♠️ M77
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This is the process of the bike to get sparks and start it.
Key On
Press Start Button
CDI checks rider has held in the clutch lever = Make sure switch is OK or replace it.
CDI checks the neutral light is on = Make sure rear wheel is actually freely moving, since fake neutrals are rare but do happen some odd cases.
CDI checks side side stand switch = bypass this unit, remember what was said in previous comments above from myself and Simon
Now the Solenoid (Starter Relay) clicks to initiate the power to the starter motor to spin it & crank engine.
A bad solenoid or a bad starter motor will make the sparks weak.
Why? They are straining the battery in excessAs the engine starts spinning (cranking)
The “STATOR UNIT” tell the cdi how many revs it’s doing
(Hint, the rpm gauge will be bouncing 600 rpm as bike turns over)Now the “STATOR UNIT” will also tell the cdi how much to spark
The CDI unit, then tells the coils to charge up & fire up 10,000 volts down the HT caps to fire the plugs
You will not see sparks or they will be very dull, if
– Coils are shot
– HT Caps are shot
– Battery is too old (volts dropping)
– Battery is too weak (AMPS aka Cold Cranking Amps isn’t sufficient to crank and power up the bike, electrics etc while engine is cold cranking)
– Plugs have given up (Replace them)Once the plugs are sparking , the engine comes to life thanks to the pistons drawing fuel out of the carbs and creating vacuum for the tank taps & fuel pump to keep the fuel supply going.
If the clutch lever switch acts weird while bike is running, then it will cut the sparks off almost instantly or when dropping to 1st gear.
If any parts above ^ that were involved in starting the bike act funny while its running, the cdi cuts its sparks off.
If compression is WEAK, it will be hard to start.
If valve clearances are “too tight” or “too lose”, it will be hard to start.But let’s cross this bridge if all electrics are sorted out first and its still not starting but i do pray the engine itself is OK.
Also, try this when it is safe to do so please.
Make the bike ready and connect everything and make sure battery is fully charged. Find a private road. Sit on the bike , and have someone push you till you get 10mph on the dash (jogging speed-ish) , then drop to 1st gear , have choke on. and be ready to twist the throttle to scream it to life.
If it starts by “pushing” the bike , then let us know. Don’t jump start a bike with jump leads with a live running van or car as they will 100% burn the electrics of the bikes.
HyosungSpares are known to cause issues for people, and sometimes clients have moaned their cause so much delays in parts and they have the cheek to ask for extra payments called delivery surcharge (after the sale is done) , odd if you ask me. Most FB groups for Hyosung UK Owners & this site do not recommend such sites, same goes with HyoCatalog, .eu, .au , same design, same guy. As various owners can attest to their woes.
Worry not though as i stock the pins at shop including the little grub nuts for it too, all in stainless flavour made on our own UK soil. Just click “Shop” at the top navigation menu or “== top left menu icon == ” if on the phone.
https://hyoriders.club/shop/I’ll give it a shot but lol but I think I read the wrong gauge for coolant the reserve coolant tank is empty any idea which coolant to get I went to halfords and they are useless they don’t know which coolant can be used with aluminium tank
I like Motul Factory Line Motorcycle Coolant, and it is usually already mixed at factory, so you pretty much have to just fill it via radiator (check level) or the reservoir unit.
The picture you uploaded, is that the rear or front cylinder head ? Have a feeling picture is upside down so i am not able to tell. And is the smoke coming through the exhaust header (where pipe joins to the engine block) ?
or is there a leak somewhere externally (have a short ride down the street, then let it idle, look for something wet that may drip on to the hot exhaust pipe causing the puff of smoke. Just be cautious and no need to open anything until the engine is 100% cold, as coolant can easily burst out burning if you open either radiator or reserve caps
Go with what simon says ,
Side stand switch = follow its wires and cut them. Ditch the switch. Join wires at the loom side. Please protect that area by waterproofing with good tape! I mean be ocd about this.Clutch handle bar = follow its wires , the switch will say 0 ohm on the meter when you squeeze on and off on the lever, that means it’s dead. But luckily , i sell the clutch switches, should you need one!
Your fuel tap was posted today , so you should have it soon, we are in yorkshire too just as you are 🙂
When cranking the bike, the plugs will be sparking bright. This means its ready to fire. Dull yellow usually means bad coil, stator (it is also part of sparking due to its pickup sensor inside it), bad HT cap, or plug has broken down.
is it possible to get a picture with your hand pointing to the area where the smoke is coming from exactly please?
