LaserBeam
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Nice investment in to the endoscope, we use them sometimes…
Endoscope Cams are really handy. Some are cheaper than chips. I used my cheap USB endoscope for this job. Plugs into a phone; uses an APP or slots into your laptop with software. The camera is about 4-5mm wide & perched on bendable-wire. LED lights, around the camera, which you can turn up, down & off.
Sadly my little endoscope couldn’t get a view of the cam chain, where kinks would be. Bugger. Anyway, i ROTATED the crank slowly with my fingers on the chain to feel for the kink. No kinks-very relieved.ENDOSCOPE CAMERAS: https://wonderfulengineering.com/10-best-wireless-endoscope-cameras/
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it looks quite expensive to get a shim kit 7.48mm
It is, hey? I was suprised. You can get individual shims of 7.48mm. Write down the SHIM for each VALVE in your bike. The SIZE of the SHIM is written on the top. There’s an A, B, C & D stamped inside the head assembly so i write down Front A-170 B-175, etc. Then i bought shims that were slightly bigger & was going to put them in but it won’t be right. Getting feeler guages to measure the gaps & buy the exact shims required for each of the 8 valves.
I’m well & truely sorting a troubled 2008 GT250R out. It’s going to be very lively when the gaskets arrive & i put the head back on. If you want i can help you get that bike running well without it costing you much.
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So it is safer to get the rotor off
I’ve got an Endoscope Camera to see if the timing-chain is on the teeth correctly too. Small ones are very cheap & plug into phone or laptop’s USB Ports. They have a bendy wire so you can get it in behind the flywheel, etc. If there’s a kink, send the magnet tool in again. It’s a good, fast fix. Saved me time searching for a Suzuki puller (?) for the 250 & money. I’m anxious to ride.
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Sadly, you will have to get the flywheel off. Quote
That’d be best but i couldn’t accept that.
I replaced the loose Cam timing-chain with a bit of magic instead. 😎 From the FRONT of the ENGINE, i slid a Telescopic Magnet Tool beneath the UNDERSIDE of the TOP part of the Timing-Chain then pushed it in & lifted it up. I also got some slack on the LOWER part of the timing-chain by pushing that in a bit with a 2nd Magnet Tool from the LEFT SIDE of motor. Then I pushed the top & lower parts of the chain TOWARDS the engine from the LEFT & carefully take up the slack on the lower part of the chain.
Took me 5minutes. The hardest bit is getting your head between the front wheel & the front cylinder so you can see the teeth that your aiming your chain at. I’m fully stoked; hope this helps somone. (The risk of links kinking, by counting the pins & comparing to the other cylinders chain).
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Thank you, Marcel. The F and R do represent Top Dead Centre of the compression phase.
20ft lbs is about 27Newton Metres? My wrench is only Metric.
I put 2 new pistons & rings on & today i put the cylinders on those. Cam-chain of the FRONT cylinder has fallen off & turns freely.
How do i get the Cam Timing Chain back on?
Can i do it without removing the flywheel? (I have the stator cover off).
I’ve seen a guy flick it back on by giving it slack but i couldn’t manage it.
I’m dark about it – i tried so hard to keep the buggers in place.
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Rear 250cc Piston:Scratched, Burned & Crusty. Just the way i don’t like my toast … or anything really. Get you some of that!
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6mm Fuel Lines & 5mm Vacuum Hoses on my Hyosung GT250R.
Your 650 hoses will be bigger than this. It matters not.
The big hoses are for fuel & the smaller ones are vacuum.
I think the ORANGE BOX in your top photo is for VACUUM HOSE & connects to your Pump.
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Now this is the underside of the fuel tank you got the two which are obviously fuel lines I just don’t know which goes to which and then as for the red that actually seemed to be a place for a third hose???? I haven’t a clue and don’t plan on trying to start it until I do.QuoteG’day Hannah pool. Under Tank connections:
PINK is a 6mm Fuel Line on my GT250R. Fuel runs OUT from the tanks petcock there & connects to the FUEL-FILTER & then connects to the VACCUM PUMP.
Note: Vacuum PUMP has an ARROW-IN, an ARROW-OUT & a LETTER P stamped on the front of the pump . The arrows are located where the fuel lines connect to it.
Arrow-IN is FUEL-INTO-PUMP (from Fuel-Filter & Tank)Arrow-OUT is FUEL-INTO-CARBURETORLetter-P is for VACCUM HOSE (from INTAKE MANIFOLD at CYLINDER-1 or FRONT CYLINDER)LIGHT BLUE is 5mm hose like all the VACUUM LINES.RED is idk. Looks like a home-made drain-plug but i don’t know the GV650’s.I’d glue that screw with a bit of selleys all clear, so it doesn’t vibrate out, then fix it more seriously after a few rides.I’d also start the bike up, if all the FLUIDS are ok. arm it up, get it lubed, stop if you hear any funny noises or leaks.Keep some water nearby when you start it up – if it leaks fuel onto a hot exhaust it may ignite but i doubt it. Will probably just evaporate.Flick the OFF SWITCH or turn the KEY OFF & pour water or sand on the fire. Fire Extinguishers also work.It won’t catch on fire but it can’t hurt to have water in a bucket nearby to wash-off drips.Hyosung GV650 Tank Parts-----LaserBeam---->
gonna pull the trigger likely tomorrow on either a 2006 GV250 (regulator might need to be replaced) or a 2017 GV250 (regulator definitely has to be replaced and also needs a new cable for the speedometer)- both run well. Similarly priced (although guy’s willing to trade the 2006 for my current 125 and some cash, which’ll make my life a little easier). 2006 seem
Hi Pj, if the 2017 bike is running, & looks pretty good, i would buy that. The bearings all over it are going to be 11 years newer as will the rest of it
Is the 2017 bike running; does it start & can it be ridden normally? If the guy wants to trade your 125 for his 250 i wonder if his bike has worn piston rings like my 2008 GT250R?
