LaserBeam
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Thanks Marcel. I didn’t think any 250 shocks had adjustable damping but i was hoping.
This shock is NITROGEN gas filled. It is not oil.
This KR shock has a Made In China sticker on the Yellow Barcode Label. I bet its not Japanese.
Why is the spring upside down, you reckon? The tighter winds of spring are at bottom of shock where as the originals are the opposite?
Should i unnscrew the preload tensioner and pull the spring off & turn it around????
Or leave it as it is????
The U-Shaped bracket does look weak. The SHAFT that the U-Shape bracket is bolted too also looks weak compared to the stock shock.
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Jacob, was the 250 SHOCK siezed a bit? Can you compress it? Does it REBOUND smoohtly after you compress it?
I think mine GT250r 2008 shock is toast. It doesn’t sink much at all when i sit on bike. After that it won’t compress. Every speed humnp i hit smacks me in the backside hurts my kidneys. It is not too unsafe to ride but it is not comfy at all.
I am wondering if i should get a Hyosung 250 shock or find an aftermarket that bolts straight on without any modifications. Anyone know of some aftermarket shocks for the GT250R 2998 models?
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Thanks, I ended up ordering one for a Suzuki on Amazon . It was literally the same exact part but a lot cheaper than the oem hyosung
I bought an aftermarket Fuel Cap as mine was rusty & leaking a bit of fuel out of the cap. I bought an ignition barrel too but couldn’t find teh rear seat lock to go with it, unitl after i bought it. Ended up ONLY fitting the fuel cap. So my iginiton and seat lock are the original hyosung key and the fuel tank is a seperate key. DOn’t like this setup much but its ok.
Can you tell us more about the SUZUKI parts you bought from Amazon please? Like the model of Suzuki it’s for. I’ve seen them but i dislike buying the wrong item, so i didn’t get it. Would like a new ignition barrel and lock and fuel tank cap with 1 key for the lot.
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The difference between the later model 650 forks is the shape of the mount on FORK LEG & postion of mounting holes for the 2x screws, yes?
If 400ml is maximum fork oil, then 380ml should be ok,yes
(will get slightly less damping as there is more air in tube to compress).
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The forks i bought are black from a GT650, apparently 2007. My bike is 2008 GT250R.
Did they have black adjustable forks on a 2007 650?
I have the 650 manual for the 2010 bikes & the forks look the same but the max oil amount seems high.
The holes for the calipers to BOLT onto, on the new forks seem to line up with the old forks.
So 380ml Fork Oil should be ok & my 250’s brake calipers should bolt straight on. That was the plan.
My bike will not require the same damping as a 650 & the new oil is quite thick.
I just hope they fit as i’m excited about adjusting the compression & damping & having heavier springs.
My wheels are from a 650, so the original forks are not ideal due to the extra weight.
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Hi ChezneyCamden, my first guess would be ignition coils, as Marcel said. They are easy to swap.
Simon says it may be side-stand switch or clutch switch, which are also easy enough to replace.
If my headlights are ON, it will not let me start my bike. If the side-stand goes down while engine running, bike will turn off.
I’d be suprised if the STATOR is not working but it’s possible. The original stators are pretty good.
The chinese aftermarket Stators are not good – their rubber GROMMET DOES NOT stop OIL from pouring out of the stator cover.
I have 2x old, used original stators and they work fine. The NEW chinese one caused me a lot of frustration.IF the bike hasn’t RUN for a long time, put it IN GEAR (1st or 2nd) then rock the bike very slightly forwards bit by bit – just little, light pushes.
This will turn the engine over bit by bit & help lubricate it a bit for when you do start it.
Very easy to do, takes only 30 seconds, won’t get your hands dirty but it’s good to move the pistons up & down if they haven’t been.
Good luck.-----LaserBeam---->
G’day Nick1. Nice bike. Love that colour. What is the name of the Dealership you use? It is good they still help you. I can only buy parts from HyosungAU.
No dealer here will even look at my bike. They won’t help with simple questions & they hold Hyosungs in such little regard, it makes me want to break-in to their shop at night & wheel some stuff out. I buy parts from HyosungAU mostly & they are ok. Got a couple of wrong parts but they refunded me.
I’d love a dealer & a mechanic to look at it when i can’t be bothered. It’s been hot here.
https://www.hyosungpartsau.com/ (Genuine parts to your door)The rust in the tank is easy to fix. My GT250R also had rust. I’m yet to fix it as there are more important issues with the bike,
like NO FRONT BRAKES. Just fixed that; riding is much more fun when you can stop the bike. I will do a photo tutorial of rust removal someday.
Take the tank off, empty the fuel out & temporarily SEAL-UP any place the fuel can drain out from under tank, (fuel petcock).
