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    • #3935
      Sean
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      @comet89
      Sunderland
      Gt comet
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      Hey guys am new here be kind 😂😂 i have just gotten an 03 gt comet 125 an got her fired up first time today run for 5 mìns i know i need a new battry how eva the first cyclinder remaind cool whilst the back one seem to warm up a bit also will not rev up any advice on what this could be thanks in advance am thinking a spark. b carbs ? When you try to rev its rpm would start to drop its idol speed was around 1.2 it also didnt seem to be missing a beat but thats what confuses me as i have never owned or had experience with these bikes/engines thank you in advance

    • #3946
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      @mf448kxn6
      North UK
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      Hey,

      If we can get to the basics , let us know before we go deeper in to it?

      Battery = Size should be 14BS & new.  It’s hard to tick over with a failing battery.

      AFTER it has battery changed => Check its saying 14-15v on a meter while revving around 3,000-5000 revs.  (ANY 13.X volts WHILE revving,  => change the regulator)

      Carbs = Opened and have been cleaned thoroughly? Mixture screw tampered with? (Hope not!)

      Does it have standard Hyosung Ignition coils ? = I’d consider changing them unless you’re handy with a meter, we can test them  (HT to frame must be 6k ohms strong n max as per books).  Very common units that cause all sorts of weird drama.

      Standard Plug CAPS? – They can start to wane or fail sometimes ,as its between the spark plug and the coil.  NGK ones are highly favoured, they rarely cause issues.

      Spark Plugs -> if you find time to get a picture of both spark plugs, click “add media” in the reply box to show us what they are and also code name (CR8E?  incase wrong ones fitted) – The plugs also leave a little hint of telling you the carb or electrics need some attention or the valve head (eg clearances to do).   IX plugs should be binned if it has them.  Stock CR8E or laser is best on these hyosungs.

      See how you get on!

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #3954
      Sean
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      @comet89
      Sunderland
      Gt comet
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      This very helpful stuff thank you

    • #3955
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      I bleave its all standard stuff appart from exhaust to what i have no clue to make and model of it looked at google but no help willpost pic

    • #4002
      Sean
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      @comet89
      Sunderland
      Gt comet
      Points: 96

      Can not post any pics all to big also wondring if theres any links to where u can get full engines stuff as i can not find any when i google it

    • #4005
      ♠️ MARCEL
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      @mf448kxn6
      North UK
      GTR
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      Picresize.com is a good site to scale down images , try limiting to 1mb each on that site and save them again (that’s plenty on the forum).   I keep forgetting to change the size limit on the servers, i’ll get on it.

      As for your question, no idea how to respond. Need specifics to what you’re asking.

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #4061
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      Hey guys am reqli sturggling to get my fule line pips back on i looked at pics confus3d me even more i have to meany pips or not enough  i tired i have 2 pips on my tank going to fule tap one on top just dnot know where i have gone wrong so confued

       

    • #4062
      Sean
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      @comet89
      Sunderland
      Gt comet
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      Hey guys am reqli sturggling to get my fule line pips back on i looked at pics confus3d me even more i have to meany pips or not enough  i tired i have 2 pips on my tank going to fule tap one on top just dnot know where i have gone wrong so confued

      I will try that pic resizeing site when i get back home an post a few pics i am absolutely stumped

    • #4064
      ♠️ MARCEL
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      @mf448kxn6
      North UK
      GTR
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      Hey guys am reqli sturggling to get my fule line pips back on i looked at pics confus3d me even more i have to meany pips or not enough i tired i have 2 pips on my tank going to fule tap one on top just dnot know where i have gone wrong so confued I will try that pic resizeing site when i get back home an post a few pics i am absolutely stumped

      Don’t sweat fella. Just copy exactly what i am doing in the pics

      Failing that,  just use the picresize website to scale down your images to under 2mb  or  make them  500×500 pixels so they are forum friendly and i will see what’s going.   More than 1 pic helps.

      Don’t forget, there is also this blue link here , that shows how to deal with AIR LINES  ,  separately.

      Good luck!

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #4067
      Sean
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      @comet89
      Sunderland
      Gt comet
      Points: 96

      So the pipe on the right side is in the right side of carb top pip is with yellow clip is vacum line i bleave its hooked up now i have 3 pipes one off the left side of the carbs the bottom pip with the fule filter on the pump then i my fule tap that has 2 pipes out one on top and my fule thank has 2 out fule lines and the other hole i guess is the breather

    • #4069
      ♠️ MARCEL
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      @mf448kxn6
      North UK
      GTR
      Points: 4,200

      Any more pics so we see whey they start from?

