♠️ M77
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I did put fresh fuel, but didn’t open carburetor to clean it as I don’t know how. I saw there was a tutorial on gt250r, is it the same process?
It is similar but you have to make sure you take pictures of where all the pipes go so you don’t forget 🙂
Yeah like he said above ^
Did you clean the carbs and put fresh fuel in the tank ?
After a year, that fuel will be very old and carbs will need some heavy cleaning
Can you do what Simon says?
My BIG BIG suspicion is that you will need to replace
– Stator (not made anymore) so get upgrade kit (we are the only shop for it)
– clutch switch (please) (yes replace it but do NOT bypass it!)
– go to your Kickstand. Cut the switch. And bypass it. (Join wires) and waterproof it. We have “bypassed” kickstand switch.
This kick stand switch is very annoying for 99% of hyo riders 😡😠😤
We do not ever sell it. It belongs in the bin lol. Go bypass that switch.
– new regulator. Upgrade it. Do NOT buy Chinese ones. They go on fire!
New stator means new regulator. Do not mix old and new stators / regulators because you will have problems again. Your old stator could be dying because old regulator is killing it. So need to replace both of them
– Battery. Yes. Replace it again. With new stator kit and new regulator. Only use YUASA YTX 14BS (GENUINE) from garage. Online batteries can be old-new stock or fake yuasa. Becareful shopping. Do NOT buy uncommon brands. I trust these brands YUASA , VARTA (German) , UNIBATT (used on MotoGP bikes)
Questions for you in regards to electrics:
– Did you test coils? Are they changed?
(Coils are common fault if spark plug can is bad causing shorting / damaged sparks out of HT wire then coil is damaged)
– do you still have OEM caps?
(If yes, replace them with NGK caps)
(Rubber NGK caps only as plastic ones will crack like the OEM ones)
– What spark plugs do you have? (CR8E? Or did they change your plugs to different ones?)
– Can we see the plugs(?) (Checking fuel mixture on the plugs , heat damage on threads , etc so pictures will help)
Again… Do what Simon said before following me.
It could just be simple things they overlooked like rusty contacts need cleaning and love
Do you have a locksmith. It is best to bring it to an automotive locksmith who can help.
If the key is bent. Get another duplicate done by him.
Then spray ACF50 or WD40 or CARB CLEANER (recommended) inside the HOLE of the key cap.
So that the fluids make their around the locking mechanisms of the fuel cap and free it up a little. Spray again inside.
Hopefully it should work? Let us know
IMO i never saw the need for a 650 swinger. I have the 250 on fleebay for cheaps and go dip that thang with new bearings and thick paint. You good to go! Plus if you want bobbins we have you covered lol
The 650 rim is wider as the 650 comes with factory 160/60 tyre. The sprocket drum of the 650 wants the 650 rim. I found out the hard way when i was doing a GS500 conversion to a 250 chassis for a customer but id rather not go there as the gs lump in to our frame is more hassle than fun lol.
Hey i say why nor but ready to work with it until everything lines up 100% straight
Dare I ask ? What would be your personal advantages of using the 650 swingarm over your 250 one ?
If you use the rear 650 rim , 650 drum, it will cause your chain to bend side ways instead of being straight – The 650 uses 160/60 tyre and 525 chain
However your 250 rim allows 160/60 max – I would not go beyond this on the GT250 as the Ninjas of the same CC or ADV bikes use 130/140 rear tyre – Hyosung already gave us huge tyres in 150/70 lol
You are correct the spindles for the swing arm are for 650 frames only – The swing arm will get in the frame with some possible need of shims or spaces
The critical thing is making sure the shock is straight and not swayed left or right (lest it bursts when it goes up & down improperly)
Also chain is a critical thing , so for this reason we don’t use the 650 drums or rims = we leave that for the 650 engine and its chassis.
I hope i made sense 🤐
I won’t lie the twin clocks on the pre-650/early 250 era just look good! 😍
Well done on the hack sir , well done. How is it going so far (i saw you said they work, but has the fuel gone down next time you rode it ?)
