♠️ M77
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Worn tyres, that rear is a monster.
He did a lot of trail riding or he has been going slicky trying to wheelie the thing lol. I do like the chunkyness of it though! – It’s no Van-Van though!
Sorry the site didn’t let this post through, how strange, it’s only Karry looking blue!
I like the name though lol, Karry the Karion , carrying on (no thanks to the last keeper’s neglect towards her!)
How is the project going so far then ? And trust me i’ve see worse tatty looking GTR125s sold for scraps , i won’t digress.
I once bought a comet for £60 off a lass, no MOT since 2yrs , and so much neglect and many , many bodge jobs taken. Hell, the factory tyre looks like it wasn’t changed since 2003! – I’m not even done with it, but it’s proving to be a lovely donor to ride around nowdays , just a shame it burnt half my wallet lol.
Hello,
Do you think think you can upload a pic of the rear spark plug and front plug (Use ADD MEDIA) in your reply box.
Or visit IMGUR. Com , then upload there => Copy FORUM BBCODE => and paste link on this reply box so the site will download image automatically.
This because we have to see whats going on with your carb (lean vs rich) and its easier for me to get a more accurate answer.
We need to attack the following:
- Carb Is dirty (Pilot Jets, Enrichment Tube which cant be removed, Main Jet unit , Slides and whole of carb)
- Make carb upside down on the table. Floats must be 7mm high each (height). It really matters. That controls how much fuel each bowl gets
- I hope and hope the mixture screws are not played with. Its the abyss if someone doesnt know how to correct them. Ill only discuss these if we need to. Plug pictures first and carb clean everywhere, every little hole (hard)
- Maybe it is possible to have electric issues (Coils, Plugs are tired n useless, regulator issue, battery size/too old/not enough)
- Filter for fuel is dirty or rotting lines inside the pipe => easy to clog the carb.
- Air Intake manifolds loose or Intake O RINGS under the engine rotted? >>> spray carb cleaner under airbox, under carb, under manifolds to engine heads.
- The tiniest air leak makes it hard for the carb. Will make 1 cylinder cold and other hot. So if revs change when spray the areas above^^^ then you have another issue that spot.
I really hope the coils can survive a bit longer because i am being let down by royalmail and the corona crap. So i will be delayed by extra few days to a week!😢😢
While you wait , see if you can respond to every query i said above ^. And update us. 👍
Hey 👋
Most car and bike makers are allowed have speedos read that way. The percentages vary and some speedos can get optimistic!
In the case of hyosungs, i have a few . 10% is about normal. 77mph would read 70ish gps. If i am riding 33mph around the street, a speedtrap on the light poles would display 30mph.
There isnt a way to make a hyo speedo red exactly what a GPS says 🤷♂️
Hey welcome!
Sounds like the bike has been through hell and back that’s for sure! My goodness.
Good on you for trying to resurrect it back to its original state, though i understand there will be some days of cursing! (tip the swear jar later!)
To answer you , yes there is some few things that were shared with some other hyosungs but not much. We don’t know the year of your bike because some single piston hyosungs either had the legacy single camshaft engine and the later models had the dual camshaft heads , sometimes even the electronics vary slightly . Having specifics of your bike would be ideal, you can always attach an image in this topic of how the engine looks etc,
There is a 2MB limit per image size but a site called picresize can scale down any big images down to forum sized 2MB ones , or use imgur . com website (no size limit) => copy the “FORUM BBCODE” share links, and paste them here , the site will pull the images remotely even.
Also what kind of parts where you planning to change? you are correct to say there isn’t many on the UK roads at present but much more worldwide , ie the EU where some countries still have 125s . Parts etc depend on what it is what. If i can’t get a part from the trade myself , i can always point to your nearest dealer (incase they break old ones) or another one closer to me.
If i’ve learned anything while fixing and stripping hyosungs, some things were done inhouse that couldn’t be found on other brands that’s for sure.
Not sure how to reply as I tried to read your comment, so it’s hard to give you a specific answer lol.
Either you adjust the rearsets on the frame or else there is internal issues (ie. cables, bent gear rods, clutch basket inside the bike worn down, plates, springs etc)
A faulty gearbox is the last thing you want, that’s a whole other mission to fix.
The clutch perch mount slides out to the left, but yes drop the switch gear, then you may have to get creative in removing the rubber grip unless rubber is cut for a fresh rubber grip.
