♠️ M77
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Also in any case
All Carb Model GVs use one pump. And follow this topic exactly to the letter as this is how Hyosung does it too.
Hi you may be able to help me I have a hyosung gv125 aquila 2009 carb I found the petrol pump on the left side of the bike near the battery but there seems to be a petrol pump on right side near the front air filter I don’t know if it is fuel pump or not could you help Thanks JOHN.
Can you post a picture of it please? I think i mentioned this on your own topic.
In any case we have to see whats going on with the bike & what the last owners were trying to do.
The bike I have is a hyosung gv125 aquila 2009
Does this tutorial i made help? See the link below and let us know
How to change / upgrade fuel lines & fuel filter on CARBY GV125 & GV250 Diagram
Hey.
It doesnt say what bike you own in your profile.
Can you also post pictures of your situation? It helps a lot
Regards
Hyosung uses “in-house” paint for their fairings and engines.
You could take the engine out and strip the old paint off , then apply Satin Black (the colour used on newer model engines). Just make sure it is “VHT” grade.
Fairings = A bodyshop can do a close match for you when bring the bike to him. Generally hyosung’s gloss black panels are just Gloss Paint = Very common paint.
White = Hyosung’s inhouse Paint because it has white & silver sparkles inside the paint lol. Maybe try to find a Korean car that’s got the same paint as you where you live ?
Got the extended clip 🙂 , i will await your report on the plugs and any pictures – You may also check your coils again as you said.
Let us know if the situation improved (don’t go far, just warm up, go down the street and return back, let it idle for 5 mins before turning off)
Regards
Did any mods happen to it ?
Has it ever been apart for mechanics to access the valves ? (Clearances job)
How old is she and when was the last time the air filter was replaced?
Do you use E5 or E10 ? which Station?
Can you see what “spark plugs” it is using and how old ? (eg. NGK CZ4-S , 9,000 miles old plugs)
When it is running , can you see any “sparks” coming out of the HT Caps or Coils themselves (this is very important) – As it may mean you will need to replace the caps but , let’s answer everything here first before i draw conclusions
Try to answer each question above , so i can drill down to a possible fix for you
Also Jim is right to ask those questions too ^ – Wet, rainy season, you want to check for foreign weather invasions , road debris invading intakes or leaks to the bike, tank cap is not fully secure (water or debris eventually clogs the pump and injectors) as per Jim’s questions ^
I asked a lot , so take your time! – She is still alive, its a good thing, i wouldn’t try her out far places or anything she sounds a bit moody
I’ve reuploaded the video to youtube (no one can find it there) , so its just visible for this forum – it’s just incase Android users can’t see it for whatever reason lol.
I’ll program a way to “auto play” Apple files uploaded directly to this site , it was a challenge making this site work for Safari computers already haha, but i digress. if it was MP4 it would auto convert and play to anyone.
Good luck fella & report back!
Hey,
You could snatch this up as a backup!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256233552285Send me a PM to access the seat another as we talking security matters – Make the subject “Key Access” , i will respond , once the seat situation is resolved , i will close the PM chat and come back here.
Otherwise , try these:
– Spray WD40 with a straw inside the key hole – It is flameable , so please be wise not to let it spray to the engine or electronics. Definitely do not spray the “Ignition Key”– To keep the “Ignition Key” and “Fuel Cap” lubed , spray a little aerosol can with a straw of this product called “ACF50” , this only – Ignore everything else on the market.
– After the WD40 is inside the keylock for the seat for maybe 1 day , then use a “leaf blower” or “hair drier ON COLD setting” to blow off any debris inside the hole
- Then try the key ? – Don’t twist to hard, as the key can snap away & rest will be swallowed inside (if it is your only key)
- You might want to go to a local smith and get it duplicated (I will tell you what key it is based on what we discusss in private) incase you want to access the seat another way in private ofcourse. I wouldn’t want to expose you or anything on security matters.
if a part was not possible to get but do not mind an extra wait for a UK plane to hit the US, be sure to watch our ebay channel @evocrest or just send an email via this site contact page (since ebay doesn’t allow links in their platform)
I think the 250 isn’t too bad , if you like you can get the 650 version aswell which is also just as comfortable. Like you say , health comes first , so get yourself well 🙂
Welcome to the club , hope you keep her for a while , they are fantastic to ride on.
The issues you mentioned can be resolved but ofcourse , you know what you are doing but i would say head over to “tutorials” section for topics regarding how to remove/refit airbox s the rubber intakes don’t split (ultra rare parts) and how to re-do the fuel lines too.
You made the right choice ditching the EV for the screaming ICE vehicle , good on you 👍
Do you have access to an air compressor ?
You can close the “bleed nipple” , so no air leaks out , and blow inside the “banjo bolt hole” , this is how we do it over here for stubbon pistons that have rusted.
That would be hard as the battery tray and plastic black piece under the bike only expects enough room to allow the same style mono shock you have.
If you want a race shock that fits a Hyosung directly , try these UK guys (they made them also stronger springs for 650 front forks too)
They are called HAGON SUSPENSION UK
Expensive but race grade!
Yes the 650 rear shock fits Gt250R (Also if you buy an OEM 650cc shock from 2006-2009 , it will be better for the GT250R as it is stronger a little bit than the OEM 250cc shock )
They did make the ignition of the early 250cc models retard a little bit but it was more like emissions control or something but the power was the same for the most part. So Hyosung knows their engines can rev to 13k even the 650 can go beyond 12k but the engine will let the rider know it won’t like it and no more power is made after 11k max usually depending on CC of the bike. So the electronics did not matter too much on a 125cc , it was limited by its engine , other restrictions were for EU laws like emissions (leaner jets , snorkel intake for noise and minor restriction , exhaust is more restrictive on 125cc pipes than 250 but using OEM pipes and a full size legal can like “Lextek OP1” here in UK is legal and makes nice noise but needs carbs to be upjetted)
CDI isn’t restricted. It does not need to be on a carb model
Does the Hyosung GT125R ’10 have a rev limiter? I’ve revved it to 13k and got scared. 😐
10,000 rpm is more than enough as there is no power after 11k rpm.
Valves Start floating & crank gets more rapid wear if bike is always at 11k + rpm , so to keep her healthy 10k max is good.
We rarely need to go beyond 10k , even people on 650s here in UK.
A vtwin makes peak power lower revs but Gt125 will peak at 10k.but yes there No rev limiter.
To be fair, this is kind of my nice weather ride, and it is kept in the garage. I have only washed it a few times so far! It is the same 0 to 2 degrees C here also, and today it is pouring rain.
Ha , 2-3 more months we are all in Spring 😬 – I would have thought with the USA winter is usually confined to Michigan , NJ
San Francisco & Texas is minimum 12c all year long (i could be wrong as i never lived in US) , correct me on that one. As i know family do live in the upper north of US near NY , i can defo tell it gets icy like EnglandDo a voltage test next when the bike is running , and report what each single yellow wire says from my first reply above ^
Eg. Running @5K revs
1. … V AC
2. … V AC
3. … V ACOvernight Ice Cold Pulse sensor = ohms
Pulse Sensor Hot = ohmsHave you taken a look at the “GV125 | GV250 tutorial below ?
