♠️ M77
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The 250 clutch does start to wane a little beyond 3000km ish but ive seen people ride beyond that. The manual does say inspect the WHOLE clutch every 4k.
Tap the link below , which is a tutorial and read where it says SYMPTONS.
Hard neutrals is one of them listed there.Motul Ester or Silkolene ESTER (Note the ESTER), is the best oils for the hyosungs and they show it. Fancier brands out there exist but you may end up paying premium price for bottle that’s mixed the same way as cheap crude oil. However Motul and Silkolene are trusted brands.
Also consider the slack on the chain.
Another shout is to check your gear shift lever, if its wobbly or got too much play that will affect gear changes too.
[Tutorial] Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates Replacement How To
I haven’t got your email address
It’s okay, the site has a contact page for sales enquiries.
If no one else has sent you a PM,
Send me an email., I may try to get this new one off the trade for you.
Im having trouble removing the airbox from my GV125. All screws and clamps are removed or loosened. Can’t physically remove the airbox. The top frame tube is in the way and stopping me from getting it out. Is there a technique to it. Thanks Luke
Have you searched or browsed the forum. There was a discussion about this. If you cant see it, I will try to find it when i return back. it wont be easy but patience.
I can only say PLEASE do not stress the manifolds. They are very very hard to buy these days.
Send me an email, with pictures or attach on this forum reply box
- Your handle bar, and i want to see the steering mount bit where its cracked off.
I may be able to supply you just the SOLID BAR without mount, as you can unscrew your old broken bar out of the fork mount. Pics help first.
The bar sold is 100% identical to OEM one, my CNC guy just makes them on the spot. - I will try to locate an right OEM mirror but we have mirrors in stock that are aftermarket via the hyoriders shop
HyoSparesUK doesn’t deserve any mention on this forum, too many people have had problems with them and we don’t do business with copy sites (.uk, .eu, asia, .nz are all clones run by some 1 guy). I won’t digress, facebook has enough horror stories about them lol.
- Has it had valve clearances done? (can’t be avoided)
- what modifications does it have?
How about the other 2 points above ?
In regards to the carb, I don’t know if you can but can you take out spark plugs and upload on this site ? (Add media button on the reply box)
We can see if its running rich and which cylinder front vs rear.I rarely encourage messing with the air mix screws for many reasons unless a pro is good with the carb especially multi cylinder carbs , one engine can run a little richer than the other etc to aid in cooling as is the case with hyosungs and maintain some harmony
So, do you think its possible to disassemble the carb and then give it a clean (air compressor as OEM books say, and some liquid cleaner or some guy to do an ultrasonic clean job, probs £40 for the job if the carb isn’t so bad.
Least with an open carb its not just about cleaning clogged holes, how about slides being too scratched? torn? slide springs too tired? slide needle has been wrongly set in the LEAN setting ? (hence why I’d like to see your plugs)
Be ready to change plugs either case. to new ones.
Coils , Caps, Regulators are 3 common things that wane on hyosungs but lets do fueling out of the way , as it’s hard to attack many things at the same time. Dealing with each part / section of the bike will narrow issues down 1 by 1 . Any form of boggings , poor running is always either “valves too tight/too loose” , “fueling from the tank the carb inc pump” vs “sparking power” (plugs, coils, caps these 3 are married) – Regulator can just as easily slow things down a bit, again , electrics after the fueling is out of the way.
Welcome to the site and happy holidays
It would be useful if we know these (makes troubleshooting whole lot easier) , if we skip these , i won’t know how to answer accurately. History helps.
- Total miles on dash?
- Has it had valve clearances done? (can’t be avoided)
- Has it had its carbs taken apart and blasted clean (via air compressor, fluids and even ultrasonic clean?)
- what modifications does it have?
BTW have you recieved my email? Its urgent.
In regards to your bike, how good is your battery? (Did it get garage tested. They have special meters). Id start here first.
After, have you taken the tank off. Used contact cleaner to clean ur plugs every where (gold pins can turn rusty from oxidization / winter road salt) its harder for electrics to pass AMP & VOLT juices thru the spine (harness loom)
Then check every indicator works.
Relay unit be the last item to investigate.
Something like that. But a wide box similar to OEM cause that in pic^ is too damn small. But you get the gist.
3rd hole is just to link tubing to the side from box(where oem filter is)
See that it has a hook hole?
