♠️ M77
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Hey,
Speaking of the same GTR (regardless of CC size) these are true:
– Rearsets are the same | Same locations too
– Pegs are the same | Same seats too
– Same mirrors | Same clip-on barsWhat the 650R however does differ from 250R is:
– rear shock “may raise” the height of the bike just a little. (different shock)
– front forks have adjustable dampening
– handling wise it has fatter rear tyre and swingarm that’s all (not much!) | front rim is the same all CC’s but 650 gets a 120–front tyre than 110—, as it can do beyond 120 mph anyway.Hope this helps, if unsure, shout away. 👍
I woudn’t focus on the NAKED GT bikes (whatever CC’s) as there will be some variants to even how they look at the front-end from 2003 all the way to present day!
Hey,
Maybe a picture of your situation is ideal? Moving on, i do have the GV myself and even the efi one does have tall throttle bodies!
It may sound like i’ve said this over before, but that’s how i got it done in a past 125 gv , and also the gv250 efi currently
– The engine is loosened a bit with front mount bolt even taken out, then its moved a little, then lowered down via a jack.
– The manifolds are not made any more, so if they crack you will regret stressing them => I would hold the carb while rocking the airbox forwards to the front tyre , until it slips out of the carb mouths.
The frame bar is permanent, yes it is a strange strange strange design but imagine how they tried to fit the engine and airbox in ? They have to drop the motor then lift it up , i can’t see the engineers putting the airbox sideways without cursing or popping manifolds lol.
I did *at one time* forced an airbox out sideways , but this was on efi as throttle bodies are metal, so i didn’t fear manifold cracks but people do do that , i have no comments to force a box out sideways on carb’d bikes , so use caution. that’s me out lol.
Speaking of bolts, oh yes…. unless you have JIS screwdriver those bolts will warp under normal drivers we use and yes..they rust too lol. I made sure the carbs i have have all stronger stainless allen ones.
Investing in those is a good idea long term 👍
Hey 👋
Welcome to the site , and nice purchase , you may be one of the very few (if any) that have got the efi 125 hyosungs. If you do some kind of topic-journal on this forum, i will follow it , i might get one who knows! Got the older design GV250 efi myselfspeaking of design, the mirrors you mentioned can have their stalk extended. A local bike shop near you should have some kind of “mirror stem riser extension” (I am not sure about ebay as i rarely quote chinese sellers lol, but check out AmazonUK though!)
It has a male and female ends, so you put your normal mirrors on it and the stem extension goes back inside the handlebars, this way the mirrors are lifted up (height wise). You would need to confirm thread size on your current mirrors (I couldn’t confirm off my head right now)
As for bar ends, I don’t really bother with them personally because they vibrate to the point you can’t see clearly and i’m always filtering the traffic , so i’d rather they didn’t get knocked off lol. To be fair most are cheaply made for that reason.
You could checkout J&S Accessories website for mirrors , i did get some from that shop (the normal tall aftermarket ones, they did me fine on the GT125 comet, it wasnt some kind of knock-off that would give problems later). They were 10 mins away from me , though i have no idea about their store locations near you but do do online orders im sure.
Waiting for the GV125S to get enough riders, then i should do few ‘plug-n-play’ accessories for it. I really want to… {using my own test bed even!}
Hey, 15 ft lbs with a bit of loctite-medium-threadlock so they don’t undo themselves under heavy vibrations. You can type in google to convert ft-lbs to kg or NM if your tool doesn’t read foot-pounds.
Could have dealers sales brochure inside or some kind of digitized format of books to read who knows lol.
It’s a USB flash drive. Either the dealer/garage or last keeper forgot to take their item back lol.
Picresize.com is a good site to scale down images , try limiting to 1mb each on that site and save them again (that’s plenty on the forum). I keep forgetting to change the size limit on the servers, i’ll get on it.
As for your question, no idea how to respond. Need specifics to what you’re asking.
On the “Add media” button in the reply box => Try to upload an image?
No such thing on a standard Carby 125R it uses a regular key & barrel.
Must be for something else but we don’t know without visuals lol.Unless you have the “numbers” of clearances per valve, you won’t know if that’s causing heat issues on the bike or premature cam wear. 15,000 is a lot of rides, so i’ll leave it there. I usually do them at every 4-5,000 miles.
Yes the manual is correct not to tamper with the mixture screws, as then you’re in the abyss. I know what they are but will try to keep this comment short so i’m not quoted incase the bike doesn’t like what i said (modding or stock bikes are not the same, too many variables, hence we leave the stock carb alone and just do jets). Around 3 to 4 is normal on each pot, what the Koreans do factory wise. Your new spark plugs will let you know when they leave a trail color. That’s my comments.
On the needle , put it on the “lowest setting” (which is closest to the pointy tip) , that will lift the needle 1 more step out of the carb , then you have some fuel much sooner around 4-7k , its good stuff. {{No extra washers etc, don’t know why other places say this but never mind lol}}
As you have a K&N, maybe consider 95 and 97.5 main jets as maximum.
Though, you will ride the bike first with only the slide needle enriched, clean the spark plugs first. If its dark brown everywhere , the fueling mix should be fine. Last worry should be clearances on the valves, so that exhaust valves breath better once its up to temp (it gets hotter if the ex-cams have less gapping)
Go to a local bike salvage or shop, look for mikuni DF52 or SV650 carb rear pump.
The Hyosung uses a legit mikuni rear pump from 125cc to 650cc (same unit), its single vacuum port with 2 gold liquid ports (IN & OUT)
Running from the tank -> directly to the carb isn’t ideal. The 250cc won’t exceed the capacity of the rear pump anyway. So Tank Tap -> Filter -> Pump -> Carb = In this order.
