♠️ M77
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Based on your location, you just as north as us! Welcome!
Okay, the brake switch may be on the banjo hose itself that’s coming out of the brake hose, if it has gone burst, it can be changed.
Commonly as we know now, the rear brakes can loose power if air manages to get in to the system, so you may simply have air in the brakes. There is a CBS cylinder that goes between front and rear brake (think of it as a half-ABS system)
It says it wont fit the 650 model on your ad on ebay
It was a precaution as some 650 models have different plugs now after later years to avoid confusing less educated people on ebay. But if my plugs match yours, it will fit fine.
Hey Kia,
Yes you can use any rear master from any GT bike or GV bike as it is the same point – but different hose length, so keep in mind!
Shame there is no rebuild kits pre-made to save yours but , it sounds silly, try to replace the brake hose & the washers for banjos , make sure the holes for the banjo bolts are meticulously clean.
When i bleed brakes on client bikes, sometimes they still leak air because the washers need changing (again!) due to micro particles on the surfaces where washers sit on and the bolt needs to be tight (but not too tight!)
Have you checked the headlight relay unit ? (the relay is near the battery = older model , or if your bike is a newer model , it will be on the LEFT pillion cover inside.)
Also check the left switch gear inside for corroded contacts and also the yellow plug of the switch gear going in to the harness
See last post here too, C12 error was discovered by another 650 member
Hyosung uses different plugs for their reg recs, go on ebay and try these i am very sure one of them will charge fine. Cheap test parts , you get 3 anyways to tide you over for a long while.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256113919119Shop has upgrade stators and upgrade regs with a lifetime warranty of the reg, think about that in the future
Now C12 code , yes there is a topic on this forum about “alternative starter motors” to use to crank the bike up.
Follow service manual with a meter when it asks
– how many ohms stator
– how many ohms spaking coils
– how many ohms injectorsThe ECU will flag up if it doesn’t like the resistance going to them.
(more resistance in wires usually means , it will burn when she is hot , eventually, more like a slow kill)
Stock is very heavy on its own but it gives the best power and LeoVince only. Cutting and using slash-cuts or whatever mixture out there will really slow the bike down, i don’t know why but i’ve tried many and many cans on customer GV’s , the engines respond to either LeoVince or Hyosung’s stock cans only very well.
Exhaust company in UK called Black Widow only makes pipes for the GT bikes including silencers. No news on GV ones sorry.
IF you spend enough money getting someone to copy the pipes in to stainless or chrome plated and fine tuning the size of the cannons with baffles so the bike doesn’t experience a dramatic power lose ===> you may as well get LeoVince or just shorten the stock muffler by about 8cm max shorter length (fabricator should do this for you)
SV650 will be ok , must be 1999 only (because after that they changed suzuki coils to twin spark which does not work on Hyosung)
Between 1998-1999 Mitsubishi made coils identical for GT650 and SV650 (Same coil literally!)
Obviously after 2010 (i believe) Hyosung changed to Hankuk coils , then 2013+ to DELPHi coils to this day.
We don’t know if the last keeper changed the coils or not since you have that error, so get a picture up and they do vary in size & ohms resistance!
The bike has no standard exhausts at all ? I might have a stock system up for sale soon on ebay , if the bike has no exhaust whatsoever.
LeoVince is good! but very pricy!yes , biggest jet on the rear. PLEASE, make sure your mechanic goes to “Tutorial” section of this forum to find 2x topics called “Intake Pipe removal” and “Airbox Removal” , the GV intake pipes are very very verrrrry delicate rubber pieces that are near impossible to replace (not made any more!)
If the clutch isn’t slipping , that’s good, but it does loose its “punch” overtime and the gears feel a bit crunchy to shift sometimes , hence service manual is being optimistic to say “inspect it” or “replace whatever part has worn down in there” around 4k mark. This site just replaces the whole clutch and be done with it.
For wheels – Rear one is OK, its a little lighter than the GT ones to be honest and changing the back end means a lot of custom work.
Front wheel – Digital Speedo Sensor on the wheel and Digital LCD dash you have requires that wheel to stay on, 🤐Why not, i can see you tried to blend in the blue colour almost as if i couldn’t tell if thats a metal plate there lol.
You can always tell them what colour code was used.
Share away! Brings traffic back to this site lol.
That looks very flush now mate , good job! – Not bad!
I suppose this could be a DIY topic if someone else wanted to do it lol
Hey,
The CDI is already at full capacity (no restrictions) , do you have any aftermarket exhausts on it , and if so can you post a pic (this matters a lot)I would say if the plugs are all yellow, then that’s good! – You can squeeze a little more by:
– Increasing the main jets from stock to 90 and 92.5 as optimal for top gear
– Do the slide mod (click here for tutorial)Clutch Plates = The service manual says to “Check” (means get the venier calipers out & measure the spring height and plate thickness) for wear as they do go heat fatigued and tired these springs, aswell as friction material of the plates do wear down eventually or the service manual says if “any is out of spec” , rebuild clutch (click here for tutorial)
Chain = Your 520 kit is on the way, so you will find out the hard way how your engine can push it or motor needs attention. You will appreciate the gearing of the 520 will be night & day over the 16 + 52T
16T is too heavy at the front, even for a 428 chain.
