♠️ M77
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Hi,
Its not giving me a error message and in text mode it shows the picture text and in visual it dont show anything
I understand now, it is was because the picture was in a .heic format, perharps your PC or Phone should have an app to convert images to .jpg , jpeg, png as this site supports so it shows on any device on the world that reads this site.
Sorry for the run around, it is because .heic isn’t widely popular yet on the web.
Sounds like these should immediately resolve the issues for good (and it is common, even with other brands)
- Carbs = Take them off.
Verify they are Size 20 Pilots
Verify Main Jets are correct.
See tutorial below
https://hyoriders.club/forums/forum/paddock-stand-pit-stop/hyosung-tutorials-guides-diagrams/ - Check the fuel pipes are not old or replace them. Use the link above for fuel diagrams.
- Replace or clean the fuel tap under the tank.
- Open the FUEL pump that is on the frame and use carb cleaner to clean gently
Next up, since the carb is apart , do the following
- Do the “Slide Mod” tutorial (recommended)
- Get the carbs involved in an ultrasonic cleaning process, it really really pays off.
Fuel = Try to use E5 grade fuel. if you have fuel that is E10 grade, you will have problems because there is nothing positive about using E10 grade fuel that some pumps wan’t to introduce , your country may have it under a different name but we call it E5 and E10 here in UK.
What kind of errors do you get on the site ?
It should work, as below i just put a test picture using the “Add Media” button on the reply box
I would not use IX plugs because Hyosung’s hate them. The best plugs for them are normal CR8E or “LASER” type spark plugs.
The reason why you are also conking out on higher gear / higher revs is because the fuel tap is on it’s way out.
I would replace the pump also if it acts suspicious but 10000000% replace the tap.
Wonderful guide. You explained it well!
I bet next time for you it will be piss easy haha.
The rubber will fit OK.
And no need for injection hole on the rear , if the front rubber pipe has injection hole for the rear fuel pump.
You are lucky to even still acquire rubbers because they are already difficult to get haha
Might go as what you recommend sir, Since the slip say the original color of the bike is black
Before I send you an email sir, lets us gather any bearings involve on the bike This is as far as I know: * Steering stem * Swingarm * Linkage * Wheels * Sprocket hub Anything that I’m missing sir?Nope, looks good.
Send us the email 🙂If possible please, can you ride to any bike shop or car shop. Tell them exactly this (takes 10mins while you are stood there)
- Make sure engine is warm (if owner has arrived, you may test right away)
- Remove both front and rear spark plugs
- Get a compression tester Gauge and use a “STRAIGHT METAL PIPE” end (as flexi hose will be inaccurate, no buts)
- Hold the throttle on FULL OPEN position (FULL Throttle)
- Crank the bike for 5 seconds max.
- Record compression of the rear cylinder.
- Repeat for front cylinder head.
- Fit everything back & return customer bike
Come back to this forum and tell us how much compression bike has.
Keep in mind
this assumes the “Solenoid” is new and healthy or it will spin the starter motor slow, giving false readings
this assumes the “starter motor” is replaced , if it has issues of spinning slow all the time (it must crank fast)
this assumes the “battery is charged”
If in doubt, please ask bike shop or halfords for a free battery life test (not volts, but it’s cranking power) using their “YUASA LOAD GAUGE PROBE”
Keep us posted!
As you are in Wakefield, are you able to go to Startrights Motorcycles and tell them “marcel said i should ask for Comet SLIM Fork Seals” , the guy (shop owner) will literally go out of his way to get the seals or even fit them while you hand over the forks to them. They stock so many seals , believe me they have them im sure.
Due to the bike having a small stator unit, have you considered the heated grips may draw more than the stator can cope and the regulator ?
The 25 / 650 bikes are OK to handle this, but it’s something i’d mention since , being an EFi 125cc, it already is way more taxed in electric power than a carb 125 would be. (EFi system mean’t for a 250cc , was shoved in to 125cc to please Euro 4-5 laws , crazy i know.The battery won’t be too much of an issue once the bike runs as it will running off the stator for the most part.
