Description
This factory-sourced front engine gear plate is a small but absolutely critical hardware component inside your bike’s final drive assembly line. It sits tightly behind the main spindle gear and your center shaft threads, acting as a physical fold-down block that stops the main locking nut from turning loose while you spin the rear wheel. The slow maintenance reality is that these thin safety rings lose their tension strength once you bend the ears over. Reusing an old metal washer leaves your front gear loose, which quickly destroys your chain links, eats your engine casing alloy, and creates highly dangerous locking hazards. Swapping in a fresh Hyosung GV125S sprocket washer guarantees original metal thickness. It ensures your rear wheel assembly stays completely locked down on local roads.
💎 TRANSMISSION HARDWARE HYOSUNG GV125S SPROCKET WASHER SPECIFICATIONS
| Safety Fold-TabMalleable steel flaps designed to bend flat against the nut sides to stop rotation. | Perfect Factory FitmentAuthentic build metal that matches original density limits better than loose aftermarket rings. |
| Protects Shaft SplinesPrevents the spinning front gear from wobbling back and forth and wearing down your output shaft. | Essential Service SwapA cheap yet critical replacement part to drop in every single time you clean or update your chain. |
📜 Confirmed Fitment Guide (From 2019+ Onwards)
Fuel Injected Bobber Group: Center splines are sized exclusively to match the modern liquid-cooled 125cc injection motor lines noted below.
- Hyosung GV125S Aquila Bobber EFi: Fits all standard injection models built from 2019+ onwards
This genuine component drops straight into your engine transmission lines to replace original part code string: 09167H20002JS.
🔧 Install Tips
- Scrub Your Output Shaft Threads: Use a small brass brush to completely clean the center hub splines and engine output shaft threads before sliding your new metal washer into place. Ensure all old threadlock paste or grit is fully removed.
- Follow Tightness Settings: Always use a proper hand-operated torque wrench to tighten your central output nut. Work down to the exact original manufacturer tightness specifications. Under-tightening creates a massive road hazard, while over-tightening can easily snap the steel shaft end off.
- Hammer the Lock Tab Flat: Once the nut is tight, take a flat drift or blunt chisel tool along with a small hammer to physically fold one of the washer’s outer wings flat against the hex side face of the nut to block it from turning.
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