♠️ M77
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– Neutral Sensor (is it on?) , has it shown signs of abuse near the sprocket ?
– Clutch Lever Handlebar switch (no need to bypass but check circuit isn’t broken with a meter ?)
– Stator Pickup Sensor ? = Check it isn’t gummed up with dirt or fishy (plug is Blue & Green , white shell)
Check omhs under 200 , and report back?
– Engine Black Box all fully connected ?
I say black box as i am unsure it is EFi (ECU) or CDI Unit (Carby) – So will generalize them as the “black boxes”.– Is the sidestand switch bypassed (recommended)
Also, do this safely! – Have a friend push you down a private road and drop to 1nd gear and see if the bike starts from the crank ?
We’re doing a process of elemination now. The fact the button says “click click” , means the circuit from the start button going to the solenoid isn’t broken (ie. wires okay)
I do hope in the end of all this its just solenoid or the 1st three electric parts above cutting sparks off.
Update us all and i will keep an eye on this topic.
Hello,
You have the situation called the infamous high speed fuel starvation, this is how it happens:
– Carb bowls are full
– Bike is running normally (under 20-30mph)
– The road opens up to split lanes (dualways etc, 70mph section)
– The revs rise as the carb slides rise up
– It starts to drink the fuel inside the float bowls faster than the fuel pump and tap can keep up.
– Once bike feels like its running out of puff, it coasts to a dead stop
– The engine is hot and fumming (no pun intended!)
– It waits for the carb bowls to fill again whilst cranking and cranking to start it.Fortunately there is a remedy for this, so try these and every last thing you tick off below the bike will be grateful.
– Replace the lines (OEM Carb lines rot) and a monster filter is big enough to fill the carb bowls fast, or acts as little reserve for 1 mile to petrol station if you ride slowly and steady to maintain high MPG
See this (link here) and (this tutorial here)
– Better lines can hold more air in for the vacuum system to hold open the tap and pump under high revs and don’t swell near the hot rear engine.
So see this (link here) and the tutorial here
– Get “JIS” screwdriver (it is a must) before even thinking about stripping the carbs to upgrade their jets or just to check the previous owner hasn’t messed around.
Then see ( this link here )
– Do a “SLIDE MOD” while still at the carbs, look here -> (this link) , this will enrich the mid-range a little bit (around the 4-7k mark), so the bike is less flat.
– Get carb cleaner at halfords = Buy 4x cans (Yes you must go through 4 cans it is a must) then do the following- Blow the jets clean
- Blow every hole inside the carb clean (every last of it)
- Clean the exterior hard
- Get a fat stubby screwdriver (JIS type!) and then remove the fuel pump, do not open it, as there is no need. Blow carb cleaner inside the “GOLD PORTS” only! (DO NOT SPRAY the silver port of the fuel pump)
Consider replace the fuel tap from the tank (it is too common to digress as Korea taps haven’t been great on the hyosung 125cc motors) , plus you probably want something that flows a little better (like this one)
Last not least, always (i mean always use “E5” fuel)
Let us know how you get on. I hope i wrote everything correct 🙂
Only if you do every last word above ^ with the fuel system and bike still persists , then we will discuss the air system and electric system but i hope it doesn’t come to that , as we still have some few warm days left of summer to enjoy
Regards
You mean if you press “start” it just makes faint or loud clicks ?
Also does the dashboard dim dark or act funny like its disco lights all over the places ? (all this while pressing start)
Hey, I think it is off my head
- M22 x 30 x P1.0 x H12 Suzuki GP Pro (query this on amazon and see?)
(I hope im right!)
The nut OEM is a 30mm socket size , i don’t expect aftermarket ones to stray too far from that but beware of cheap metal copies , least heaven forbid you strip threads of the yoke tubeand have to replace the whole thing. It is very annoying when the bike goes over little humps and the whole front end judders if the nut is not torque to the right specs (if it says example “40 ft lbs” , then 40 it is, not more , not less. the new nut should handle that too.)
