♠️ M77
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Send me an email because I may have one for sale that has been reserved for an ex-customer but he is no longer riding hyosungs now. I was due to list it up on ebay @evocrest
Believe me, i am thinking of doing rear master rebuild kits for the Hyoriders Shop anyway since I know its always nice to overhaul them every now and then. I will look in to it soon!
Hello,
All GT250 up to 2019 and all GT125 up to 2019 – share the same frame and same swingarmThe only change for frame so far is that the rear plastics for pillion use Mk1 subframe (for fatter old gens) and updated MK2 subframe for slim tail plastics for the new shape plastics.
Swingarms = the same.
I have had this before and I owned 3 EFI GV250 bikes.
What’s funny ? They were under 900 miles old, 1000 miles old, and i assume yours is a DAEWOO ECU since it’s still a 2010
DELPHI didn’t come out until around circa 2011/2012+
My fixes were
– 1st bike of mine Get New Stator (Can’t start without it!)(DAEWOO compatible) , not the chinese ones.
– My 2nd bike, I had to replace the fuel pump
– My 3rd bike was a little troublesome, it needed to stay with me for 2 weeks or so to do full diagnosis of every sensor that’s on the bike, then I had to buy the relative parts it wanted (sometimes the ECU didn’t always show the code), yes I even had to loan a rare DAEWOO ECU from someone from Scotland (he is in the forum)What I eventually did on the 4th GV250 which was a customer’s bike was eventually convert the EFI bike in to a carby version, it wasn’t cheap but was worth it. Many things changed ofcourse. But in the end carby is way less stressful. Then it was a lovely bike meant to be enjoyed without worrying about the next thing going on off.
If it bothers you too much , don’t loose your hair, I live near you, so you can always drop it off but not just yet as I still have 3 Hyosung bikes to finish off this May
Also don’t forget to check the “Service Manual” for the 250CC which is in the forum’s Technical Section , there will be pages of troubleshooting and how to test certain things with a meter (better to get hard figures than guesswork)Welcome to the site fella!
Enjoy the bike fella, they are nice looking bobbers to be fair , just what my own eyes conclude 😉
Do own the older classic GVs though.
Pre-Covid era , we did have 2 big meets per year and sometimes people make their own localized meets based on their regions. 2020 meets were cancelled. Since things in 2021 looking to be lifting up , I hope we can do a big meet again this year so that the north and south folk can meet us near midlands or derby since that’s central enough (It might be a repeat of the cancel “Ride #5” in the forum events section)
For now I am still a solo rider too haha ,but i do go out for a little ride whenever there is a chance to 😉
Hey,
You need to ring sinnis and quote this number for the lever “57621KG7200”
They are the exclusive OEM parts people for bikes still under the warranty , least on the UK soil.If i know a UK distributor that’s doing levers for the EFI GV125-S, I would definitely have added it to the website shop catalogue.
Hope you get back on the road asap! Summer is almost here lol.
Since I don’t own one myself (well yet), I haven’t seen anyone in UK do this personally but that sounds a lot like some custom mission to do if altering however the seat is from factory fitting.
Taking it off shouldn’t be hard though, at least on my older GVs they seats are locked by key.
Welcome to the site, sorry I didn’t respond sooner. If it is a new EFi (injected type) GV125 Aquila, you should have recieved the manual with it and the dealer supposed to have set the clocks to MPH before handing the keys over to you.
The exhaust headers use 1x security dot torx and 1 normal tall nut, these torx heads are some of the most annoying fasteners to use on a motorcycle header , but i suspect korea did this as some kind of anti tempering if the bike was still under some warranty
Welcome fella, nice bike. I do like the Yellow!
I responded to your other topic too.There is ways to repair the inlet rubber when people used things like tiger seals and what not , to be honest personally ill only have inlets to sell in about a month or more , due house move i am not working as full time as i would like until i settle in a new time and rebuild my workshop in a new area.
