your bike.Step 3 ===
See the “clutch arm” behind the rear engine ? –> There is a thick 10-15mm port , feed a hose there and make sure it goes to the airbox open port of the same diameterThis step 3 pipe is either overflow to airbox (which is what EFI bikes do anyway later on) or you can overflow it to the road (and block the airbox port) like below diagram
If you don’t have Hose #13 , you will find it most Hyosung Engines at your local dealer in your state or ask any major breaker in usa that has a Hyosung and quote the part number 13870H29B00 it is called “Crank Case Breather Pipe” and it has a “SLIT” at the bottom to stop road debris being sucked in to the crank! (very important)
Does your state require you to have emissions controller on the bike , as that is what they are essentially (fake emissions spoofing but sucking fresh air from the airbox in to the exhaust pipes via the engine heads.)
Here in UK, we delete all that junk as it doesn’t benefit the bike whatsoever , we even have a few rare efi bikes that didn’t even have that from factory and some pre-2005 models.
If it is a requirement , let us know
I believe you may have to fork out that much but….
Can we verify a few things first….
– What year is the GV ?
– Did the old clocks have a “Classic Fuel Guage” in the middle or did it have a “DIGITAL LCD” fuel gaugeClassic Dash = Fuel gauge is yellow with a real needle sweeping up. and it uses a manual speedo drive with a cable going straight up to the dashboard from the left side of the front wheel
LCD = Fuel Gauge is like a black & white TV with text , it lights up WHITE , the speedo mph uses an “Electric Speed Sensor”
If in doubt, grab a picture showing us what your old GV dash looked like if possible!
Hyosung might have keeped the same body shape around 2006-2017 but they changed electrics internally, plus GV generally isn’t backwards compatible with GT clocks, they made sure of that without the rider being an electric wizard to re-work it.
The floats and the needle seats assembly controls the bike from idling all the way to 5th gear , sometimes 5th gear is so thirsty if the float doesn’t rise or lower properly the main jets feel like they can’t reach the fuel as it drains by engine consumption
or check fuel puimp and the fuel tap , sometimes the fuel tap in the tank is the one holding up the bike under full load (bike is moving on the road)
Regards
If it fits why not! The GVs tend to have smaller trays to hold batteries than GT bikes.
If the floats give you drama , go back to factory float, factory float seat well , factory float needle. Start there.
If using new floats , try with their needle seats that came with the gasket kit.
This is because there could be a slight variance of 1mm height difference , the carb needle may have a soft bounce as OEM floats a tad little smaller and more curved , the aftermarket floats would be a little more “boxy shape” with their needles from gasket kit having stronger spring (maybe 2%)
Also the float seats have a HOLE size relative to the needle it is using.
Ie. OEM float seat would say 1.0 , the carb rebuild kit version would probably say 1.5 – Hole size might allow more fuel in easier as long as it is used with it’s supplied needle (the needle may be a little wider to cover the hole) like 0.5mm wider (very marginal!)
Just my thoughts at 10am , so sorry for any grammatical errors , keep us posted!
Hmmm,
– If you take the carbs off 1 more time => Check the float is 7mm or (7.5 absolute max) and lift it up , if you lift up the float it should rise from 7mm to around 14-17mm ish
- Set the carb mixture screws to zero (full stop clockwise) then then then anti clockwise 2.5 times on each carb. Leave it there forever.
- Check the slide needles and follow this tutorial (click here)
Re-assemble parts together (make sure carb is firmly on the airbox first!) , then drop the whole thing down to the rubber intake pipes , make sure they don’t try to squash them down, this avoid the rubber intakes from splitting up as they are truly rare parts these days.
The carb marrying the airbox first guarantees there should be no leaks at the top.
when it is running , carefully in the open area (ventilated spaces) spray carb cleaner on the intake rubber pipes to see if you have any air leaks that will affect the overall running of the bike.
Can you show us a picture ? (we probably call them in a different name in UK) , so i can make my response accurate for you.
You could always mofidy the stock cannon, to be half the size , and rivet the end tip again, this allows a chance to remove some of the “silencing” parts inside or drill a bigger bore at the end tip so it is a little more freeflowing and louder
Creative work here, but just a thought!
See the right mirror ? It has a NUT on its stem , twist the nut so that it screws upwards , so that more of the mirror’s thread is exposed.
Try that ?You can put a whole R6 front end fork as the older r6 should have 51mm tubes but….the issue is that the r6 wheel won’t be compatible with the Hyosung speedo drive, so you may have to use the GT rim and some possible alterations to the spaces to make sure everything aligns for the calipers not to grind the discs. Also you will end up using a whole R6 brake system from master cylinder down to the calipers themselves as Hyosung calipers won’t fit correctly on R6 forks unless you modify mounts!
It is possible you may have to replace the whole “Top Nut” section of the fork if keeping the 650 0ne (not unless you strip the fork and see a part broken inside (one way to find out!)
Hey!
I see the why you want the rack to stay there , looks nice as a solo seat mod too!I think you want to keep the metal plate that locks the main rider seat — I see the metal rear rack is a bit too wide to catch the 2 main bolts but it’s okay….
Get 6x m6 penny washers. 3x per side. And get 2 m6 bolts not too long and 2 m6 nuts for the under side of the plastic.
The 2x washers act as spacers under the rack , drill a hole thru the metal rack, then screw a bolt with a penny washer on top.
Now you have 4 bolts across holding it down.
To hide the area , hmmm , how about get a thick strip of leather or similar that’s weather resistant like the seat. Cut around it and glue it down ?
I don’t have a spare seat for your upholstorer to remodel it but , they can always remodle your seat to have a bit more extension to the back (assuming the pillion seat won’t return anytime soon!)
@Amit – No picture , attach so we see what you mean.
Hey,
If the master cylinder is lower than the clutch perch sort of like —___ staggered fashion being shown by your mirrors.
Look on amazon for something like “m10 mirror” extender (it’s a hollow nut that screws in between the mirror and the master cylinderYou may need to use 1x m10 washer on the clutch side to even things out.
Not something that’s around “plug & play” style , it’s something like a custom job where it involves getting something like “Domino Quck Action” throttle” and you have to fabricate your own custom throttle cable as obviously the oem throttle cable only is made specifically for the OEM throttle tube and clips itself under the kill switch block.
15T front is OK , just less acceleration but if you do long rides rather than short city springs, you may get better MPG – Sprocket code is JT 1554
Does this clutch perch suit you , it’s ours and will fit yours no problem ,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256243615477Just message us to include the screw below
This perch on ebay doesn’t have a clutch switch, you have a model that is pre-efi with the classic twin gauges , so i assume it doesn’t have it ?
I would mention other hyosung sites but they are scam pages , as too many people have complained (the ones with white & blue backgrounds are all Shopify clones of the same person who owns it)
