LaserBeam
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The tanks shape will not allow you to empty the tank completely through the filler hole. I kept FLUSHING with demineralized water, shaking it around, tipping it out & shaking tank up & down. Black pieces of metal were coming out. I didn’t get rid of them all. Tried to get them with a magnet but it’s a pain. Best way to empty tank is to remove the fuel level sender or the fuel pump & the fuel should dump easily. PROBLEM with that is trying to SEAL the tank again so it doesn’t leak. I DIDN’T want to risk it.
After shaking the water & metal bits out i sprayed WD40 inside the fuel tank. Works well. It makes MUCH of the last bit of water come out easier & anti-rusts at the same time. Shake the tank again with the WD40 or CRC then tip out. Repeat this process 4 times or more until the wetness in the tank is mostly WD40 not water. The last step was pouring UNLEADED FUEL into tank & shaking it, draining it & repeating the process until i was happy with the look & smell of the liquid coming out.
KEEP the TANK FULL of PETROL straight after FLUSH process & try to keep it that way always. Or the rust slowly comes back. Some people COAT the inside of tank with Nitrocellulose SURFACE PRIMER but it’s PAINTING & drying the inside of tank & spending more time & money. I didn’t want to. You don’t need to.
I didn’t use deisel fuel to FLUSH the tank, although it may seal surface better. Would need even more unleaded to flush that out. Wasteful.
I DIDN’T DRY the TANK. Just FLUSH with Demin. water, then WD40, then unleaded, is ok. My bike has been running nicely & removing the rust gives peace of mind. The big bits i couldn’t get out are too big to get passed the fuel filter or into my Carbies. I will probably do this process again to get them … one day
Keep pouring water & WD40 in until you’re happy with the amount of black bits you’ve removed. I hold the TANK, upside down, with my forearms on my legs, then i shake the tank & ROCK IT left & right at the same time. Keep doing it until your happy. Shake, shake shake, bro.
NOTE: REMOVE the FUEL TANK CAP completely with ALLEN KEY to allow more fluid to leave the tank more easily. If you leave the CAP on, it will get in the way & make the emptying process more messy & slower.
Car Battery, Jumper Leads, Battery Charger, Ph INCREASE, Demineralized Water, Steel Rod, Plastic Bottle Base, WD40, Unleaded Petrol.
Screw Steel Rod into bottom of Plastic Bottle. Connect CHARGER to power point & to battery. Fill tank with Deminerlaized Water. Add Ph-Increase to tank 250grams or more, (the amount doesn’t matter, the size of your battery determines the speed/performance of this process). Place Steel Rod into tank (tape it down if it moves). Connect POSITIVE Jumper Cable to the Steel Rod. Place NEGATIVE Jumper Cable onto the Fuel tank at the Bolt Hole (remove Rubber from bolt hole). I placed a rubber mat under tank for safety & a chopping board to RAISE the HEIGHT of TANK so there’s ROOM for Negative Lead. Place a Cardboard BOX under FRONT of TANK to LIFT IT UP & KEEP TANK LEVEL. Turn ON the Battery CHARGER & look for small bubbles in the Solution – means it working. Let it run for 8+hours. 12 hours or more is better. CHECK IT OFTEN, as batteries can explode & things can get zapped if they mess the cables.
Steel Rod should be normal steel. A.I. told me to use Stainless Steel but i think it’s wrong. It’s NEVER DONE this job so what would it know? A big steel ALLEN KEY is good. If your rod has a THREAD you can make it fit Plastic Bottle tightly. DON’T use Galvanised Steel it will produce POISON GAS.
Charger Leads, Battery Jumper Leads. RED to ROD. BLACK to Tanks BACK.
-----LaserBeam---->
Hi, Nick. You’ve done well. I had same issue. The tanks shape will not allow you to empty the tank completely through the filler hole. I kept FLUSHING with demineralized water, shaking it around, tipping it out & shaking tank up & down. Black pieces of metal were coming out. I didn’t get rid of them all. Tried to get them with a magnet but it’s a pain. Best way to empty tank is to remove the fuel level sender or the fuel pump & the fuel should dump easily. PROBLEM with that is trying to SEAL the tank again so it doesn’t leak. I DIDN’T want to risk it.
