♠️ M77
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take off the harness , look for any kinks in the wiring that may cause the loss of power going to the lines connecting the back light clusters.
Speaking of back , the rear usually has a baby harness , that joins the main loom, as seen below:
Do you want to check ebay for used cylinders and pistons ? I have loads there worth a rebuild to try!
I will get a cylinder “head” (valves) soon , listed up there but im sure your valves are okay , if they need rebuilding , the first thing is usually the valve seats that drip out oil in to plugs
Don’t forget you need engine gaskets too (can’t re-use old ones)
be sure to spare a day to clean up the harness and look for any damage that may cause kinks or shorting
the last keeper is a moron! 122 ? wow not even a 300cc will run well with that jet size, that’s almost 650cc teritorry!
The factory mixtures is around 3 turns front and 3.5 turns rear , though 2.5F / 2/75R is OK.
As long as the 650R uses original mounts, then get XRT ones (made in korea & official hyosung approved) , the chinese ones WILL bend or sway and let you down! They can’t handle the braking needs of a 650cc and plus the clutch side will eat cables. If you can’t find XRT levers , try whyGoStock in USA who have a source that makes the 650 levers on US soil.
Nice investment in to the endoscope lol, we use them sometimes but not always! – Ride very slowly and remember, first 600 miles are important to “run-in” the engine gentle
hey the sensor would be directly under the yellow plate where the fuel tank sits on and where the rider seat also slots in to.
Welcome!
Greetings from the north west 😉
Looking forward to see your pics and journal
Sorry ,
I meant the Engine from the GV itself was running wasn’t it ? = leave it in the GT frame.Just focus on getting a CDI unit for the GT bike. GT harness & GT CDi will run a GV engine.
As long as the GV was a carb motor. If the GV was EFI (2008 onwards), then you would need to take the carb flywheel and carb stator in to the GV engine to make it run.
Long short = Leave your setup as it is, just swap the CDI back to a GT one.
Then check for sparks.
A GV harness & GV CDI will be complicated to run on a GT frame. (different electronics including the dash!)
Engine (whichever) requires the GT CDI to run on a GT harness.
The motor is fine, it will be the CDI unit. GV is for GV
Yes totally fine! although it will be a low profile! so side walls appear slimmer , so try to avoid doing knee down this icy season coming up!
Happy days on the MOT!
And when is a project ever finished ? Lol., there is always something to do 😉
Sadly , you will have to get the flywheel off , because the chain may end up hooking on to 8 teeth and 2 are missing! – you will end up stripping the crank teeth as soon as compression hits!
So it is safer to get the rotor off. Same with the clutch side!
To keep cam chains from falling, have a bungee cord pull the chain and hook the other end of bungee to ceiling of your garage
Burning Oil = Piston Rings . Scored Barrels , or Valve SEATS dripping oil in to piston chambers (hence probably sooty plugs) or simply rings on the way out with the barrel.
125 psi = You’re literally at the limit as to what hyosung considers a time to rebuild engine. Generally 150-175 psi is expected.
Picture of your current one ?
And have you tried ebay EU ?
Hey & welcome!
Honestly , the sky is the limit but off my brain , this what i could say in my opinion (all are important), and whatever else not mentioned is considered “upgrades” to your desires.
Valve Clearances
Piston De-carbon
Stator Unit (if not in OEM spec)
Regulator (first electric object) (don’t cheap out on aliexpress trash)Tyres = OEM ones are suicide bricks in the rain
Brake Lines = Goodridge Stainless
Brake Fluid
Brake Pads = EBC Sintered Metal
Headlight Bulbs (old ones go yellow and get less bright) = OSRAM NightBreakers are great halogens (We’re not allowed HID’s in UK or LED bulbs)
HID’s too fussy of a job. LED’s make me want to throw spanner at the right (too bright & glaring but does not travel far enough) Halogen wins for now. Unless Hyosung makes a headlight out of LED’s & road legal like Audi R8
Carb Overhaul = (whatever is in it , ie fresh jets , fresh slides (diaphragms) , good clean up
Manifold Intake Pipe Rubber O-Rings
Air Filter
Spark Plugs = Stay stock CR8E or LASER ones. IX-Iridium are rubbish.
NGK Spark Plug caps = too important as OEM caps crack a lot & leak sparks out!
Motul 7100 or 300V oil (or Silkolene Pro 4 Oil) = Recommended oils.
Oil Filter
To make it last longer, i change oil every 1,000 miles = Bottles are cheap but a replacement engine isn’t, call me OCD lol.X-Ring chain is good, stick with JT or Japanese brands = You WILL snap with chinese chains.
Sprockets = stick with JT or SunStar Japan = All other brand sprockets are just rubbish, they slowly chew up the front engine shaft!
However PRO-X , Renthal are trusted sprocket brands too.
