♠️ M77
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This is shared on the FB group also.
Hope someone has a sale for ya 👍
Hey,
The 2008 has an Mk1 subframe which means old gen seats only.
You can ring Skidmax UK for a solo seat rear hump.
What kind of styling parts you also thinking of?
Hi, it’s in progress. You will get a private message soon.
Hey.
I would start with the main thing (sometimes overlooked) is the carb.
– Has it gone through a deep clean session (eg. Every single hole air blasted with a compressor and liquid cleaner)
– has it had its floats messed with? (5mm instead of 7mm)
– how the slide walls for diaphragm?
– how are the diaphragm slides?
– how are the main jets and pilots?
– how OLD is your fuel filter (miles)
– do you see particles inside fuel filter?
– do you see particles in air filter and how old is it? (Miles)While at it.
– how are the manifolds of the bike?
– have the O-Rings of the manifold changed recently for fresh ones?
– manifold clamps OK?
– what colour is your spark plugs and can we see ? (To make better judgement too)What i have asked above directly affects your question. Each line of question should be addressed until your bike starts to run better. Because also what i said above can be repeated from the service manuals of various carby hyosungs.
Stage 3 Final.
Connect all stator plugs back to the main bike harness.
Start the engine and let her idle at 1800 revs HOT.
Set your meter to DC 20 Volts (must be DC)
Go to your battery terminals.
Measure how many volts is showing at 1800 rpm.
Do this AGAIN at 5,000 revs.
Now let us know what it says.
1. 1800rpm = volts?
2. 5000 rpm = volts?Do all 3 stages as i said above. Ill report back how your charging system is.
Stage 2.
Turn off the bike.
Disonnect the stator 2PIN plug (blue and green)
Set meter to 200 OHMS (not thousands)
Tell us what it says.
Do this when engine is COLD (real cold)
Once you get the figures. Let us know.
Go to the stator.
Follow the wires going up to the main harness.
Ignore the regulator. Dont disconnect it. Not even its 5 pin solo plug. Leave it.
The stator has its own 3 PIN yellow plug.
Disconect AT the bike harness (you will find it as you find out where the stator finally joins the harness.
Just 3 yellow pin plug. unhook just that.
Now start the bike and rev to 5k revs and hold it there.
Set your meter to AC volts.
See the yellow 3 pin plug of the STATOR ? do this.
Pin 1 and Pin 2 = Put your meter red and black probes in any order.
Get voltage readings at 5k revs.
Next…..
Pin 2 and Pin 3 = what is the voltage?
Pin 3 and Pin 1 = what is the voltage?
Now…
We have measured across all 3 pins and reply back with 3 separate values.
Pin1+2=40v / Pin2+3=34.5v / Pin3+1=25.8v as example.
Set your meter to AC 200 volts or AC500v (beyond 200AC)
You should try again and run the 3 yellow stator wires in AC mode while engine is running and unplugged 3 yellow plug. We need running voltages , check my replies above again on how to test the charge system.
I like michelins especially for winter, always used em on all bikes.
I like the scenery of the first image, nice capture 😉
I have improved my lights on my other comet by using better bulbs (Philips Xtreme vision or Osram NB) ether on GTR or GT. Plus ofcourse i upgraded the reg, stator unit and made sure battery is in spec (not running down because of age etc) Yuasa is generally good when the charging system is in spec. Never dared to go hid route for years even though countrysides are generally pitch black to ride through in winters lol.
My replies should be in purple 🏍
- The plugs are brand new I only put them in when I put everything back on the bike after the upgrades so only done about 5 miles, the original plugs were a chocolate colour when I removed them so that would indicate to me that everything else was ok as regards clearances, oil, stator and rectifier prior to reinstalling carb’s, coils, cap’s and plugs. Would you agree?
If your plugs are new = address the intake and fueling system as i was saying above
The coils & caps won’t be questioned, they are new or bike wouldn’t start.
Make sure plug says CR8E on them.
- But I will check both stator and rectifier reading.
Good idea, if electrics are all investigated, we won’t suspect them again and you might as well do it as part of a major service & “inspection” to bike , testing the parts is inspecting (to check if they are still in OEM values after however long you have owned it because most owners understand hyo stators and regs are not great from 125 to 650, we all been there, but its good to keep an eye)
When you say check airboxes “both ofthem” what do you mean by both of them?
Both top engine box where it swallows carbs -> check clamps, and missing holes not covered (JUST INCASE you got rid of the EGR , go blank the missing hole to stop unwanted air being sucked in)
Check vac hoses and block any missing holes for EGR
Check the airbox that’s holding the filter on the right side of the bike.Should I move the needles down to the fourth groove?
As far out of the carb as possible. – Test run with that setting.
SAND paper the plugs until they are clear from black soot (gently!)
or find ways to clean your plugs. Then look again after test run.You also said the needles are not oem because they have more than three groove’s is that correct?
OEM is 3 grooves, i’ve cleaned a lot of these hyosung carbs there is always 3.Yikes!
The black ring should be brown as milk chocolate. Its a sign you should check clearances and also see if you can get a pro to check mixture (because me advising what turns to put on mixture is rare unless i have the bike at hand myself and will check if it needs balancing afterwards etc) This is a caution.
