LaserBeam
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No oil filter ? ~That’s crazy! I mean the oil filter is so common , a lot of Suzukis use it!
FORM A M6 washers will “just about” fit inside the filter cover but washers are generally not needed.
Yeah i got a fright & felt guilty for redlining the bike. Bought SUZUKI Oil Filters but got 4 of the wrong ones, (from a DDR200 i think; were too LONG). What Suzi Oil Filter should i buy? FormA washers-cheers. (Using WASHERS under BOLT-HEAD as new bolts were 25mm long & bolt i REMOVED was 23mm. Washer is to take up space but also so bolt-head doesn’t scratch the oil filter cover).
Bike ran rough when i put new oil filter in, but 2 days later it’s smooth. Changes gear very well; the new oil is superb.A bit of soot & smoke especially when cold – i want to show you the SPARK PLUGS to see what you think of them. I think it’s not burning fuel efficiently & there’s some fuel spray in the airbox above Carby 1.-----LaserBeam---->
use a mini dremel steel disc, cut top off nut, then slice it down,
Marcel, your mini-dremel is solution is prob the best. I’ve got a die-grinder but my air-compressor is in bits. Began rebuilding it then decided to use a power-drill, with cutting stones, to file down the Dome Nut. Lost a bit of paint off the Oil Filter Cap & the Clutch Cover. Knew i would; it’s not bad. Then i hit Dome Nut with a 12mm Cold Chisel on top & sides … bastard Nut didn’t come off. But it stopped spinning & temporarily locked onto the BOLT so i used a 10mm Socket to remove them both.
The old bolt & Nut were toast. Got stainless steel M6 BOLTS 25mm long. For washers i used 3x red M5 FIBRE WASHERS (M6 washers are too big for the cover). Could use O-Rings. The head of my BOLTS don’t look as good as the dome nuts but they work; no leaks.
😯 I had a strong feeling that i MUST remove the Oil Filter Cover & replace the Filter. Guess what i found there? … Nothing. That’s what i said, nothing. An empty space with a spring & 2 old O-Rings. I got a fright. NO OIL FILTER. Some egg took old filter out, didn’t put a new one in, then locked the Oil Filter Cap on. Filters are important, cost almost nothing & only take a few minutes to install. I put 2x new O-Rings in & a new oil filter & i can do it again for the next service. I’m Super happy to have an Oil Filter. Never thought i’d be saying that.
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8.8 is the grade of stainless steel , the thread size is 6mm , sorry i wasnt clear , my bad.
G’day Marcel, its cool. I took an old one & matched it. Dome Nuts are 6mm internal thread, as you said.
We call them ‘M6’. A 10mm socket fits the M6 Nut.
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Thank you Marcel, a mini-dremel is perfect. I’m just about to hit the nut with a cold chisel to split the top, then tap 1 side of the nut until it breaks off. I hope the BOLT is not spinning. I dont think it is, as i cant pull it out. The thread size of the nut is super helpful, thank you, Marcel. 8.8mm thread dome nut. It’s a 10mm socket to get it off i think.
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Did you apply throttle with a pair of pliers all the way home? Nice work. That’s not much fun.
My throttle cable rotates under the handlebar switch (at the curved metal piece, infornt of your pliers). It’s probably normal but mine gets stuck with the bend pointing to the front of bike. When i turn right at near full-lock, it pulls the cable tight around the right fork, the throttle opens up & starts revving it’s head off, when i’m trying to do slow, tight turns. That’s no fun either. 🙂
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I’ve just put another harness and ecu on mine (early EFI) … I would recommend checking the colours etc against the loom you take out before powering up. Also power up without the ECU on, as there’s plenty you can check without it on, save blowing it! I’ll be uploading some wiring tips in the near future.
Good stuff, Chris thanks mate. Don’t stress if it’s too hard bro. I don’t wanna put anyone out.I hope Julians ECU is ok, as they are expensive. A entire used wiring loom is about 89Pounds Sterling or AU$170.The ECU’s cost a lot more.-----LaserBeam---->
Ive since got the other dash, it powers up finally. Zeros show on LCD screen as sevens! original dash was broken somewhat. Still no fuel pump priming up and no start. There’s no CHE or anything on the dash. Interestingly even with ecu un plugged, it doesn’t change the display. Im thinking that the ecu is screwed?im really beginning to loose faith in this thing.
G’day Julian, hang in there mate. Glad the dash lights up but odd speedo readings; no way the bike has done 729,000km. Swapping or returning the 2ndHand Speedo as Marcel said is a good option if it’s there. Marcel’s idea of a new starter motor SOLENOID is a good one. Often overlooked – won’t let your bike turn over. They affordable & comprise of a positive screw, a negative screw and a connector. Easy.
I don’t like the fuel pump not getting power thing. idk but maybe the ECU has taken a blow. At least you know there’s a wiring or electrical issue now. There’s a guy in SA selling a wiring harness for a 2010 or 2011 model efi GT650R on eBay. He may have the ECU too. Ask the sellers that have your EFI model. Check your SERIAL NUMBERS and year & match the serial. When it’s running you’ll be smiling big time & forget about the work that went in.
