♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Not shown in the manual but i got this image from a parts database , and whatever number you see , let us know what you are not sure of.
Someone on this forum bought a 650R that had a Suzuki (can’t remember which one) CDI and suzuki harness crossed-joined up with hyosung one, it was so messy he was forced to get the Jap CDI which Hyosung uses and matching Hyosung harness. The bike was not interested to know alternatives.
So in the end , he ended up just getting a 650 CDI for Hyosung (not suzuki) and another 650 harness for Hyosung 650R
If i knew a direct fit CDI that runs smoothly on the GT650 , I would make a sticky topic about it.
Look for my reply with a picture here
This is the correct way because the manual has errors with carb information,
Adjustments can be done incrementally on the float tangs
Also, clear pipe , drain bowl loosened , look at the float bowl has _______ lines like that ______ , thats fuel height , you can have the clear hose against it to see if the fuel level is the same or carb is overflow on one pot or the other.
Yup that’s the one, please let me know how much you want for it.
It’s a bit too dark to make out what is going on, so the dealer may just replace the coolant reservoir or the overflow system. – Hopefully there isn’t “air” locks in the system.
They say “common” because the bikes come in a crate that is dry of liquids sometimes, so some dealers assemble fluids in to the bike including fuel , and do pre-tests before sitting in the showroom floor. Or it was run-in poorly , Every Hyosung that is under 600 miles from new should have a FULL once over by the dealer to ensure everything works as intended otherwise Hyosung would ask questions as to why they should send parts if the dealer didn’t keep an eye , unless the owners abused it or didn’t follow the “Owners Manual” that comes with the bike itself. There is variables….
I sell more clutch parts for the 125 EFI because i have Garages emailing me asking me for baskets that owners abused (trying to wheelie a vtwin or whatever) or just being neglectful.
If there is a bike that has not gone through proper checks at the factory , it is Hyosung to fix that and do re-calls!
Believe me, a dash (that is all black) even black RPM gauge = will NOT live long on the Gen 2 harness
You may also end up damaging the Gen 2 harness , no where on earth to buy a new harness now as Hyosung stopped making carb models.
Hell we can’t even run a Gen2 250cc clocks in to 125cc , the bike doesn’t want to know lol.
Like i said, email me if you need it then i will get to it. It know it is there , it is just hidden away in a remote location miles away. It’s got 5K on the clocks , its just i had to deal with higher priority things this week.
This is the one that has ORANGE LCD with WHITE RPM gauge.
Strange , visit ManualsLIB website again and use GV250 or GV125 service manual yes the 125cc version uses the same clearances as its 250cc sister. The system used is “Suzuki Cam Under Bucket” (Shims in a Tappet)” , so its definitely advised to use the service manual.
If fuel is coming out of that straw, you have jammed float seats (so replace the entire float pin and float seat even, since the float pin has a spring inside) , then use make sure floats are 7mm height and it will raise up to about 13-17mm when the bike is running
However, look at my reply in this topic
if it is adamant the float system is OK, then look to check the slides (diaphragms) are not stuck as fuel will come of the Slide Needle as the revs go up
Also check the slide needles are in correct position using this guide
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
I will have a Gen 2 , send me an email. But it may be a few days before I can get to it, but it is there yes.
Gen 1 for Gen 1 = Gen 1 WILL go up in smoke if forced in to Gen 2 , trust me!
If it still has warranty, it would be best to arrange for the dealer to pick it up themselves since they have to honor the warranty without you having to fork out money but it does suck you live apart from them , and ofcourse, some dealers do not cover transport fees, so it’s always worth asking them!
If there is a coolant leak , how are you sure the water pump is at fault ? how about the radiator itself , hoses or even the radiator cap or reservoir bottle ? …just making sure its not a misdiagnosis to save you replacing the wrong part when it was something small all along. But if its the pump, that’s serious.
Any pictures? (dry up the bike first and clean it off, then stop the engine as soon as the leak appears, take a picture)
Those vacuum routing methods are good. Each cylinder has enough vacuum to run each tap and pump independently.
Check “ManualsLIB” website , they have the WorkShop Manual which has cartoon diagrams of how to do clearances. All Hyosung 250cc vtwins are the same (Carb & EFI until 2020) when it comes to valve adjustments.