It is for that reason, i don’t use yoke extensions for GPS, i use these instead
- Oxford Strap Nav
- Buffalo Nav Bag
Use E5 only
Go to the battery and test these;- What volts is the battery at idle (DC)
- What volts is the battery at 5k revs (DC)
Switch the multi meter to 200 to 500v AC next, while the bike is still running, go and find the location of the stator on left side of the engine.
Follow its wire. Disconnect the yellow plug (3 pin yellow plug), now do the following and report back
- Probe the meter and put both “red” and ” black” probes of the meter inside the 3 pin plug in this sequence.
- Pin 1 & Pin 2 = Volts at 5k revs?
- Pin 1 & Pin 3 = Volts at 5K revs?
- Pin3 and Pin 1 = Volts at 5K revs?
It is a three phase stator, so we check all three lines.
There is no need to ground the frame or anything like that, we’re just seeing how much volt the stator gives in AC when disconnected (just the yellow plug!)
GV650, GT650, ST7 = Main major electric faults is usually the bad regulators korea ships with the bikes because Hyosung doesn’t make them, but asks another company in Korea to make stators and regulators.
Stators usually survive okay, but please check the wires are not burning hot or cooking up either, usually happens towards the regulator.
I do not mean to scare you off or anything as i’d want you to just go ride the bike but i’ve had instances where i’ve had to send both a new reg and new stator to folks in Scotland (it’s colder up there though???, i digress!)
Also check service history to see if anything about the injectors have been cleaned etc OR go to Halfords or EuroCarParts and only get this item below:
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/fuel-and-oil-additives/wynns-formula-gold-petrol-treatment-500ml-166754.htmlI do not recommend Redex, it isn’t great, despite its raves about it. Its effective on cars mainly.
If you have time and patience, you may strip the tank and (gently!) , remove the fuel pump and make sure its mesh filter isn’t overly clogged from years of debris or past keepers using junk supermarket fuel. We do not need to replace the pump if it is still working but less clogged mesh is good to improve its fuel flow.
A new pump is quite costly , we have to avoid replacing it. It will last as long as its taken care of 🙂
I hope i have made sense in this reply
Now those risers i want them 😉 , who stocks them ? I could buy a lot of sets for us UK folk here, (thinking about it)
Did the cables stretch by any chance ? Sometimes new cables are needed if the height or distance to reach the controls is extended , ie (clutch line, brake lines, etc) and check switch gears are not being pulled when turning the bike left full lock and right full lock, just a shout!
Hello,
~Motul 7100 10w40 (or 10w50) = Use this forever.
If out of stock (rarely) , then use these also;
– Silkolene Comp 4 10w40 or 10w50
– Silkolene Pro 4 10w40I said 10w50 is good in summer, and i use 10w40 during the colder days, although the 125cc benefits on a 250cc cooler much more. Just an idea!
Castrol is like water, no matter how flashy the box is. Motul 5000 is more basic , the service manual of the 125 Hyosung says use premium grade oil if you can to extend its life. It has a harder life than a 250cc / 650cc does but though it is a very good machine when it is very well looked after.
Look at this link below:
[Tutorial] Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates Replacement How To
You may be needing a new clutch. Least if a garage was to be sure the clutch is okay, they “must” get a venier caliper and macro gauge and measure thickness of the plates , and springs and confirm on paper. Let us know, then ill confirm if the plates and springs are in spec. Though a new clutch does go a long way during servicing. That’s why in service manual it mentions to “check/measure” or replace the clutch around 4k mark.
Also the 125cc clutch basket can have slight indents in the outter edges which slightly stops plates moving efficiently, these can be filled off gently , unless worn down then replace the OUTER basket. I will do a tutorial about it when i get round to it.
Oh, replace the filter too, always, see this link here:
[Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Filter on Hyosung GV + GT125/250 +R
Hope i made sense 🙂
if its efi then they need to be from the efi variants.
