♠️ M77
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Right, bare with me , as this is unique so let’s butt heads on this one shall we?
If your bike was a carb model (or EFi even) , commonly the sounds of the bike chugging, coughing, then dying right away points to usually:
- HT Caps (Heat is their enemy) and it is an outsourced cheap part, so we use NGK instead.
- Coils (it is not uncommon, but it does happen actually as the bike heats up)
EFi model only (your bike) ….extra parts for consideration/investigation
- TPS Sensor (Throttle position) , sounding like the bike was struggling to find an idle spot.
If you’re adamant to try replace the TPS, send us a picture of it (email us). We will order one for you (Not all Hyos use the same TPS sensor, Hyosung changes them) - Fuel Pump Wanning = But , i don’t think it’s the actual pump as the ECU would not start or let alone injectors dry run themselves.
It could be the “RELAYS” on the bike (Send us a picture and we may replace them for you) , other relays may be involved in the other places like injectors/lambda sensor - Lambda Sensor ? (on the exhaust pipe) – I doubt it, but if you’re not sure, you can carefully unscrew it and clean it , put it back in and see what happens.
If not, send us an email with a picture of the sensor (it has numbers written on it, code names and the plug) (Hyosung changes plugs)
Hell even the GV125 EFi has had more than 1 ECU change and more than 1 harness changes (so terminal plugs and sensors may change) - ET Sensor (Engine Temperature Sensor) – This was common on the bigger EFi GV bikes but i believed they fixed it on later updates….however…look for a sensor that is on the engine cylinder itself to read temperature , if it is not present on yours , it may just be reading temperature near radiator (water temp instead)
The old GV250 models have temp sensors on the front cylinder head (which was reading basically how hot the oil was getting as it was oil cooled with oil flowing around the cylinders anyway) – Just a thought! - Take a picture of your plugs and show us ? (Just to observe how dark the threads are and if the center of the plug is at the right colour or not)
Plugs can leave a small “trail” of hints as to what’s going on inside the cylinder. , we might even know which cylinder is cutting/dropping the most.
Update us fella. Sorry for delay. Had my own day in the workshop fixing a customer GV125 too! – It runs now thankfully but carb model.
I will make video tomorrow.
Sounds good, as that’s odd.
Well damn! I hope it gets sorted out. A new tensioner is always a good call! – Also new cam chains if they have worn down that much considering the mileage , it is almost time to rebuild the bike little by little.
Welcome to the forum, be sure to post a picture of it 😉
Carbs = 2.5 full turns out on each pot and leave them there forever , it lets you focus on other areas on the carb to fine tune it well 🙂 (also compression on the cylinder pistons or valves is very crucial )
Or watch for the rubber valve seals may drop the odd oil in to the pistons and making the spark plugs extra sooty or oily , so look at your spark plugs
You got this!
Hey,
The video was posted by a member on our forum here, anyway, can you post your own video ? Also tell us any mods ? service history ? parts replaced ? total miles it has done (4,000 miles you said and no more since then?) ?
In the meantime, take a look at this topic below and tell us if it fits your situation without us repeating it ? as it turned out for the guy below, it was his ISCV unit.
Also, here is this topic which contained your similar situation (Correct us if we are wrong). (could be ECU being fried by coils or stator or regulator as the guy confirms below)
She sounds good! 1,800 rpm max idle is perfect. 2.5K rpm is too much. 1500 rpm is OEM.
Check the wiring harness from dashboard to the main bike frame and also make sure plugs do not have rust or broken pins
Ok mate cheers,
- That’s an option. I’ve just got mine off and took it apart and the o ring and seal look ok so I think I might be able to save it with a good ultrasonic cleaning and rebuild. They do sell them in the states still but the postage is more than the petcock 🤣 think refurbishment is the key here
That’s a good call, if you could save your old one, you save pennies too!
Battery = Tell us ,
- Age
- Brand & Code name printed on it
- Voltage produced with standard regulator when running before fitting a new one
Go to halfords or any bike shop ==> Ask them to use a Load Analyser Meter to take a deep dive on your battery. If its good the meter will flash and say “Battery Healthy” or ” Battery Needs Replacing ” (means cells inside are bad or discharging too fast which might annoy the stator and reg)
Hey,
Use this image below which comes from the actual service manual to test the stator unit first.
Click on the images , they should enlarge themselves.
NOTE , the stator unit does not NEED to be removed from , these are my pictures i used to help a customer in the past, so i could your topic today to link these pictures for future reference , i just had them laying around until i eventually made a proper tutorial (although, the same instructions can be find in the GT650 manuals section actually in this forum and follow the stator testing) Because Korea uses the same readings for 125 and 650 as well as 250 carb models. (EFi is different a depending on year sometimes)
So…..
Tell us what the image says above ^ and post us your readings on here.
If the pictures are confusing let us know? (I’ll edit your topic title so i find it easier to link it next time someone asks this question) they can join this thread.
Sounds silly from me but is there any chance also the “Choke” is still active ? = More revs usually means bike is being feed extra fuel or air from somewhere even if you disconnect throttle cable.