Next up, it sounds long and silly, by any chance you taken the bike apart , get contact cleaner, and clean every single plug you can find (lest sometimes signals are just not strong enough for the whole electric system to feed off the harness before it cranks the bike.
Use acf50 inside every plug also, it really helps a million miles away.
Now if you also press start , do you even hear any “click” sounds coming from the solenoid ?
If the display doesn’t turn on , does the rest of the bike turn on ? like indicators , lights, horn etc.. ?
If the bike doesn’t eventually crank, does it crank fast or slow ?
It’s a lot i am asking but it does help my brain narrow things down the more you tell us 🙂
Also sounds silly, if it is 2023 model, it should be covered in warranty to replace anything it requires by the dealer you got it from as the electric issues may not be your fault (but if they see grips , they may void it) ?
A purple frame will look nice 😉 with all black plastics .
I will warn though, certain bearings cost a stupid amount here in UK but i can get them if you want all the bearings related to the swingarm.
Can you send me an email please with your address if you want me to do any shipping quotes for you below
Swing Arm, has multiple places for bearings, can you confirm which bearings in the rear swing arm are needed? see below
- PIVOT AREA (where swingarm joins frame)
- LINKAGE DOGS (where shock joins the dog bones at the bottom of swing arm)
Steering Yoke, see below
- Both Trianlge shape bearings ? Or just top or lower ?
If it helps, pictures are welcome and i will dig for you
It sounds stupid , but is there any chance you can get a compression tester and use the “METAL ROD” not the flexi hose.
And crank the bike for 5 seconds with both spark plugs out and full throttle.
Check what PSI each engine head makes ? on a cold state.
i’ve replied to your other topic. (link below)
So i will lock this one
I would take the plastics off.
Now do this carefully and follow me, trust me…
- Peel the wire JACKET that hides the little pasta wires going to the dash,.
(The dash has a “mini” harness) that joins “DASH” —> mini harness —-> Main bike harness - Peel it, you will find the issue is the “red wire” has broken somewhere.
- If issue persists, peel the “KOREA TAPE” that’s on the “MAIN FRAME HARNESS” , and find the red wire or check the “blue plugs” do not have damaged or rusted pins.
Don’t forget to let us know if it was the case , i have a big suspicion it is. And i know red powers the LCD glass.
Black/white stripe wire is usually ground.
Don’t forget to get something like “MANNOL HARNESS TAPE” , and re-wrap the pasta strings back and waterproof it well 😉
If i did not make sense of anything, please ask me to repeat in a different way 🙂
Keep us posted!
Ahh vacuum tap, that’s good.
Here is a tutorial below:How to upgrade Fuel Lines & Filter on Hyosung GT125R GT250R (Carb Hose Diagram)
No circuit breaks in the wires to do with
- Clutch Handlerbar Lever
- Side Stand Switch (even if bypassed, the wires may have corroded?)
Sent you a PM , have a look, sorry i didnt post every book on this forum for the -S- models as it’s a very very new bike on here in UK (Not all dealers even have it yet!). But i got you!
(Hyosung want’s to make sure people obey the 2/5yr warranty before any bikes get sent back for any serious issues)If you bought it used, you can ignore the need for warranty as it may have expired with the ex-owner.
YUASA YTX14BS – It is the factory size and the battery try is designed to accomadate it.
before fitting a new battery , make sure regulator is 14v at idle and 14.6v max at 5,000 rpm and test your stator output too. A good charge system will see your battery even pushing a good 3yr life span. Instead of changing it every 6 months on a bad charge system. Just have a look, incase previous owners did something foolish.
Don’t buy lithiums (no matter what they tell ya) , if in doubt , trust korea’s own manuals when they say use the typical maintenance-free AGM battery
If you can’t get YUASA, try VARTA or UNIBATT, as those are good brands. Not to sure on everyone else as some batteries use really cheap parts inside / cells even if the battery has a flashy logo.
- Carbs = Take them off.
