♠️ M77
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Are you able to sort of like upload a video through an external source like youtube or fb or a short clip uploaded to this site. Least we can listen to it?
Any history of clearances done?
Clutch basket? (Plates , springs etc)
Can you put your hands on the engine while cold, does it shake voilently like someone is hammering it as revs go uo or while idling
Have you heard the cam tensioners behind the engine make noises? (When your ear is directly behind it)(what year is it because 125s have 3 tensioner styles. Big head , flat head blunt end, flat head pointy head) or upload a pic?
Hi there, many thanks for your full and informative response. I will be ordering shortly and will sure have more questions as I tidy the bike Thanks
You got this! – Do her nice and well , then it will be a nice summer machine to go places real soon. No worries fella!
2500 is awfully young, i hope it’s just the front cylinder tensioner as it does sit directly above the magneto side on the left of bike but i wouldn’t know what design tensioner was put inside from production (early bad batch one or updated one) – If it has warranty, i guess the dealer must fix it on the spot.
Also beyond 600 miles run, the “clearances” must be checked before 4K as all the parts have started to wear in etc, if anything was off before 4K, that’s the dealer to fix it without you footing extra bill.
See how you get on but it would be a nice excuse anyway to get her opened up early on and just change them things anyway and get all 8 tappets done, chains checked, if the mech doesn’t charge silly labour rates or take shortcuts (i dislike them when they do this to customer bikes)
Hello,
Sorry i delayed.
Have you tried following this link and look at the pictures and comments i wrote near the oil filter?[Tutorial] Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates Replacement How To
I just purchased a gt125 r and need to replace the sprockets and chain as they look tired. How many teeth are on the front and rear and what length chain would I need? I see there is an upgrade in the store, is this different to the stock tooth count?
Hello,
The 520 kit sold on this site is tailored, which means we can customize to suit you and usually do better than what other sellers put out in terms of quality . (Rear cog probs lasts 1-2yrs, no matter how hard you try, it’s that strong) compared to having taiwanese copy-cats. Another reason we don’t do 428s is because they stretch too much (not worth the cost for the buyer and us to keep restocking them with fast wearing teeth lol)Most chains on ebay are MTX and TVH (china branded both of them) (Google “TVH” chain logo and see how some ebay sellers disguise them with a fake GTR logo in them lol)
If you purchased the kit without telling us , yes the gearing will raise rpms slightly but if a stock bike is 84, you will go beyond that and with a tad better accel, that’s a fair balance.
The stock 428s shipped by korea are 14 and 52T (only size in 428 for rear) , stock 428 chain is 138 links.
I can drop all the way to 44 , i know multiple sprocket makers. The GV aquilas have their rear cogs dropped in to the 30’s even because the riders want long cruising rpms (far distance tours) but still pulls awesome on the hills , it gets to 70 very quickly 😉
Sorry i delayed , but i hope this info helps. Ride steady!
Can we get any history of this bike?
4K = clearances must be done and tensioners inspected , the newer slim head tensioners come in 2 shapes | 1 has a blunt silver end (most lethal) | and later gv125 engines which even the GT’s use too, have cury dark tip tensioners
Loose clearances = makes a r-r-r-r-r-r-r-tat-tat-tat sound as it gets more revs (sometimes) and sometimes during idle.
Some valve little valve chatting is okay
An eeriely very very quiet top end means it’s probs tight clearances and that’s more lethal. (heat expands and wants to close the gaps between the cams , but the cams need some little gapping, aka clearance while the cam lobe spins and hits the tappet buckets)
Popping off the top valve covers , then shine down a torch behind the plastic chain guide , u will see if the tensioner has a dark or silver tip and let us know don’t touch anything though!
Next = if you hear sounds near the clutch basket and it changes when you pull in and out from your lever, consider changing your plates (it’s usually at 4k intervals for cheap stock plates, they had to save money i guess) , last you my want is a 1 out of 5 plates cracked, i’ve been there. but the bike was okay to ride, yet once i took off the clutch , the plates where worn down for real. Not surprising , 2 pistons and a heavy girl does tend to tax the clutch a bit.
See how you get on!