A bolt goes through it. Then screws to metal hinge thingy thats on the GV frame (weld one on to it). Creativity ideas thats all.
I say big box cause volumetric pressure is needed. So size matters.
You can however…..
Make a metal box with 2 holes under it. Then rubber gromets for the carb to slide in to the box.
A full welded box but its narrower to clear the frame. Enclosed unit like the plastic oem box.
Extra hole at the front that allows a BIG flexi pipe to the front right mini oem air filter box.
There. We just remade the top air chamber out of metal ; a little narrower to clear the frame for ease of removal.
Then weld a little metal plate hinge kind of thing that allows it to be secured to frame bar so it doesnt rattle. The hinge moves out of the way (once unscrewed) for metal box to come out.
Takes brains and money to accomplish this!
I forgot the exact dimensions but you are right to say even a few mm off make a difference. I know that the Hyosung Carb is based off BDS26 BUT… it doesnt use mikuni part numbers , notice on your own parts list. The numbers are OEM based. So Mikuni makes certain parts spec’d to Hyosung while the empty skeleton body BDS26 is generic and used. Such as idle cables , metal hinges/guides, float bowls and that.
It looks like you are totally rebuilding the carb at this rate!
I do have loads of used parts for the carb in my trays taken off the hyosungs themselves.
No matter what Alan, I’ve tried everything, the box just wins.
The poster above you says he had to “un-cone” (basically go back to as stock as he can) then the bike responds better. Not the engine’s fault but the nature of the CV carb has made sure it wants a box not for air flow, also air pressure and other science. Pods just run too weird and it’s an abyss getting it right. If a 250cc uses the same carb and airbox, i doubt the 125 will exceed its capacity 😉
Following this closely.
Sorry that this wasn’t auto-approved a week ago, I am going to completely overhaul the site once again so it is less strict , trust me it is starting to annoy me now , but there is no excuse for a developer as myself to fix things , life got in the way!
Nice to see you Scott!
Around 1.5 to 2.5 turns on the GT250 but caution this because KR didnt reveal it and heavily discourages messing with the mixtures. And also caution that rear engine likes to run a little richer (a little). hence the 2.5 step staggered fashion of jetting KR did for the 125 and 250 models.
In your pic. Yes it is a breather / overflow to the ground incase bike tips over (falls) or floats act strange and overflowed the carb (in the sense of the word)
Hope that helps.
This happens, usually replacing the fuel gauge seems to fix it especially on dashboards that have white or orange display LCD. Also the dash reads the level sensor directly, so check the harness from the dashboard plug going to the tank level sensor plug.
Hi, sorry I didn’t reply so soon!
Did you get anywhere then?I assume you have had a digital meter on the coils , stator unit, plug caps? Other things that cut off sparks are “stand switch, clutch lever switch, cdi unit, neutral sensor” have you checked those too.
The mystery diodes & igniters embedded in the harness don’t usually just fail, if i am honest. I have worked and repaired few hyosung looms mostly for the lower capacity bikes , the igniters & diodes are always always working just fine, but there isn’t clear cut instructions from KR on how to test them anyway. If i’m honest always the sensors in the looms that i replaced with failure was the Neutral Switch mystery diode.
RELAY,TURN SIGNAL (GV250, GV125) - 3 PIN: H38610HR9770
That’s exactly what i got from the trader database. It is the same relay used on all GV250, Later GV125 (2009+) , GT125R , GT250R – All using the 3 wire plug. (3 wires!)
“Blinking Hazards” is controlled by the correct switch gear unit either 2010+ GV125 or GT125 RC bikes.
Old gens didn’t have this at all.
The relay is directly controlled by the switch gears (left side of bike for left or right)
And certain models of GV or GT on the “RIGHT SWITCH GEAR” to turn on blinking hazards or not.This also assumes all 4 bulbs on the bike, are Stock Korea ones. That’s all the relay responds to.
Which leaves investigating the bulbs , switch units gears, harness.
Your relay must be the same both new and old. They will either say KR Motors or Hyosung or Hankuk. (Hankuk makes the relays for Hyosung in Korea)
So i hope a mechanic has had a quick look for you ?
Hi,
Yes we do. Send us an email via the site contact page at the top or bottom site menus (if on the phone)
Hey when i replied to the email I recieved, did you try the points to check as i listed them ?
How did that go ?– M
- Your handle bar, and i want to see the steering mount bit where its cracked off.
