♠️ M77
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Best place to get a cam chain for gt125r
Send a new email title *Cam Chain order* and you may get a new one next week. Its here and some young goof used ones (2017 bike stripped)
Three.
The furthest the needle is out of carb the richer it gets. You dont want it too rich 😉
Go on our FB group. Tap *Files* section of that group. Find GV125/250 service manual there. It details the whole process with some cartoon diagrams. I will try upload it on this forum next time i update the site shortly.
If 1 needle has 3 grooves –> the other one must be in equal height. (could be also 4 or 3rd slot) ,
either way a digital caliper can measure the needle height (AFTER) both are fitted on the black piston slides. you want both carbs equal in all cases.
middle of 3 grooves is factory. on a factory 3 groove needle.
It means time to change:
- Barrel , Piston with Rings , Tensioner
And likely also:
- Check valves aint bent.
- Cam chain isnt worn down or replace it ideally
- Change tappet numbers (WHEN you do timings and clearances , *must be done* )
As with new parts, run it in for few hundred miles.
7mm is correct.
17mm is human error and if you tried 17mm the bike will have big issues later.
so new piston and rings then should solve the problem then? Also there is smoke coming from the rocker cover when engine running
Have you taken apart the motor or has the mechanic looked at it?
What kind of smoke? from where? is the cover loose? is there a spillage of oil? A bit more info helps.
If you find a spare key, send a DM to me and ill post a blank that you can go to keycutters to copy.
Otherwise, you have to change barrel and fuel cap. DM me again as i have a used barrel & fuel cap with one key going for cheaps. no used pillion lock as i sold it sadly.
Check this out. Its in the comments of this post.
https://m.facebook.com/groups/345623961212?view=permalink&id=10155719738771213
I think I replied on FB group didnt I?
Hope you’re the same guy and managed to get it sorted then?
Sorry Mick i delayed. Did you get anywhere with this then? Things changed so something went amiss didnt it ?
Laser ones (IA) at the shop are better than the overhyped IX ones. IX-Blue plugs are old tech that’s hyped up too much, hyosungs don’t like them (ix) or stock ones will do just fine.
PM me about the sprocket , ill see what i can do.
P0171 = Too much air or fuel system is lean. The BMC flows more air than a stock unit, the ecu will sense that with its sensors near the airbox or via lambda sensor as emissions burnt is sensed to be leaner.
Hey,
Check out this topic regarding mirror suggestions especially to do with extending it.
Mods.
As this is a new *injected* bike. Last thing we want to is add wrong electrics or poor exhaust / intake mods that will upset the ecu / make it run weird. So i am heavily researching this bike as it shares zero parts from previous (CARB) GV125s.
For now, at the shop, there is spark plugs which burn a little cleaner than stock so that should improve throttle response just a tad.
I want to do a 530/525 kit exclusively for the efi 125 gv. Please PM me so i can discuss your rear sprocket for gearing as i will get one made.
Older GVs were proven to max out 91-94 while overtaking, with zero mods. just a 520 kit! See below 😉
He is not even at redline yet.
Hey, i got your email, and reply to the same email again so i don’t lose the conversation from there.
Just wanted to quickly add , i hope the carb mixtures were not played with.
Let’s put electrics aside for now, lets talk these:
- Clearances ? Got figures ? – They matter a lot
- Good compression
- Was the carb played with ? Read my reply on this link below:
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/gt125-hassle/#post-4816
Hey welcome to the site and how nice of you to move yourself and your bike to the north islands, but sorry that it is wet sometimes! We get that in England too lol.
So let’s jump right to it;
– Use OEM rubber “dust covers” which hide the engine hole , they are on ebay i usually stock them
– We don’t know on NGK caps of how old they were but we have to assume NGK products rarely fail anyways unless there was some kind of cosmetic damage
– Try to replace the HT wire with magnecor ones (from coil to the cap)
– Try to download the manual on this forum and then follow its guide on how to test your ignition coils to make sure they are in OEM specs.
– On the same manual , try to remove the airbox, and then test the electrical parts that are mounted near the engine and box ,
– Check the frame isn’t rusty. Use contact cleaner to “clean every single” exposed wire, every PLUG you find on the bike.