You are correct, he would not be able to fit EFI rear panels on to an old gen bike due to subframe changes (whatever CC it is)
However if it a GTR, he can use either front EFI nose cage, headlight, efi face, to transport on to the old gen front end = this is the only way to use EFI plastics on the old gen, is the face area of the bike.
Lower panels that hide the engine haven’t changed – he can get whatever year until 2019
What a stunning set of pictures, motivates me now to even go on holiday soon!
Lack of snappy throttle can just mean the carb needs a nice ultrasonic clean once in a while, it really pays off and at least you can find out if the previous did anything suspicious like putting the wrong jets inside which makes a bike a little too rich when its hot. Fortunately, this site has various carb tutorials for carb tune ups. But before you or anyone attempts to open the carbs, please get fresh screws from the shop and discard the old ones. Never reuse old carb screws.
Also as it s JAPAN carb, use a Jap screwdriver called “JIS” screwdriver, cause UK drivers will instantly round off the heads. Incase you or your mechanic not aware.Plugs, are always an easy replacement, stock ones work okay, but age or mileage (whichever is first) will make them wane, new ones go a long way.
If you look under the bike and you have silver colored pipes, then you have stainless pipes from Black Widow UK , or Scorpion , or MTC (rare) or MotoUnion (too rare, out of business) or even TK ones , they will discolour a bit with heat. It is normal.
Hope you enjoying the bike, post the in Tech section if anything comes up.
If not, share a picture of her here;
I’ve run into another problem with the right fork, the rebound damper adjuster ain’t working, it just rotates all the way round but the left side works ok Can they be repaired or is it a new right fork ???
Sounds like you have to split the fork again to see what’s hopefully not broken inside though , otherwise if all fails , it should be OK to get another fork leg that looks “identical” to yours. Ignore 125cc and 250cc forks because they have different internals, the 650 is much heavier , and has adjustable tops.
In your ebay App on the phone type this
- seller:evocrest fairing
Then you will see all the possible left over fairings i have in stock.
If you have an old design 125R , then you need old design 250R or 650R panels and even 125R old design.
Depends what year the 650 is and what year your bike is 🙂
Then i’ll add some comments to your question.
I mean if the C-Ring sits in a groove by its own, and its a hard metal to press on , probably a good thing it does that since the 650 has a fair amount of weight sprung to its suspension.
You want a mole grip or some kind of vice to force the C-ring in to the slot.I am making an educated guess i have no idea how the rest of the fork rebuild went for you, so i am assuming it’s just that bit.
Hello, just let you know i recieved your email before i saw this topic , so i am responding to it, if you don’t see it in 1hr , check Junk Folder of the mail box 🙂
Hey, at the top of the site navigation, either on the left (mobile phone) there is burger menu of this shape “=” and press it, there is a “live search” box that brings out the results globally , it pulls product first but forum topics are included , and click/tap “view all results” under the live search, to see posts relating to the keywords you entered 🙂
if on the desktop (wide screen device, ie. tablet/pc) , the searchbox is on the left side top background image
Though i’m the sole developer of the site, so any bugs you see i will fix them by hand , sorry for any errors though i do my best to make sure site functions as it should any time of day. The black design is recent, so i’m still optimizing it 😉
Let me know if you managed to search OK?
Get a big big mole grip and get the ring positioned, then use the vice grip to squeeze force the ring to get in the slot.
Thanks for the info, carb was removed cleaned, reassembled, and placed back on the bike,one of the hex head screws on the rubber boot was easily stripped out, it took some time getting the screw out but after about 1 hour I got it off. Removing the intake rubber boots made it much easier, by fitting the carb to the air box first then sliding the boots under the carb made it work much better.
Glad to hear it’s all worked out now 😉
Ride steady sir!PS. If you’re ever out in the sun, post a pic of here on below 😉