What’s the issue with the standard perch mount that hyosung uses for clutch levers ? –
The only thing i would say is don’t ever try the chinese perch mounts lest the clutch cables will be eaten frequently (many can attest to that over FB lol), hence my hyos never changed the official mounting unit.
The bike checks your kickstand switch and also the clutch lever switch before starting.
It is to prevent you starting in gear by accident or false neutrals.
Also when you ride around, its always checking that you pulled the clutch in before changing gear. if that switch was to fail while riding etc, it will cut off the sparks and bike comes to a halt. That for sure i know lol. So i wouldn’t bypass the clutch switch, just keep the wires under the airbox free from water / corrosion and all is well.
Assuming “brake cal” in your replies means “caliper”
Ordering a new caliper from trade won’t be cheap , but i will have a caliper rebuilt and tested to list on my ebay in a few weeks as i have had other work to do in the way.Otherwise, you can always browse the /shop/ section to get caliper rebuild kits to save the old , could still work out cheaper than ordering a new one anyway.
Some folk on FB marketplace don’t always test or act honest about their bits tbh, so use caution and ask them if the pistons , pins, etc etc are seized up.
Wonderful Steve, that’s one less TLC job ticked off 😉 Stay steady out there.
Hi guys anyone stripped a hyosung gt125r 2016 engine down? Mine needs a new Crank as three tiny teeth that the timing chain goes to has snapped. Wasn’t running at the time,as just pressed the starter. How easy is it to replace.
Yikes 🙁 , that’s not good! – If you need a good crank , cam chains (which should be on my ebay), NEW tensioners, gasketing , etc send a message to be sorted, unless you’re good to go.
The valve heads & cylinders would come out ofcourse, then the longer task is splitting the halves of the engine bottom end. You would be best with common bike engine crank splitting multi-tools. It won’t be ABC since you want to be slow and remember where the gearing bits went etc where if something falls out while splitting the motor. Taking a lot of pictures helps!
Remember the hyosung uses BOND 1215 to seal the middle halves of the crank casings.
Downloading one of the vtwin hyosung service manuals on the forum gives you insight of a process of splitting the engine
(650 is not the same engine as 125 but principal job is similar , and only the 125 + 250 use same timings)
(the 125 especially 2016 uses a slimmer flywheel , just look at the shop gallery of its stator kit, a tool for it was needed)clutch side is not the same as 250 either (smaller)
but you said “crank teeth” this is assumed the front chain where the problem was anyway rather than the rear side behind the clutch basket (different situation)I’ve stripped working engines many times to sell spares , so trust me, it’s not a job you want to rush on lol.
O so all back together now an sorted pritty much am start a let a run for a bit since puting air box back with clean fliter shes not likeing to rev much in face almost chokes a self out would i be correct in thinking or mayby doing away with air box fit some k&n dome filters ? As i sed befor the exhoust dose not look standard to me and a problem left side indicating dose not work so thats the switch right lol thank you again for all you help you must be sick of me
Because its a CV carb that is also upside down, Mikunis do not want pod filters, they hate it. Every hyo owner has tried and failed, believe me the airbox wins.
The best mod for air is dropping a K&N Kit with uprated jets because it flows extra air, you don’t want to lean out (that rear motor gets hot, you may lose piston due to leaning out!)
The overflow can face the ground if it has no where to hook to , but caution to always check before riding so that nothing is leaking .
When i say leaking, you want to make sure the carb is cleaned out properly and the floats are 7mm max.
Put the carb on table with the floats facing the sky, the float will be 7mm high, NO LESS and NO MORE. Them things control how much fuel comes in from 0mph to top gear.
When the bike acts boggy (in any shape or form) that is always almost a clogged fuel system (dirty filter, lines rotting inside which are too old, carb has clogged particles because there is many holes, the 125 jets have tiny holes, so it doesn’t take much to clog them, also consider the air filter, any filter beyond 12K old must be changed or you see the white/yellow filter turn dirty it will feel like it’s chocking with less air flow)
If the entire fuel system was OK (including the tap and pump) then your last war for boggyness is usually the electrics. Deal with the fuel side before attacking electrics but electrics vs fuel will be as good as each other.
Okay, that orange tank, the bottom 2-twin outlets must go to the frame tap.