PS: Is hyosungwholesale.com legit? They’ve got lots of new oem stuff…
This is a known scam site. I would avoid it, if any website has “blue and white background” , they are scammers.
Hi. I’ve been in a low-speed crash a week ago on my hyo and almost everything on the right side is damaged. I’ve ordered used parts and they’ll arrive next week. Replacing the footpegs and the big right fairing seems easy, but my question is should I watch out for anything when disassembling and reinstalling the right handlebar and upper front fairing? Maybe there are some tricks I can use to make my job easier? Any help will be appreciated
Are you doing this or letting your mechanic it do it for you ? Since last time they serviced your bike ?
I would say do 1 small part at a time, this gives you time to learn how everything fits and how to put them back with replacements.Also try to upload pictures on here , if you are stuck on something because it will be easier to explain
Yes the tank has 2 pipes coming out of it , next to each other literally, block one of them.
And get something like this: (some have a hole, that can let you hook the frame using your wise creative mind 😉 )
Thats not made or sold anymore as Hyosung started changing their tanks around 2005 to use *in tank fuel tap*
So why not ditch it. And use an **Inline 8mm Fuel Tap** that has the ON/OFF switch that goes between the tank line and fuel filter line. They call it “fuel cock switch” in US tbh. Unsure of the brand we used last time on a customer bike but make sure its japanese made if Amazon still has em.
That way it is still possible to just reach for it and switch off the fuel when bike is no longer running.
That looks good, i won’t lie the Metal used in Korea could be improved! – At least the chassis is good part of it.
I thought maybe Hyosung did not invest too much in a “titanium” pulley, if people will replace belts and pulleys anyway like we do with chains. Out of the Hyosung range , 125 / 250 / 650 models , the GV650/St7 are the only ones with belts and pulleys.
I wonder if there is a place in ukraine that makes stronger belts for you ? – I am not very familar with that country as i do not have many customers from there to talk to or even have a supply chain network in ukraine.
Anyone who does aftermarket exhausts on this one? Jodo’s seems to be too small and will get burned eventually. LeoVinci is no longer in stock. And the guys that have them in UK are charging a ridiculous $1.1k for them on eBay.
You could ask for a quote locally where you live for a guy that does custom cruiser exhaust and he could adapt something for the GV ?
1 – Is everyone facing the back tire’s protector wearing off more on one side rather than on both sides at the same time?
You would be correct to say that the heavier side of the bike , means it is also easier to lean to it around the turns / bendy roads
So check that the wheel is also “100% straight” , as it if is like this /…../ instead of |…..| , it could also cause more wear on the belts too.2 – I’ve made a lot of upgrades to my GV in different ways and have a couple of ideas. What I’m planning to add is an oil radiator (yes, you heard it right). Now I’m gathering the info about the motor itself and can’t find what’s the hole under “????” mark. Can someone help? At least who had an experience of tearing this motor down? Cause I never got that far.
I believe that is just for the oil to circulate back in to the engine since the plug is there to stop oil shooting out (until there is gauge to check circulating oil pressure.)
3 – What do you do with the stock rear and front pulleys? Riding on a stock? Or got some upgrades too? Cause I’ve got an ST7 front pulley on my 2007 GV (no longer sold anywhere in the world, unless from hands). And the neck of it is twice as big as the 2007’s one. My rear pulley is now being modified with a hardened metal (planning to use a duraluminium plate instead of weak OEM silumin). Will share the results later. Whoever is riding a bike (GV650) and if it’s older than 2013, keep in mind, TIGHT your front pulley nut every season (at least twice to 3 times with 140 torque) Otherwise here’s the result and it’s not the worst one, even.
Have you considered switching to X-Ring chain kits ? – I have been thinbking of doing it on the shop, as some of my GV customers seem to prefer chain methods than dealing with pulleys and belts all the time …. but alas, the belts are smoooooooooth! (& more classic)
Welcome, and you should keep her. Don’t change the design , it looks really good with those saddle bags. I am digging the silver/black 2-tone effect on certain places of the bike 🙂
Everyone (who has never tried a Hyosung) thinks it’s chinese , but they forget Hyosung has a long history with Suzuki lol.
I bougt 2 new one from aliexpress. Waiting for them.
As long as it is a genuine Hyosung part, then it should be OK, as we tend to avoid chinese parts for a reason.
Good luck!
I bougt 2 new one from aliexpress. Waiting for them.
As long as it is a genuine Hyosung part, then it should be OK, as we tend to avoid chinese parts for a reason.
Good luck!
Have you thought about taking out the entire clutch assembly out (plates and discs) to check for cracks , distortions/warping , heat glazed springs that have weakened (eg. OEM says example 50mm free standing spring, the old spring now says 30mm free standing, so it is something to think about ?
Also take out the “push rod” that’s in the middle of the clutch basket (it just slides out) and check its not bent or warped ?
Could be for the horn or front coil = Honestly i’ve dug through diagrams i kept , Hyosung never sells that particular part for a 125 anyways, so it must be part of the harness as i can confirm 2x other looms i have of 2007 bikes have it too. I will call it a “mystery part” lol
