♠️ M77
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80 kmh
That is like the imfamous “can’t get past 60 mph” issue here in UK too.
I would check the following or replace;
- Ignition coil , sometimes sparks will come out of the wires (coil arcing) , or HT cap is faulty
These 2 parts are common failing OEM parts. - Spark Plugs are breaking down. (Dying)
- The Carb Slides are sticky (dirt again)
- Regulator faulty under heavy load (common), oem regulators are not great.
- Main Jets may be clogged again
(sometimes we clean carbs 2x before we are fully satisfied, so be ready to clean carb 2-3x time before engine is happy with result) - check intake pipes are not leaking air (spray carb cleaner near them)
- spray air boxes top of carb and air filter box (2 boxes, for any leaks near the joints)
It is specific.
If its GTR , use GT125R levers.GV125 levers have more curves , so may feel weird (even though will “just about” fit) . RX125 will fit.
TNorthEast, Startrights Leeds are best 2 sources for levers and real hyo Uk dealers (oldest ones even) , until i eventually stock the parts at this shop (still expanding it) , failing all that, i’ll get it for you in the trade from Doncaster.
650 brake levers won’t fit as too thick to slot inside the mounts of the 125cc brake holders.
So the starter guy couldn’t rebuild it. He can get me a brand new starter for a hyosung V2C 650S . It looks the same but he’s not sure if that is the same part as the one I need for my GV65O Aquila. Do you know if it is the same? Thanks again.
V2C 650 and GV650 are the same bike. One says Hyosung , the other uses United Motors (usa) branding (like Malaysia uses NAZA branding) but its all still Hyosung Korea.
Post the part numbers or pictures of the item if in any doubt 🙂
Hey,
Sorry about the post not appearing, i had to manually approve it (it wasn’t even spam!). I’ve now seen the reply and will like to congratulate you on the eventual house move , hope you have settled in now despite the weather being a YoYo, typical britain, so i share your frustrations.On to bikes now, it is rare for a GV display to fail reading the MPH counters. The manual dials on the left and also the central fuel gauge the digital version can both read and collect mileage. I would have only just replace the wheel sensor that’s on the fork , a new one ideally as used ones are hit and miss unless seller guarantees it works.
I am glad you managed to fix it. Please don’t bin the old cluster away , if it is no use to you, just send us a DM and i may consider purchasing it from you if we ever do another GV project restoration. Or keep in your shed for future backup, though it rarely fails.
The MOT guy may not bat an eye lid but well done for recording old and new mileage , even for your future records 👍
I hope i made sense and I have understood your replies properly , correct me if im wrong about anything you said.
Also take pics and upload here, so we can see everywhere looks good. (Engine clutch arm, cable, the levers , how you have routed them etc) It helps a lot to see what the situation is like.
Is the cable OEM or where did you get it from ?
The cable from the lever , goes under the key barrel, then it goes on the VIN section under steering, then slide it down thru a /_\ triangle section of the frame on the right side , just as the same way the throttle cable is going down to the carbs.
Make sure the “ARM” behind the engine is against the sprocket cover (this is Korea’s way) and it makes sure the clutch is fully neutral.
Then finish adjusting it near the handlebar lever to have max 4mm freeplay before it starts pulling clutch.
Please use OEM lever and OEM clutch mount. Every last chinese lever thats universal will guarantee the cable snaps. I don’t like them and another reason i don’t stock such parts.
Now i will get to follow this topic, great write ups!
Sourcing parts can be a head scratcher sometimes but glad you was able to do things locally first, so you’re on the road much sooner. Speaking of, hopefully the spark issue may be a minor thing but i trust that you are doing some electrical checks all over the bike to make sure nothing has gone amiss
That little arcon nut for the carb, trust me when i say i get more orders for that little nut than any other carb part for the bike. They are so fragile indeed.
Hell, i love how you neatly laid out all the parts for the build, i hope it wasn’t for a photo op 😉 , that’s very organized, some days my work shop is like that but when its super busy , things can be looking a little chaotic!
I remember many years ago when i first got in to Hyosungs , while i was busy scouring the earth for parts, i did come across an NZ FB page that did have the Carl Cox cup pics shared and some girl called Avalon seemed most prominent on a GD Hyosung, so that spiked my interest in GD bikes , however the UK rarely gets imports for the GD450 even! – So i ever only rode with 1 guy on GD250, what a quick light bike that was! – I still like the GT bikes for their chunkiness, i can’t help it! – So its nice know the Hyosung race scene is still going strong in your country, maybe Carl should make a UK one happen haha. I will be there all the time!