– Done ? Get “ACF50”, then apply a small “rain drop” of that stuff in every single plug (INSIDE), this is electrical safe anti-rust agent and also protects from weather attacks (it tries!)- Check your spark plugs
- check your air filter , because if water went in , it will annoy the injectors trying to atomize the fuel
- make sure the harness is good front to back using contact cleaner and the acf50 bottle as mentioned above ^, because its naked bike , so a bit more attention is need compared to a faired up bike in some cases.Try these and see how you get on. Good luck fella!
Sorry i delayed, to answer you, i would start by fixing the bike using the suggestions mentioned in my past comments.
The pump sits at the rear of the frame, it doesn’t touch the engine. Also the bike in your profile image suggests that it’s naked enough to allow enough air flow all over the bike anyways.
Replacing the pump is usually the last resort, it tends to last a long while when its well maintained.
You should get Motul Factory Line coolant for bikes. Its mixed already and is better at doing its job over cheaper coolant bottles. I can vouch it myself having used it on smaller liquid cooled bikes in the past.
As its a public forum. You should PM me concerning security matters on the bike or a garage can actually do it with discretion in mind.
Usually the bog downs or cutting away means electrical issue or fuel delivery system.
Lets deal with fuel first.
- Go to the rear pump. Open its metal shield cover. You will see a glass window inside. Get CARB CLEANER. Spray inside through the GOLD PORTS only. Do not spray inside the GREY port. Now you must see the particles get cleaned out. remove the window (watch the gasket!). Clean the window too. Dont remove any moving parts of pump. Clean up and close the pump tight. Fit it back on the bike.
- Change the fuel filter.
- Clean the carbs…. see below
Get compressed air. Open the carb. Clean HARD the Pilot Jets. MAIN jets. And also the *enrichment tube* that is permanent on the carb.
Then clean every *hole* you see inside the carb hard so all the particles go out. It is crucial. CARB CLEANER (Liquid) helps also but it is better to use compressed air to blast every tiny hole though!
Put your carb upside down on a table (floats facing the sky). Get a ruler. Start from 0mm on the FLAT EDGE of the carb base (where bowl gasket sits on) . then make sure all 4 floats are 7mm height. not less. not more. this float controls how much fuel you get from idle to top gear. You dont want the carb starving or overfueling. 7mm precisely at the top of the float on your ruler. or adjust the float metal tangs a little bit! Then recheck.
Floats all good?. last mission is to clean the diaphragms at the top (black slides) and search *Slide Mod* on this forum on how to improve the slide needles.
Now the carb should be really clean and prepared. before fitting on the bike…. do the following below…
Go to intake manifolds.
- Be very gentle. It is very very very hard to get new ones (not made anymore).
- Remove intake manifolds
- Check for cracks / damage (vacuum leak!)
- Check Oring isnt cracked (very important for air leaks too)
- Clean them. And grease the ORings.
- Fit them back on the back.
- Use fresh bolts and washer and tighten (be gentle!)
We have cleaned the carb. we have checked the intake manifolds. put the carbs back. put the airbox back too. Be gentle as carb intake manifolds will crack open if there is too much weight or pressure on them.
Connect the fuel pump. get fresh fuel lines. get fresh vacuum lines and clamp all lines tight to stop vacuum leaks.
Start your bike. Get CARB CLEANER. spray the intake manifolds while she is on IDLE. if revs go up^ = you still have a leak. fix that area. if you spray rear manifold and revs go up , investigate rear intake system there as an example.
Last mission go to the TANK.
- If you have a vacuum tap on the tank. start your bike. rev up multiple times. You should see fuel gushing down the filter. That means the tap is squirting fuel in to the filter.
- After a short ride, fuel filter should be FULL if it is a small one.
- If you have a manual ON/OFF tap on the left side of your bike frame ==> Go under the tap. Open it. Clean the dirt traps inside.
- If you have a ON/OFF tap that also means your tank has 2 pipes that go down to the ON/OFF tap. On your tank => remove the spigots that side inside the 2 holes. ((From tank rust or dirt that may prevent fuel coming out of the tank to feed your bike))
I hope i have made sense. Try everything i said above. And let us know if there is improvement even if it is small or better. It will respond better when you make progress.