You will also make sure the float heights of the carb are 7mm exactly, as that’s fuel control from idle to top gear.
Beyond 1st gear or 4,000 revs onwards, your slides start to lift and allow main jet fueling , ofcourse the carb will under go extensive cleaning since you said it ran with no filter, (many holes in the carb!)
Fair play to your comments, though i can say that if you have the books at hand and stick to its maintenance schedules and that , the bike will keep going. Things like valve clearances can be done by even suzuki garages since it uses old style “tappet under bucket” style gixxer tappets. The valves likely off old GSX (off the top of my head), then ofcourse manuals generally tell you what timings are. Clutch tutorial is on this forum , as is oil change tutorial, those 2 you can do yourself too.
Fueling side, ofcourse since being injected, you just make sure the tank isnt clogged with particles overtime and give injectors are nice clean through, checking the lambda sensor is all in spec as per books. An electric pump isn’t cheap, i can attest to that!
Brake pistons hate water but they ain’t true stainless dare i say lol. An eye on them is crucial so they don’t bind the disc later in its life, brake pads = stick with sintered ones, over cheap organics 👍
Slimmer to the rear since it allows extra fuel to cool the rear motor. I shall confirm this next time i dig thru’ some archives , but generally the rear gets a little more fuel hence larger main jet as standard than the front.
0 miles ? It should have a warranty from the dealer and let them fix it since its a new bike, within 250 miles the FI lamp light comes on? that warrants for some attention and they should replace the parts free than you forking out already.
I’ve had the FI light come on at 1K, but then the bike was a 2009 and stayed in a garage for many years neglected by the last owners lol.Hey,
Can you reply with some pictures of what your current fuel pipe set up looks like , click “add media” inside the white reply box, this will upload pictures on here. My 03 donor has a fuel pump , and an on/off manual tank tap by the left side of the frame. Upload some pictures so it helps understand if your pipe set up is correct or not
Then likely attack the carb next.
Chasing down an EFI light issue I downloaded the service manual which contains a list of “C” codes. However my 2016 GV250 has analogue speedo/odo which will not show a text code. The lovely manual doesn’t tell how to access the blinking codes. I finally found out how it is done. With the key in the off position turn on the kill switch. Now turn the key on-off-on-off-on and watch the EFI light blink your code! Unfortunately my code isn’t listed in the manual. 10-5-10-5 Hope this helps someone.
Did the bike develop a specific issue ?
Another shout is to check the harness near the ecu , sometimes the fi lamp would blink if i touched the harness meaning the ecu plug wasn’t fully in, making it seem i was getting trouble but the bike still ran fine, ofcourse , apart from FI read outs, there is also ways to test the individual sensors all over the bike with a meter sometimes.
Hey,
If we can get to the basics , let us know before we go deeper in to it?
– Battery = Size should be 14BS & new. It’s hard to tick over with a failing battery.
– AFTER it has battery changed => Check its saying 14-15v on a meter while revving around 3,000-5000 revs. (ANY 13.X volts WHILE revving, => change the regulator)
– Carbs = Opened and have been cleaned thoroughly? Mixture screw tampered with? (Hope not!)
– Does it have standard Hyosung Ignition coils ? = I’d consider changing them unless you’re handy with a meter, we can test them (HT to frame must be 6k ohms strong n max as per books). Very common units that cause all sorts of weird drama.
– Standard Plug CAPS? – They can start to wane or fail sometimes ,as its between the spark plug and the coil. NGK ones are highly favoured, they rarely cause issues.
– Spark Plugs -> if you find time to get a picture of both spark plugs, click “add media” in the reply box to show us what they are and also code name (CR8E? incase wrong ones fitted) – The plugs also leave a little hint of telling you the carb or electrics need some attention or the valve head (eg clearances to do). IX plugs should be binned if it has them. Stock CR8E or laser is best on these hyosungs.
See how you get on!
Hey, off the top of my head it must be “YTX7A-BS” size type from Yuasa (halfords), no fleebay links to post as there are many fakes online, best to see it in the flesh and usually halfords or bike shop pre-charge it for you to use it right away, though always best to check at home with your charger or a long ride for the bike’s charge system to deal with it.
It is possible to get a slightly bigger upgrade such as “YTX9-BS ” at local shop if your caddy tray looks like it will support it / fitment wise.I will try to look through some old data to see what’s up with the indicators. I was hoping your issue was more “bulb” related than an actual cracked unit, Hyosung doesn’t make these bikes anymore , so extended support is limited to say the least. Probably MotoGB trade may have some old stock in or , please ring “Startright Leeds” (oldest hyo dealer) and tell them Marcel sent you, they will have to have something from their old stripped bikes.
Hello, I am also searching for intake manifolds. You mentioned about swap to 250 intake system, how complicated is this procedure? I need only airbox and intake boots from 250 to fit everything correctly?
You may email me as I will have the front and rear collected today again from a stripped bike, as i’ve been asked by others to get some. So will likely have it when i dig around.
As for 250cc:
– correct shape manifolds (there is variants)
– 250 intake o-rings (125 ones won’t fit under them)
– 250 GT airbox yes.check this out:
https://www.launchtech.co.uk/support/information/dtc-codes-list/
P0171 must be the fuel system rail as it says “P0171 – Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1”I couldn’t find 171 in the official hyosung service manual, is that what the dash actually says on the bike ?
Consider your injector system, throttle bodies in this matter here. I’m not sure how your mechanic checked that.