After shaking the water & metal bits out i sprayed WD40 inside the fuel tank. Works well. It makes MUCH of the last bit of water come out easier & anti-rusts at the same time. Shake the tank again with the WD40 or CRC then tip out. Repeat this process 4 times or more until the wetness in the tank is mostly WD40 not water. The last step was pouring UNLEADED FUEL into tank & shaking it, draining it & repeating the process until i was happy with the look & smell of the liquid coming out.
KEEP the TANK FULL of PETROL straight after FLUSH process & try to keep it that way always. Or the rust slowly comes back. Some people COAT the inside of tank with Nitrocellulose SURFACE PRIMER but it’s PAINTING & drying the inside of tank & spending more time & money. I didn’t want to. You don’t need to.
I didn’t use deisel fuel to FLUSH the tank, although it may seal surface better. Would need even more unleaded to flush that out. Wasteful.
I DIDN’T DRY the TANK. Just FLUSH with Demin. water, then WD40, then unleaded, is ok. My bike has been running nicely & removing the rust gives peace of mind. The big bits i couldn’t get out are too big to get passed the fuel filter or into my Carbies. I will probably do this process again to get them … one day.
I’ve got lots of photos for you all but the site won’t let me post them. Not even GUIDE to posting pics is working for me. I’ll upload them for you when it works again.
Keep pouring water & WD40 in until you’re happy with the amount of black bits you’ve removed. I hold the TANK, upside down, with my forearms on my legs, then i shake the tank & ROCK IT left & right at the same time. Keep doing it until your happy. Shake, shake shake, bro.
NOTE: REMOVE the FUEL TANK CAP completely with ALLEN KEY to allow more fluid to leave the tank more easily. If you leave the CAP on, it will get in the way & make the emptying process more messy & slower.
-----LaserBeam---->
That is good news. Thank you, Marcel. I almost talked myself out of replacing the swingarm but if they come out easy i can reuse them. Hyosung Factory sold me some but did not post them and no refund yet. They are annyoing to communicate with. I transalted my English to Korean so they could fully understand what i think of their lame service. Will never buy from them again. I’ve been waiting and not riden since Winter – it’s almost Summer here.
-----LaserBeam---->
Sweet, thank you very much, Marcel. Gad you’ve done it. Was anxious but i looked at it this morning. The LEFT 17mm is the Pivot SHAFT & i can get it with a normal socket. The Pivot NUT on the right does need a DEEP SOCKET. It looks like 18mm but if you say 17mm, i believe you. 😆 My chain is OFF; the old one was rusted, stretched & dangerous – it’s in the bin. The new one is cut & ready to roll. I got a newer rear wheel & new tryes to go on. Found a good swingarm before i put the chain/wheel on. Wasn’t looking, just got lucky. It’s pretty rust free but i cleaned & anti rusted it, at the joins & inside mostly.
I am stoked the shock can stay mounted to the frame – i just put that on there, i don’t want to touch it. I’ll get that bottom bolt out of swingarm/shock by removing the footpegs, to make more room. Is that what you do?
Can you recall what is inside the SWINGARM, between the BEARINGS? This new swingarm has ONLY ONE spacer (about 6 inches long) . But the manual has one small SPACER & one SEAL, (Rear Chushion Rod SEAL). The seal looks like another spacer. Hyosung don’t seem to sell the SEAL & i don’t have it in the new swingarm. Looks important. Any ideas where to get one? I’d rather not use the old one.
7. 61251HM8100 SPACER, rear swingarm pivot bearing
8. 09284H32001 SEAL, rear cushion rod
-----LaserBeam---->
Hi Mertyon, you can still get that gasket from Hysoung. I never found Suzuki parts to be cheap but they may be more available to you. This gasket is wearing out on my bike too. I’m glad you mentioned it – i better get me one of those too. 😛
-----LaserBeam---->
Cool, Marcel, i’m glad you’ve done it. I have a scissor lift & a wheel stand – i just did my front forks. Happy to take exhaust off.