I can’t see your frame tap, but i will assume this…… The “frame tap” sends fuel to the filter ====> then filter to the rear pump
I can’t see your tap to make a judgetment of how many outlets it has on it. Some are 2 INPUT => 1 Output or 2 Input + 1 Output + 1 Overflow via carb.
Which moves to my next point below
See the pipes under the float bowl covers == 2 BIG ONES facing up ^ the sky joined by a single hose?
That is normally going BACK to the tap (incase your carb is overflow, it returns fuel back to the tap or the bike fell on its side, it acts as overflow)
Later model carbs don’t need this setup because they overflow in a different way
So in summary, you definitely have a bike with more classic set up and older carb than the images you see in my tutorials but you aint far off.
Remember my earlier replies , i said where your pump has a grey pipe feeding your carb, = that is the correct one. Fuel must not enter the carb except via the single gray line from the pump (with springs over top of HT wires, etc…).
When you use picresize, please try 1,000 x 1,000 pixels or 1.5MB per picture so that it blows up nice n clear when i zoom. I know you’re on the phone and sorry to make you go the extra mile.
From your reply in the other thread…
Thats answered some of my questions but my tank dose not have that it has 2 pips that come down to a fule tap with one connect on top and 2 on the bottom so am guessing set up will be different? Or the guy i bought the bike off was laughing all the way to the bank
Now, because you have a 2003-2004 1st generation tank that is meant for a GT Naked older ones. The naked comets usually have an ON/OFF manual tap on the side of the frame (left). I don’t see it in your pics or it was removed.
I have one, those tanks didn’t have an “automatic vacuum” tap that’s on later Comets or ALL GTR125’s (05 onwards)Now then, you have 2-twin outlets close to each other under the tank.
_ Outlet #1 = Fit a mini pipe there.
_ Outlet #2 = Fit a mini pipe there again.
Now outlet 1 & 2 will join with ===> a plastic or brass T-Junction (get one)===>This T-Junction ====> will have a 3rd port free ===> connect that to the fuel filter that’s going to the pump.
Remember, the pic you uploaded…
Don’t remove the pipe that’s going to the carb, it is correct there.
Also, where your filter is connected, leave it there, it’s correct.
Thirdly, there is a pipe that’s from the PUMP going to the ENGINE MANIFOLDS. That is correct. That’s vacuum feed (see this tutorial here, for clarification)Now, go back to your engine manifolds (those rubber pipes under the carbs), there should be ONLY 1 PIPE going to the rear pump only.
Any extra pipe that is joined to the rubber manifolds ===> just blank them tightly with a bung/thickbolt & clamp. You don’t have a “vacuum TAP under the tank”, so there is no need for extra pipes.
There is something (or not) on the bike that controls fake emissions aka egr as its infamously called. Throw it in the bin, it’s a useless device and the bike won’t miss it.
Now , you have wayyyy less headache dealing with all kinds of pipes.
Make sure…….
– Engine (front or rear) has the metal EGR pipe blocked.
– AIRBOX (under it) has the egr hole blocked. I can’t stress this.Take ya time with my reply because this is as good as i can break it down.
Or
If you have a “manual ON/OFF tap” (which is mounted on the LEFT frame…..) , then yes……. 2-twin outlets under the tank must go there….. the filter joins the frame TAP also…
Otherwise What i have been saying all above ^ is supposed to be a temp solution, as it’s ideal to have an ON/OFF tap mounted to the frame or a tank that has an automatic-tap (vacuum operated). Not ideal to have fuel always (on) A manual tap turns it off when bike isn’t in use or vacuum operated tap also does that too when engine shuts off, but i am digressing too much, i may go off track with this reply , this will be a discussion for another time.
It’s 1am as i write this, so excuse me for digressing, some things i had to clarify once more…. but good luck!
Hey guys am reqli sturggling to get my fule line pips back on i looked at pics confus3d me even more i have to meany pips or not enough i tired i have 2 pips on my tank going to fule tap one on top just dnot know where i have gone wrong so confued I will try that pic resizeing site when i get back home an post a few pics i am absolutely stumped
Don’t sweat fella. Just copy exactly what i am doing in the pics
Failing that, just use the picresize website to scale down your images to under 2mb or make them 500×500 pixels so they are forum friendly and i will see what’s going. More than 1 pic helps.
Don’t forget, there is also this blue link here , that shows how to deal with AIR LINES , separately.