Now the big issue. And ride less until this is resolved. See the both plugs have a WHITE center cone that is almost clean fresh. Few things come to mind and attack each of them without missing either:
- Clearances
- Overheating engine. Check your oil is JASO MA2 grade. And try use Motul Ester or Silkolene Ester. It must say Ester.
- Air leak or too much air.
- Air leak via intake Orings
- Air leak via airboxes (both of them)
- Is the Rectififer producing 14v at idle?
- Is the Rectifier producing 14.5-15V at 5k revs?
- Check stator 2 pin plug under 200 ohms and tell us what it says. (While bike is OFF and ice cold)
- Check stator 3 pin plug for voltage produced at 5k revs. ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DISCONNECT 2 PIN PLUG. SET METER TO *AC VOLTS*. MEASURE PIN1 AND PIN2 = Volts?
- Then Pin2 and Pin3
- Then Pin1 and 3
Your stator is both ignition and charging system. your cdi and coils wont run without it or they perform poorly if stator and rectifier are not in spec.
Thus will explain if the plugs arent firing hard enough or weirdly. after all you have new coils ans NGK caps so i will ignore these 2 products.
Change spark plugs to fresh ones.
What i said above ^ ; also explains the delayed rpms.
Delayed rpms and WHITE center of plug is also a sign the carb needs checking on these (again sorry):
- Check intake manifolds and be VERY VERY GENTLE please. Not made anymore!
- Slide Needle is too deep inside the carb cause less fuel to come out (lean setting).
- Float height must be 7mm be sure of it.
- Jets clogged Pilots and Mains yes. Delayed rpms are also pilots. white center cone of plug is mains and slide needle or air intake system issue (too much) or electrics as above^.
See the ARCH of the end of plug is almost bright grey colour. it should be dark brown as a sign that motor isnt overheating or leaning out due to everything i said above ^
In essense. the whole plug should have zero black marks and a FULL milk choc color everywhere inside the white cone or dark-ish brown (oak wood)
Good luck!
However even though the bike is running so much better it has a flat spot between 4k and 5k rpm, any Idea as to what could be causing this. !!!
Pilot Jets or Slide Needle too rich / too lean (you want to be in middle or just slightly rich due to having extra grooves compared to a factory needle that only has 3 which means its longer needle than factory) ,
like before above comments also, i mentioned plug check, you’ve still yet to report that. We have to see it.
Until the corona crap is over, major ride outs are on pause until then (least ones organized by us)
Hundreds have probably tried pods on GTs and GV twins of the small capacity (125/250), they always failed. Even myself, I tried every trick to keep the bike happy on pods but sadly, the airbox always wins.
So i would keep the box 👍
Hey Mike,
Have you downloaded the manual on this site /technical section/ manuals and get the GD one.
Then navigate the book to where it tells you how to activate dealer mode to display error codes stored in the bike.
You also havent said if the bike was running pristine before ?
You will be surprised how easily clogged the pilots get. If you still have stock coils , consider investigating em as per original reply above. Not many people worldwide like the stock Hankuk/Woochang coils.
We shall see how your plugs are , laser ones do burn a little better on a richer setup bike. But again, we shall see before i draw any more conclusions.
Check spark plug and put the picture here front and rear so I see how dark or light the white cones are.
Also poorer running is a result of the following
- Valve Clearances
- Carb float must be 7mm (all 4 floats inside)
- Slide needle too rich / too lean (this is midrange from 2k to 6k revs)
- exhaust modified ? (Make exit hole / baffle of exhaust size of a 10p british coin or 2.4cm diameter hole at exhaust => the bigger the hole, the flatter it feels, some pressure needs to stay inside)
- Coils will do their job but we don’t know how strong the CAPS are (stock caps?)
- Coils also run a little better when your charge system is better (stator® + battery)
- Clean rear pump.
- Spray intake boots and airbox with carb cleaner => if revs change, you have a leak
if you change gears or downshift etc, and bike feels delayed in picking up revs etc, pilot jets are clogged again. Don’t play with the fuel mixture screws and leave it OEM.
Check your clutch plates and springs vs oem limits (get 650 manual on this forum)
Adjust the cable to avoid too much freeplay
.Worst case is the gearbox will need looking at.
Hey,
Since you took the carb apart; the fuel was drained. It takes a few cranks for the fuel to eventually fill the carb bowls then it starts cause the pilot jets dont reach deep enough to start drinking and idling away. Choke speeds things up.
Revving to 6k is caused by either of these = manifold leaks , airbox leaks (both airboxes top and right) , loose intake clamps , leaking vacuum port on manifolds , carb not sitting properly , choke cable stuck (?)
Check choke is fully disengage BY THE CARB itself , check throttle cable and OPERATE THE SWING GATE (where cable slots in) at the carb by hand after disconnecting throttle line. if revs go down after cables removed , investigate lines or metal assemblies where cables join to carb.
Hope that helps.
- The plugs are brand new I only put them in when I put everything back on the bike after the upgrades so only done about 5 miles, the original plugs were a chocolate colour when I removed them so that would indicate to me that everything else was ok as regards clearances, oil, stator and rectifier prior to reinstalling carb’s, coils, cap’s and plugs. Would you agree?
