♠️ M77
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2002 yamaha yz250f, I understand the weight difference but still the hyosung in so slow
The same GV250 engine used in New Zealand GTR bikes for Hyosung racing they can push 95mph when tuned right.
The torque can be forgiven due to Yamaha being lighter in fairness but really all depends how well the GV250 was looked after ? And if the engine needs an overhaul if its been too old of neglect
1 tooth down on the front sprocket helps but you lose about 10mph of whatever top speed it has on now. Id focus on the engine health first 🙂
Is there someone locally who can copy your current shifter and add an extra thick steel bar so that you have basically an S-shifter
Then add a rubber toe peg on the other end for the heel.
I believe Korea Hyosung sold them as accessory a long time ago before being discontinued. So ive seen Brazilians basically weld things up by hand when i trawled through their instagram pictures at one point.
It doesnt seem too complicated for a good cnc/fabricator guy locally to do it.
Most online *so called* spares websites tend to be scammy as they have bad reviews sadly. I could order one for you from real Hyosung UK that is MotoGB but they stopped also (as the factory has moved on now to the newer injection GV125-S models)
Sorry for the mixed reply
Looking better now 🙂
Are you putting a “Belly Pan” next ?
Send us an email for sales enquiries you would like me to do 🙂
https://hyoriders.club/contact/embed/#?secret=1Jj06COV6m#?secret=dXZ8vUrkh7 Better look after them intake pipes , getting rare as hell!!!!
hi guys. Thankyou for the info so far it has been more than helpful.. I managed to sort my master cylinder rear out myself works great now.. I have an intake manifold that the metal plate has come away from so does anybody know what i could use to bond them back together please?
Have a look at old youtube videos of people trying to restore manifolds for 1980s-1990s big carby bikes (some bikes have 4 cylinders that take 4 carbs , you will learn the tricks they use to preserve the intake pipes)
(Get a spare inlet manifold before doing this)
Like these ones we have (I did not bother restoring them as i was too busy fixing customer bikes at the time, and it’s time consuming for me when i had more urgent matters in the past, so just threw them on ebay for anyone willing to save them) (not made anymore by Korea)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256272056786
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255939516578
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255824466773I will eventually find a way crazy way to merge an intake pipe from another bike (ie. honda or whatever) and retroifit it on a hyosung because i need to start working with my cnc guy to make metal ones that look nothing like the originals.
Looks like this original thread you started (connecting fuel) seems resolved , you can start a new topic if you have a separate issue. This one will get archived for future readers 😉
You got this!
What paint is that and how many coats so far ? and any “Clear Coat” applied to it too ? – I think you have learned that Hyosung uses a lot of paint for the tanks especially the red colour lol.
Hey, Glad you joined us!
Hope to see some great pictures on your future “project journal” topic of it , which brings me to ask …… what are your future plans for it ?
Other than staying married to it 😉
Welcome!
Hey welcome and Happy Easter!
Hmmm, i read all you have said, how about look for the noise source (make sure your ears are closest to the source of ticking or using the ear and screwdriver trick, that will highlight the closest area of the noise.
Also consider these ?
- Crank Shaft Bearing
- Starter Motor Sprag clutch (behind the flywheel there will be 3x balls)
- Flywheel Sprocket Needle Bearings (as thet do spin on the shaft continously)
- Any play on the Piston Rod (hints by the piston itself showing skirting marks ?)
- Piston ROD bearing (on the crank shaft)?
Just throwing that out there and keep us posted!
Unless you make it yourself with some fibreglassing modding, there is a UK company that makes the rear hump similar to your picture below:
https://skidmarx.co.uk/all-products/hyosung-gtgtr-125250650-seat-cowlNot sure if they ship to you but you can always ask 🙂
I believe it was done a few times in the past and it caused more issues than it was worth doing.
Hyosung tried to use the Mikuni Electric Pump (not made anymore) on the 1998-2001 super early versions of the GV125/GV250The vacuum pumps used on the 125s flow at 80 litres per hour (80 litres), thats why it is the same pump used on the GV650 carb models. It won’t cause any bottlenecks to your bike unless the old pump has gone clogged up (you can open it gentlely, and check inside) , they rarely fail in fairness unless ex-keepers neglected the bike.
Oh yes that’s the holes in your pictures where the rubber bungs should be going in to 🙂
That bulb is an MOT fail 100%
Take a picture of where it came out of so we can see the housing area
I did not know it was that rare in Costa Rica , does your place have more or less hyosung dealers ? Because Hyosung is still making bikes since they have updated their GV series since 2020
No word yet on new GT versions lol, but they tend to focus on the GV first before the GT gets another update.
Will be following your projects, keep us posted!
Have they posted it ? Or got a response from them?
Sorry to tell you, online even various Hyosung Facebook groups discourage people using such dodgy sites.
Send me a sales email below if things don’t happen from that site. Things might be a little slow as we head in to Easter Bank Holidays also!
Also did you ring Startright Motorcycles ? If they physically still have it, they will post as asap as you want it.
