Gt250r efi stator problem

[Peadar]

Hi folks, anyone have any idea what might cause this level of damage to the wiring exiting the windings. Obviously I have to replace the stator but is there any underlying problem I should look for before I do. Also is there a suitable replacement in the hyoriders shop. Bike is a 2009 gt250r efi. Any help much appreciated.

[Cobra2]

Regulator is most probably fubar…-get the uprated one…

Old and grumpy,(?), have fairly wide engine & tuning experience, "restoring/resto-mod" on cars & mc, worked as electronic tech. (retired).

GT125R - sold. New (used): 2012-GT250R-efi (sold)+ 2017-GV-125C (sold) - got my old 2018-GT-125R back... 🙂

[♠️ M77]

Stator has burnt itself, it does happen.

Can you do the following please?
– Show us the flywheel (for any damage) ? and even the numbers printed on the side of the flywheel.
– DO NOT buy chinese stators on ebay they will NOT work (most of them are hit and miss!) trust me. I own multiple hyosungs & fix customer ones here in north england.
– Can you show us the sensor of stator so i can understand what type it is.
– Can you show us the ECU = Believe me, different ECU’s (There is 4 for GV250 EFi & even the GT has 4 too) require different stators , sometimes “by force” a flywheel that matches is included (Standard KR Motors fashion) , but can still get away using old flyhweel if it matches and keep the new one as back up.

Once i have this information , i will read your replies and will also advise you. I made custom orders for EFi including upgrade regulators because i am now officially going to do stator kits for EFi bikes with some custom parts included as one (can’t be split) as a Limited Run basis, that should keep a few more GV250 EFi’s on the road as they are nice bikes to be fair , I like them.

I know you have a GT250cc but remember most of its EFi electronics are robbed from GV250 EFi too.

Perharps its also a good idea to do a thorough look at the bike’s electronics with a meter and service manual, tedious task i know believe me, but least a multimeter can help you check other parts are in spec and not slowly being cooked off (ie ignition coils, ht caps, ET sensor on the engine head, etc)

Keep us posted!

[Peadar]

Thanks for the input folks. I’m adding the photos Marcel requested in case the numbers on the flywheel aren’t legible (no sign of damage btw) after the direction arrow is YS and below that is 32102HR86. The sticker on the cpu is unreadable so I hope you’re able to distinguish it by visual. The sensor doesn’t have any markings nor does the stator. I hope this helps.

Flywheel front view

Top view

Flywheel top view

Cpu

[♠️ M77]

Send me an email via the site contact form if you require me to try source the parts for you and thank you for the pictures.

You have the Sentec ECU (2008 only era ECU) , very impossible to replace, so please i’d advise making sure no electrics cook it!

[Liam]

Hey so I have a similar issue with my 2015 gt650r. Took the bike for a ride, ended up pushing it home since it wouldn’t start back up. Turns out it drained the battery and the charging system wouldn’t charge, so I’ve tested the stator with a multi meter which gave me a very low to 0 ohms reading.

i assume the stator is burned out but I can’t figure out which one I have to replace it, I will attach some photos.

Any advice would be appreciated, thank you.

 

[Simon]

The readings on the stator should be low eg 0.54,0.48,0.49 something like that so you may be lucky & it’s just the rectifier that’s gone

[Liam]

From memory it was around 0.04 0.02 and flat 0.00

will measure again when I get the chance though

could there still be an issue with the rectifier? Or will it have stopped at the stator?

[Simon]

You could have lost a phase but if it’s not charging it’s going to be the rectifier

[Liam]

I measured the stator again and it gave me 0 across all 3 pins. so I think it’s safe to say the stator is dead.

of Marcel or someone else can give me a recommendation on which stator I should buy to replace it that would be appreciated.
photos to help identify it

 

[LaserBeam]

I wanted to replace my stator. Bought a Chinese one. Was unable to get 2 of the 3 screws out of stator cover to remove the original stator. Bought a used stator cover & installed the Chinese stator into it. This caused a big OIL LEAK  from the RUBBER grommet covering the stator wires, which should stop oil but doesn’t – it’s the wrong shape. Bought another used stator cover & stator & it’s working but there’s a slight oil leak, at the idler adjustment screw, on the stator cover. I should not have touched the stator, mine was fine before i tried to replace it.

So original & new replacements are the BEST if possible, although not the cheapest. Also the current Hyosung Stator Cover GASKETS are made of blue paper. The ones on the bike work better and are black. They feel like rubber. I bought 1mm rubber material to make my own gasket but it’s a bit fiddly so i got half way done then gave up. I’ll make em another day. HOT TIP, if you get a small razor thin blade you can lift the stator cover GASKET up just enough to pass the wiring loom through, without breaking the gasket. The black gasket on the bike may be used again if it’s not too compressed or broken. I found a used black gaskets work better than new blue paper gaskets.

-----LaserBeam---->

[Author]

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