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You said carb is dry.
Do you know if the fuel pump is working?
Crank the bike for 5 seconds and see if fuel is shooting out of a hose in to a bucket?
If yes,
Carb floats should be 7mm height (when carb is upside down on table)
If yes, put carb on the bike.
Crank for 5 seconds.
Do you see fuel draining out if you open float bowl screws? rear float? Front float? Both have fuel?
Update. Needle sliders are moving freely. Just come back from a test ride. Unfortunately no change. Again rides slightly better without the air filter but still bogging badly. Any more suggestions please?
How fast do revs climb up?
The GV doesnt need a snorkel cutting , that applied to the GT bikes due to their more restrictive filter.
By any chance can you upload pics of your spark plugs? We can see if the mixture is too rich or lean.
Have you been spraying carb cleaner near the manifolds, airbox openings, and airbox mounts (on the carb openings) to see for change of revs?
Welcome mark.
We have a few 650s still on the road. Hopefully someone will DM you
I told someone in my phone chats also tonight.
Ive shared on FB Group also 👍
Thanks for the review on the 520 kit Joe it’s on my list as the next upgrade just haven’t seen any reviews from other owners so was waiting to pull the trigger on it.👍
You know you want to 😉
Upgraded the chain and sprockets on my GV 125 c, to the 520 chain, and what a difference it makes. From pulling away for the first time after fitting the differene was clear. Smoother and faster transference of power to the back wheel through the gears and fourth really does feel like fifth. Really happy with this feels like a new bike. Cheers Marcel 😛
I am glad you enjoyed it 🙂
If you can, maybe copy this and paste on the page where the chain kit was.
There is a review there also by another member which should tell you expectations.
I would like to know on that chain page if his bike has matched yours too 🙂
Hey welcome to the club 🙂
Let’s try the basics before we get too technical.
- Can you take out the spark plug and connect it to the HT lead
- Then place the spark plug on your engine cover BOLT (ground)
- Avoid rust spots or painted parts.
- Crank your bike.
Does coil Front Spark?
Does coil Rear Spark?If yes, to BOTH engines, can you spray carb cleaner inside the airbox ?
Does it try to start ? (even for 2 seconds)
Let us know!
In regard to bar ends, on the Hyosung’s are they one piece or are you able to take the end off to replace with an aftermarket one? Or likewise do I have to replace the whole clip on?
If you have the naked GT it should have a straight bar with factory bar ends already.
The GT650S and 650R have solid clip ons yes. they are still the most bolt on clipons due to the fact top fork clamp holds them extra secure by 1 additional bolt. Look under neath one you may see what i was saying.
Aftermarkets tend to be chinese made universals not something i would dare fit myself. yes other brands may fit the fork size , how to stop them rotating (forbid) is another question. Even though they are tight on fork without additional bolt assissted by top fork clamp, i still have better confidence from oem ones.
There may be a way to do it to original fork clamped clipons but time & effort?
It should be fine.
Use LiqyMoly 4T shooter in your tank to soft clean whatever may be inside the lines coming for the tank.
The additives of the wrong kind can leave a bit of an oil residue.
Also bare in mind sometimes engine does *blow by gasses* then it leaves a thin layer of oil (when it turns from hot mist to liquid) in the airbox but its normal. As long as bike operates normally.
Welcome fella.
I will increase the server capacity to a few more MB. Sorry i didnt get round to it. Should be an easier mission over weekend lol.
She looks pretty!
Where did you purchase the manual from?
You can find the pdf versions of the 650 manuals here:
These comments came from my replies to someone trying to switch over from a carby 125 to efi 125. Use these words as some kind of wisdom if you like as the 650 may have a similar principal. Also it is possible and easier on 650 than 125 but time , effort, lots of money plus the fact carby is more reliable than EFI due to less electronics involved. Yes EFI is crisp but it has own other imperfections (for example sometimes throttle is like on and off, than smooth revs up/down , in other words, throttle behavior can be snatchy if you wanted to be precise).
Cant happen.
The EFi 250 system is shit. Problems = big bank balance to fix!Also EFi 250 means it wants a 250 engine. It will not run smoothly whatsoever on a 125. Fuel mapping on ECU
Then it wants your engine to have ET , IAP , SAV , Injectors , 02 , RO , EFI magento, other sensors , efi dash, efi harness and the rest of the lot. Not one. All of it.
I have multiple efi machines i know lol.
I may have said also
If you ask me. Carby is ALWAYS better to work on. Less drama with zillion sensors.
Can I ask what is wrong with the carby setup?