You should defo make a tutorial of this , I know someone will be thank ful for your talents and hacks if they ever see your threads
Those they preserve Hyosungs on the road i respect more , than some kid who bins it/scraps it over small issues lol
The 650 is an even smaller club in the UK , i will do some more topics soon just so i don’t ignore them.
The GV650 carby doesn’t have a rev gauge , so i will find a way to nicely retrofit a GT gauge on to it. Then make a topic about it. Why the early 650 GV Cruisers didn’t have a rev gauge to start with surprises me but i digress!
Hi Marcel To be honest the threads on the plug being wet may be due to the fact the sparkplug wasn’t tight when I swapped them out earlier today. I’ll post pics.of the new plugs once my clamps and carb screws arrive as I’ll have to strip her back down then anyway.
That’s fine fella, keep us posted.
Least she is responding better in meantime , also check your fuel lines aren’t kinked or anything as it is essential for the initial pickup. High revs tend to force more fuel out of narrow lines that are kinked , hence it hasn’t broken down yet but i am only “assuming” since you said it misses at certain revs.
Speaking of “flat spot” , Go to “Tutorials” section of this forum and click “Slide Mod” , it will thank you for it too.
BUT “make sure” it gets a compression test done (search “compression test”) on this forum search box , for old topics as i mentioned how to do it on someone else’s thread.
Also , after doing the slide mod , check the plugs again, clean them hard (Acetone is fine, or carb cleaner or brake cleaner and use a gentle spark plug brush from halfords) ==> Ride again and then give us the final plug pics so we can advise where you are and tell us also if the slide mod made it worse or better, the engine will tell you its mood as you ride.
So there was a guy who did a swap to an aftermarket digital dash with success. The only problem I see with it is you will no longer get any fault codes.
That’s also another bummer for us EFi owners as they make majority of existing Hyosungs now
Good shout there!
What is the experience like in the rainy days ? Like does the bike:
- Twitch / fish tail if you try to lean a little ?
- Grip confidence ?
- If you tap the rear brake in rain , does it fish tail ? (i mean like a slight tap)
Tread pattern on that pic looks like it can displace a fair amount of water to be fair – I wonder how much “silica” is on the compoud for wet confidence vs the likes Michelins & Bridgestones – I have never tried Dunlops personally , always been a michelin guy since the Pilots came out haha
Front Plug is oily on the threads , i would be looking to check:
- Have the valve stem seals ever been changed ? *(if the valve seal is worn out, it could drip oil in the combustion chamber during revving up = bit of smoke puff on exhaust, it would smell a bit oily, but its a faint hint!) * Check history of that engine if the valves ever got service at all.
Try this bottle “ONLY!” (ignore everything else!)
As it states it is safe for “carbs” and “motorcycles” , Wynns is a trusted brand
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/fuel-and-oil-additives/wynns-lead-substitute-with-fuel-stabiliser-118855.htmlFollow instructions on the box, then generally ride with a half tank of E5 with that product (mix the correct amount! = As half a tank is about 8L ish of E5 fuel) - Check oil level , every 20-50 miles and see if its going down
- Check oil level as above ^ but check if its getting dark & darker quickly (if it was having oil change today)
- Use strictly Motul 7100 – most recommended oil for the 125 Hyosungs and its a high heat oil due to fact our 125s have small oil coolers
- Invest in a Gt250 EFi oil cooler. It will thank you a lot. Do not bother getting chinese coolers , you want the oil pump happy. I’d trust Korea on their coolers this time!
If i am wrong ? Is that wet plug “FUEL” ? — If its wet fuel , then ignore what i said above ^
If it is WET FUEL
- Service the carb and yes check your floats
- Replace the floats , float seats , float needles – So the bike isn’t jamming (while riding) or flooding the cylinder (while riding or overnight standing as it drips out of the carb in to the manifolds then piston chambers)
- Open the “OIL FILLER” cap –> Sniff hard for fuel , if there is fuel smell that is strong , don’t ride it and change the oil.
- Replace the filter , i would mandate this tbh.