Plus , Hyosung slipped up by using cheap plates that warp inside the swingarm if not careful, so click here to compare with the recommended plates that slot inside your swingarm edges and keep the chain stable.
If you’re going to take the wheel off, don’t forget about your cush drive! (see here)
Keep us posted!
Would you be able to get hold of the dealer mode switch or know where i can get one to at all
The pins can be bridged with a paper clip. Usually its the blue line and the one next to it in the same line. Dealer switch is just an On/Off toggle.
Its just continious thudding on the battery but fuel pump is still working i cam hear fuel when i try to fire it so surely its something disabling the injector
I don’t know what you mean the battery is thudding ? Explain more on this thudding…
Usually any of the 650 EFI manuals advise how to get a code , then again if it is blinking , count the blinks and let us know.
That object is the Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) , it runs when the bike fires up , then controls idling and general very low speed throttle behavior. It is called a Stepper Motor.
Remove the part and show us what it is .
Also , remove battery for a few hours to clear the energy left from the harness that might feed the ecu accidently while off.
Then plug in again – Go to the forum , download the service manual for the ECU that matches your bike or year model. There is explanations how to get a fault code. If it won’t start, the ECU throws a code.
If the FI light is blinking = the ECU is throwing a fault code. Count the blinks when it doesn.
CHE comes on when Kill Switch is ON = That is normal. It means the bike won’t start until the red button is pressed down towards you instead of front tyre.
CHE disappears , the Fuel Pump starts priming , if it is cranking with the FI light still on, sometimes it just means your injection system , wires around there or plugs near ECU or ECU issues.
EFi bikes not easy compared to carb bikes, so trying to get a code helps tell you which sensor is stopping the bike from starting.
If something is getting hot simply from cranking = there is a problem there or potential fire hazard.
Next time…
Do this. Key on and off three times within 2 seconds.
Then it will blink. Count the blinks. It is the ECU tell you a fault code.
Eg.
10 blinks(pause)2 blinks(pause)10blinks(pause) 1 blink
Equals 10 – 2 – 10 – 1
Translates to Injector at cylinder #1 for example.
Further instructions are in every service manual i have uploaded on this site for 650s. Example, it will explain how to get injector #1 running.
Somtimes it will also blink
10 8 5 2 10
10 8 5 2 10
Example = Neutral sensor , Clutch Switch (no bypassing) , side stand (bypass yes) OR the rider is NOT holding clutch in before pressing start.
Regards
It’s a 2016 model with the digital fuel gage. Thought this could be the case with compatibility with the electrics 😅
Your particular model requires that exact digital dash , as the older versions will not work with your digital speed sensor too.
GT = Too much headache and their “fuel gauge” will say EMPTY when tank is full and FULL when tank is empty! (GV uses reversed sensors!)
yes sir , delete it all off the bike.
Usually for the “engine side” , we sell these blanks below:
EGR Valve Blanking Plate / AiS Delete Block Off Kit – Various Hyosung Carb Models
Then STEP 2 ===
Go to the airbox –> Make sure the airbox does NOT have open ports , block them. Those ports are what feeds those external emissions canisters on your bike.Step 3 ===
See the “clutch arm” behind the rear engine ? –> There is a thick 10-15mm port , feed a hose there and make sure it goes to the airbox open port of the same diameterThis step 3 pipe is either overflow to airbox (which is what EFI bikes do anyway later on) or you can overflow it to the road (and block the airbox port) like below diagram
If you don’t have Hose #13 , you will find it most Hyosung Engines at your local dealer in your state or ask any major breaker in usa that has a Hyosung and quote the part number 13870H29B00 it is called “Crank Case Breather Pipe” and it has a “SLIT” at the bottom to stop road debris being sucked in to the crank! (very important)
Does your state require you to have emissions controller on the bike , as that is what they are essentially (fake emissions spoofing but sucking fresh air from the airbox in to the exhaust pipes via the engine heads.)
Here in UK, we delete all that junk as it doesn’t benefit the bike whatsoever , we even have a few rare efi bikes that didn’t even have that from factory and some pre-2005 models.
If it is a requirement , let us know
I believe you may have to fork out that much but….
Can we verify a few things first….
– What year is the GV ?
– Did the old clocks have a “Classic Fuel Guage” in the middle or did it have a “DIGITAL LCD” fuel gaugeClassic Dash = Fuel gauge is yellow with a real needle sweeping up. and it uses a manual speedo drive with a cable going straight up to the dashboard from the left side of the front wheel
LCD = Fuel Gauge is like a black & white TV with text , it lights up WHITE , the speedo mph uses an “Electric Speed Sensor”
If in doubt, grab a picture showing us what your old GV dash looked like if possible!
Hyosung might have keeped the same body shape around 2006-2017 but they changed electrics internally, plus GV generally isn’t backwards compatible with GT clocks, they made sure of that without the rider being an electric wizard to re-work it.