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I’ve since bought another dash and it’s on its way. It looks rough but as long as it works
This is a repalcement display board for a Hyosung GT250R. Can get one for a GT650S /GT650R but ONLY CARBY models.
Looks like your option is a pricey new speedo or 2nd-hand, like you bought.
If the display board on the 2-hand speedo WORKS, i’d put it in the bikes ORIGINAL speedo.
https://pixelfed.au/i/web/post/696600763827352379
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The ELECTROLYTE can be several types of powders but a SWIMMING POOL electrolyte may be the best value. It’s mixed with distilled water or demineralized water but i cant recall the ratio. The electrolytes help the electric current pass through the water efficiently. This process is much faster & cleaner than waiting for acid to disolve the rust. I love the concept; hope it helps you all. 😀
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The power cut-off issue, my bike has, is not as bad as it was. The coils, leads & caps are new; they problem was there before.
I read that the CDI unit has some sort of cut-off that causes this problem. It’s the result of some emission laws, they said.
I can’t verify if they are right. Apparently you cut one of the wires to the CDI unit & it MAY make the problem go away.
My green wire to my CDI was already cut & they didn’t leave any wire for me to reconnect it for test purposes.
When i put a new CDI unit onthe bike i still have no green wire connected to it. They say cutting it was meant to fix this cut-out sceanrio but it hasn’t.
I got the GT250R to 10,000RPM today in a few gears but i should really fix her before revving her too much. Big service is due.
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Hi, Uvcmn. my GT250R has similar problems to yours – not as bad.
I haven’t totally fixed it but it runs better than when i bought it. My plugs were a bit sooty and the exhaust is sooty.
My Front Cyclinder does not get as warm as the rear, ever. I can smell unburt fuel out the pipe.
I get FUEL on the AIR FILTER coming from Cylinder-1 Carby, i think.
And i get this horrible CUT-OFF of power when i have the throttle near fully open, (this cut-off used to be at 5000-6000 revs).
I still get the cut-off of power but it’s now at 9500-10000rpmw, which is a lot better.
Power completely cuts out while i’m on the gas and head down – it’s a bit scary & even more annoying.
I’ve not fixed the issue(s) but i guess my issue is with the CARBYS.
To IMPROVE the situation i changed all fuel lines, new fuel vacuum pump, bigger fuel filter, new spark plugs, new ignition coils & a new CDI unit.
I also bought a Voltge Regulator but it’s not installed yet.
I also added a strong FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER to the PETROL TANK, several times & gave the bike long runs at high revs.
Then i sprayed a bit of CRC Carby Cleaner into the INTAKE of the carbys. If you are taking the CARBS apart, you can spray this CRC all over the metal components.
This stuff eats paint but it’s amazing for cleaning the carbs – stonger than a brake cleaner.
All of that made the bike run much better but DIDN’T fix the cold front cyclinder or eliminate the power cut-out.
But it idles much better, runs much better & only cuts-out at the top of the rev range.
I will have to do my Carbs. I would love new carbys but i can buy half a Hyosung motorcycle for the same price.
If anyone finds out why the front cylinder is colder, i’d like to know. It doesn’t sit right with me – it’s not right.
Engines get hot, don’t they? 😆
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Julian, it’s possible to get a new display/circuit board for the GT250R. It looks like it may be the same for the 650. So you can keep your old speedo assembly & gauge. It looks a bit pricey but it’s not as much as a new speedo.
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G’day Rob, i’ll be doing a photo tutorial on Removing Rust from Fuel Tank.
If you have VERY MINOR surface rust you can use an ACID, like WHITE VINEGAR, or the products Ucvmn mentioned.
Simon’s method also works, where you place metal pieces into tank, swirl them around to lightly scratch off rust. Diesel may help keep tank walls from rusting too.
But the BEST METHOD & the only method any of you will ever use again is ELECTROLYSIS. You fill your tank with an electrolyte solution to the top, then you insert a metal rod like a steel bar or bolt into the tank & SUSPEND it so it DOESN’T TOUCH the TANK ANYWHERE, (ie. use wood or non-conducting material to hold the steel bar). Then you CONNECT the TANK & the METAL ROD to a battery, like a car battery, & let it bubble for 2 to 6 hours, depending on how rusted your tank is. DISCONNECT the BATTERY, pull out the Metal Rod & get ready to be really grossed-out cause it will be covered in a black, brown & red goo. That goo is most of the rust from your tank & it’s now stuck to that rod. Swirl the tank and empty the solution. Renew the soulton & pop another rod in the tank, if there’s still rust inside. When happy, empty the tank. Some people dry the tank with hair-dryer or heat gun. I’m just going to fill the tank with petrol or diesel a couple of time to rinse the tank & coat the walls with oiley stuff.