I am digressing , i’ll end to say i do like the grey bike due to its tail & solo seat style. I just need to add red lights and indicators , registration plate to make it street legal and i will be set!
Best of luck fixing the electrics!
Hi Marcel got the bike reving again ok ot was the pilot jet blocked I did what you said also seen my fuel filter was really old and not it good shape so have ordered a new one of yourself with exhaust nuts thanks again for your help loving the site very useful and informative
Bare with me please for extra 2 days , i must go and get extra nuts before packaging and will send the package to you soon. When you get an email that says “dispatched” , it means i’ve sent it to the postoffice , as i usually do with ebay orders you made with us too. Hold tight before taking exhausts off 🙂
Did you send me a message on ebay ? (@Evocrest is us) – I’ve only just logged in to see this
Thanks will strip it down and give it a good clean
Keep us posted, ultrasonic cleaning (not rattle cans) , really pays off and please only use e5 fuel where possible because e10 just isn’t great. And fancy 2022 cars don’t drive that much better on e10 either, where e5 gives them better mileage & e5 on bikes doesnt go off as quick as e10 does if bike has been stood before you bought. But as simon says , long standing isnt good for carbed bikes anyway.
if you have fuel lines older than 4yrs (oem) , as per service manual please replace them and get fresh fuel filter, the bike will thank you for that.
Carb Jetting is below (to help the main jets pick up better when riding, and slightly rich jets is better for a hot engine so it doesnt lean out full throttle, especially with 125 bikes commonly having aftermarket cans fitted (more air out or in = more fuel in) (electrics beefed up only help burn the fuel better , eg throttle response is a bit more snappier that’s all but pays off)
See the 2 links here.
[Tutorial] How to swap Carb Main Jets – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Oh wow, do post us some pics or a jornual topic that we can follow on the racing section of this forum.
That’s great to know races still happen with hyosung 250s , these pocket rockets , the 650s usually a common choice for a track bike but don’t hear about 250s much these days.
And ofcourse ,post away any woes you may have so we help you restore it.
Welcome to the club 🏍🏁
The 650 one will fit because they use the same GREY yokes.
Funny thing is i am due to start getting my guy who does prints to make us some custom decals to put on the shop, so keep an eye!
Will even try to bring back the famous union jack flag also & some kind of carbon effect, but ideas are always welcome 😉
The entire engine uses 1.5L of oil, see tutorial below on oil change guide https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/change-oil-filter-hyosung-twins/
The good oil for summer is below (& HIGHLY recommended) and the service manual itself says use “premium” grade oil (not the cheapo) to extend engine life.
- Motul 71oo = 10w40 or 10w50
- Motul 300v = 10w40 or 10w50
- Silkolene Pro 4 = 10w40 or 10w50
- Silkolene Comp 4 = 10w40 or 10w50
These are also ESTER grade oils. I personally never use anything else on mine except these 2 brands and when i fix customer bikes, its what i use also.
If you have no local breaker near you that does Hyosungs , then you can always send an email , but below is 100000000% recommended and the bike will thank you.
- 250cc EFI Black Oil Cooler (forget grey ones) and becareful on ebay some sellers are dishonest and 50/50 chance half the coolers sold there come from bikes that blew their cranks and metal debris may still be floating inside the cooler, restricting flow or will be picked up by the drain plug magnets.
- Uprate your bike to have better jets (see tutorial here https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/tutorial-hyosung-gv-gt-125-250-how-to-swap-carburetor-main-jets/)
- Improve your slide piston to be slightly more enriched (see tutorial here https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/tutorial-carb-slide-needle-tuning-hyosung/)
- Go to our shop above ^ or ==menu== if on mobile phone, and get yourself stainless steel bolts and “possibly” fresh carb gasket kit if its an old carb that hasnt been touched for years, to avoid leaks, fuel zone is a critical area we don’t want to mess with it.
- If you can’t source main jets, send us an email , we usually keep stacks of them as we include them as part of K&N kits for the shop anyways.
I moved your topic to the technical section and edited the title for you.
Hope this info helps!
Actually I took the starter in to a specialist and he opened it up and said the inside was fried. He is looking for parts to rebuild it.
