♠️ M77
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Light Green = RIght Turn Signal Solid Black = left turn signal , Yellow with Black Stripe (possibly RPM or Fuel Level, confirm your fuel sensor is same wire colour first!) , black with white stripe = Ground / Negative 12-V , Orange = Live power to dash and lights , Brown = Temp Sensor (650cc only) , Solid Yellow = Possibly lights (High Beam switch is activated by you or FLASH BUTTON) , Blue = Unsure yet , need to read again It has been a long time since i fixed wiring plugs under the dashboard, i usually fix the “Blue Side” due to water rust etc or previous owner neglects I will try to find an old cable for the all black dash and send photo (maybe Sunday or next week)
Is it the same for gt650r carbureted?
As far as i can remember but 650cc has extra wire for temperature sensor , so it is usually brown but use my pictures above to confirm cable looks the same because it is the same dashboard harness used from 125cc GT125R , Gt250R and 650r = 2005 to 2008 carb models.
using the Kawasaki clipons over the steering yoke is a very smart move , i am usually skeptical about China parts on critical parts of the bike including steering, so let us know how they handle , maybe i might get OEM kawasaki versions. As you can tell even the Korea clip ons break easy (which is a good thing sometimes as the fairings or crash bobbins will take most of the damage from the fall)
Are you going to fit lower fairings back in and fit R&G Crash Protectors on her ? – It looks very pretty in white!
Thanks for that very detailed response it will come in very handy next question is do you sell the replacement at all ? Iv seen a couple on flea bay but they have a metal end not a white pin plug ?
Send me an email, and i will see if we can hunt a new one for you for the GV as it is longer cabled (GTR bikes have a shorter travel but still fit awkwardly as not to pull the cable!)
If not, I will hunt a used one for you
Maybe not totally new, I was riding as a kid on 50cc, it was 23 years ago 😅 But first timer as a owner 😁 I find my Hyo quite well, I was so scared my first roundcross 🙈 but I handle IT quite well 😀 I know it’s the most or almost the heviest bike in 125ccs and it’s Perfect for my weight 70kg 😀 it’s so stable on the road, even due the weight the acceleration it’s very surprising 😀
180 kgs with a full tank, she is a heavy girl indeed! 🤯 but like you said, you feel “planted down” on the light, where other 125 bikes might be “too light feeling” on fast roads.
Glad you are enjoying it , make sure to give it a good service and go through everything around the bike before going on very long trips! – You can’t trust anything the previous owner says, so it is better to reset as a new one (new tyres , new brakes, new chain, new oil filter, new air filter, new motul 7100 oil recommended, etc, etc)
Anyway, @godoie here is some pictures as promised , and i changed this topic title a little bit to make it easier to find for others in future.
This is my spare cable i found in workshop.
THIS IMAGE BELOW IS FOR 3 WIRES FOR SPEED DIGITAL SENSOR!!! (The plug was cut!)
BELOW IS JUST FOR THE HEADLIGHTS (it goes to the mini harness that is on your headlight box!) (IF YOU HAVE A GTR) , it is different process if you have a GT250 Naked , GT250 Naked will have a BIGGER Plug that goes straight to the headlkight bulb!
My cable is from GTR
This is the other end , that will go to the GTR harness (if you have GT Naked Harness, then you can ignore this image!)
Hope all this information helps!
@Krishna – You could make a new topic (click here) , as your issue seems unrelated to @godoie ‘s topic here so i will have to answer your topic on a separate topic and try to include as much information as you including what caused it to die in the first place. Regards
New to bikes ? And chose Hyosung as your first bike ? = GOOD CHOICE! – I think you will learn a LOT!
Welcome to the dark side hahaha 🙂
How are you finding the experience riding the Hyosung ? It is a 125cc but it is physically bigger than most 125ccs like Yamaha YZFR125 , so it feels like you have a GS500 Suzki with nice plastics and 125cc motor!
Ahhhh, you need to do the following
- Lift the tank, and put it away safely (mind the fuel level sensor cable!)
- Then look at the LEFT SIDE of the airbox , you will see a 3 pin plug that is GREEN, ORANGE, BLACK (as my memory recalls)
Disconnect it.
Then go find Allen Key (6mm) , and Allen Key BIG (12mm)
Remove the front wheel.
- Now get grease (Putoline Race Grease is very recommended or similar product that beats it) =>? Grease the sensor cause water , dirt, and spin stress will dry out out and go dead!
- Fit your new sensor on to the wheel (watch the METAL HOOKS) that are supposed to go on the wheel indents (you will see it with your own eyes what I mean)
- Make sure the plastic tab on the speed sensor is FACING REAR WHEEL (GOING TO THE BACK—->)
Or in otherwords look at the “GAP TAB” that looks like this ||___|| , make sure that part is facing 3pm direction towards the backwheel.