Though, I do have caliper bodies ready for dispatch on the @evocrest ebay channel
Also stainless steel piston kits ready to go in the hyoriders shop above ^ , as I usually keep emegency sets for urgent orders than waiting 2 weeks for my cnc guy to make some.
Also likely to have some used but good nick OEM pistons (x2) , sending me an email would be best or a PM on this forum for further info.
If your pistons aint rusted badly and pistons move freely, it could be the master cylinder itself and (50/50) chance brake fluid is old.
Should be around 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out front
Then the rear about 2 3/4 turns out. Be very wise. Very delicate screws. Clean the area hard 1st.
Float height 7mm. Not less. Not more
Jets Pilot – Size 15 each. Check again and confirm you can shine light through em.
Main jets 87.5 front and 90 rear or upgrade to 90 front and 92.5 rear
Slide needle should be middle groove or 3rd groove towards pointy tip
What i said and how to do so is at the above links of tutorials of jetting and slide adjustment.
Carb would still have to be the culprit is your compression is bang on.
Next time. Clean plugs. Go ride whatever highest speed safely then turn off plug.
Upload pictures of front and rear spark plugs so i can see how dark your threads are and how dark the middle of the plug tips are. Its time to get visual now
Best of luck!
The compression on both cylinder is 150 psi and stays at 150 psi
That is good. Engine seems OK.
You may want to drain the oil.
Put back the plug with the spring in the right order , spin the wheel until you can select first gear (center stand) or rise the rear. Leave engine off.
Pray no damage was done when engine was running cause the gearbox does have a cam shaft of its own.
Hope this can quickly fix it and let us know. Id hate to pull it apart too.
I use Motul products they are always ace for the job especially the Factory Line grade.
I had a water cooled 125 many years ago and this always served me.
Link to product
https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/motocool-factory-line
If you are absolutely sure every word i said is checked out cause it still sounds too much like the carb. I would try to check over what you havent checked.
If not , at least do a compression test and let us know what PSI is each engine head. Just to get the top end out of the way.
Hey.
You can use any GT EFi tank as they usually use the same pump fittings.
The only warning is that some EFI tanks use smaller Fuel Level Sensors. Its good to get a nice used tank that has a working pump and sensor as they can be expensive buying separately new.
Sorry for late reply.
Hi Marcel When I shift to 1st gear fairly loud clicking noise can be heard and generally shifting to other gears are stiff and a bit noisy compare to say Kawasaki Ninja. It has done 3000 miles. Idle speed yesterday droped to 15k it could be the weather.
Change the oil, and use Motul 7100 10w50 or 10w60 (NOT 10w40) , get what is in bold. It may help.
Oil change guide is here below:
[Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Filter on Hyosung GV + GT125/250 +R
Second, check your gear linkages arent loose from engine to the rearset hanger
Last, check the chain isn’t too slack. It will affect gear changes 100%
Let us know if this helped at all.
Hey,
It sounds like first off all the carb is heavily clogged up , you would be advised to get access to Air Compressor (as per OEM) and some liquid carb cleaner (don’t skip air compressor trust me)
– Clean the Main Jets, Pilots, Starting Enrichment Tube (the jet that doesnt come out in the carb)
– Clean the slides , check the rubber isn’t torn (put it up in the sky and see if light shines thru)(Can’t stress this object)
– Clean every hole thats inside the carb sekelon itself, those are air and fuel passages. Very tiny holes.Once you have finished cleaner, check the 2 tutorials below to confirm your “Slide Needle” is in the factory or rich position (NOT lean!) and also that your main jets are in correct size (stock or not) and PILOTS are marked “15” each. (Critical)
[Tutorial] How to swap Carb Main Jets – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Report back to the forum with your results after a quick test ride. Don’t forget to clean the plugs.
If we can address the monstrosity of a carb, then it will be easier to diagnose everything else in the bike if problems persist.
Last shout, when cleaning carb, be very religious about it! Best of luck!
1700 HOT is okay and very good.
Noises , you will have to elaborate more if you can ?
