♠️ M77
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The floats and the needle seats assembly controls the bike from idling all the way to 5th gear , sometimes 5th gear is so thirsty if the float doesn’t rise or lower properly the main jets feel like they can’t reach the fuel as it drains by engine consumption
or check fuel puimp and the fuel tap , sometimes the fuel tap in the tank is the one holding up the bike under full load (bike is moving on the road)
Regards
If it fits why not! The GVs tend to have smaller trays to hold batteries than GT bikes.
If the floats give you drama , go back to factory float, factory float seat well , factory float needle. Start there.
If using new floats , try with their needle seats that came with the gasket kit.
This is because there could be a slight variance of 1mm height difference , the carb needle may have a soft bounce as OEM floats a tad little smaller and more curved , the aftermarket floats would be a little more “boxy shape” with their needles from gasket kit having stronger spring (maybe 2%)
Also the float seats have a HOLE size relative to the needle it is using.
Ie. OEM float seat would say 1.0 , the carb rebuild kit version would probably say 1.5 – Hole size might allow more fuel in easier as long as it is used with it’s supplied needle (the needle may be a little wider to cover the hole) like 0.5mm wider (very marginal!)
Just my thoughts at 10am , so sorry for any grammatical errors , keep us posted!
Hmmm,
– If you take the carbs off 1 more time => Check the float is 7mm or (7.5 absolute max) and lift it up , if you lift up the float it should rise from 7mm to around 14-17mm ish
- Set the carb mixture screws to zero (full stop clockwise) then then then anti clockwise 2.5 times on each carb. Leave it there forever.
- Check the slide needles and follow this tutorial (click here)
Re-assemble parts together (make sure carb is firmly on the airbox first!) , then drop the whole thing down to the rubber intake pipes , make sure they don’t try to squash them down, this avoid the rubber intakes from splitting up as they are truly rare parts these days.
The carb marrying the airbox first guarantees there should be no leaks at the top.
when it is running , carefully in the open area (ventilated spaces) spray carb cleaner on the intake rubber pipes to see if you have any air leaks that will affect the overall running of the bike.
Can you show us a picture ? (we probably call them in a different name in UK) , so i can make my response accurate for you.
You could always mofidy the stock cannon, to be half the size , and rivet the end tip again, this allows a chance to remove some of the “silencing” parts inside or drill a bigger bore at the end tip so it is a little more freeflowing and louder
Creative work here, but just a thought!
See the right mirror ? It has a NUT on its stem , twist the nut so that it screws upwards , so that more of the mirror’s thread is exposed.
Try that ?You can put a whole R6 front end fork as the older r6 should have 51mm tubes but….the issue is that the r6 wheel won’t be compatible with the Hyosung speedo drive, so you may have to use the GT rim and some possible alterations to the spaces to make sure everything aligns for the calipers not to grind the discs. Also you will end up using a whole R6 brake system from master cylinder down to the calipers themselves as Hyosung calipers won’t fit correctly on R6 forks unless you modify mounts!
It is possible you may have to replace the whole “Top Nut” section of the fork if keeping the 650 0ne (not unless you strip the fork and see a part broken inside (one way to find out!)
Hey!
I see the why you want the rack to stay there , looks nice as a solo seat mod too!I think you want to keep the metal plate that locks the main rider seat — I see the metal rear rack is a bit too wide to catch the 2 main bolts but it’s okay….
Get 6x m6 penny washers. 3x per side. And get 2 m6 bolts not too long and 2 m6 nuts for the under side of the plastic.
The 2x washers act as spacers under the rack , drill a hole thru the metal rack, then screw a bolt with a penny washer on top.
Now you have 4 bolts across holding it down.
To hide the area , hmmm , how about get a thick strip of leather or similar that’s weather resistant like the seat. Cut around it and glue it down ?
I don’t have a spare seat for your upholstorer to remodel it but , they can always remodle your seat to have a bit more extension to the back (assuming the pillion seat won’t return anytime soon!)
@Amit – No picture , attach so we see what you mean.
Hey,
If the master cylinder is lower than the clutch perch sort of like —___ staggered fashion being shown by your mirrors.
Look on amazon for something like “m10 mirror” extender (it’s a hollow nut that screws in between the mirror and the master cylinderYou may need to use 1x m10 washer on the clutch side to even things out.
Not something that’s around “plug & play” style , it’s something like a custom job where it involves getting something like “Domino Quck Action” throttle” and you have to fabricate your own custom throttle cable as obviously the oem throttle cable only is made specifically for the OEM throttle tube and clips itself under the kill switch block.
15T front is OK , just less acceleration but if you do long rides rather than short city springs, you may get better MPG – Sprocket code is JT 1554
Does this clutch perch suit you , it’s ours and will fit yours no problem ,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256243615477Just message us to include the screw below
This perch on ebay doesn’t have a clutch switch, you have a model that is pre-efi with the classic twin gauges , so i assume it doesn’t have it ?
I would mention other hyosung sites but they are scam pages , as too many people have complained (the ones with white & blue backgrounds are all Shopify clones of the same person who owns it)
Open the Dashboard unit, see if you can “gently” move the needle up and see if it goes down by itself , otherwise look for any burn marks or water marks that may have affected its circuitry
If you’re brave enough, you could replace the stepper motor (the little motor that sweeps the RPM Needle up & down)
Update us with what you do first before we go the route of replacing the stepper motor, you may end needing soldering skills too.
Tachometer(Tach) isn’t working. Thanks!
Can you confirm the actual LCD glass is lit up and you can see what road speed you are doing ? I will address the RPM (Tacho) based on your next reply
Usually Tachometer can sometimes be refered as the entire dashboard unit (whole thing is dead)
Can you tell us what part of the speedo isn’t working ?
– Rev counter?
– MPH (speed counting) LCD glass
– The Icons at the top (ie. Turn Signals, FI , Neutral, High Beam)Glad to hear the bike is alive! – Sorry for your troubles in the world, i hope there is a little bit of peace knowing you can take a much needed road trip with her and get away from it a little bit , and ofcourse a full service on the bike is always a good idea.
Ride safe!
what is your current tooth count ? and is it a real 520 sprocket or 525 ? – Normally do 525/530 for 650s only.
keep the rear the same = increase the front.
You could get the GT650 engine (rare in UK as 650’s rarely get split up for parts now , unless you find a US ebay seller to ship it over to you) which has the factory 6 speed gearbox or look to ask the US seller to send the 6 speed gearbox
orYou would increase the size of the front sprocket (though it sacrifices acceleration a little bit) , i “assume” you don’t need to ride very “spirited” around all the time since the further most north UK doesn’t have much motorways (highways that have you sitting at 70mph all day long) , most country roads are good around 60mph anyways
Hyosung did make the SV motor yes but the internals aren’t all that interchangeable as internals got moved around for Suzuki only (whereas Hyosung for example has oil filter inside the motor than the real SV does) , looks can be decieving.
Cagiva Mito 650 is all Hyosung in an italian frame but i can’t remember if it’s 6 speed.
