♠️ M77
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Hey Bianca,
Not to worry, if that unit is working, then that’s good.
- Open the rider’s seat and remove the side plastic covers hiding the battery.
- Go behind the rear engine exhaust …. (it has 2 engines, so go to the back facing engine and look at the exhaust pipe area where the clutch cable ends up.
- There is a metal plate that is attached to the frame and the metal plate has 2 hooks on it.
- These 2 hooks are facing the plastic battery try.
Found it ?
- The solenoid has a rubber cover ..,. put it inside the rubber cover like this
- After that, look for the 2 slits on the sides of the rubber cover….. like below:
The space between the plastic battery tray and the metal plate with hooks is very narrow, so i would carefully take your time and slot it in.
Done?
Find a 2-pin plug (on the bike harness) that’s exactly the same as the fashion as the solenoid itself (ie. male connector going to the female slot) and the wire colours “must” be identical.
There is another plug that is for the FUEL TANK sensor (so becareful not to plug the wrong wire!) , if you press start , you might blow up!
Thankfully Hyosung has made sure the FUEL sensor plug has different wire colours to the plug for the STARTING SOLENOID
This next step is connecting it to the battery and starter motor, so excercise caution.
- Remove battery first!
- Red wire from the battery (the thickest part) goes to one side of the solenoid and screw it tight using it’s own nuts at the top of it.
- The Starter Motor itself has 1 single thick strong wire that goes to the opposite side of the starter solenoid.
Double check everything!
Then connect the battery and test when it is safe to do so.
Hope that helps.
2 inches = Hole Size (where exhaust fumes come out of ?) or just the side ways length of it ? I was on about the hole size.
90 & 92.5 is the absolute max and probably the best way.
The bike pulls better with the baffle (find a way to make the “HOLE” of the baffle about the size of a 10p coin)
Hello, I saw your post earlier and responded to it, but you can always update here as ill watch this topic now.
This mod is free and does wonders on the bike!
[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) – Hyosung GV & GT 125/250
Pilots = Size 15 is a good downsize , simply because the factory 17.5 is a bit too big
Mains = Depends what exhaust you have (upload a picture please)
Regards
All good, clutch plates we can sort that for you no problem and plus oil filter!
Everyday bike is a good way of keeping it alive, better used than stood still in a barn to be fair,
I would say make sure you have some good michelin rubbers for them icy days!
Welcome!
We don’t see many of those on the road these days, so good on you for keeping what i could call a “rarity” !
Any plans for her ?Hey,
Get the 650 manual in there that matches your bike , I have uploaded every single one i could get.They explain how to get codes.
Or read flashing FI light sequences.
The shop regs uses better tech inside as Hyosung OEM versions use primitive tech (old diode , badly made shunt types) , the idea of those ones is that the owner literally just swaps & go. No chopping up anything, we discourage messing with the harness too much, it’s a lot of wires & ancillaries attached to it, so the spinal cord (so to speak) of the bike isn’t to be messed with.
The Shingden’s we do for 250 EFi ones are true MOSFET type, it is a requirement as EFi has a LOT ( i mean A LOT of sensors all over the bike) so it is way more thirsty than the carby bike. Hence the carby ones you see , are more than OK for a carby motor , explicitly say “carby” for a reason.
For 650cc , it’s not even a discussion, Shingden for both carby and EFi. if things go bad on an aliexpress reg , it will be voilent if the owner isn’t already on fire. Some just literally “bang” , and connectors get melted like someone put a cigar lighter on them, I have seen it all.
Carby Stator = OEM Black Korea is the best one for carby but not made anymore 🙁 , however the aftermarket variant is more than OK (just as long as owner’s don’t take the piss like adding 100w bulbs instead of 55w! or putting gazilion accessories taxing the charging system even more)
You can fit any motor under 100 hp , the frame can take it, its all going to be a custom job unfortunately as you will essentially buy a donor bike and take everything it has and transplant it in to the 650 frame. Also expect work to be done , either frame bracing , welding , alterations to make the motor fit.
Some people try an easier way buy just getting the SV650 Suzuki and take everything including electronics
Sky is the limit though!
Why swap though ? I am curious as the GT650 motor is better than the SV one by a margin (if tuned well, carby is easier)
335 crank sensor (probably wrong stator)
113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor (likely at fault)
562 battery (recharge it or its too old) (EFI is a hungry machine)
Use the service manuals in this forum for EFI, to help you fix these error codes by testing them as the manual shows you how. or replace said gadgets
Sometimes, the harness needs all plugs disconnected and cleaned out with contact cleaner and dry it 24hrs before fitting parts (as wet liquids & electrics don’t mix!)
ACF50 will be the next bottle to use to stop connector plugs rotting in bad weather
Some regulators have reverse + and – pins and could fry the bike.
The most “Bolt in” option, find an old Kawasaki MULE ATV in your soil, it works straight in.The brands we mentioned ie Poland (WK Moto) and JMP (Japan/Germany) , YS (YellowSquareMoto UK) have been good for our store
All replacement regulators using Hyosung part numbers are all rubbish! I would have more faith in Korea’s regulator than china aftermarket clones even though it’s not wise Korea’s regulators now (still an outsourced part but made in korean soil)
13.5-15V = idling and 5,000 revs
If less than 13.5 = regulator or stator issues
If over 15V , do not ride = explosion or fire hazard imminent.That’s for the regulator
Kawasaki Mule has a LOT of clones , no new ones are made , so find one that is still good and OEM.
no diagrams yet in this forum for EFI but its straight forward, do post pictures that we can clearly identify where goes where (not too closeup)
FI light = turn key on and off 3-5 times quickly , and code will be displayed if its a DELPHI model (otherwise, download the efi manual in this forum)
It should turn off as soon as the bike runs.
If it is on while running = errors in EFI system
Yeah we do those for EFi models (with our mini harness) , otherwise for a carby motor Poland or JMP regulators we use ain’t too bad for plug & play
Carby stators are for carby motors anyway , if you can salvage one locally , why not just make sure its in spec using manuals in the forum (EFI manual has same stator readings as the carby one) , just means don’t use EFI on carby motors that’s all but readings are the same.
Download the EFi manual in the forum , and get an error code from the ECU otherwise if the injectors are faulty they won’t run (and you can’t dry test them, liquids need to be squirting out)
30 dollar one says unbranded , so assume the seller is re-selling from aliexpress. Quality may remain questionable, so i can’t comment on the experience of them. Some 650 owners might do it (& say no issues) , they haven’t been in a serious emergency to test them or they may not admit it publicly, so we’re in the abyss here.
$320 for XRT , is too much and i would not use that site. Send a message to the real US dealer/importer WhyGoStock, as they may have levers made on US soil.
On the Hyosung carb models , there is only 1 fuse box for everything , the size is 15A max. (10A minimum!)
The headlight = uses a 4 pin relay
The turn signals = use a 3 pin relay
Starter Motor = SolenoidYou find these three things near the battery.
We have gaskets in the shop, see link below: (if you need a gasket that isn’t mentioned on the shop, send us an email at the bottom of the website)
https://hyoriders.club/shop/PS. Thanks for your order, piston was sent today.