It could help narrow down what the issue either internally or externally, could be something as simple as a hose leaking a little through its clamps or something odd but i do hope its nothing to do with the cylinder heads as coolant ofcourse flows around it.White smoke usually means coolant either out of the tail pipe or near the engine, blue-ish smoke is piston rings, so have a good inspection of that too.
Very pretty. Right colour. Love the twin pipes (much better than the single monstrosity cannon on later gvs recently, yuck…, had to to get rid of mine)
Shame about the windscreen, hope you have managed to fix it though, as the rest of the bike from the picture looks like its tour ready even a nice back rest for the pillion 😉
Hi again – thanks for your suggestions. I just thought I’d do everything suggested – sprayed contacts with cleaner & then WD40, disconnected sidestand switch and hey presto! It lives! Thanks again people. ATB – Andy
You are welcome sir , thanks for updating us all , have a safe ride 🙂
Thanks for sharing the pics, just seen them now. Will feature bike in shop galleries 🙂
Hope you get your cush rubbers soon! Drop a review here if you like the chain set!
Uprated Japanese 520 Chain & Sprocket Kit :: Hyosung GT125R GT250R GT125 GT250
Hey Max,
Send me an email if you need Pilot Jets (Size 15 is oem for all 125 twins, but sometimes you will find 17.5 added by other owners and makes bike hard to start)
I will not ship your parts until you let me know first please.
I also have some “main jets” too.For GV125 only this is the optimal settings:
Size 15 Pilot Jets = 2.5 turns out mixtures , both front and rear.
Size 90 & 92.5 is the max jetting and recommended.
Slide Needles = Factory is 3 grooves. 3rd groove towards pointy tip is good.
If you have 5 grooves = 3 to 5 groove towards the pointy tip is good, but check spark plugs and fine tune it. Maybe they like 3 or 4, because 5 is very rich.Size 87.5 & 90 is OK too as long as bike uses standard factory exhaust and do no modify air filters (GV’s don’t like pod filters ever.)
Do not worry too much about air because GV250 also uses the same air filter and air box, it will flow enough air for 250 & 125cc. Just make sure filter is new because they get clogged faster than GT125s (GTs use 650cc air filter and are able to filter air for much longer before bike starts to feel like its on a leash & slower/sluggish). Around every 5K is a good time to check GV air filters to keep air flow optimal.
All GT125 have 87.5 and 90 because i work with a lot of hyosung bikes now ,everytime i do some upgrades ,i always find 87.5 front and 90 rear. 82.5 on a GV is too small but it is probably to slow it down (restriction?) but most motorcycle makers these days used to put smaller main jets to try meet EURO laws but there is a problem, they will be leaner in top gear (and thus bike gets much hotter), so its not good for piston rings in the long term.
I hope i have made sense , good spark plugs will help burn that extra fuel , but we will deal with electrics another time 😉 , lets fix the carb first.
Just to add also,
How to remove airbox from GV125 an easier way….
- Loosen bolts for rear intake pipe.
- loosen clamps for intake pipe front and rear.
- Now, remove rear intake pipe”very gentle” and slowly from the bike.
- Measure bolts for intake pipe (eg. M6 x 20 for example, and get stainess steel please)
- Now loosen and slowly remove front intake pipe from under the carb (slide them out nicely)
Step 2….
Loosen airbox bolt from the FRAME (1x bolt holds airbox to frame.)Voila, the carb and air box have come out easy.
To fit everything back , do the steps above ^ in reverse.
This method protects manifolds and puts them away safely and you can take the airbox with carb together away from bike too next.
Caution = If you remove intake pipe , please change “manifold ORING” everytime, as old ones get flat or old after a while and air leaks will happen.
Caution = Get big masking tape, and hide engine holes , you don’t want to accidently drop bolts or metal parts inside engine holes and valves will seize when you start. Make sure engine surface is very smooth and clean before fitting manifolds again.
Everything else, follow Alan above ^ , i agree with what he has said so far 👍
This link is the slide mod is below[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
You got this , we’re here for you.
Have a nice full ride with it once its running well and all that just to give it a stretch from being stood for so long.Just like with any bike (regardless of brand) have your eyes pop out and look everywhere for anything suspicious (incase of a dishonest seller) also test the main things like brakes , check chain slacks , feel the wheel for any weird behavior, steering behavior , lights, electrics, horn , battery ,etc, etc, imagine as if you are doing a full inspection.
The seller may think you’re being overzealous, if he wants your cash , he will allow the investigation on your part before parting ways with your hard earned cash.
Hopefully its just an older fella, who has dry stored it in garage with no fuel (wise), so nothing is gummed up from rotting fuel
Remember, use e5 fuel only. They prefer it (understandably so)
Ride steady!