Pour a mixture of water (i’ll use distilled/demineralised water) & a pH Increaser (used for swimming pools) into the tank;
fill it to the near the top of your fuel cap hole. Then connect a BATTERY, like a car battery, to the tank & to a piece of metal like a big allen key or steel rod,
(that is small enough to fit INSIDE the tank WITHOUT TOUCHING the metal of the tank). You suspend this allen key in non-conducting material,
over the fuel cap hole, so the metal is touching the solution isnide the tank but not the tank itself, (will advise on postive & negative location, i can’t recall).
Once the battery is connected correctly, current will flow through the solution in the tank & ALL THE RUST will leave the WALLS of the TANK
& attach itself to the sacrificial allen key or steel rod that is inserted into the fuel tank.If your rust is heavy it may take all night & a reapeat with clean solution & maybe a fresh allen key.
If your rust is not that bad this process will only take 2 hours to 3 hours i think.
To keep the car battery from running flat, connect a battery charger to the battery for the duration of the process.
CAUTION! Don’t leave this running without checking on it. The solution starts to bubble & there will be movement in the solution.
The biggest danger is the metal rod or Allen Key touching the metal of the tank, which will spark & make the fuel tank live.
So you can get a zap from it. Good idea to KEEP MONITIORING IT & to DISCONNECT the NEGATIVE LEAD from the battery before you touch the tank.-----LaserBeam---->
Hey guys, I’ve got a particular 2010 housing that feels off. The rear suspension feels super tight, bugger all compression when I sit on it and just generally ass to ride.
The shock on my GT250R feels the same. Compresses a bit when i sit on bike but then it’s very hard to compress, unless i stand on pegs & bounce bike. I’m changing the front forks as i think they are also causing handling issues.
If you swap your rear shock, take some photos for us please. I’ve got too muhc work to do on this bike already but i’ll do the rear shock if it’s not painful.
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Good advice from Marcel. Carbs on my 250 are different but i had fuel spraying into my airbox. The Float-Valves Screens were clogged-up & their O-rings weren’t sealing; letting in too much juice. I used the old Original Carby Floats so i wouldn’t have to adjust the Float Height. If your hoses are in the right place, carbs may be to blame but a tank petcock failure may push too much juice in too. Marcel thinks of everything 🙂
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I wanted to replace my stator. Bought a Chinese one. Was unable to get 2 of the 3 screws out of stator cover to remove the original stator. Bought a used stator cover & installed the Chinese stator into it. This caused a big OIL LEAK from the RUBBER grommet covering the stator wires, which should stop oil but doesn’t – it’s the wrong shape. Bought another used stator cover & stator & it’s working but there’s a slight oil leak, at the idler adjustment screw, on the stator cover. I should not have touched the stator, mine was fine before i tried to replace it.
So original & new replacements are the BEST if possible, although not the cheapest. Also the current Hyosung Stator Cover GASKETS are made of blue paper. The ones on the bike work better and are black. They feel like rubber. I bought 1mm rubber material to make my own gasket but it’s a bit fiddly so i got half way done then gave up. I’ll make em another day. HOT TIP, if you get a small razor thin blade you can lift the stator cover GASKET up just enough to pass the wiring loom through, without breaking the gasket. The black gasket on the bike may be used again if it’s not too compressed or broken. I found a used black gaskets work better than new blue paper gaskets.
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Thanks heaps, Marcel. I’m getting the REAR Calipers for the front of my bike as we speak. I thought i’d check if you’d posted. Glad you say the rear is ok as i NEVER had a bike with the same SIZE calipers on the rear & it was hard to go for them. But i can use a bracket when i take them off & pop it on the rear for looks. 🙂
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i’m taking the GV250 ones as you suggested. Thanks heaps for all your help mate.
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Hey mate, thanks for helping – i have to buy them soon- need to ride. I’m NOT buying aftermarket calipers but they exist.
Hyosung say they have NO TCTC FRONT Calipers for 2008 Gt250R. But thy DO have REAR TCTC Calipers for 2008 GT250R.
Is that REAR Caliper made by TCTC for a 2008 GT250R exactly the same as the FRONT CALIPERS should be, for my 2008 bike?
They look the same. They have a different bracket, as you say. I can undo the 2x bolts and put my bracket on, as you say.
My choices are 2x TCTC GT250R REAR CALIPERS to be put on the FRONT of the bike.
Or, 2x TCTC GV250 FRONT CALIPERS to be put on the FRONT.
Are ALL these CALIPERS IDENTICAL? Identical apart from the brackets, which undo with 2x bolts?
