♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
hi! Im having some trouble with the pick up coil values, can anyone give me the correctamente values or the service manual. (Aquila 650 2005)
Normal range is 100-140 ohms max when the bike is ice cold (this is because heat rises ohms / resistance up)
120/60 is OK (70 is only for 110 size) because speedo is at the forks. So use 120/60
160/60 is the maximum safe limit for the rear, so it is allowed 🙂 – Do not use 170/180+ as those people are idiots.
Well the bike went back on the road and was used for a year then passed on to a friend, no parts required now.
That’s great, good on you for keeping it alive 🙂 Hope the friend stays in the club! Take it easy out there this summer.
As per simon, start easy by investigating ignition parts.
But i would recommend removing carbs and please do not panic, follow these 2 guides below and TAKE YOUR TIME 🙂 , Rubber Intake pipes are very difficult to get now, so look after yours well.
Send me an email below (I have loads on my ebay page)
here is a fun fact.
In 1999 – 2002 Hyosung “did” actually use electric pumps on their GV250 Aquila Carb models , which looks 100% like this one and they use a “special 1999-2001” bike harness to include the pump and the CDI would know about it too. Very very rare now, why ? = They discovered, stators would last longer and owners would have less maintenance jobs on the bikes if they contract Mikuni Japan to make them a vacuum pump.
This is when they started making intake pipes updated with vacuum holes for pump. Old rare models did not have vacuum holes to feed pipes to vacuum pump.
Nowadays, the Taiwanese seem to do these pumps for old scooters and their quality is not good. So if you find a pump like this, or similar, it will be made in Taiwan or China , (big problems later)
You want a vacuum pump to guarantee that you will not be stranded many miles away from home. In my years of riding Hyos , i’ve never had a rear pump fail on me.
Just the tank “TAP” is a common replacement item. (for good reason, bad taps cause engine hydrolocking , jammed carbs , seized motors.) so always make sure one every 2-3 months , remove the tank tap pipe and confirm it is not dripping fuel when engine is OFF and tap is OFF setting. Saves you in the long run!
I think the Korean’s did a very good job with Mukuni Japan to make a “custom DF series” pump for Hyosungs.
The GV250 uses the same pump as a GV650 carby = it means the GV250 will not be able to max it out. The vacuum pump is poweful enough to run a 650cc already.
If it has problems, you can replace it (but they rarely fail except bad debris from fuel , crap fuel (e10) , or just simply very old age kicking in)
An electric pump would put more strain on the stator unit and the regulator because the regulator sits “under the seat” , it does not get enough air cooling , compared to a GV650/GT650 to cool down the regulator.
The “floats” for the carb can’t handle anymore extra psi , henceforward the “vacuum pump” works in “pulse fasion” , it pumps more as the carbs demand more.
For “simplicity” and efficiency , i would recommend less electronics on a carb bike , after all the stator it uses has less watts than an EFi model and it also has less poles than an EFi model.
The EFi models use electric pumps but they have updated stators to handle it and a 30A relay dedicated for a pump, it is resource hungry.
Tried your last. No result unfortunately
i have a feeling it’s time to get a new harness and ECU at this rate.
Otherwise , can you confirm please
– If the bike ignition plug is removed it still runs?
– if the starter motor is disconnect , it still runs?
– If you remove the HT caps ? what happens ?Sorry to ask these 3 , if you could give me 3 answers , it helps be sure what the actual cause is because it’s not a carb bike (easy to diagnose) but an EFi model, so we have more electronics to be careful with that’s all .
How is preload adjusted? Thanks again. Paul
Usually shortcuts are taken by adding very strong spacers on the springs , like some of the suzuki owners do (as some Suzukis do have KYB forks like Hyosung does but ofcourse Hyosung likes to be different design wise to avoid copyrights i guess)
How about this ….
Start the bike again , and turn key off
Then quickly go to the starter motor and disconnect its wireLet us know if that helped?
Also quickly unhook the fuse box and ignition barrel so there is no power in the harness…
The ST7 enjoying Welsh sunshine, and proving to be a hen magnet.We know the ST7 is the better chick in the garden , that right bird can fly off that tarmac indeed 😉
Nice scenery! 😀
Do not worry i will watch this topic all day today
If the bike keeps running when ignition is off , do you get
- any lights on dash?
- rpm gauge moving?
- can you use headlights and indicators?
I want to ask these so i can break down what it actually could be
Welcome, it is good to have you. Hope the summer is treating you well, speaking of good outdoors, do share some pictures of your ride , if you’re out!
Usually the fork is 50% preloaded or 60% , that is if its all the way zero and all the way full (excercise trail and error here) , or for example if it takes 10 full turns, assume 6 turns is the sweet spot , complimented with 15w fork oil but 10w is OK. Korea tends to put the soft 5w which is too thin over here in UK with our winding roads lol.
If you take apart the fork assembly and inspect anything that’s causing the screw to go in a continous loop or you may have to rebuild/replace the faulty fork part.
If you have a GT250R that is carb model , it uses 2 relays
- lights control = 4pin. By the battery
- turn signals = 3 pin. by the battery too.
For starting the bike , it will be a “golfball” shaped Solenoid that has 1x thick battery wire going straight to it. and a 2pin plug from the harness (CDI and switch gear triggers it) and other side of the solenoid, has a long wire going to the starter motor.
Hey welcome aboard, I hope you can share what you learned and if you need help , just ask away in this forum,
Usually i’ve been told my answers and Simon’s have helped many lurkers in the forum too!
Well done!
Sounds like you could do a mini wiki topic on this forum to help other GV-S owners with your experiences (ie. If you have a GV125-S , dos & donts ) somewhere along those lines.
Well done!
Get ACF50 though, and put a little drop of that stuff in every single connector you can find, it will thank you!
Yes, but i wouldn’t really recommend bypassing the clutch handlebar switch. I’ve experienced myself a few times where the bike says it is “neutral” but as soon as i press start , the bike kicks forward and falls down , causing me a visual expensive and damaged bars lol.
Side-Stand ? Yes bypass it.