While riding === I need to ask?
- Do you hear “popping sounds” in the airbox as you rev up while riding ?
- Does it pull back hard, then slingshot forward ?
- Or does it bog down while riding as revs go up , but only “smooth ride” is during very low speeds ?
I want to ask more but let’s address the top first so we build a proper picture
Let us know everything I just said.
PS. Glad the caps work for you , that’s why we all use them 😉 – Gotta love NGK caps!
Hi mate, I’m using the twin dial clocks but the 250 clocks are different to the aquilia mate the fuel gauges are a totally different shape I’d have to send you pics when I’m home at the weekend to explain it properly, I have some 125 clocks and the fuel gauge is different. I’ll send you some pics at the weekend to explain properly. Cheers
You might have the early rare pre-650 version without the “temp gauge” on 650 ones but 250 ones have no temp gauges so put fuel gauge in the middle spot , i see what Korea did there and change the wiring loom too!
Hmm i suppose , it might be possible to resolder something up when you take from a 125 in to a 250 dash casing! 😬☠
Hmmm, this is a difficult object to buy at present
But….. why not get the GV125 Aquila Gauges we have (though i can’t guarantee the fuel gauges work) but they did move when testing the bikes. = You can use the GV Dash to rob bits from
This is assuming ofcourse you still are using the “Twin Dial” clocks rather than the “All-Digital” versions that came later for EFi 250s anyway.
We got your email for parts; but welcome!
You said it. Aquila is pretty & robust.
You could slowly learn to fix her and rebuild her nicely and you become a good hyosung mechanic for your self
Hey your hands are “cost-free” labour and we have manuals all over the place online now 😉
Half of our members on this site have Aquilas. I own GVs too. I find them more comfy than GTR for everyday usage (GTR is just a summer toy now lol)
Try 10w60 oil.
15w or 20w is too thick for cold starts and our hyosungs have crazy amount of bearings in the motor than a 650😬
At the moment there is no direct replacement for it due to:
- Hyosung’s wiring is set up for the OEM dash which even has the speed reading , temp reading and fuel level
- The plastic cover that surrounds the fairings and dashboard was designed for it
So you will be forced to do some custom wiring work and maybe use the old plastic cowling to make a new fibreglass version for whatever new dash we use
The uiversal digital ones have few issues that they most likely used
- Inaccurate sensor readings (if your bike is hotter and the dash says its cool, you may get false readings without knowing the engine is overheating)
- Messy electronic wiring work, so you would need to be a wizard but it is possible
- It doesn’t last long (China made 99% of them)
- Not “true” waterproof (it might stop some rain, but water eventually finds its way in to them 😢)
If you really want a “high quality” unit , go to KOSO USA here https://kosonorthamerica.com/
Email them for your nearest dealer that’s selling them.Avoid “koso” stuff on ebay as they can be fakes most of them, the chinese copy too much.
Wiring = There should be a service manual in the forums (Books section) and study the wiring diagram of the 650 carby GTR models = Ignore Naked & GV as they use different harnesses.
Remember, there is no guarantee the KOSO unit will be as accurate as the Korea unit but excercise caution if there is no way to calibrate the dash unit, but ask KOSO first.
Welcome! Nice looking ride!
Check your REAR WHEEL CHAIN = yes if it is tight or too loose it will make shifting harder.
Use Motul 7100 oil. Hyosungs really love this oil. I tried many brands but Motul 7100 always gave me the smoothest gearbox experience and also Motul 300v (but cost more haha)
Then re adjust your clutch using guide below
How to adjust clutch cable – Hyosung GV125C GT125R GT250 GV250
Hey for fuel diagrams and vacuum lines is in the Tutorials section below 😉
Welcome back lol
Good lord!☠😬 How long has that bike been sitting unused for ?
Im amazed the rodents didn’t chew the wires and die of the shocks ,
If the bike runs today, i guess you can celebrate! – Rarely do we see that in UK and the bike is alive , usually its a full rebuild as soon as its found in some old barn years later! 😯😱😲
