♠️ M77
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Welcome to the site, sorry I didn’t respond sooner. If it is a new EFi (injected type) GV125 Aquila, you should have recieved the manual with it and the dealer supposed to have set the clocks to MPH before handing the keys over to you.
The exhaust headers use 1x security dot torx and 1 normal tall nut, these torx heads are some of the most annoying fasteners to use on a motorcycle header , but i suspect korea did this as some kind of anti tempering if the bike was still under some warranty
Welcome fella, nice bike. I do like the Yellow!
I responded to your other topic too.There is ways to repair the inlet rubber when people used things like tiger seals and what not , to be honest personally ill only have inlets to sell in about a month or more , due house move i am not working as full time as i would like until i settle in a new time and rebuild my workshop in a new area.
Though, I do have caliper bodies ready for dispatch on the @evocrest ebay channel
Also stainless steel piston kits ready to go in the hyoriders shop above ^ , as I usually keep emegency sets for urgent orders than waiting 2 weeks for my cnc guy to make some.
Also likely to have some used but good nick OEM pistons (x2) , sending me an email would be best or a PM on this forum for further info.
If your pistons aint rusted badly and pistons move freely, it could be the master cylinder itself and (50/50) chance brake fluid is old.
Should be around 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out front
Then the rear about 2 3/4 turns out. Be very wise. Very delicate screws. Clean the area hard 1st.
Float height 7mm. Not less. Not more
Jets Pilot – Size 15 each. Check again and confirm you can shine light through em.
Main jets 87.5 front and 90 rear or upgrade to 90 front and 92.5 rear
Slide needle should be middle groove or 3rd groove towards pointy tip
What i said and how to do so is at the above links of tutorials of jetting and slide adjustment.
Carb would still have to be the culprit is your compression is bang on.
Next time. Clean plugs. Go ride whatever highest speed safely then turn off plug.
Upload pictures of front and rear spark plugs so i can see how dark your threads are and how dark the middle of the plug tips are. Its time to get visual now
Best of luck!
The compression on both cylinder is 150 psi and stays at 150 psi
That is good. Engine seems OK.
You may want to drain the oil.
Put back the plug with the spring in the right order , spin the wheel until you can select first gear (center stand) or rise the rear. Leave engine off.
Pray no damage was done when engine was running cause the gearbox does have a cam shaft of its own.
Hope this can quickly fix it and let us know. Id hate to pull it apart too.
I use Motul products they are always ace for the job especially the Factory Line grade.
I had a water cooled 125 many years ago and this always served me.
Link to product
https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/motocool-factory-line
If you are absolutely sure every word i said is checked out cause it still sounds too much like the carb. I would try to check over what you havent checked.
If not , at least do a compression test and let us know what PSI is each engine head. Just to get the top end out of the way.
Hey.
You can use any GT EFi tank as they usually use the same pump fittings.
The only warning is that some EFI tanks use smaller Fuel Level Sensors. Its good to get a nice used tank that has a working pump and sensor as they can be expensive buying separately new.
Sorry for late reply.
Hi Marcel When I shift to 1st gear fairly loud clicking noise can be heard and generally shifting to other gears are stiff and a bit noisy compare to say Kawasaki Ninja. It has done 3000 miles. Idle speed yesterday droped to 15k it could be the weather.
Change the oil, and use Motul 7100 10w50 or 10w60 (NOT 10w40) , get what is in bold. It may help.
Oil change guide is here below:
[Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Filter on Hyosung GV + GT125/250 +R
Second, check your gear linkages arent loose from engine to the rearset hanger
Last, check the chain isn’t too slack. It will affect gear changes 100%
Let us know if this helped at all.
Hey,
It sounds like first off all the carb is heavily clogged up , you would be advised to get access to Air Compressor (as per OEM) and some liquid carb cleaner (don’t skip air compressor trust me)
– Clean the Main Jets, Pilots, Starting Enrichment Tube (the jet that doesnt come out in the carb)
– Clean the slides , check the rubber isn’t torn (put it up in the sky and see if light shines thru)(Can’t stress this object)
– Clean every hole thats inside the carb sekelon itself, those are air and fuel passages. Very tiny holes.Once you have finished cleaner, check the 2 tutorials below to confirm your “Slide Needle” is in the factory or rich position (NOT lean!) and also that your main jets are in correct size (stock or not) and PILOTS are marked “15” each. (Critical)
[Tutorial] How to swap Carb Main Jets – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Report back to the forum with your results after a quick test ride. Don’t forget to clean the plugs.
If we can address the monstrosity of a carb, then it will be easier to diagnose everything else in the bike if problems persist.
Last shout, when cleaning carb, be very religious about it! Best of luck!
1700 HOT is okay and very good.
Noises , you will have to elaborate more if you can ?
It’s called the “overflow – t-piece” , it’s not normally a part sold in large numbers hence scarcity , nor do anyone have a reason to mess with it.
Otherwise get 2 long pipes with steel jubilees and clamp each carb pot.
We have stainless piston kits ready to go now . It’s at the shop page
On our ebay we have cleaned & ready caliper bodies (no pistons in it)
Why not use your own caliper and rebuild it with fresh pistons ?
I have had clients email me to make a custom harness and supply an aftermarket reg with a good stator unit, I had to send all 3 together to do away with the stock Hyosung 650 charging system even the stator was near the oem service limit, it was better to do it all & over with , but i understand it isn’t cheap either. I wouldn’t use cheapo units tbh (taiwanese made). If the Korea’s outsourced daewoo part was bad, i can’t see taiwanese folk doing better.
No i have not performed this task, I am mechanically minded but lack the confidence to pull the carbs apart and put them back together again and have hem perform their task like they should,
Is there anyone local that can take your carbs off and do cleaning to em in the methods i described above?
There is also a tutorial on this forum called Main Jet Tutorial , use that as a guide on how to remove the carbs off the bike and how to put them back on after a pro has done a cleaning session on them?
Youtube is filled with many tutorials on how to clean carbs in general bikes but i would caution to take everything very slowly due to the fact Hyosung parts can be tricky to get instantly in some regions god forbid anything gets missing
If we can get this main object out of the way, everything else will be easier.
Have you taken apart the carb bottom and top covers , take all parts out and dip in ultrasonic bath , or air compressor (OEM suggested) and also liquid carb cleaner to clean outside the skeleton body and inside if there wasnt an ultrasonic bath involved? It’s really crucial it gets a clean then retest it. Then we can further diagnose the next steps in the carb fueling.
Sorry Luke you will have to take them off again
You have to turn the carb’s so that the float’s are pointing upwards and the float is just resting on the needle valve, measure the height from the top edge of the body to the top float, the measurement should be 7mm.I have just checked the GV125 Service Manual. It says the float height should be 17mm. It’s currently at 7mm. Is this correct?
Koreans should be more clear.
17mm = when carb is sitting on bike manifolds.
7mm = upside down on the table. 🙂