Honestly Marcel, if coming to Yorkshire means my bike gets looked over by someone who’s familiar with these machines, I’d be more than willing to make the journey as your knowledge is invaluable. Rj
Don’t stress, Enjoy the Easter fella. I think we will get somewhere , but please tell him NOT to mess with the fuel mixtures and if the bungs go missing you will have absolute hell trying to retune the carbs
Put these in your basket!if he needs gaskets for the floats (without extra bits, let us know, we might have some)
No need to ride up here, it’s better to send it on transport or we will come and collect it. If push comes to shove. if it is your means of transport and can’t bear the thought of leaving her with us for a while , then i pray the local man looks after it properly and doesn’t cock things up (or he pays!)
Ring startright Motorcycles Leeds , they are one of our parts partners. I am very sure , last time i went to buy a few bikes from them for my shop, they had a cdi laying around 100% for the 650. You will need to confirm a few details with them though as there is more than one that the 650 uses. Tell them marcel sent you
Keep us posted. If not, send me an email and i will try my other traders to see if i can order one from them with your bike details or even the printed numbers on the cdi or harness of your bike for the right unit.
Send us an email for sales enquiries you would like me to do 🙂
Better look after them intake pipes , getting rare as hell!!!!
If you have a spare 2hours, head to halfords => Get “Contact Cleaner” and ACF50
1. Remove the switch gear apart slowly.
2. Spray contact cleaner on the contacts inside that control the indicators.
3. Wait to dry.
4. Apply ACF50 a little dolop in the same place
5. Close the switch gear and try again ?
If not , open the head light unit and see if you find wires for the indicators there , as hyosung hides front switch wires and indicator wires inside the headlight casing (sometimes!)
Also , open then right indicator cover lense and slowly push down, twist the bulb to pop it out, then clean and ACF50 the contacts the bulb sits on.
Hopefully these small tasks , might get us somewhere before having to tear down the bike fully.
You got this!
Try a fresh set of CR8E plugs , i don’t think Hyosung’s like the “K” code at the end of the plug, so it could just mean wrong plugs.
Try that and update us with a new topic with a bit more history of the bike (yes you can repeat the fixes you did in the past, so it might save us repeating old suggestions tha you tried already)
Do a compression test on full throttle , both plugs out , and tell us the PSI readings on a new topic. (Do this after the bike has warmed up)
Hey,
Midlands to Yorkshire is a bit of trek for you to come isn’t it ? 😉
The upgrades you said are recommended yes. I would add my 2pence below to help you:
- Get a multi meter -> Disconnect Fuel Sensor – > Put the meter in to max 300 or 500 ohms level (five hundred) and tell us the reading you get and i will confim if the sensor is dodgy or not. Also tell us if the tank is half full or very full
- Go to halfords -> “ONLY” , i mean ONLY get this product and use it forever (Hyosung’s do not like redex)
https://www.wynns.uk.com/product/formula-gold-fuel-system-treatment/ Usually we use a full bottle on a full tank , just to make the cleaning process a bit more agressive , ride until the fuel gets low.
Allow the bottle to collect muck, dirt , etc and it will burn away at the exhaust.This is like a “temporary” soft clean of the carbs too.Get ACF50 and PUTOLINE RACE GREASE on amazon = Make sure “anything outside the engine” that moves and gets attacked by crap being thrown by the wet tyres , grease it.
ACF50 is for the entire bike with a cloth , wipe everywhere metallic except brake discs to leave a nice layer of ACF50 anti rust treatment.
See the plugs under the oil cooler ? _ Yes , drop the oil cooler from the frame, leave pipes connected and add a little drop of ACF50 inside EVERY plug there)
Then hide the plugs with this below (it is called SUZUKI HARNESS BOOT)
You harness will thank you
ACF50 again, find any connector on the bike that’s exposed to the weather and put a little drop of acf50 inside there.
Buy another Suzuki Harness Boot to hide the stator plugs near the shock
Buy another Suzuki Harness boot to hide the indicator wires behind the rear pillion seat.Ring FOWLERS UK BRISTOL (Genuine Suzuki Dealer, ask for exactly what i said as its used in various suzuki. They call it “Harness Boot”)
DO NOT USE WD40! – It will instantly go on fire lol. Only ACF50 should be allowed on the electric plugs/terminals.
- Regulator = 100% got to go.
- Stator = Test your old one first both in voltage , and also OHMS when it has been overnight cold. = before it fries the next regulator. At this rate you have been running on the battery itself , the regulator should be absolute minimum of 13.5V as per hyosung rules but ideally 14V to 15v max up to 5,o00 revs.
- Test your coils = If they are retrograding or acting wishy washy , it will eat your spark plugs and will explain the boggy behaviours while running.
NGK Caps yes good investment, they rarely ever fail tbh.
If you want to be fancy , go to amazon and get 7mm thick MAGNECOR HT WIRES too (that will make a nice upgrade between a beefier coil & ngk cap)
Keep us posted , and please let me know if missed something too, and ill edit anything i said or reply with new information.