Good luck!
carbs haven’t been tuned and it’s running lean, (I don’t know how long it’s been like this)
A good idea to give them a full clean session, and perharps consider improving the mid-range with this tutorial and this one too for main jet sizing guide.
Do not touch the “pilot mixture” screws, its the abyss you may spend weeks sorting it out if unsure what to do, the Korean’s set the mixture just fine. They just put smaller jetting for euro3 stuff (already lean from factory)Any can change or any pipe change = Jetting mandated, save for the pistons from glazing up, if bike gets too hot in summer it may not help the rear motor which is already hotter than front, hence it gets a bigger jet than front (eg. 90 Front / 92.5 rear)
You want the spark plugs nice and dark brown in the middle & without all the threads burnt up blackBought a new project 2016 gtr125 and it comes with a sp engineering slip on ……
will changing to a stock exhaust for the bike make it run better again?Stick a baffle inside the aftermarket can, and if possible make “the baffle hole” about the size of 10p coin (crush, tap, hammer etc, get creative)
When the bike’s gasses escape from a smaller hole the size of that coin, it will pull better low down 100% , top end will still be there too. It doesn’t need a huge hole or it screams away but moves a little slower than before. You can notice this yourself next time you can ride the bike.
Hey,
You will find the copper gasket sets in the /shop/ section or PM me if you would rather have the more basic OEM version (it’s silver, fibre ish kind of material)
The “link pipe hollow gasketing” (where rear joins the bottom) is most likely found in bike shops locally (ring to ask 1st?) , also the pipe diameter matters vs exterior diameter so that it sits inside nicely, it can crumble easily! – I forgot the dimensions off my head the ones hyosung uses for their standard pipes.
If you have stock pipes with the cat-box in the bottom at the middle, normally a welder cuts it off and then adds steel pipes to route the gas flow towards the giant pipe going to the end can. Now you have a pipe system that is as free flow as the black widow types.
End cans = I would keep the internals, and stick a baffle in. The 125 aways pulls better (accel AND top end when the final exit hole is about the size of a 10p coin)
If there is a huge hole with nothing, the bike screams away but goes slower until top gear, going to the hills may annoy him due to slightly less torque. Some gases need to stay in the pipes , it’s a good thing for a vtwin where it makes peak power around 8-10k revs than having to redline it hot all the time (valves!).
Same with the UK with lower capacity versions . Some are not yet registered on the road but made in 2016 in KR, sitting at the UK importer’s base.
KR wouldn’t import any more in UK unless they are EURO4/5 compliant with ABS and all that extra digital jazz.The next one that’s in UK imported for EURO4/5 is the smaller capacity GV125-S for 2019-2020. No news yet on Euro5 capable GT250s to UK!
Any bikes (GT/GV/GTR) still in dealer showrooms most likely to be sold off cheaper as pre-registered 2016 (even if i buy it in 2020 with 0 miles lol)
I’m not in the US, so i have been told there have been some small bike shops closing down and the dealer networks to sell Hyosungs have shrunk a bit. You will expect some old new shop stock to float around and probably sold for cheaper (especially older EURO3 spec bikes)
Least you have many 250s over there, it’s a low number here in UK!
(just many 125cc and 650s on the road now)Hey welcome,
Getting straight to it….i would kill each of what i suggest below:
– clearances (crucial)
– airbox has a leak or inspect manifolds (including the O ring that sits inside manifolds)
– carbs need cleaning (again) because there is a lot of passages inside even the slides need cleaning out.
– You didn’t say if the mixture screws tampered with (shouldn’t be touched to ever or its the abyss for you to get it right yourself )
– Pilots (keep them stock size) – Main Jets probably too rich (you didn’t tell us what jets you put in)
– vacuum line leak?You say the bike runs poorly with a filter on, that’s a little hint of a rich condition
(in otherwords it needs more air without restriction to make it burn whatever is excess or an ignition part has waned or fuel system vs intake system need investigating again/cleaning)If you put standard jets back on with a fresh set of plugs, you will get a little burn trail on the plugs that will tell you mixture state with the filter added on bike. You want it totally brown in the middle AND the circle ring AND the half-moon tip of the plug (whole plug brown = then air vs fuel mixture is okay)
Bright white plug = too lean (or intake leaks.)
very Dark sooty (including all spiral threads looking burnt) = clearances (heat issue) and rich setup (otherwise, ignition parts may not be firing hard or plug has had enough?)See how you get on and let us know!