Check the oil window for the colour of the oil and look for white, blue or black smoke out the exhaust and the smell of burned oil. Don’t buy the burnt oil smelling one, like he did. It just makes you angry.
Carburetors vs ECU’s is a good question. ECU’s can make it easier to DIAGNOSE problems in cars but i’m not sure the Hyosung ECU’s are that helpful; just check this forum. Carburetors are mechanical so you can clean them & unscrew & replace worn parts. ECU’s are responsible for the air and the fuel electronically & they use several sensors to determine a bunch of parameters which allow it to calculate the ratio. The fuel/air system can still be cleaned with ECU’s & in theory they should be a better system.
Please ask Marcel about the quality of the 2017 ECU’s. If they were reliable i would buy the 2017 bike & clean it up so it looks way better than the clean 2006 bike. SHould be better by miles but idk. Happy shopping bro.
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G’day Jonathon, your bike looks in good shape. Marcel & these have the knowledge to get that up and running. Your step by step problem solving is the go. If cash is no problem i’d buy an ECU but it may just be broke/shorted/disconnect wiring. I wonder why your headlight has no power to it at the fuze? That seems a bit odd hey? Those lights need power to glow. And a fuze without power is just extra weight 🙂
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a picture of my home made dealer tool. Its just an on/off toggle switch with some wires, plug and heat shrink. I turned on the ignition and kill switch so that the fuel pump primed so that the then usual CHE would come up on the dash. I then turned the dealer tool to ON and then the c12 code came up on the dash!
Handy little gadget & will save cash. Thank you mate. I’m stoked your bike is going. Serviced my carburetors & up-jetted them. The jets, floats & float seats were all gross. Bike runs so good, has a working choke, there’s no fuel spraying into the airbox anymore & it sounds so beastie with 95 & 97.5 Main Jets.
I’m not so stoked about discovering fried piston rings. Not sure if i can do the job myself but i’ll ask Marcel & the guys how to. I can’t stop thinking about bashing the seller but his son is huge. NOTHING TO SPEND he kept telling me. I’m mad & sad at the same time. Just started to love this GT250R. Was getting it on it’s side … spending all this time and cash on it … 🙁-----LaserBeam---->
Finally I can upload a photo demonstrating what I meant at the beginning of the post. You can clearly see where the bottom coil had been rubbing on the swing arm. I’ve since resolved the issue by subtly grinding a flat spot in the bottom coil to give adequate clearance. Its only a tiny bit but its enough without compromising the integrity of anything. All is good now with all of the linkages etc cleaned, regreased and reinstalled.
Good job bro. It looks like the bottom of the spring was also hitting the swingarm. It looks a bit grazed & rusted. Good thing you found that issue – would’ve made for a horrible ride & pretty unsafe. I been looking at mine just to be sure i’m ok. 😀
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Rear brake has been staying on since i got the bike & it’s toasted the disc. Haven’t ridden for a week & there was no MotoGP so i’m a bit edgey. I think the Rear Master Cylinder is siezing-up, but it’s a guess.QuoteYikes, you definitely need brakes both front and rear working very well, this could a good excuse to overhaul the the whole brake system anyways
My Rear Brake Master Cyclinder did SIEZE. It was full of rusty brake fluid. I couldn’t save it even after a cleaning. Fitted a cheap replacement and it actually works alright. Cost me only $6 Pounds. I know- what a bargain. Has a cheesey little reservoir & hoses but it’s working. I been riding in a thunderstorm just because the bike CAN be ridden now.
The rear brake staying on has been costing me about 20km/h top speed & a fair bit of juice. I rode for 2 days without the back brake – that’s a bit scary.
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Hi yall, I am looking for a complete engine for my much loved 650 GT Any tips or recommendations welcome
What happened to your motor? Did you blow it up,running it without oil or something?
You can get a complete used replacement engine for your bike. Any 650 Hyosung motor that used an ECU, like yours does, should fit.
Try to get a 2016 model or close. The old bikes had Carburettors. Some people have converted them to work but its probably a headache.
Try the local motorcycle wreckers & online bike sale places. A used 250 motor is worth about AU$400 ($206Pounds). I’ve seen 2x entire GT250’s for AU$500 ($258Pounds) also. And there are more Hyosungs where you are so they should be cheaper for a wreck or unregistered bike.
