â™ ï¸ M77
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Welcome to the site and happy holidays
It would be useful if we know these (makes troubleshooting whole lot easier) , if we skip these , i won’t know how to answer accurately. History helps.
- Total miles on dash?
- Has it had valve clearances done? (can’t be avoided)
- Has it had its carbs taken apart and blasted clean (via air compressor, fluids and even ultrasonic clean?)
- what modifications does it have?
BTW have you recieved my email? Its urgent.
In regards to your bike, how good is your battery? (Did it get garage tested. They have special meters). Id start here first.
After, have you taken the tank off. Used contact cleaner to clean ur plugs every where (gold pins can turn rusty from oxidization / winter road salt) its harder for electrics to pass AMP & VOLT juices thru the spine (harness loom)
Then check every indicator works.
Relay unit be the last item to investigate.
Something like that. But a wide box similar to OEM cause that in pic^ is too damn small. But you get the gist.
3rd hole is just to link tubing to the side from box(where oem filter is)
See that it has a hook hole?
A bolt goes through it. Then screws to metal hinge thingy thats on the GV frame (weld one on to it).  Creativity ideas thats all.
I say big box cause volumetric pressure is needed. So size matters.
You can however…..
Make a metal box with 2 holes under it. Then rubber gromets for the carb to slide in to the box.
A full welded box but its narrower to clear the frame. Enclosed unit like the plastic oem box.
Extra hole at the front that allows a BIG flexi pipe to the front right mini oem air filter box.
There. We just remade the top air chamber out of metal ; a little narrower to clear the frame for ease of removal.
Then weld a little metal plate hinge kind of thing that allows it to be secured to frame bar so it doesnt rattle.  The hinge moves out of the way (once unscrewed) for metal box to come out.
Takes brains and money to accomplish this!
I forgot the exact dimensions but you are right to say even a few mm off make a difference. I know that the Hyosung Carb is based off BDS26 BUT… it doesnt use mikuni part numbers , notice on your own parts list. The numbers are OEM based. So Mikuni makes certain parts spec’d to Hyosung while the empty skeleton body BDS26 is generic and used. Such as idle cables , metal hinges/guides, float bowls and that.
It looks like you are totally rebuilding the carb at this rate!
I do have loads of used parts for the carb in my trays taken off the hyosungs themselves.
No matter what Alan, I’ve tried everything, the box just wins.
The poster above you says he had to “un-cone” (basically go back to as stock as he can) then the bike responds better. Not the engine’s fault but the nature of the CV carb has made sure it wants a box not for air flow, also air pressure and other science.  Pods just run too weird and it’s an abyss getting it right. If a 250cc uses the same carb and airbox, i doubt the 125 will exceed its capacity 😉
Following this closely.
Sorry that this wasn’t auto-approved a week ago, I am going to completely overhaul the site once again so it is less strict , trust me it is starting to annoy me now , but there is no excuse for a developer as myself to fix things , life got in the way!
Nice to see you Scott!
Around 1.5 to 2.5 turns on the GT250 but caution this because KR didnt reveal it and heavily discourages messing with the mixtures. And also caution that rear engine likes to run a little richer (a little). hence the 2.5 step staggered fashion of jetting KR did for the 125 and 250 models.
In your pic. Yes it is a breather / overflow to the ground incase bike tips over (falls) or floats act strange and overflowed the carb (in the sense of the word)
Hope that helps.
This happens, usually replacing the fuel gauge seems to fix it especially on dashboards that have white or orange display LCD. Also the dash reads the level sensor directly, so check the harness from the dashboard plug going to the tank level sensor plug.
Hi, sorry I didn’t reply so soon!
Did you get anywhere then?I assume you have had a digital meter on the coils , stator unit, plug caps? Other things that cut off sparks are “stand switch, clutch lever switch, cdi unit, neutral sensor” have you checked those too.
The mystery diodes & igniters embedded in the harness don’t usually just fail, if i am honest. I have worked and repaired few hyosung looms mostly for the lower capacity bikes , the igniters & diodes are always always working just fine, but there isn’t clear cut instructions from KR on how to test them anyway. If i’m honest always the sensors in the looms that i replaced with failure was the Neutral Switch mystery diode.
RELAY,TURN SIGNAL (GV250, GV125) - 3 PIN: H38610HR9770
That’s exactly what i got from the trader database. It is the same relay used on all GV250, Later GV125 (2009+) , GT125R , GT250R – All using the 3 wire plug. (3 wires!)
“Blinking Hazards” is controlled by the correct switch gear unit either 2010+ GV125 or GT125 RC bikes.
Old gens didn’t have this at all.
The relay is directly controlled by the switch gears (left side of bike for left or right)
And certain models of GV or GT on the “RIGHT SWITCH GEAR” to turn on blinking hazards or not.This also assumes all 4 bulbs on the bike, are Stock Korea ones. That’s all the relay responds to.
Which leaves investigating the bulbs , switch units gears, harness.
Your relay must be the same both new and old. They will either say KR Motors or Hyosung or Hankuk. (Hankuk makes the relays for Hyosung in Korea)
So i hope a mechanic has had a quick look for you ?
Hi,
Yes we do. Send us an email via the site contact page at the top or bottom site menus (if on the phone)
Hey when i replied to the email I recieved, did you try the points to check as i listed them ?
How did that go ?– M
This is shared on the FB group also.
Hope someone has a sale for ya ðŸ‘
Hey,
The 2008 has an Mk1 subframe which means old gen seats only.
You can ring Skidmax UK for a solo seat rear hump.
What kind of styling parts you also thinking of?
Hi, it’s in progress. You will get a private message soon.
Hey.
I would start with the main thing (sometimes overlooked) is the carb.
– Has it gone through a deep clean session (eg. Every single hole air blasted with a compressor and liquid cleaner)
– has it had its floats messed with? (5mm instead of 7mm)
– how the slide walls for diaphragm?
– how are the diaphragm slides?
– how are the main jets and pilots?
– how OLD is your fuel filter (miles)
– do you see particles inside fuel filter?
– do you see particles in air filter and how old is it? (Miles)While at it.
– how are the manifolds of the bike?
– have the O-Rings of the manifold changed recently for fresh ones?
– manifold clamps OK?
– what colour is your spark plugs and can we see ? (To make better judgement too)What i have asked above directly affects your question. Each line of question should be addressed until your bike starts to run better. Because also what i said above can be repeated from the service manuals of various carby hyosungs.
Stage 3 Final.
Connect all stator plugs back to the main bike harness.
Start the engine and let her idle at 1800 revs HOT.
Set your meter to DC 20 Volts (must be DC)
Go to your battery terminals.
Measure how many volts is showing at 1800 rpm.
Do this AGAIN at 5,000 revs.
Now let us know what it says.
1. 1800rpm = volts?
2. 5000 rpm = volts?Do all 3 stages as i said above. Ill report back how your charging system is.
