♠️ M77
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Plus, the Hyosung already runs leaner, so if you think about it, the more gasses LEAVE the bike (staninless pipes OR aftermarket end can , whichever of these 2) ===> Increase fuel mix, which means uprate the main jets. A leaner bike is lethal than a slightly rich one , plus hyosungs like to run 1 step richer. Less drama later on with bike that isn’t going to overheat leaner and glaze up the piston chambers, plugs, and what not.
Search this forum for “Slide Mod” and “Carb Jet” which are 2 separate tutorials to help enrich the bike a bit. If not, i can always paste the links
Did you manage to get a video?
If you hear metal scratching sounds going up and down rapidly near the valve head/cylinder barrel. Thats the piston rings
Is that what youre hearing?
Switch on the bike, rev to 5k revs.
Unplug the stator on the left side of the bike (3pin yellow plug)Now switch pocket meter to 200v/500v AC = Then put red & black of your meter inside there, (any of the combination of 2 pins inside the stator plug)
Tell us how much power the stator is making before you fit a new reg, because usually they tend to take each other out (either stator kills the reg or vice versa) but stator usually survives. You won’t know until you get hard figures.
Eg. Pin 1 & 2 = Volts? // Pin 2 & 3 = Volts? // Plin 1 & 3 = Volts?
All 3 combinations above must have the same output (hence its a 3 phasing stator)Excuse me for being stupid but if you say “manual on/off tap” is that the petcock?
Yes , it sits on the left side of the frame (mounted there)
Check this out for further clarity sorry i didnt paste it before. I was getting out of bed 😆
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Did you download the service manual off the forum on here?
You will see instructions to switch to dealer mode.
The CV Carb hangs upside as downdraft its not just Korea who designed the bike to need the box but also the carb itself will always run better with the box. Even pods dont work. So if were you i would make a box 😉 then put a foam filter across the top. 650cc hyo GT is a bit like that. Box with a panel filter on top under the tank.
90 92.5 is safe. The bike is baffled so well done for that as pipes matter a lot . It doesnt need all gases escaping or it runs slowish.
Needle on slide being furthest away from carb (richer) is good. Stock is middle groove.
Glad the bike sailed through its MOT despite the minor hiccup!
Hope the lad still enjoys it now with summer fully here.
Shameless plug but he should consider the 520 kit which has special gearing (pulls bike to 50 in 2nd gear also quickly! He will go beyond 70 .. plus the 520 is better than 428 for longevitiy. Xring too 😉
Any plans for Karry then!
Hey.
Welcome to the site! Got the aquila myself as well as the GTs, not everyones tea the hyosungs but i like em!
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Ride easy this summer!
Switch to size 15 pilots.
Play with the mixture until the plugs are brown all over if you understand what to do or read from the exhaust pipes as well as heat coming out of the pipes to . You sound like you know the gist of this.
Also the stock setting for main jets is 87.5 x 2 usually for aquilas or rarely 90 front 87.5 rear (silly setup but thats OEM sometimes)
Best way is 90 front and 92.5 rear.
The bike will start on the button without twisting throttle or turning choke on in this summer heat. Shooting to 1500 rpm cold then 1800 hot 10mins later (1800 hot is ideal). The mixture and pilot size is good as well good electrics (coils, caps , plugs crucial but common things to wane starting) as well as good clearances really matter for easy starts.
This is assumed intake system is complete (airbox sitting on the carb) (secondary airbox on the right of the frame) these 2 boxes matter or the CV carb will always run strange it was made sure intake system stays OEM.
Assumed also orings under the manifolds arent 10yrs old , cracking etc allowing air under the manifolds but also leaking vacuum pressure to run the carbs right
Hope this info helps
Let us know how you get on
Hope youre enjoying the summer. Never mind a few odd showers there and there but good to have you !
Good afternoon Referring to Step 10:
My tank doesn’t look like this. It’d only got 2 nipples where the fuel hoses connects to. Can you please clarify this for me? PS: you refer to the fuel pump as the “rear pump or pump at the rear”. Does this mean that there is (or should be) a fuel pump in the front aswell?
Hey. If you have a tank thats only got 2 holes under it. You have a classic Comet tank which doesnt use a vacuum tap.
So each hole under tank (2 of them close to each other)
Goes down to the MANUAL ON/OFF TAP that is mounted on the left side of the bike frame. Usually older comets with Silver Frames have this.