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #4070
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      Points: 96

      Yeah its just takeing me some time to up load pics my connection is very very slow for some reson

    • #4071
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      Yeah its just takeing me some time to up load pics my connection is very very slow for some reson

    • #4073
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      The pip from this side of carbs i have hooked up to prot 2 of the fulle tap vacum line an back line i know are correct its just getting that line and 2 from the tank correct sorry pics are insanely slow this is left side of carbs that line gose into top side of carbs may be better if i take the air box off

    • #4074
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      Are you on face book bud or anything or could u maybe just say like the lift pip hookes up there my resizing saveing just isnt working for some reson its worked on a few but can not find the rest of my pics an yes am doing this all from moblie 😂😂 think that makes it harder

    • #4076
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      Gt comet
      Points: 96

      So i just tired hookin up line from pump to tank an other like to top of fule tap still left with one pipe on the fule tap with no where to go

    • #4078
      ♠️ MARCEL
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      @mf448kxn6
      North UK
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      From your reply in the other thread…

      Thats answered some of my questions but my tank dose not have that it has 2 pips that come down to a fule tap with one connect on top and 2 on the bottom so am guessing set up will be different? Or the guy i bought the bike off was laughing all the way to the bank

      Now,  because you have a 2003-2004 1st generation tank that is meant for a GT Naked older ones. The naked comets usually have an ON/OFF manual tap on the side of the frame (left). I don’t see it in your pics or it was removed.
      I have one, those tanks didn’t have an “automatic vacuum” tap that’s on later Comets or ALL GTR125’s (05 onwards)

      Now then,  you have 2-twin outlets close to each other under the tank.
      _ Outlet #1 = Fit a mini pipe there.
      _ Outlet #2 = Fit a mini pipe there again.
      Now outlet 1 & 2 will join with ===> a plastic or brass T-Junction (get one)===>

      This T-Junction ====> will have a 3rd port free ===> connect that to the fuel filter that’s going to the pump.

      Remember, the pic you uploaded…
      Don’t remove the pipe that’s going to the carb, it is correct there.
      Also, where your filter is connected, leave it there, it’s correct.
      Thirdly, there is a pipe that’s from the PUMP going to the ENGINE MANIFOLDS. That is correct. That’s vacuum feed  (see this tutorial here, for clarification)

      Now,  go back to your engine manifolds (those rubber pipes under the carbs), there should be ONLY 1 PIPE going to the rear pump only.

      Any extra pipe that is joined to the rubber manifolds ===> just blank them tightly with a bung/thickbolt & clamp.    You don’t have a “vacuum TAP under the tank”, so there is no need for extra pipes.

      There is something (or not) on the bike that controls fake emissions aka egr as its infamously called.  Throw it in the bin, it’s a useless device and the bike won’t miss it.

      Now , you have wayyyy less headache dealing with all kinds of pipes.

      Make sure…….
      – Engine (front or rear) has the metal EGR pipe blocked.
      – AIRBOX (under it) has the egr hole blocked. I can’t stress this.

      Take ya time with my reply because this is as good as i can break it down.

      Or

      If you have a “manual  ON/OFF tap” (which is mounted on the LEFT frame…..) , then  yes……. 2-twin outlets under the tank must go there….. the filter joins the frame TAP also…

      Otherwise What i have been saying all above ^ is supposed to be a temp solution, as it’s ideal to have an ON/OFF tap mounted to the frame  or  a tank that has an automatic-tap (vacuum operated).   Not ideal to have fuel always (on) A manual tap turns it off when bike isn’t in use or  vacuum operated tap also does that too when engine shuts off, but i am digressing too much, i may go off track with this reply , this will be a discussion for another time.

      It’s 1am as i write this, so excuse me for digressing, some things i had to clarify once more…. but good luck!