It’s like MAGIC. Just don’t zap yourself, don’t do it with petrol in the tank, don’t leave batteries unattended for long.
How do i keep the car battery from going flat? Good question; you are on the ball. Connect a car battery CHARGER to your battery for the duration.
💡 CAUTION! Don’t leave battery or charger unattended – check them every 20-30mins. They can explode you know. We don’t want that.
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Thanks Laser, Funny you mention Fireblade I used to have one too, What are you doing with your 250? I saw that you just got one. Any upgrades planned?
The GT250R i bought was not treated so well, although low kms. I’ve been giving it a lot of extra attention but slowly. It’s about to get a few minor enhancements. It has a good pipe on it but don’t know what size jets are on the carbs. They’ll need work later; im not looking forward to it. To date i’ve made it cleaner, safer & smoother. It’s got some new parts; it’s about to get more. Will post some pics of the work on the forum.
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The original headlight was smashed so im beginning to think that whatever impacted the headlight was enough to disrupt something internally on the dash
If the bike hit hard head-on & broke the headlight cover, the speedometer is going to feel the impact.
Your replacement is a good way to test. Posted from the east no worries?
What’s the speedo like inside?
Buttons on mine are too hard to press i want to open it up & see if i can swap them out.
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That is a very cool first motorbike, Rufino. I also admire your choice of past-time. Riding is excellent.
Tips: Keep your eyes on the road ahead and around you. Look for things on the road like sand, water, oil, nails, stones … especially when turning. Warm-up the tyres on a straight road by carefully weaving left & right several times – not too aggressively, just need a bit of friction to heat the rubber.
Lightly apply REAR brake FIRST then front brake to STOP or SLOW quickly. It makes the rear of the bike squat and takes some weight of the front tyre, which allows you brake harder than if you squeeze the front and rear brake at the same time. Turning your headlight ON in the DAY makes us a bit more visible to cars …. don’t trust any car … at all … ever.
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I also then created a spreadsheet, listing all the ECU PIN numbers and then where they go and the wire colour, it makes it a bit quicker and easier than having to repeatedly check a wiring diagram. Just tape it to the board for reference.
Your board holding the wiring harness idea is mint, Chris.
Any chance you could upload your wire colours & ECU pin number spreadsheet mate?
I’d owe you a Pint, obviously, but it could help a lot of riders. Cheers.
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Ask Marcel & the crew again about problem solving the wiring issue.
My guess is your speedo/dash IS working.
Few wrecks here too. You’ll find them in NSW, VIC & QLD. (bikesales&gumtree)
Don’t need a wrecker; just a wrecked or unregistered GT650R of around 2010 (check the year with Marcel- not all dashes work)
I’d also like a Speedo & complete wiring harness, still attached to the speedo, as a backup for when my wires break.
I think the speedo for the 2010 EFI GT650R looks like this:
Genuine EFI speedometer ASSY GT650 GT650R GT650S
Looks like you can buy 2 different part numbered dashes for your bike there.
Theres a 3rd speedo but it’s for the newest models idk if its’ll work-prob not.
Yeah i’ve got an low mile 2008 GT250R that is requiring a fair bit of extra love to undo what the last dudes did.
I’ve had Hondas mostly but i’m enjoying this bike.
I’ve got GT650R wheels & tyres on mine. Doesn’t make it handle better but does put a big smile on my face.
PS. that wiring diagram ebpage i found was rubbish; the guys here are knowledgeable. Good luck.
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[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtmQlokrTWs?version=3&rel=1&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&fs=1&hl=en-GB&autohide=2&wmode=transparent%5D So ive made and uploaded a quick video to YouTube as requested. I haven’t had any time to play around with the bike since the last time as ive been flat out with other things. Looking forward to hearing any further advice! 👍Quote
G’day mate. You’ve done well uploading a video – i don’t know how to add a photo.
Im guessing it’s an electrical issue like a short or broken/disconnected wiring.
There’s a translation of the Hyosung Wiring Diagram online that explains their diagram a lot better.
I bookmarked it i think. Auto Electricians are expensive but are a good option if all else fails.
I’d buy a 2nd hand Speedometer, just to test it.
You can buy a 2nd hand one for around AU$100-150. A new one costs about AU$500-600,
My guess is that your speedo is ok though.
As some things like starter motor and lights work but your fuel pump doesn’t it sounds like you have an incomplete circuit.
Marcel and the guys here should be able to help you with testing the wiring.
I’d buy a 2nd hand ECU before a new one for test purposes after electrical checks.
idk about these ECU’s but normally sensors fail well before an ECU but its possible.
Stick with it; the twins are a good fun machine.
I’ve never owned a bike with hazard lights before. Did you wire them like that or is that the switch?
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Bike without stock muffler which I like the look of as the short exhaust seems more aesthetically pleasing.
Your bike looks nice; i’m a bit jealous. One of the many memorable things i did on my Fireblade was to take it for a ride with the muffler removed. It sounded like a rally car, no joke. It’s not great for the bike but it’s a hugely memorable experience. 😀
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