-The 17mm PIVOT will a normal socket fit? Or do they have to be really thin walled to fit on the nut?
– Do i need a 17mm socket on both sides of bike? One to loosen nut & one to hold?
– Did you use SOCKETS or RING-SPANNERS for the SHOCK LINKAGES? Not sure if i can get a socket in there?
– I thought i may be able to leave most of the SHOCK connected to the frame. And just undo the linkage & bolts that connect SHOCK to SWINGARM. Is that what you do? Or did you remove the shock from the frame too?
-----LaserBeam---->
Here’s a good guide on battery drains during start-up. It should help a bit: https://motorcycleguidelines.com/motorcycle-battery-drains-while-starting/
If battery is NOT charging when the engine is running for a while, it’s probably the stator coil. Not hard but can be problematic; disconnect battery, drain oil, Unplug stator electrical connector, remove stator cover, buy stator cover gasket if you damage the original & undo 5 screws job. I had issues with the job. Two of the three screws, holding stator coil in, did not come out. Then a mate wrecked the head on them. Bought used stator coil & Cover but it leaked oil. Bought aftermarket Stator Coil & it’s RUBBER GASKET, that holds it’s wires, was too tall & leaked oil like a waterfall. Finally i put my old stator coil & Cover back into the bike – only 1 screw is holding it in & made my own Stator Cover Gaket out of rubber sheet. Spent a bit of money & a lot of time for nothing.
Shop around but ask them to guarentee it works on a hyosung or you want your money back. A used STATOR COIL may be the cheapest option. They last for years, mine is 17 years old. Wrecker or eBay but ask for a VERY LOW PRICE & tell them how little it costs to get NEW parts from china, otherwise they tend to charge too much. A cheap battery charger is a good idea to allow you to charge it, ride it, get it home & repeat. Some are crazy cheap now that will repair also.
Fine adjustment at the CLUTCH lever & a greater adjustment range at the motor. Follow the cable back. You back off the nut & rotate the clutch cable’s threaded bit in or out, to alter the tension. Video guide to CLUTCH Cable adjustment on Hyosung GT650R:
-----LaserBeam---->
After we solve your battery-drain issue better clean that fuel system. Tip the old petrol out so you can rinse the tank with a little bit of gas & a little bit of fuel Cleaner – swirl it around, coat as much of the inside as you can. Wash out the sludge or rust & tip it out. Poor Fuel System Cleaner into the Petrol Tank, along with some fresh high octane gas, (95 or 98 Octane) & new Fuel Filter. Can take out spark plugs & spray a bit of carby-cleaner into the combustion chamber. May help loosen sludge on the piston, the cylinder walls & maybe even the valves. Then it burns more easily & heads out the exhaust, or into the oil, where it belongs. Along with a fuel system cleaner, it’s a cheap & easy way to put some life back into the machine. Run the bike stationary at maybe 5000-6000RPM for a few seconds then let it idle & repeat. The more of that Fuel cleaner you ram in there, the better. Don’t let the bike get too hot though. The battery drain must be a park light stuck on or headlight switch or something similar, i guess but i don’t know. Marcel & the guys here should have some ideas.
LiquiMoly: if their FuelSystemCleaner is as good as their engine oil, i want some.
-----LaserBeam---->
That’s awesome news, that it fired up again after cleaning the kill switch terminals. I found my bike wants the idle screw turned up a bit, to start. Once the bike is warm, it starts revving too high, so i have to turn the idle screw down a bit. I try to set it so that the bike idles at 1400 RPM when warm. If i let it idle at 1500+RPM the bike won’t go into NEUTRAL at the traffic lights – i get annoyed holding the clutch in that long. When the REVS are lower i don’t have gear change issues.