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #4080
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      Thank you bud this means a lot to me as i been stressing an struggling to get it all togeather an right way been aboustly sick i have just got a t piece to connect it all up am gonna go out try it once i had a coffee yes it has manual tap the the back of carbs had a small pip link them up as well as breather pip on the bottom so with all this info should be abel to get this sorted now thank you so much its very much appreciated  bud

    • #4084
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      Points: 96

      Ok so now i have hooked up may have a pip wrong revs are all over but it dose respond and i have hydolocked it a few times i think i know the wrong connections just unsure Where it should be i am think as shit lol i hate these setups lol any ways i have the small black line from top of carbs left side hoock in to line with with filter both full lines into tap with bottom feeding in to pump thats the filter one thats the one i also hooked to top pipe of the carbs maybe problem with carb floots pr something heres 2 pics to show if u can see ok an when lock down is over id like to by you a pint for help me lol will up load in a min

    • #4097
      Sean
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      @comet89
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    • #4099
      Sean
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      @comet89
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    • #4101
      Sean
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      @comet89
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    • #4102
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      So this set up dose work how eva fule poors out well not poors out but runs out of the 2 brass holes at the top of the carbs bike dose respond but dies off affter few minutes it redlines to so can rev very hard will not tick over very difficult  to start sometime other times ti starts straight away have a vid but dont think that would be up loadabel

    • #4103
      ♠️ MARCEL
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      @mf448kxn6
      North UK
      GTR
      Points: 4,200

      Okay, that orange tank, the bottom 2-twin outlets must go to the frame tap.

      I can’t see your frame tap,  but i will assume this…… The  “frame tap” sends fuel to the filter ====> then filter to the rear pump

      I can’t see your tap to make a judgetment of how many outlets it has on it. Some are 2 INPUT  => 1 Output   or     2 Input + 1 Output + 1 Overflow via carb.

      Which moves to my next point below

      See the pipes under the float bowl covers  == 2 BIG ONES facing up ^ the sky  joined by a single hose?

      That is normally going BACK to the tap (incase your carb is overflow, it returns fuel back to the tap or the bike fell on its side, it acts as overflow)

      Later model carbs  don’t need this setup  because they overflow in a different way

      So in summary, you definitely have a bike with more classic set up and older carb  than the images you see in my tutorials  but you aint far off.

      Remember my earlier replies , i said where your pump has a grey pipe feeding your carb, = that is the correct one.  Fuel must not enter the carb except via the single gray line from the pump (with springs over top of HT wires, etc…).

      When you use picresize,  please try   1,000 x 1,000 pixels or  1.5MB per picture so that it blows up nice n clear when i zoom. I know you’re on the phone and sorry to make you go the extra mile.

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #4106
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      Right i got ya bud i think i now know roughly how it it should be yes 2 pipes feeding in the fule tap one on top witch is fule feed in so what should i do with the over flow then just pop it to the side nice an neatly thats whats been give me the problem is that pipe now i know what it is ahhhhh yeyeyeyeyeyey thank you bud

    • #4108
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      so the think pipe thats loped dose not hook up any where nor dose the bottom ones i thought where over flow lol ones lol vacum  is correct an hooked so is top so all i need to do is top feed full filter into pump this sounds good.

    • #4112
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      O so all back together now an sorted pritty much am start a let a run for a bit since puting air box back with clean fliter shes not likeing to rev much in face almost chokes a self out would i be correct in thinking or mayby doing away with air box fit some k&n dome filters ? As i sed befor the exhoust dose not look standard to me and a problem left side indicating dose not work so thats the switch right lol thank you again for all you help you must be sick of me 😂😂

    • #4111
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      O so all back together now an sorted pritty much am start a let a run for a bit since puting air box back with clean fliter shes not likeing to rev much in face almost chokes a self out would i be correct in thinking or mayby doing away with air box fit some k&n dome filters ? As i sed befor the exhoust dose not look standard to me and a problem left side indicating dose not work so thats the switch right lol thank you again for all you help you must be sick of me 😂😂

    • #4118
      ♠️ MARCEL
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      @mf448kxn6
      North UK
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      O so all back together now an sorted pritty much am start a let a run for a bit since puting air box back with clean fliter shes not likeing to rev much in face almost chokes a self out would i be correct in thinking or mayby doing away with air box fit some k&n dome filters ? As i sed befor the exhoust dose not look standard to me and a problem left side indicating dose not work so thats the switch right lol thank you again for all you help you must be sick of me 😂😂

      Because its a CV carb that is also upside down, Mikunis do not want pod filters, they hate it.  Every hyo owner has tried and failed, believe me the airbox wins.

      The best mod for air is dropping a K&N Kit with uprated jets because it flows extra air, you don’t want to lean out  (that rear motor gets hot, you may lose piston due to leaning out!)

      The overflow can face the ground if it has no where to hook to , but caution to always check before riding so that nothing is leaking .

      When i say leaking, you want to make sure the carb is cleaned out properly and the floats are 7mm max.

