[Tutorial] Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates Replacement How To
Learn how to change Hyosung GV/GT 125 & 250 Clutch Plates on the GV125 / 250 Engines (GT/GV)
đ„ NOTE! – SOAK YOUR CLUTCH PLATES IN OIL FOR 24HRS BEFORE DOING THIS! đ„Â
đ Â Tools needed ::
| Size 8-10 “O-Spanner” | Stubby Flat Screwdriver | Allen Keys (if needed) |
| Oil DrainPan | Size 15/17/19 Sockets | Pliers or MoleGrips |
| Rags | Time | Patience |
Optional 19mm socket/spanner for CNC Magnetic Oil Filler Cap
đParts Replaced ::
| Â Clutch Plates (fibre) | Â Clutch Bearing | Â Steel Clutch Discs |
| Oil (1.5L) JASO MA2 Grade |
Oil Filter & O-Rings |
đȘSkill Level = Anyone can do it, but if unsure, speak to a mechanic. (Take this guide with your risk)
â Symptoms / Troubleshooting Hints …
Always replace your clutch plates when you notice the following:
- every 5000 – 6000 miles. Regardless. (just like “brake pads” have a wear limit!)
- when you see your self adjusting clutch line frequently.
- when gears feel notchy / hard.
- when bike slips up during gear changes.
- Does your “Clutch” basket have any “knocking” feel during idle ?
- Does your bike “rumble” when you hold the clutch lever in?
- not as fast as before (acceleration wise)
- Clutch seems to “slip” on hard acceleration
đ§ Let’s fix it….
Technical Inspection (What to look for inside…)
- Clutch Plate Thickness Limit = 2.6mm  (New ones range from 3-4mm)
- Clutch Spring Free Length Limit = 36.2mm  (Normal range is 3.8 to 4.6mm)
- See any deep grooves on the Clutch Basket?
Time to replace it entirely! – This applies to some bikes after 13-20K miles of their life regardless.
or if the damage is very minimal, gently file it until it’s smooth.
- Silver Clutch Metal Discs (separators) – 1mm distortion limit.
- Loud Rattling Sounds on the clutch cover?
(your clutch plates *may* have cracked in pieces)
(Must replace them ASAP as these things can block oil passages inside or worse!) - Clutch basket center nut must remail tight with its washer intact.
đŠ Let’s begin!!!
Park your bike , get your tools out. Start with the drain pan…. Drain Oil 1st…
- Get either “15mm / 17mm / 19mm” Socket , go under the bike and drain the oil.
A. Clean the Oil Drain Plug
B. Once the oil is 100% drained.
C. Fit the plug back inside.
D. Tighten to a maximum of “15 Foot Pounds” (or 20 N.M) (Torque Wrench Value)
If you don’t have a “Torque” wrench. Then just tighten your nut UNTIL you yourself know when it feels tight enough!
- đ„Â BE WARNED! – THIS IS THE “DRAIN” PLUG
(DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING ELSE UNDER)
- Ready? Get the NEW clutch plates & discs out…
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In the blue circles^, remove the engine cover bolts.
Remember where each bolt goes! – Some of them vary in size.
đ„ Be warned, left over oil will spill out!
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When you reach the oil filter – Be warned, that the rod goes all the way in to the engine.
So the quickest way to remove the rod safely is to:
1. Put 2 nuts on top of each other.
2. Undo the 2nd nut….  (the TOP #1 nut is a “stopper”)
3. Undo the 2nd nut until the rod comes out entirely.
đ„ NOTE – in some cases , a pair of mole grips can undo the stud with some force – but it may scratch the bar!
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Don’t Lose the O-Rings for the filter cover!Â
(there is 1 for the cap & 1 INSIDE the oil filter hole. = 2x rings.) (Ps. Its not blood^ but red oil! đ )
â It is always recommended to replace o-rings & filter “whenever” there is an oil change job or clutch changes.
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Once all the engine clutch cover bolts are removed….
Use a stubby tool like a small screw driver…
1. Go under the bike and tap slightly the “marker” in the blue circle (^LEFT PICTURE)
2. Once the cover splits –Â Go to the TOP of the clutch cover.
3. Near the oil cooler pipes, put the screwdriver or a blunt knife to twitch the cover (towards you)
4. Now, we have some movement…
5. Remove the clutch cover!
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đ„ NOTE! = The “gasket” must be removed and replaced with a new one
(Sometimes old gaskets may tear off!)
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Now your clutch system is exposed.
Get size 8 O-Spanner & take the bolts out…
From top down….
Undo => Top Bolt 25% out => Bottom Left 25% => Bottom Right 25%
We now have 3 bolts undone slightly => now undo the rest 100% (take em out)
Then remove the last 3 bolts – This method protects the clutch springs.
- Remove: front clutch hub facia plate cover and investigate the parts below (just inspect them)
Take out your plates one-by-one … this is very important…
Remember the ORDER of each plate
âŒHint: The last plate is always “Fibre” & the FIRST plate is always “Fibre”
âŒHint: STEEL DISCS (Seperators) go in between.
Done?
â Use the SAME ORDER to fit your new plates! Or use the diagram below…
Then fit back the other parts in the diagram above^
These numbers are the parts in diagram above^ #13 => 17 => 16 => 9 => 10
This is the ORDER of fitting them….
It’s time to tighten it!
Remember start from the TOP 25% screwed in => then bottom left & right 25% each respectively => Then maximum (100%) on the remaining 2 => The first x3 bolts , 100% also.
This method is to apply equal pressure everywhere to protect the clutch springs.  Hyosung books also mention the criss-cross star style of fastening bolts.
đ„NOTE =Â A CLUTCH BOLT IS HIGHLY SENSITIVEÂ TO OVER TIGHTENING.
ALL CLUTCH BOLTS => MAX TORQUE 5 FT LBSÂ (FINGER TIGHT!)
A torque wrench really helps!
or else Tighten with 2 fingers (and that’s tight enough)
Last not, least – Close the clutch cover. Top up your bike with oil. Â
Remember these points below…
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- Record this event in a book somewhere or back of owners manual – This creates a log of your work & record mileage
đ Recommendation = Make sure your oil is marked 10w40/10w50 JASO MA2 ESTER – Nothing upsets these v twins than running junk overhyped (yes, over-hyped) castrol oil , (Many small parts in a hot small v twin!)- That tells you all you need to know – Good oil is a MUST. Motul & Silkolene are best.
đ Ride Safe! Any questions hit the comments below!