Your battery voltage drop is a bit odd. Does that happen when the bike is just sitting there & not running (ignition OFF)? Or does it only drain when bike is running? Something is drawing power that shouldn’t be or the stator coil is NOT charging? Marcel & the guys here are more knowlegable when it comes to electrical issues. Look at the wiring harness & check for any splits or breaks in the insulation. Any exposed wires? Clean the bikes EARTH for the NEGATIVE side of the battery & check there is nothing else interfering with the current or drawing it elsewhere. I wonder if another switch is faulty & constantly drawing power. i don’t know bro, somone here will have experienced this.
As for the the GEAR SHIFT Assembley, what bit are you having trouble with? They can be annoying. What i do is UNSCREW the ROD, then mount the LEVER & the LINKAGE to the bike. Leave the ROD CONNECTED to ONE LINKAGE & let the other end of the ROD hang free. Then you undo the connected end a little bit (to give some room on the thread for adjustment & tightening). Then screw the disconnected end of the rod into place. As you screw this END IN, the other END will UNDO itself. So you need some room on the trhead to allow that to happen without the rod disconnecting and falling down. If the LEVER or the LINKAGE won’t go ON, you can seperate the parts a bit with a small flathead screwdriver. I RAISED my FOOTPEGS which gives me more ground clearance but i had to buy a LONGER ROD. I got the longer rod from a bike wrrecker and it’s not from a Hyosung but works fine. If you raise pegs and DON’T put in a longer rod, the gearshift lever will sit really high & makes it painful to operate. Note that raising the pegs makes my right heel touch the exhaust pipe, just before the muffler. So i have to be on my toes a bit. Ask Marcel & the guys about the battery drain if they don’t reply here. The good news is you can ride. My bike is sitting there waiting for an O-Ring for the rear hub & it waits for the new chain to go on that. I’ve not ridden for months. I start it every day, which sort of helps me & the bike likes that too. Don’t let the bike sit for too long without starting it. What colour is it btw? Mines Two-tone Silver & Black.
Hyosung Gear Shift Lever, Linkages & Rod:
-----LaserBeam---->
Oh, you’ve got new plugs! Good. Hmm. You can test your coils & plug at the same time. It’s a bit risky. You can get a zap but you can be smart about it, (use WOOD or other ELECRICAL INSULATOR to hold the cap – the longer the better). You remove the spark plug from the bike but keep it in it’s Spark Plug CAP. With the iginition key ON, hold the CAP & move the spark plug close to the frame of the bike or an EARTH. Then press the starter for 2 seconds. If there is NO SPARK jumping from plug to the Earth, then your coils are probably gone. You have new plugs & a battery that seems to have juice … grab some 2nd hand tested coils or an aftermarket set & you should be on your way. 😎
-----LaserBeam---->
Glad it started up and sounded good. That’s a very good sign. New CR8E plugs & new ignition coils is a good idea. Just after market coils will be ok to test what’s going on. You can try filing or sanding the CONTACT SPOT where your existing coils touch the FRAME of the bike. Mine was rustey at those spots so electrical current would not flow well. It’s only 10mm spot on the frame where the coil & the SCREW are. You can clean the existing plugs just for the test. Double check the FUEL LINES from the FUEL PUMP, etc & check the Vaccum hoses – make sure they are FACING the right way.
The bike takes mintues to start when you put the carbies back on the bike. I usually hit the electric starter a few times, then i jump off and ROLL START the bike. Just to save my starter motor a bit. I’d pull the carby off again & spray it with Carby Cleaner. You can get little files that fit into the jets perfectly, to file them clean but you CAN’T clean the carby fully like this. Better to get a carby repair kit at some stage, with new main jets, diaphragms, float seats. etc. These kits can be inexpensive – don’t need Mikuni jets, just an aftermarket kit will help to problem-solve this starting issue. You can start the bike without the airbox & filter for a short period. This will let it have more air while standing still plus you can spray some start-up assist straight into the carbs, while your firing it up. Need the plastic straw to extend your spraycan nozzle. Put rags around so you don’t get the stuff on you cylinders or tank. The paint doesn’t like it.