Late models switched to vacuum taps (hence needing a vacuum pipe from intake manifolds to make turn on/off automatically.) (& all GTR 125 whatever year they always are vacuum type taps)
REAR PUMP = It sits behind the rear engine of your bike.
As you saw in the pictures above ^. There is only 1 for all GT / GTR from 125cc to 650cc carby bikes. Its the same Mikuni unit Koreans use. Carb is a Mikuni too 😉
Where is the ais on a 2006 gt125r??
It is at the rear of the bike next to the FUEL PUMP.
Look for a silver ball with 2 giant pipes.
1 going to rear engine metal pipe = block it.
1 going to UNDERSIDE of airbox = block it
There is also 1 extra mini pipe (about size of 4mm hole) going to intake manifolds = block that.
Now you can remove that fake emissions thing (egr) bike wont miss it!
Hi I’m Russ from Mansfield, Notts , recently bought a Hyosung Gv 125, got my CBT booked,any one know any nice roads I can take it on in Nottinghamshire, cheers Russ
Check this out and click “Load Map”
https://www.bestbikingroads.com/motorcycle-roads/united-kingdom/rides/east-midlandsI’d been away for a few days riding, 4 to 6 hours a day, got home yesterday, hosed with water to wash the road grime off (after it cooled). Now it won’t start, winds over but no spark. Any help on where to start appreciated…
Jetwashing isn’t usually ideal, since water wants to get to the wires or creep up in to places it shouldn’t.
Start by checking the plugs aint wet? – Check your ignition coils mounted on the frame and also the HT Cap isn’t wet too. Let us know how they are before we dig deeper.
Welcome fella , just as well season is getting warmer now, so i assume when things ease up more you will be going cross country with it 😉
I’m finding it hard to navigate the site. Like the shop for example. I want to pick up service kit. I’ll need brake pads front and rear, oil and air filter. Where do you guys shop for these items. I’m riding the bike home tonight for the first time. Brake pads look very low so I’ll them asap.
Send me an email fella. It’s a new site that’s having its shop database built up over time, especially with “bundle kits” in mind as i like to put up good things, not just junk commonly on fleebay but i can usually get anything if you need anything.
If you go to the battery with a multi meter, rev the bike to 2k revs = what voltage does it say? If you rev the bike at 5,000 revs , what voltage is it again?
2k Revs & 5K Revs are 2 tests , let us know what it says.The battery is on you this time, it could mean time for a change, no size or brand was mentioned , so i will say go for YUASA (legit ones) or VARTA. Your caddy box is limited by physical dimensions , so a 14BS may be too big to slot in (that’s what us GTR / GT folk use)
So you may be limited by a 9BS -11BS type battery. New is still better than old, either way.The more I read, the more likely its starvation involved too, & that we need to investigate the fueling side of things as i mentioned in previous reply as a checklist. Have you done either of those things?.
A final thing, pull out your spark plugs. Tell us if its “light brown, dark muddy brown, or jet black , wet black or glazed white” === pay attention to the CENTER WHITE TIP of the plug , otherwise you can attach an image if possible…. This is key also.
Hey Trevor,
Any form of bog downs / cuts is usually electrical and or fueling –
You said you replaced almost everything? Usually these are the suspecs to check out:
– Plugs ? (Still using Laser ones ? if so… clean them if too sooty)
– Coils ? / (Plus the “black HT caps” ?) (2 ignition parts here)
– Stator unit was changed already?
– Reg rec? (It will say 14.5v constant if you had the uprated ones, but i have nothing positive to say about the stock hyo ones sadly, we all hate em)
– Battery? (what size is it and what brand? how old?)
(some times half of these things above get worse due to heat, some OEM parts were cheap outsourced/built). Engine itself is good, overengineered thing lol.Moving to the fuel side, is the filter usually full ?
– You can usually check the manual tap doesn’t have a lot of dirt, it has a trap at the base of it.
– Vacuum pump ? (and also intake lines + manifolds aint leaking vacuum pressure)
Because if the pump wasn’t optimal, your carb drinks its own fuel until the pump feeds it (incase of a slow fuel delivery system to maintain top gear riding)
– Hate to say it! ==> Carbs taken out for a clean?
Not just jets but there is fuel valves under the floats that control fuel input, so the little mesh ball can sometimes trap dirt coming from the tank.I was aware some bits changed but i have an old brain that sometimes needs reminding lol.