Hey Nathan, yes if there the same shape seat. Just don’t fit new gen seats that’s all!
Jan 12, 2021 at 8:24 PM in reply to: [How to Tutorial] Change Vacuum Lines on Hyosung GT125R GT250R & GT Comet (Air Hose Diagram) #5383My set up is different to this , I don’t have two connections on the rear intake boot and the tank has no vacuum connector on it ,just two stubby connectors that connect to the fuel tap on the side of frame
It’s okay, the pre-05 had manual side mounted taps than a vacuum one. So as usual the tank feeds the frame tap. Then tap => filter => to rear pump. The manifolds on the engine will only feed the rear pump. Both joined in a T-piece then single line towards the rear pump.
I know this is old but man this is super confusing. my bike does not have 2 connectors. can someone please explain what the frame tap is?
Frame Tap = Tap that is mounted on the left side of the frame and it has ON/OFF/RESERVE markings on it. GTR bikes use vacuum taps since they entered the market. Later GT nakeds switched to vacuum taps on their new shape bikes
The 250 clutch does start to wane a little beyond 3000km ish but ive seen people ride beyond that. The manual does say inspect the WHOLE clutch every 4k.
Tap the link below , which is a tutorial and read where it says SYMPTONS.
Hard neutrals is one of them listed there.Motul Ester or Silkolene ESTER (Note the ESTER), is the best oils for the hyosungs and they show it. Fancier brands out there exist but you may end up paying premium price for bottle that’s mixed the same way as cheap crude oil. However Motul and Silkolene are trusted brands.
Also consider the slack on the chain.
Another shout is to check your gear shift lever, if its wobbly or got too much play that will affect gear changes too.
[Tutorial] Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates Replacement How To
I haven’t got your email address
It’s okay, the site has a contact page for sales enquiries.
If no one else has sent you a PM,
Send me an email., I may try to get this new one off the trade for you.
Jan 2, 2021 at 5:48 PM in reply to: [How to Tutorial] How to Swap Upgrade Carb Main Jets Hyosung GT GT125R GV250 GV125 GT250R #5285Im having trouble removing the airbox from my GV125. All screws and clamps are removed or loosened. Can’t physically remove the airbox. The top frame tube is in the way and stopping me from getting it out. Is there a technique to it. Thanks Luke
Have you searched or browsed the forum. There was a discussion about this. If you cant see it, I will try to find it when i return back. it wont be easy but patience.
I can only say PLEASE do not stress the manifolds. They are very very hard to buy these days.
Send me an email, with pictures or attach on this forum reply box
- Your handle bar, and i want to see the steering mount bit where its cracked off.
I may be able to supply you just the SOLID BAR without mount, as you can unscrew your old broken bar out of the fork mount. Pics help first.
The bar sold is 100% identical to OEM one, my CNC guy just makes them on the spot. - I will try to locate an right OEM mirror but we have mirrors in stock that are aftermarket via the hyoriders shop
HyoSparesUK doesn’t deserve any mention on this forum, too many people have had problems with them and we don’t do business with copy sites (.uk, .eu, asia, .nz are all clones run by some 1 guy). I won’t digress, facebook has enough horror stories about them lol.
- Has it had valve clearances done? (can’t be avoided)
- what modifications does it have?
How about the other 2 points above ?
In regards to the carb, I don’t know if you can but can you take out spark plugs and upload on this site ? (Add media button on the reply box)
We can see if its running rich and which cylinder front vs rear.I rarely encourage messing with the air mix screws for many reasons unless a pro is good with the carb especially multi cylinder carbs , one engine can run a little richer than the other etc to aid in cooling as is the case with hyosungs and maintain some harmony
So, do you think its possible to disassemble the carb and then give it a clean (air compressor as OEM books say, and some liquid cleaner or some guy to do an ultrasonic clean job, probs £40 for the job if the carb isn’t so bad.
Least with an open carb its not just about cleaning clogged holes, how about slides being too scratched? torn? slide springs too tired? slide needle has been wrongly set in the LEAN setting ? (hence why I’d like to see your plugs)
Be ready to change plugs either case. to new ones.
Coils , Caps, Regulators are 3 common things that wane on hyosungs but lets do fueling out of the way , as it’s hard to attack many things at the same time. Dealing with each part / section of the bike will narrow issues down 1 by 1 . Any form of boggings , poor running is always either “valves too tight/too loose” , “fueling from the tank the carb inc pump” vs “sparking power” (plugs, coils, caps these 3 are married) – Regulator can just as easily slow things down a bit, again , electrics after the fueling is out of the way.
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