This tab is to make sure it hits the “TAB” that is on your fork leg (You must look for the tab on your fork leg to understand what i am saying)
You will see why , the TAB on the fork leg is to stop the speed sensor from spinning forward as the wheel rotates or it may pull cable and it will be a very very very bad day if the cable entangles itself on to the wheel while riding
I can’t stress it.
- Next up , again make sure everything is aligned properly on the wheel and fit the wheel back inside.
- Double check #3 to #5 again!!!!! ^^^^^
- Guide the cable with zip tie nicely up to the brake hose until it ends up inside the frame where the airbox is
- Connect the sensor
- Turn Key on.
- Have a friend hold the bike safely and rise front wheel up.
- spin it hard , spin , spin, spin = He will tell you if its now saying 5mph etc…. (Then the sensor is working)
- Spin again, check everything is safe , don’t overtighten things but just make it safe enough to ride. Use mechanic to verify or your own wisdom if you already did this before on past bikes.
- tuck the cables under theairbox nicely so the rain weather doesn’t try to rot them. Use contact cleaner and also ACF50 to stop future rust inside every single plug you can find
DO NOT USE WD40! – It will go on fire! — Just acf50 is allowed to protect every plug and naked wire you see in the bike even your coils, hell hide your brake disc and dress her up in ACF50 all over even the exhaust , engine , etc …. It will burn off a sweet smell and it has a shiny layer of protection (for a little while!)
Main key is making your sure your electric plugs do not rot this coming winter!
Close your bike up and ride safe.
Here is one more picture found for vacuum and fuel hose diagram , i hope this helps. It is not for a Hyosung but another bike that uses similar Mikuni Carbs and our same Mikuni DF52 series fuel pump. Other parts can be ignored if they do not exist on your bike./
EG. USA Models = They have a strange “Charcoal Canister” (some kind of emissions cleaner) , and our UK Models do not have it but we have simple Mikuni AIS Pumps (that draw air from airbox to the exhaust for EU emissions control etc) , so different continents have different ways of emissions control, so not everything you see in these pictures will apply to your model.
These bikes do not care about these emissions control devices. (Less is better, means less stupid pipes everywhere lol) however, if there is law in your country to have it present, then don’t remove it.
I found an old image of the carb showing the “PORT” where the person’s finger is , i believe (my brain is tired at 8pm as i write this) i think it goes to cannister or it simply overflow to the road (incase bike falls or have accident, the carb will dump fuel out of those pipes you see in RED COLOUR below)
Hello,
I downloaded your images and posted them here for others to see , (future reference) , i changed title , so that people find this topic easier.
Moving on…..Can you please try these diagrams below and see if you have sucess and tell us which picture below was better ?
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Carb model or EFi? ill see if i can order one for you
hey , i wish i did , i will next time
do you have pics of your set up and i will see if you are doing ok
You will need to open your clutch cover, i think your springs may have popped or plates exploded , so do that and take pictures of what you find ?
Regards
Light Green = RIght Turn Signal
Solid Black = left turn signal ,
Yellow with Black Stripe (possibly RPM or Fuel Level, confirm your fuel sensor is same wire colour first!) ,
black with white stripe = Ground / Negative 12-V ,
Orange = Live power to dash and lights ,
Brown = Temp Sensor (650cc only) ,
Solid Yellow = Possibly lights (High Beam switch is activated by you or FLASH BUTTON) ,
Blue = Unsure yet , need to read again
It has been a long time since i fixed wiring plugs under the dashboard, i usually fix the “Blue Side” due to water rust etc or previous owner neglects
I will try to find an old cable for the all black dash and send photo (maybe Sunday or next week)
Hey Steve,
Clutch Switch will cut sparks off anytime if it plays up, I’ve experienced this myself more than once on my GTR bikes , so much so , that even today we have had 2 orders in wales & dorset for clutch switches to be sent for GTR bikes.
It would be wise to replace it and get 2 of them (1 for spare) , if your local dealer can’t help , just email us.
Keep in mind, ST7s have longer bars than GTs and GTR’s , so don’t try to use their switches as it simply will be 50% too short! – Some terminals may change too!
I would not recommend bypassing it, as fake neutrals “can” happen , so you want to guarantee yourself the clutch is squeezed in before starting.
Also it is very important the side stand switch is Bypassed! (the most annoying object on the bike!) , bridge the wires , and tape it very hard so there is no chance of water invasion , lest it rots the wire and you’re back to square one.
Regulator = I pray the regulator is actually doing 13.5 during idle and 14.5v during 5k revs , otherwise , time to upgrade to shingdens! (Like this one) , the stator too.
Carb bikes can get away with a poorly reg / stator for a short while, but EFI bikes are power thirsty (with zillion sensors all over the place with a fuel pump that draws a lot of amps!) , you want to make sure the charge system is future proofed. Less costly than replacing a delicate fried ECU and ST7 ECU’s are too difficult to buy.
They could have twisted the strainer to make it is facing down , good job there!
Keep the old black pump for spares!
Good to see you back on the road, enjoy the mountain passes!
Try to follow my old reply above ^ and report back if you can