Cheapest fix is probably to clean the old spark plugs, clean the carbies again with a strong carby cleaner spraycan & keep your old coils but clean their contact point on the bikes FRAME, under the screw. Each coil has 2x screws so you neeed to unscrew 4x screws, lift them up a bit then scratch the rust/paint off the FRAME until you can see metal. I did NOT put anti rust on those spots i just sprayed them with a bit of WD-40. I’ll be removing them again before the rust comes back anyway. Spray a bit of carb cleaner into the spark plug SOCKET too, not much, it’s not good for rubber but get the oil out, you want a good spark from good electrical pathways. May put some HIGH OCTANE FUEL & some Fuel System Cleaner into the tank & swap out the FUEL FILTER. Save up for some coils then ge the fuel filter 😀
-----LaserBeam---->
The Carby model GT Hyosung have a Fuel Pump Relay, too. Part number: 38740HM5401 (for Hyosung GT250 GT250R GT650 GT650R).
Part number: 38610HL7300 is listed for our bike as Turn Signal Relay.
-----LaserBeam---->
Under my pillion seat there is only ONE Relay. Sadly the label has worn off so i can’t read it. There is a 2nd relay HOLDER next to it, but it is empty on my running bike. I’m sure there’s a relay on the side under the rear seat fairing – i didn’t get time to remove that – my pies are ready to eat. Another time bro. I’ll go through the manual see what i can find. I’d like to replace all of them myself. NOTE: Hyosung sold me a 20 Amp fuze but it was a 30 Amp in the bike & the manual. Get a 30 Amp.
RELAY under Pillion Seat & empty relay holder:
Cigarette Lighter/12Volt Power Supply & 2x USB Charge Ports + Voltage Indicator:
(Power Supplied without turning on ignition key)
-----LaserBeam---->
G’day Loyal. Your bike is exactly the same as mine; you legend. Under the rider seat there’s Headlight Relay, Indicator Relay & a 30 Amp Fuze. The relay or 2 under the rear seat or on the side of the frame. idk what they do but i will go take a photo for you.
Part Numbers:
38740HP7600 RELAY, 12V 30A
38610HR9700 RELAY, T/SIGNAL or 38610HL7300 RELAY, T/SIGNAL
The Service Manual are here: https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/download-gt-gtr-125-250-r-comet-service-manual-hyosung-owners-books/
-----LaserBeam---->
the new GV 125 X ? What is your experience..
Hi, Rudi. Welcome. That’s a nice looking bike. First time i’ve heard about it. I think the last Hyosungs sold in Australia were 2018 model GTR & GT650, etc. Anyone know the WEIGHT of that GV125X? Does it come in a 350 or 300? Could be a fun bike. Thanks for showing it. 😉
Here’s links for questions or chat about this bike:
Hyosung Technical Help: https://hyoriders.club/forums/forum/paddock-stand-pit-stop/tutorial-guides-hyosung-parts-help/
General Chat: https://hyoriders.club/forums/forum/%f0%9f%9a%a6-hyoculture/general-hyosung-chat/
-----LaserBeam---->
I’ve got the strong bolts & i did buy nylon lock nuts but they can be a pain to remove. I was thinking about WIRING up the nuts like on race-bikes but it’s a bit time consuming & not quick to remove either. Nylon Lock Nuts it is then. Thank you, Marcel. My bike never had normal washers under it’s normal nuts. When i saw that i freaked out a bit. I fully twist the throttle all the way around and keep it there. I need all this stuff tightened up right so i can survive the ride. 😆
-----LaserBeam---->
G’day CRYSLYNN, the white smoke from your 2012 is probably burned oil. The clanking noise is not good. Have you still got the 2012 bike? Is the oil all black? Burning oil suggests the rings are gone. New pistons with rings & new cylinders may stop the oil being burned. As for the clanking & not firing, i’m guessing there’s something more serious going on. It may be worth taking off the head & cleaning up the valves & checking them out. I would check if the enginge turns MANUALLY. Unscrew the Outer Stator Cover PLUG, put a socket in the hole & turn it Anti-Clockwise (in Neutral gear). If you can’t get the Plug off, you can ROCK the bike gently while IN-GEAR to move the pistons up & down. If the engine is siezed, the BACK WHEEL will LOCK. If the engine turns, the back wheel will move forward a little bit, every time you push it. Don’t force it, just rock the bike forward bit by bit. Hopefully it’s not siezed. Either way, you may be able to repair it. Bikes are generally easier than cars as the parts aren’t heavy. The only pain is the lack of room to get your hands in.