Tricky things to rebuild them starter motors but hope he scores the parts. You, yourself should have a phone handy and talk to WhyGoStock, they are a real Hyosung USA dealer and will most likely have the part you need. They are much closer, and will be quicker than us trying to send parts to you, just consider us as last resort.
I think your mechanic has got this i hope, keep us updated!
I just removed a striped safety torque bolt from my 2009 gt125r exhaust front downpipe as my new blackwidow exhaust came today were can I get a replacement bolt for the damaged one I removed thanks.
I hope not, if anyone owns a 125cc will tell you dealing with Torx bolts is their worst enemy and they tend to replace the entire engine bolt set.
Look at this , you will do a whole lot better hereHeader Pipe Copper Exhaust Gasket & Full Stainless Stud Nut Kit :: Hyosung [Various Models]
Remember if its a “Hyosung” the consensus is to try to make every small screw stainless against the harsh weather elements & less fighting when its maintenance time.
If its just 1 bolt you need, do you have a local car shop? Just walk in with the damage torx bit and ask for this exactly below
“Hi, this bolt is for my exhaust but its damaged, can i have a stainless steel replacement ? The bolt must he a “HEX” head please. NO ALLEN KEY.”
Or “This above ^ happened, and i need a “stud that is 40mm long” and an “OPEN STAINLESS NUT” (This will be tricky for them to do!)
but you get the gist sir 🙂
Thank you so much for the detailed reply. I will try but it may take a while.
It’s okay , the art is not to rush. You will surprise yourself too. If in doubt record yourself or take pics so you always know where things connected back.
We’ll be here if you need help.
Hey welcome.
Do you think you have either instgram , youtube, or vimeo or any other public site that lets you upload a video and copy it.
Come back to the forum and just share the link to it.
This way we can see & hear what’s happening to the bike.We may go back & forth to get you the right answer , so i will start with the basics….
- What year is the bike?
- Do you use e5 or e10 fuel (or what does the pump say on your petrol station forecourts) ?
(Here in UK we discourage the use e10 even if the bike is rated for it, due to the fact bike simply runs better on e5 premium fuel & less maintenance of the fuel system to worry about later) - Do you or have you used any products such as “WYNNS GOLD PETROL SYSTEM” cleaner, which you fill up in the tank (all of the bottle) and mix with half tank of normal fuel. This will “try” to soft clean your injectors, pump, etc
- Do you get any Fi warning lights on the dash ? (or maybe we will see it from a video?)
- Has the bike been modified in anyway ?
- Lastly, if you have the physical service manual with you, can you go to a page that talks about getting error codes to display
Usually error codes displayed on the dash (when you follow the manual) , can sometimes tell you exactly which part is acting funny to need attention or a replacement.
Drain some oil. Unscrew the bolts that hold the magneto casing on the left.
I have a sneaky suspicious that the starter motor is spinning but you may have lost a tooth from from one of the crank sprockets that spin the flywheel or sprag clutch issue behind the flywheel, but you need to have a look.
If in doubt, have you browse the service manual section on this forum and download the 650 manuals to familarize yourself with the bike’s internals and such.
Taking off the casing shouldn’t be too hard at all, you’re just looking that’s all. Also take pictures of whats behind the flywheel if you can and we may advise if it looks okay or not.
Or it is possible the starter motor itself is worn out. (but you have already replaced this unit ?) so i will look to see if the starter Relay Solenoid is the one that’s causing this behavior.
I do hope the engine is okay, just take care when taking the casing off and putting it back as it has a very thin and sensitive gasket to rips.
I will try to ask around , as i don’t even have a supply chain in canada for parts myself , otherwise i would know more about that country specifically.
Maybe you know what’s wrong with the bike and see if we can help you on the forum a little ?
it may be a shot in the dark, what if you remove the exhaust pipes and replace the exhaust gaskets inside the cylinder head and tighten exhaust bolts to 15 ft lbs max , then see if the smoke stops coming out of the cylinder head.
Then we check again that the smoke is likely a drip from the coolant bottle somewhere, cause we can’t have smoke straight out of the exhaust hole , the exhaust valves would be directly behind that. Then i’d hate to assume we have head gasket failure in the piston chamber where coolant has leaked through internally.
Please also look inside your radiator for anything that looks like “brown milk” etc or strange debris floating.
- Ignition coil , sometimes sparks will come out of the wires (coil arcing) , or HT cap is faulty