Could also make another video, so i can take a 2nd listen, go around the bike and find the loudest spot that’s making noise even top end , down to bottom end, go behind the cam tensioners(! can’t stress these things lol)
Hi Josh’s dad here . Problem we have is there is no ignition or dash lights , no horn or lights ect nothing on starter button? It turns over as normal if cross starter solenoid, took off and sprayed every connector I can see including the fused one under back seat ? Any help would be very much appreciated b4 I break lockdown and push it off a cliff !
Bloody hell, that’s a poorly machine, if you can’t see the dashboard turn on. We must inspect the harness..
So,
- Go to rear pillion seat, confirm the fuse is still intact and 15A?
- Disconnect the regulator/rectifier on the left frame (temporarily!)
- Lift the tank, and “click this blue link here” ….
Only follow #1 – #6 on how to remove the airbox. - Now look for these plugs:
GREEN BLOCK = Ignition barrel (crucial)
BLACK BLOCK = Kill Switch unit / right SW gear.
BLUE BLOCK = Dashboard harness.
Also, please confirm the GREEN BLOCK has 12.8v going to the ignition barrel (no less)
Also last thing, confirm when the key turns – Do the “headlights” come on ? The bike’s headlights will always come on upon key turning.
The “NEUTRAL” light LED will also come on (even if the LCD glass is turned off, which i hope not as that’s a circuit failure potentially or a damaged harness / shorted somehow)
So please advise on what you did as above and report your progress …
Hey,Have you checked the following (these cut sparks off anytime its not sensed)- Side stand switch (bypass it, if not already by wire joins and tape it hard)
- Clutch handle switch (don’t bypass but check the bullet connectors are still intact)
(Temporary bypass may be ok, but not forever, you don’t want to start while gearbox is active and bike drops on the floor even damage the gearbox or starter motor) - Check plugs going to the cdi unit arent cut
M795 GT125 | M815 GT125 | M815 GT250 = These 3 cdi’s are okay to use. - Check the neutral sensor wire behind sprocket cover is still plugged and showing green on the screen.
Next when it is safe to do so, take out a plug and put it back inside the coil CAP , place the pug on the valve cover bolt (silver bolt!!) , then check for sparks when it is cranking over
- Battery should be 12.8-13.4v cold charged and 14BS is the size, smaller capacity batteries tend to annoy charge systems and the bike in general.
Let us know how you get on before we try to dig deeper in to it. Exactly the steps you took above ^ .
If you can’t see your dash lights turn on, check the fuse thats under the pillion seat. It’s 15A size. Then also lift up the dash surrounding unit, be sure water didnt get to the plugs, thats enough to ruin the circuit board on the bike then doesn’t turn on again (sensetive LCD!)
Also check plugs that are under the airbox, you willl see why its crucial to protect the area where water from the front tyre is flicking towards the carb and bounces around your connectors , turning them rusty … contact cleaner helps and then use ACF50 inside every single terminal pin, to soak them and stay protected from road salts even. Hyos really hate caked up plugs and water invastions near electronics. The RC is a little more exposed than the old gen bikes and uses a weaker made loom, so protect it all you can.
My set up is different to this , I don’t have two connections on the rear intake boot and the tank has no vacuum connector on it ,just two stubby connectors that connect to the fuel tap on the side of frame
It’s okay, the pre-05 had manual side mounted taps than a vacuum one.
So as usual the tank feeds the frame tap.
Then tap => filter => to rear pump.The manifolds on the engine will only feed the rear pump. Both joined in a T-piece then single line towards the rear pump.
I think I will be calling in your expertise Marcel to inspect the carb to see if that was the issue causing the fuel in the entering the oil
That’s fine, drop me a message when ready , no rush, we will get it going .
Manual tensioner = risky business. Too tight, chain snaps eventually, too loose the cams skip teeth.
Manual is usually race team stuff as they gonna rebuild engines anyway after a raceFor daily street riding, i’ve always kept using the automatic ones. They last long enough as long as you stay on top of valve clearance jobs and ofcouse check chain and cam sprocket every now and then
1 guy ran manual tensioners and was keeping tabs with me, he ruined his engine.