There are some videos of how to put a new motor into a Hyosung on YouTube – you may need a 2nd guy to help you lift it in but it doesn’t look too complicated.
If you can’t find these videos, i’ll find a link for ya. Try to get a motor that WAS RUNNING WELL so you can plug & play without the need to rebuild it.
Bike Wreckers, Online Bike Sellers & even eBay will have bikes & parts for sale. I’m really keen to find out how the first motor died?
I’m gonna make sure i don’t do it to my bike. 🙂
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[/quote] G’day. Nice bike. Welcome to the Hyosung Club. 😎
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Good news … except for the photos, (not your fault). I’m happy about that fix. I should be fixing my bike. Rear brake has been staying on since i got the bike & it’s toasted the disc. Haven’t ridden for a week & there was no MotoGP so i’m a bit edgey. I think the Rear Master Cylinder is siezing-up, but it’s a guess. I also lost a grub screw from the rear caliper on wet roads, so maybe water & dirt got in & is making a slider stick. Ordered an aftermarket Brake Master Cylinder & hope it fits the bike & isn’t rubbish. I never used the back brake this hard in my life – it’s been locking-up the rear and sliding up to the cars that pull out infont of me. Once the bike turned left & when it stopped sliding it almost threw me over the highside, to the right. Brakes … need those working, hey? 😉-----LaserBeam---->
Ive since removed the entire linkage and shock for servicing and taken more pictures that show where the bottom coil has been rubbing on the swing arm. Its rubbed through the paint on both the coil and swing arm and has surfacerust there. Its always been that way with this bike. I can’t seem to upload the photos, the upload function isn’t working for me for some reason?
The bike looks really nice now mate, apart from the hazard you found. Don’t stress bro, i reckon you can sort that no worries.
Take some metal off the swingarm with a grinder, without creating a weak spot? If that’s not enough for clearance, take a bit off the spring too. Preferably just the swingarm. Could also hammer the CONTACT point on the swingarm but may not have the room to swing it with swingarm on the bike. Can use a diamond hand-file but it will take a while. Spray Rust-Inhibitor from SuperCheapAuto onto swingarm when you’re done. It’s almost the same black as the Hyosung frame. It’s a primer but you won’t need a top coat as it looks fine. idk where to get the red from. Maybe Ferrari.
Feel for frame to swingarm play/movement & check the connection at the TOP end of the shock for rust or bad welds or damage, bro.
PS. I’ll be buggered if i can get photos to upload here too.
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‘dealer tool’ to diagnose fault codes. They plug into the port near the fuse boxes in the tail of the bike and they’re simply an on/off switch. All they do as it turns out, is toggle between one of two modes in the ecu. Normal mode and diagnostic mode. So, I made my own. It triggered a code to display on the dash which was c12. The manual says its the pick up coil fault. The stator and reg/rectifier were near new and clearly not the original factory ones. There was no way that they were connected to the wiring harness. I corrected it by plugging the pick up coil plug into the matching plug on the wiring harness based on the matching wire colours and hey presto, she finally fired up!
That’s awesome. I’m really glad your bike is running. I didn’t want you to spend too much cash.
Please post a picture of the dealer tool you made, to toggle the ECU modes. Gonna add one to my tool kit for my next Hysoung, im already looking at 😆
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Hi I have a hyosung gv125 aquila 2009 does anybody know if you can use another carborator apart from the mikuni bds26 type double I have put new jets floats and needles and it still won’t run properly I have tried everything I know so if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated Thanks
Hi John. I improved my 250’s carbs by running a strong fuel-cleaner on high-octane fuel, (for 2-3 tanks atlow-high revs). Mine need a service but i’m dredding it. New Ignition Coils & plugs you probably tried. If not, do them for sure. Marcel knows carbs; tell him what it sounds like. Theres a good BDS26 overhaual here:
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Hey, Glad you joined us! what are your future plans for it ? Quote
Thanks, sorry for late reply. Plans: Repair, rejuvinate & resurrect. My style of driving & riding requires a well maintained machine for safety, mostly. Bike was not loved as much as it deserved, which can wreck the next rider. I’ve changed Air Filter, Spark Plugs, Ignition Coils, Fuel Filter, Fuel Lines & Clamps, Cleaned & Lubricated F&R Brakes, Oil Flush & Oil Refill, Tightened Drive-Chain, CDI Unit, Fuel Pump, Fuel System Cleaner, Rasied Pegs, Scrubbed unused Edges of Tyres, Degreased & Washed. Bought Stator, Gold 520 Chain, Volt Regulator & Solenoid but not yet installed.
My plans: Bigger Air Cooler with a Fan & Switch, Brighter AUX Headlights & Switch, Respray All Farings, Marcel’s Carb Upgrade (#95 & #97.5 i think) & Carb Needle Modification & Carb Service, although carbs make me nervous – i don’t know much about them & don’t have vacuum guages, etc. Bought some carb service/repair parts but worried i’ll turn the wrong screw & stop the bike starting. I like riding a lot more than repairing … but my gut tells me the carbys were not looked after & need help.
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