Hey look at this topic and the PDF was written by someone else to try kill off the popping sounds the bike makes after the ends change in 650cc
Welcome to the site, ask away as much as you want , we’re around to help you stay on the road , you will love the hyosung. It will love you even more if you also give it some nice TLC all over it. We can’t trust previous keepers to be entirely honest even a garage may not have done a full once over as they claim before selling the bikes even.
I think you have discovered they do have a character don’t they, if they are happy or a little mood they show it 100% . I can surely attest to this having owned various Hyosungs which i still do.
Stay away from sites like HyoSpares, WholeSale, EU, Catalogue = They have the same design and run by the same guy who has conned 75% of his people and makes sure a few people actually get their parts (even if it takes months), no one in UK likes them. Hell I don’t even do business with such sites , i deal with real traders on our soil or the germans typically. I will update the site to have more things for the 650 but if you don’t see anything, ill usually get it for you!
Then there is 2 more personal recommendations who are RacingPlanet UK (you can actually ring them, if they still have their numbers) and Startright Motorcycles Leeds (the oldest hyo dealer), i personally buy half my stock from them anyways since they are already in yorkshire as i am. Handy when i need something so i can fix customer bikes quick than waiting for other traders to send me goods.I am digressing, hey bank holiday is here, have a nice little spin with her!
Asian chrome at its finest! – Hey , you can always take the metal parts of and let local chrome plater rejuvinate them. Stator & Clutch casings are common to see chrome bits start to flake off after years of use and UK weather getting to them.
Or can always go all stealth black everything 😉 , something Korea is doing to their newer EFI GV300 models to their engines with some bits of GREY rather than real chrome.
I’ll admit i do like chrome on the GVs , suits them (could just be my weird tastes!)
Welcome to the club sir!
Post your ride here below:
As per simon too.
Unhook the tank and check the right hand switch unit is fully plugged in or check the connectors did not get dirty (get halfords contact cleaner for that)
Also open the right hand switch unit, look at the contacts for the “start” button and the red “Kill Switch” button incase water somehow got to them
While the tank is still exposed, check there isn’t a “Side Stand Switch” (not all older GVs have it). If you see a switch under the kick stand, cut it and throw it away.
Join the wires (going to the bike harness) , waterproof them hard with tape as rains will TRY to get to the wires.
Check also the “clutch handle bar” , there is a switch behind it and follow its wires, you will see it connected to the bike harness somewhere near the airbox or inside the headlight cluster. Don’t bypass it.
Get a meter, set it to ohms , squeeze the handle bar in and out, to see if the switch works. The meter says zero if the switch is dead. Replace the switch.
Usually the CDI (depends if its got 3 plugs or 2 plugs) will check that the rider has squeezed in the clutch before starting (it is a good safety feature, in VERY rare cases, i mean rare, the gearbox spins even if bike is in NEUTRAL, when you let go of the clutch, the bike jolts forward and cuts out, or forbid it jolts and falls down). You can always be sure its real neutral by pushing bike back and forth or just spin the back wheel if it has a center stand.
There is some units to sell here, not easy to find but exist…but even with scanner, therenis some question still missing answer
When you use the diagnostic tool to check the bike and do your own changes to the TPS, is it not responding better now ? Or do you suspect the TPS unit is suspicious (eg. a replacement is imminent ?)
Good to see you’re keeping well 🙂
Any seaside trip plans ? now that the weather is warming up ? I suppose some hard bags is all you need for a little picnic getaway trip
My GT will be soon going on a hiatus and i’ll be taking out the GV as i may carry a passenger with me , at the moment , i have been heavily inspired by the GV300SA that hyosung is bringing out soon.
I’m a carb guy so i like the older GVs engines wise , doesn’t matter what CC it is, however i do want to steal the looks of the GV300SA. What do you think 😉
That’s great man, having a scanner will save you a lot of trouble! – Especially with EFi bikes.
I hope that tool did not damage your bank balance as they are not cheap or easy to acquire now 😉
I got your email, it has been responded 🙂
Also have a quick ring to Startrights Leeds motorcycles , they are an old dealer for hyosungs & daelim, they do have an old new stock headlight or one that’s used i believe. Just tell them Marcel sent you, to get ahead of call queues , they can be busy!
Any chance you have Instagram (public) or YouTube (set upload to “unlisted”) , record what your bike is doing , make sure microphone is close to the source of the sound even have someone record it while you do it.
upload the video to either platforms above and share us the link here , i should get better understanding without making any wrong assumptions to a part incase its something else instead. I hope it’s nothing major though