The 2007 sounds ok. I prefer carbys – the EFI bikes seem to be temperamental. You can buy an aftermarket Fuel Cap, Ignition Barrel & Rear Seat Lock, which will come wiht 2x new keys. Removing the ignition barrel is the hardest bit. There’s a special screw (on 1 side i think) that you will need to DRILL OUT probably. I was going to do it but too many other jobs to do first. The FUEL CAP will have to be UNLOCKED before you can REPLACE it with a nice new one. You may need to call a LOCKSMITH out to OPEN that Fuel Cap. Once opened you can undo 3x screws under the lid & pull the whole thing out. He may even MAKE a KEY for YOUR EXISTING Fuel Cap LOCK, so you can keep you iginition barrel & original keys. The aftermarket keys are not identical to hyosung keys (look & feel worse). If the handlebar IGNITION SWITCH is toast & missing wires, take it off. You can get aftermarket or Hyosung switch sets or try a wrecker for a good part. If they wrecked the harness you may get one from a wrecker or Hyosung too. Note: the bike WON’T start in gear & may not start with the STAND DOWN. It won’t tick over. You can cut the wire responsible for this if it annoys you like it does me. Green wire on the CDI box, i think.
If the 2007 bike ticks over a bit, i would try to ROLL-START it. Push the bike with ignition ON, pull in the clutch, drop it into 2nd gear then release the clutch, give it some revs. Sometimes you have to drop it into 1st gear but 2nd is nicer on the bike. If you still have both bikes you are in good shape. You can swap many of the parts to make a good bike. I hope you can fix them both. If you’ve worked on cars you should have no worries replacing pistons, rings & cylinders on the 250. They are tiny pistons & nothing too complicated. The hardest bit is lifting the head off & trying to keep tension on the Cam Chain. If you get someone to hold the chain it’s easy. I popped the camchain back on with a magnet when mine slipped off. Have a look at the VALVES for any damage also, when you take the head off. If you want tips on the process, ive just done it & am about do it again. You can fix that 2007 GT & i reckon with some cash, you can fix that 2012 too. The more Hyosungs out there the better, i reckon. 😆
GT250 Head minus 2x cams & the cam chain:
New Piston, Piston Rings & Gasket into Honed Old Cylinder:
If bike burns oil, your pistons may look like this. Toast … burned toast. Due to deep scratches on the CYLINDER WALLS, from piston contact. Old Oil Seals around the VALVES can also cause oil to be burned in the combustion chamber:
-----LaserBeam---->
Big O-ring, that makes sense. I knew it felt odd; it didn’t lock in like it should. I have a new 250 hub & a new 650 hub & neither have O-rings. They will keep it drier in there & make tighter fit. Sweet, Marcel, nice one. I’ll try source a couple & some Blue Loctite; think i’ve only got red.
Do you guys have washers or Loc Tab Washers under your Hub/Rear Sproket Nuts? My original wheel has NO washers & some bikes don’t. But a 3x loc washers would make me feel better. The holes are 80mm apart. Hysoung sold me some they are 20mm too short.
Cheers, i wanted gold wheels all of my life. I almost just painted them black again, even though i had the gold paint ready. I got nervous but i am sooo glad i did it. Gold & black look excellent.
-----LaserBeam---->
