[How to Tutorial] Clutch Plates Upgrade Replacement for Hyosung GT GV125 GT250R GT125R GV250

Learn how to change Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates on the GV125 / 250 Engines (GT/GV)

🛠 Tools Needed

Optional 19mm socket/spanner for CNC Magnetic Oil Filler Cap

🎁 Parts Replaced

💪 Skill Level = Anyone can do it, but if unsure, speak to a mechanic. (Follow this guide at your own risk)

⚠ Symptoms / Troubleshooting Hints

Always replace your clutch plates when you notice the following:

• Every 5000-6000 miles. Regardless (just like brake pads have a wear limit!)
• When you find yourself adjusting the clutch cable frequently.
• When gears feel notchy or hard to shift.
• When the bike slips during gear changes.
• Does your clutch basket “knock” during idle?
• Does the bike “rumble” when holding the clutch lever in?
• Acceleration is slower than before.
• Clutch seems to “slip” on hard acceleration.

🔧 Let’s fix it….

Technical Inspection (What to look for inside)

• Clutch Plate Thickness Limit = 2.6mm (New ones range from 3-4mm)
• Clutch Spring Free Length Limit = 36.2mm (Normal range 3.8 to 4.6mm)
• Deep grooves on the clutch basket? Time to replace entirely, or file gently if minimal wear.
• Silver clutch metal discs (separators) – 1mm distortion limit.
• Loud rattling sounds? Your clutch plates may be cracked and must be replaced immediately to avoid blocking oil passages.
• Clutch basket center nut must remain tight with its washer intact.

🚦 Let’s begin!!!

Park your bike, get your tools out, and start with the drain pan to drain oil first…

1. Use either 15mm, 17mm, or 19mm socket to drain the oil:
   • A. Clean the oil drain plug.
   • B. Drain all the oil completely.
   • C. Refit the plug.
   • D. Tighten to a maximum of 15 ft.lbs (20 N.M) – torque wrench recommended. If unavailable, tighten until it feels snug.

Ready? Get the new clutch plates and discs out…

Remove the engine cover bolts in the blue circles. Remember where each bolt goes! Some bolts vary in size. 🔥 Be warned: leftover oil will spill out!

When you reach the oil filter rod, carefully remove it:

1. Put two nuts on top of each other.
2. Undo the second nut (the top one acts as a stopper).
3. Continue unscrewing until the rod comes out entirely.

⚠ Note: Mole grips can be used with caution but may scratch the rod.

Don’t lose the O-Rings! There are 2: one for the cap, one inside the oil filter hole. Always replace O-rings & filter during oil or clutch work.

Use a stubby screwdriver to gently loosen the clutch cover, working from the bottom and then top near the oil cooler pipes. Carefully remove the cover.

Remove clutch bolts from top down gradually (25% each), then fully remove. This protects the clutch springs.

• Remove the front clutch hub facia plate and inspect underlying parts.

Inspect parts #10, #16, #17, #13 on the diagram.

Remove clutch plates one by one, remembering the order: First and last plates are always fibre. Steel discs go in between.

Fit back parts in this order: #13 → 17 → 16 → 9 → 10

Re-tighten clutch bolts: Start top 25%, then bottom left & right 25%, then remaining bolts to full torque. Max torque for clutch bolts = 5 ft.lbs (finger tight!).

• Record this event in a log or back of owner’s manual to track mileage and service history

👍 Recommendation: Use high-quality 10W40 or 10W50 JASO MA2 ester oil. Avoid low-quality brands; Motul & Silkolene are best.

🏍 Ride Safe! Any questions? Leave a comment below!