Would you buy the Rear GT250R calipers or the Front GV250 calipers to put on the front of a GT250R?
Sorry to keep asking but Hyosung jsut sell parts – i don’t think the guy i talk to there can even ride a motorbike.
He has to contact KOREA everytime i ask a question. Product Knowledge is what it’s about, expecially if trying to sell it.
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Marcel, just tried to buy FRONT CALIPERS from HYOSUNG. They say they only have REAR Calipers for GT250/650. This part looks the same as the FRONT but is it? Is the REAR caliper on a 2008 Hyosung GT250R the same as the 2x FRONT CALIPERS? I got to buy them soon so i can ride. Found it weird that Hyosung don’t offer any FRONT CALIPERS except the new black EFI ones.
FRONT CALIPER Part Numbers: 59300HG5112 (GV125 / GV250 ).
REAR CALIPER Part Number: 69300HN9102 69300HP9500 69300H79B00 (GT125/GT250/GT650).
I need 2x Front Calipers for GT250R 2008. There’s no stock of FRONT. Is the REAR the same exact part?
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So improving it would require these: Braided lines. All hyosung calipers suffer from piston corrosion. Stainless Pins. GV250 uses the same caliper , just use your own bracket. GT650 got upgraded to BIG 4 piston calipers, but the forks also got updated. They will not fit 250cc without the updated 650cc forks.
Good information, thank you Marcel. You saved me a lot of exp[erimentation & time/money wasting. I saw the GV250’s looks same – glad i can swap bracket. I wanted to try the new black GT650 EFI brake calipers – but i had a feeling they wouldn’t fit. Thank you – save me money & time. You are right about corroding Hyosung pistons. All my pistons front & rear are seized. I pulled the front apart got them moving but they locked up agaoin as soon a s i put them on the bike. My Front Master Cylinder also seized after i took it off for a week to try out another one. I had to buy another form Hyosung and i will be buying the brakes form them too. Found 2nd-hand Hyosung calipers but they ask too much & they will be seized & rubbish anyway.
I went for ride with NO front brakes … i wouldn’t recommend it to anyone who wants to live. Your heart makes you pull the front brake lever, even when your brain knows it won’t help ya at all. Anyway, i’m still here. I’m like the back-brake expert now. The trick is to put your left foot on the road to slow down like Fred Flintstone. Takes a bit longer than normal.
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Burned toast, smokey bacon flavoured plugs. I had that black stuff all through my motor and all out the exhausts & the muffler. I had gunked up, failing carbs & oil getting passed rings & buring a black slduge through the bike a just bought … “Nothing to spend” he said … “It’s only done 2,700kms”, he said. I’m still cleaning up all his mess!
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Just rebuilt the front head, new gaskets, lapped valves, used piston, new rings, and still low compression. 100psi. Checked valve clearances, intake reads 0.08 0.05 exhaust 0.10 0.10. Could this cause the compression issues? Thanks in advance
Did you put new rings on old pistons, then pop them back in to old cylinders?
What did your cylinder walls look like? Do they have deep, vertical scratches?
Did the old pistons have scratches that match the scratches on the cyclinder walls?
Rings are important & relatively easy to swap. Honing the Cylinder walls is pretty darn important to but it’s messy & expensive if you get a pro to do it properly.
I jrecently did it myself but didn’t do my valves yet, Perhaps you could help me with that?
I’ll be doing a photo tutorial of my D.I.Y. rings, pistons & cylinder honing.
My guess is that you’ve got a lack of compression from slightly worn pistons & cylinder walls. It is possible that your timing is out a bit – that makes it seem like low compression when ridiing. Your exhaust valve gaps should be 0.2 – 0.3 for a 250 i think. What bike is it? Bigger shims in there should sort that out. The Intakle Clearances should be 0,1 i think, so you could add some shims to those to open them up a bit more too. As it is i dont think your bike is getting enough Fuel/Air in or exhaust out. It’s not bad but you may notice better power with more open valves, if it is a 250.
PS. I’d buy 2x new pistons, with rings, pins, retaining clips & both head gaskets. Hyosung have them but aftermarket piston kits will save you a few dollars. I highly recomend the Original Equipment Hyosung GASKETS – they are like rubber, not paper. I used a paper gasket on the head and an orignal metal gasket above it. The paper is ok but for stator cover & clutch cover gaskets, the hyosung ones stop oil leaks way better.
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Sourcing parts is quite an issue, any advice will be helpful.
This will help you:
GV125 PARTS CATALOGUE: https://hyosungsource.com/catalogs/hyosung/GV125PARTSCATALOGUE.pdf
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[/quote]Great images, Jim. It’s a very tidy bike & you’ve got some sweet places to ride it. Sorted. 🙂
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