      Put the carb on table with the floats facing the sky, the float will be 7mm high,  NO LESS and NO MORE.  Them things control how much fuel comes in from 0mph to top gear.

      When the bike acts boggy  (in any shape or form) that is always almost a clogged fuel system  (dirty filter,  lines rotting inside which are too old, carb has clogged particles because there is many holes,  the 125 jets have tiny holes, so it doesn’t take much to clog them,  also consider the air filter,  any filter beyond 12K old must be changed or you see the white/yellow filter turn dirty it will feel like it’s chocking with less air flow)

      If the entire fuel system was OK (including the tap and pump) then your last war for boggyness is usually the electrics.    Deal with the fuel side before attacking electrics but  electrics vs fuel will be as good as each other.

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #4125
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      I can not thank you enough or all your advice an help shes responding so much better shes almost there ready to go for mot ermm you wouldnt happen to know where i could get a brake cal from i have tired we moto few otherplaces i have tryed facebook an parts for these seem to be so hard to get possibley because mine is so old what would u think if i managed to get a newer one crashed damaged but moto an rest of it was ok to swop out and upgrade i did originally wanna get the 250 engine in but that would be sutch a pain i think

    • #4129
      ♠️ MARCEL
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      @mf448kxn6
      North UK
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      Assuming “brake cal” in your replies means “caliper”
      Ordering a new caliper from trade won’t be cheap , but i will have a caliper rebuilt and tested to list on my ebay in a few weeks as i have had other work to do in the way.

      Otherwise, you can always browse the /shop/ section to get caliper rebuild kits to save the old , could still work out cheaper than ordering a new one anyway.

      Some folk on FB marketplace don’t always test or act honest about their bits tbh, so use caution and ask them if the pistons , pins, etc etc are seized up.

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #4089
      Sean
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      @comet89
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    • #4095
      Sean
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      @comet89
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    • #4233
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      Thank you bud you are amzing an shes now just about ready to off for mot lets hope she passes ermm yeah manged just to save old caliper hours of drilling old in lol that an nice big hammer took some time to reprsureize an blead but ì kinda wormed it up a it worked great let it go cold make sure it was all good 😁😁 have to say a massive  thank you

    • #4250
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      • Ok new issues discoves on attempt a test ride 😂😂 gears will not go in by foot not the way it should anyway ermm i have adjusted gear seltor it just wont kick up the box think new one is in oder or something it gose in by hand though
    • #4253
      ♠️ MARCEL
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      @mf448kxn6
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      Not sure how to reply as I tried to read your comment, so it’s hard to give you a specific answer lol.

      Either you adjust the rearsets on the frame or else there is internal issues (ie. cables, bent gear rods, clutch basket inside the bike worn down, plates, springs etc)

      A faulty gearbox is the last thing you want, that’s a whole other mission to fix.

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

    • #4356
      Sean
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      @comet89
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      Its ok sorry for stuch a late replay i need may need to do my cam chain tensioner an haveing  a few issues now i am on Facebook hyo group they say air leak but all pipes are solid and that so wish me luck for the comeing week i have a manual so tensioner should be easy i hope and my have a new carb comeing as person that had it last much of used lòck tight or something every screw has had to be cut or drilled out think i bought a pig in a poke 😔 but see what we can do lol thank you for all your help bud

    • #4360
      ♠️ MARCEL
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      @mf448kxn6
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      Manual tensioner = risky business. Too tight, chain snaps eventually, too loose the cams skip teeth.
      Manual is usually race team stuff as they gonna rebuild engines anyway after a race

      For daily street riding, i’ve always kept using the automatic ones. They last long enough as long as you stay on top of valve clearance jobs and ofcouse check chain and cam sprocket every now and then

      1 guy ran manual tensioners and was keeping tabs with me, he ruined his engine.

      If its 09 and below, then yes the big head tensioners are okay. If its a new-shape RC bike with a skinny head tensioner, then use 650 ones as they tend to last a bit better. The early 125CC 2010 RC onwards to 14 had new design tensioners with a “flat silver” tip inside. these are lethal ones. Again, RC new shape bike – use 650 ones. They have a grey curvy tip end inside.

      I’ve got some stock of NEW shape tensioners and gaskets if need be , old shape ones i can always order them in if required if not in a rush, as u know corona stuff has slowed logistics in most places.

      If you copy the link on facebook and post it here, there ill see if you’re the same person then ill respond back here.

      // Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....

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