If its 09 and below, then yes the big head tensioners are okay. If its a new-shape RC bike with a skinny head tensioner, then use 650 ones as they tend to last a bit better. The early 125CC 2010 RC onwards to 14 had new design tensioners with a “flat silver” tip inside. these are lethal ones. Again, RC new shape bike – use 650 ones. They have a grey curvy tip end inside.
I’ve got some stock of NEW shape tensioners and gaskets if need be , old shape ones i can always order them in if required if not in a rush, as u know corona stuff has slowed logistics in most places.
If you copy the link on facebook and post it here, there ill see if you’re the same person then ill respond back here.
ebay is called @Evocrest , but really send me a PM om this site , as i will spend the week starting tomorrow to dig the axle stuff out and other bits i didn’t list on ebay. Anything else i said to find on ebay, should already be listed for sure.
Wrap = Depends on body shop quotes locally to you when you take the panels there, ive seen self-owners do it but results look mint , some look bad after a while or used cheap materials. (Love the UK weather!)
2007 Parts list to fit 2015
– 2007 nose cage
– 2007 headlight box
– Top side fairings
– Top side screen (6 bolted)
– Dash surround 07
– 07 Front Mounting brackets (x8 various and various sizes!)
(these are needed to clip on the lower engine panels and also front frame area to hold the top sides) (the nose cage isn’t enough to hold the top side fairings)Like your RC, it has various brackets in yellow near the front. Picture that in 2007 style you need.
I hope he is okay though! – Not fun to come off!!
On my part, i will try to dig thru my stuff but i have a chance that i will have:
– Rear axle bar & nut (what happend to old one?, rare to break that bar in half!)
– footpeg (should be on my ebay but older classic design)
– left gearshifter arm (on my ebay) (though depends how bad yours is you can rescue it)
– hangers common to be welded on nowdays , they appear to be discontiuned from new production nowdays. (i’m 50/50 ill dig one out)
– Got a rod that links the shift arm to engine arm, – tatty (2007) – seems to want painting from its mild steel gone dark – need to dig it out. (unlisted)
– Can pickup a clutch lever new and sent within 24hrs im sure, too many shops around here have it. Just have to ring em to open doors lol.Tell the lad to recover well and calm down lol. We need him alive
Welcome to the forum,
yes the part number is Hyosung 16510-HP7-600-HAS
That means get HiFlo HF197 👍
Hi Marcel, The bike is GT250EFI, carb won’t be issue. I’ll keep you updated and upload pics about plugs when I install the coils. I’ll also try to see how the engine runs with 1 cylinder, what the difference is if only front or only rear works. Thanks
Ahhhhhhhh!!!!
Its an EFI – Damn it, I hope the coils don’t trip up the ECU, i may have given you ones that are a bit too powerful for the ECU! – It may get shell shocked lol.But if you get the dealer codes activated on the bike by following the service manual in forum (even 650 GT has same process to activate code numbers) , it should tell us if its nothing to do with the throttle parts (injectors, sensors etc). I do have some efi parts off my own donor 2009 EFI, if need be, i know they work.
The first start up ….This is what came out of the engine breather pipe
Bloody hell, hope the engine is okay and nothing like a strip to see internals are nice and okay , if the engine matches the V5, then you have a rare thing as ive engines swapped out by abusive keepers.
Yes! Another guy with an 03, the first batch to come out. Maybe its just me having a thing for old gens lol.
Mine’s white, and trust me , it went through a lot and now is a sweet donor runner i use to zip around , i think you will have fun with yours this season then come out in summer looking better than it did when you first got it!
Looks good fella! – Being able to see the odd twat behind you is always ideal before any evasive action lol. Well done!
I’ve started to slowly put small bits up for this bike, one of the big exclusive bits i’m eager to do is the 520 chain conversion kit that everyone raves about on the carby bikes . I may possibly PM you or someone else i know with the EFi GV to be a guinea pig to test the kit. I’ve seen that stock does 75 (just like the old GV125 carby, but i get texts now of 87 ish at best on the 520s but max chain does is 94) . If i can make the EFI GV125 push beyond 85 without loosing the crucial acceleration , then we have won lol. If i think of something else to do also , i’ll probs make sure this site does it lol. Who knows, my brain doesn’t stop haha.