Puddle in airbox = If its OIL (it could be blowby gasses mixed with oil during heat and finally condensed in to an oily liquid
If its fuel , it will be very obvious and smell strong of it and usually pure fuel will cut through the oil and turn the oil in to a water like substance , it may appear black or almost colourless. Check air filter. Again, i could guess as i can’t see what’s going on, so you should examine the texture of that liquid.
Some engine gasses are OK, but a flood like puddle in the airbox isn’t good. Either oil or fuel.
Engine Compression is very good!
TPS = It looks OK , the manual says replace it if it causes problems because we can’t manually make adjustments to it.EGR = Just make sure the actual engine cylinders are blanked there.
Then Front & Rear Rubber Intake pipes from the cylinder heads feed the Tank Tap and Fuel Pump
Check airbox has an extra hole for the EGR is blanked off.
Do the valve clearances and see how it behaves.
If you remove the carbs again and the intake pipes are wet inside, you may have a slow leak in to cylinders due to jammed floats or float seat assemblies needing a replacement, could be what is happening to the rear cylinder of the engine.
2018 is when the Fuel Injection models came out in europe , then UK in 2019 hence Korea made carb models until 2017
So all carb models are identical (2001-2017)
If there is a 2018 GV125 with carbs in UK, it just means it was registered late (2017 machine with 2018 plates etc)
Seems like I am out of luck, unless you know a tuner that can help. I’ve emailed a dozen shops and nobody seems to be able to help. Follow-up question. Will the exhaust heat shields (consisting of 5 pieces) from a 2016 GV650 Aquilla Pro fit my 2008 GV650 EFI Anniversary Edition? From the photos they look identical but I’m unable to find anything online to verify whether they are a direct bolt-on or not
As for exhaust pieces, there is some variations yes but do you have 2 pictures for us to see what you’re looking at and what you have currently ?
Hyosung GT650 shock fits bolt-in , and look at ebay USA (loads of 650 parts there)
You would rather use a 650 shock because its made stronger than the 125 ones and sits a “tiny bit” higher (meaning the bike lifts up its back end a little more)
Also , check your bearings under dog bones where shock links to , because sometimes it is the bearing at the bottom that rattles the shock!
If the battery was cooked 2x , i would be concerned that it is positive for a voltage overspike in that past that has possibly affected the circuitry of the CDI unit. Meaning you may need another CDI in the worst case.
Stator = New one would be a good idea (the pulse sensor) is what tells the CDI what to do and what to spark, it may be reading OK when its off but may act haywire once it warms up , hence the haywire behavior in the cyclinders. The sparking system starts from that flywheel pulse sensor (which means the replacement of the whole stator unit as a last resort too)
Mosfet is a good reg, keep it there.
If there is no “igniter” box , that runs through the coil-pack wires , then your harness may be a simpler version as some 650 carbies do have an extra box (or mystery object along the frame) that helps with the coil-packs. If not, yours may be all directly controlled by the CDI unit itself (subject to the stator pulser being in order)
Japan Unit = They rarely fail , so i would be surprised if it has failed. Have you checked eBay AU for a spare one that’s verified working?
Did you see any other black boxes ?
Remember what i said in the previous reply about checking rear coil wires leading up to the black box
It sounds silly, what if you bought all new sensor ? and see if the problem continues?
Also, check manualsLIB online for your 2012 model to get a service manual, there is a page that allows you to check if the connector near the ECU is breaking up signals ?
I know the 2012 is a DAEWOO with a very large single plug , the 2009-2012 really do have sensetive ECU connector plugs. It is perharps the ECU fault or the ECU itself is not able to reliable read the harness leading to the sensor.
You can test for example = Purple wire (example) from the O2 sensor connector and test the same color near the ECU plug , to see if the circuit is broken using a multi meter or if it is acting haywire if you move the harness around (incase of kinks)
Do you have a picture of the CDI unit ? (some 650’s have 1 or 2 black boxes) (If it has 2 black boxes , one is for the general bike and the other one is more for ignition control)
Also, trace the wires from the rear coil => match their wire colours to the black box it ends up
Download the service manual (I uploaded many in this forum) so find one that matches your bike, and use a pocket meter to test the CDI unit
Ask that company if they have something for your ECU the Jap one, send proof of it. If they ain’t sure, then its likely due to the bike being some anniversary edition.
2009-2010’s use the Daewoo ECU’s (problematic ecu’s!) =
Ask them if they do DELPHI which is current or yours
DELPHi = a lot of changes to your motor!
