♠️ M77
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Hi Marcel, thank you. As regards the EGR I’m not sure what the emissions laws are like here in Spain and the bike is due for it’s ITV (MOT) in December. Does removing the EGR have much affect on emissions?
Speak to the garage about that. If it’s not there, they probably won’t bother checking, it’s a carb’d bike anyways.
Block rear #2 hole.
Front hole and rear #1 join up =>>>> feed the vacuum pump.
Delete the egr. Less pipe work too. Dont forget to block airbox hole for egr and engine metal pipe.
I have injected & carb models of gt & gv. If i was you , i would stay on carb. Farrrrrrrr less drama believe me.
In either case, you want them at equal height 🙂 .
The needles themselves should be equal height on the table.
Then fit on the slides using 3rd or 4th groove to suit the bike. Test ride. And do the usual plug check for a hint of lean / rich.
Best place to get a cam chain for gt125r
Send a new email title *Cam Chain order* and you may get a new one next week. Its here and some young goof used ones (2017 bike stripped)
Three.
The furthest the needle is out of carb the richer it gets. You dont want it too rich 😉
Go on our FB group. Tap *Files* section of that group. Find GV125/250 service manual there. It details the whole process with some cartoon diagrams. I will try upload it on this forum next time i update the site shortly.
If 1 needle has 3 grooves –> the other one must be in equal height. (could be also 4 or 3rd slot) ,
either way a digital caliper can measure the needle height (AFTER) both are fitted on the black piston slides. you want both carbs equal in all cases.
middle of 3 grooves is factory. on a factory 3 groove needle.
It means time to change:
- Barrel , Piston with Rings , Tensioner
And likely also:
- Check valves aint bent.
- Cam chain isnt worn down or replace it ideally
- Change tappet numbers (WHEN you do timings and clearances , *must be done* )
As with new parts, run it in for few hundred miles.
7mm is correct.
17mm is human error and if you tried 17mm the bike will have big issues later.
so new piston and rings then should solve the problem then? Also there is smoke coming from the rocker cover when engine running
Have you taken apart the motor or has the mechanic looked at it?
What kind of smoke? from where? is the cover loose? is there a spillage of oil? A bit more info helps.
If you find a spare key, send a DM to me and ill post a blank that you can go to keycutters to copy.
Otherwise, you have to change barrel and fuel cap. DM me again as i have a used barrel & fuel cap with one key going for cheaps. no used pillion lock as i sold it sadly.
Check this out. Its in the comments of this post.
https://m.facebook.com/groups/345623961212?view=permalink&id=10155719738771213
I think I replied on FB group didnt I?
Hope you’re the same guy and managed to get it sorted then?
Sorry Mick i delayed. Did you get anywhere with this then? Things changed so something went amiss didnt it ?
Laser ones (IA) at the shop are better than the overhyped IX ones. IX-Blue plugs are old tech that’s hyped up too much, hyosungs don’t like them (ix) or stock ones will do just fine.
PM me about the sprocket , ill see what i can do.
P0171 = Too much air or fuel system is lean. The BMC flows more air than a stock unit, the ecu will sense that with its sensors near the airbox or via lambda sensor as emissions burnt is sensed to be leaner.
Hey,
Check out this topic regarding mirror suggestions especially to do with extending it.
Mods.
As this is a new *injected* bike. Last thing we want to is add wrong electrics or poor exhaust / intake mods that will upset the ecu / make it run weird. So i am heavily researching this bike as it shares zero parts from previous (CARB) GV125s.
For now, at the shop, there is spark plugs which burn a little cleaner than stock so that should improve throttle response just a tad.
I want to do a 530/525 kit exclusively for the efi 125 gv. Please PM me so i can discuss your rear sprocket for gearing as i will get one made.
Older GVs were proven to max out 91-94 while overtaking, with zero mods. just a 520 kit! See below 😉
He is not even at redline yet.
Hey, i got your email, and reply to the same email again so i don’t lose the conversation from there.
Just wanted to quickly add , i hope the carb mixtures were not played with.
Let’s put electrics aside for now, lets talk these:
- Clearances ? Got figures ? – They matter a lot
- Good compression
- Was the carb played with ? Read my reply on this link below:
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/gt125-hassle/#post-4816
Hey welcome to the site and how nice of you to move yourself and your bike to the north islands, but sorry that it is wet sometimes! We get that in England too lol.
So let’s jump right to it;
– Use OEM rubber “dust covers” which hide the engine hole , they are on ebay i usually stock them
– We don’t know on NGK caps of how old they were but we have to assume NGK products rarely fail anyways unless there was some kind of cosmetic damage
– Try to replace the HT wire with magnecor ones (from coil to the cap)
– Try to download the manual on this forum and then follow its guide on how to test your ignition coils to make sure they are in OEM specs.
– On the same manual , try to remove the airbox, and then test the electrical parts that are mounted near the engine and box ,
– Check the frame isn’t rusty. Use contact cleaner to “clean every single” exposed wire, every PLUG you find on the bike.
– Done ? Get “ACF50”, then apply a small “rain drop” of that stuff in every single plug (INSIDE), this is electrical safe anti-rust agent and also protects from weather attacks (it tries!)- Check your spark plugs
- check your air filter , because if water went in , it will annoy the injectors trying to atomize the fuel
- make sure the harness is good front to back using contact cleaner and the acf50 bottle as mentioned above ^, because its naked bike , so a bit more attention is need compared to a faired up bike in some cases.Try these and see how you get on. Good luck fella!
